Leaves dying in flowering <pic>

[user192021]

I am at day 23 of 12/12 and as you can see, I have some fan leaves turning yellow and dying. I know leaves dying during flowering is normal but this seems a little early. Should I go ahead and pull off the dead/dying leaves? Is this a N deficiency that needs to be corrected? Thanks.

 

[phuque]

https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/162596-plant-problem-chart-most-common.html

should help you

 

[user192021]

Thanks for the link - so does that chart apply during flowering? I thought that it's normal for leaves to die off during flowering?

 

[Where in the hell am I?]

Thanks for the link - so does that chart apply during flowering? I thought that it's normal for leaves to die off during flowering?

YOU ARE FINE!!!!! Those bottom fan leaves SHOULD be dyin off now fer ya! It's the lack of Nitrogen (which the plant doesnt need high levels of any more!)
Ya look good, brah!

 

[Bubba Kushman]

Some strains loose more leaves then others during flower but its normal for the bigger leaves to go first.

 

[user192021]

Thanks guys - is it a huge problem that these leaves are actually closer to the middle-top of the plant, not so much on the bottom?

 

[laserbrn]

Some strains loose more leaves then others during flower but its normal for the bigger leaves to go first.

Why does everyone believe this? Why would it be "okay" for your leaves to be dying off? This is why you add nutes with higher N during week 3 and 4 of flowering. To avoid THIS problem. I have never for the life of me understood why you would think it's okay to have your light grabbing, photosynthesizing fan leaves die off and so many people swear it's just okay.

I'm not saying it's something to be alarmed about, but you have 4-6 weeks left (depending on strain) and it's already going yellow and everyone's going to tell you it's alright.

It's not alright. Keep your leaves green throughout your entire grow. If they start to yellow at week 7 I wouldn't be too concerned, but now you've been taught. Add nutrients with a higher N rating during weeks 3 and 4 next time, then flush then resume normal bloom nutes. This avoids this problem in the future.

Again, I'm not saying they are f*ed or that you screwed up, just saying that i hate the misinformation. This is a learning experience and you've just learned why to add veg nutes during week 3 and 4 to help with this problem.

I personally feed w/ 1/2 veg nutes 1/2 bloom nutes during those weeks and my plants will generally get harvested looking fantastic. I used to let them die off and man, it's a big difference when a happy healthy plant gets to gather up energy and build flowers compared to one that's lost all of it's leaves late in flower.

 

[phuque]

By bad i assumed it was during vegg did even read to check.. they are right leaves turn yellow during flowering but you should use the plant problem chart in the future tho i found it very helpfull.

 

[laserbrn]

By bad i assumed it was during vegg did even read to check.. they are right leaves turn yellow during flowering but you should use the plant problem chart in the future tho i found it very helpfull.

Any chance you can get a clearer pic? I'm assuming not as you would have done so already. Just want to see if there's any more symptoms to work with. It doesn't look like an N defeciency to me from what I can see, and you're saying it's not at the bottom. N Defeciencies typically start with the bottom leaves yellowing, not the middle-top leaves.

 

[Where in the hell am I?]

Thanks guys - is it a huge problem that these leaves are actually closer to the middle-top of the plant, not so much on the bottom?

No, you are fine. Your buds are fine, dont listen to anyone who tells you otherwise. We give our plants WHAT they need when they need it. There is no need fer the higher Nitrogen levels during flowering, as I already said

 

[user192021]

I personally feed w/ 1/2 veg nutes 1/2 bloom nutes during those weeks and my plants will generally get harvested looking fantastic.

I'm going to do this for a week or two and see if it improves my leaf quality. I used FF Grow Big nutes for veg and FF Tiger Bloom for flower in FFOF soil w/ mollasses used during flower only.

I'm at day 26 of 12/12 and I'm really losin' a lot of leaves here. More fan leaves are going yellow and they seem to be mostly around the middle - top of the plant. Seeing this many leaves die off is disconcerting when I think about how much longer I have to go until harvest.

The buds seem to be coming along nicely though - I veg'd this plant for like 4 months so I'm hopin' for a nice yeild.

 

[carr0t]

what kind of water are you using, u might need to add some cal-mag plus. without proper levels of calcium it'll throw all other nutrient uptake off, also, what is the ph.

 

[laserbrn]

No, you are fine. Your buds are fine, dont listen to anyone who tells you otherwise. We give our plants WHAT they need when they need it. There is no need fer the higher Nitrogen levels during flowering, as I already said

Haha, you're right, go ahead and listen to the guy who's been a member for 6 months and doesn't know what the fuck he's talking about.

These are the guys that harvest nothing because they spew and listen to the misinformation on this forum.

Anyone who's been around a long time that's grown pot for any length of time will tell you try to avoid this problem...

Why here's a link to Fox Farms Feeding Schedule...I wonder why it says to add GrowBig during weeks 3 and 4??

Must be because without leaves the plant has no energy.

Please don't give out information you don't have any business giving out and telling a guy that his plant is okay to be going yellow in the first freakin' 3rd of flowering.

It is true though that the plant doesn't need high levels of N anymore, but it needs some and your plant now has very little so give it a kicker and things should be okay.

Can you snap some new pics just to so we can take a look and see how their doing or if there's any other obvious signs of trouble. Yellowing at the top/middle isn't usually an N defeciency and I can really only tell what it is with pics. Could be potassium, but I can't see how the actual leaf looks in the pic.

 

[Where in the hell am I?]

Haha, you're right, go ahead and listen to the guy who's been a member for 6 months and doesn't know what the fuck he's talking about.

These are the guys that harvest nothing because they spew and listen to the misinformation on this forum.

Anyone who's been around a long time that's grown pot for any length of time will tell you try to avoid this problem...

Why here's a link to Fox Farms Feeding Schedule...I wonder why it says to add GrowBig during weeks 3 and 4??

Must be because without leaves the plant has no leaves.

Please don't give out information you don't have any business giving out and telling a guy that his plant is okay to be going yellow in the first freakin' 3rd of flowering.

It is true though that the plant doesn't need high levels of N anymore, but it needs some and your plant now has very little so give it a kicker and things should be okay.

Can you snap some new pics just to so we can take a look and see how their doing or if there's any other obvious signs of trouble. Yellowing at the top/middle isn't usually an N defeciency and I can really only tell what it is with pics. Could be potassium, but I can't see how the actual leaf looks in the pic.

Chek this out,DUDE, just because someone has only been on a website for a few months, has NOTHING to do w/how long they have been doing ANYTHING! Here is what I know!
A good nutrient formula needs to stimulate all aspects of the plant's growth and health-roots stems and leaves to start-the structural period of growth. And this means high nitrogen, appropriate phosphate, pretty high potassium, appropriate magnesium, calcium and sulfate-and then, of course, the full spectrum of micro nutrients. The plants go through their life cycle and they are triggered to change to their reproductive mode, typically by a change in day length-this is called photoperiodism.
An indoor gardener classically alters the light schedule from 18 (or 24, in a lot of yer wasteful types of grows around here!),hrs to 12 hrs of light per day. W/in a week or so the plant should strart to exress flowering. As we see the first sign of flowering, we CHANGE THE NUTRIENT BLEND into something very different so that the plant is able to produce flowers. As the plants continue to grow, we can further modify the nutrient blend, making it SOMEWHAT THREATENING TO THE PLANTS!!! The plants respond by CONVERTING ALL OF THEIR GROWING ENERGY TOWARDS MAKING FLOWERS to prepare for the next generation. You could say that plants are all about sex and all about their children The essence of life is defined by a limited lifetime and preparations for the next generation.
When plants are growing in a perfectly happy life, when they are young and in vegatative mode, they have no particular reason to reproduce. They're secure and growing vigorously and becoming biger and stronger. But, when the trigger comes of daylight shortening, the plants are being told by nature that winter is coming and the end of their lives are @ hand! And so, @ this point, the plants have to completely change their prorities towards reproductive growth. By switching the nutrients to something that enhances flower growth-and REDUCING NITROGEN SIGNIFICANTLY-the plants are now threatened by the nutrient regiment. They ARE NOT ON A STARVATION DIET, BUT A MODIFIED DIET that stimulates and enables reproductive growth! There's a different set of proirities going on from the grower's point of view, and the plant is responding. So now the job of the nutrient is to help the plant produce these wonderful flowers So, we're really now about helping the crop to flower-tremendously, because flowers are the precursors to fruit (BUD!!!!), and seed (or forcing her to try to pollinate by not intoducing a male). We provide the elements needed for abundant flowering and we reduce the nitrogen that was needed for early structural growth while ENHANCING ENGREDIENTS NEEDED FOR FLOWERING. Remember, you can not compel a plant to enter the reproductive phase through nutrients alone. Nutrients are enabler's-not trigger's. Day length change is a trigger. It's telling the plant that winter is approaching as days get shorter. But when you apply a trigger, you also must apply an enabler so that the plant is able to make that transition. If we were growing in a defecient environment the plant would not be able to reproduce very well so we provide what is needed for flower production and reduce the nitrogen that is needed for vegatative growth!
I'm fukin tired of ppl thinkin that just cause someone hasnt been on THIS site for long, means that they havent grown b4 or studied. You have no idea as to what I know. Just because I give a short answer does not mean that I do not know what I'm talking about. You should know better!
I truly hope that thisa help open your eyes to what NATURE HAS PROVEN ALREADY!

 

[laserbrn]

You have opened my eyes to nothing. You obviously understand the triggers and how it works, but what you are talking about is a long version of basic information. We know the nutrients need to be changed and we know that we need to lower the amounts of N, but when they get too low you lose too many leaves and while your nutrients may well be in great condition for the production of flowers, your plant has little energy being converted through photosynthesis. It has lost too many or all of it's fan leaves.

Try not having a dead plant at the end next time and see how fruitful it is. Like I said, some strains won't suffer using the same schedule and they will make it through with very little N, but generally most, Sativa's especially, will require some N in the 3rd and 4th week to preserve their already minimal foliage as they have stretched and grown a tremendous amount and consumed an overwhelming amount of N. Without your nutrients supplying many strains with additional N during flowering during weeks 3 & 4, by week 6 when your plant needs it's energy most, it won't be there.

I don't dispute your knowledge, but don't start your post telling him to disregard ANYONE's advice as yours is gospel and if you wait and see, his problem will spread quickly and he will lose too much foliage.

You can see already he has responded and stated that he's concerned as it is spreading rapidly and he is early in flower. The appropriate response is to add N and save the foliage.

 

[ideit]

Figured I'd throw in my 2 cents and just say that I get fantastic yields and my leaves begin to turn color in week 6 or so. By the time I harvest most the big fan leaves are half dead but all the smaller ones are still green. I've used AN 3-part (bloom recipe) by itself, and now am using sensi 2-part bloom with a few additives. I don't really care what the leaves look like at harvest, I'm more interested in the bud

HOWEVER, in this particular case, you said you're on day 23. That does seem a bit early for the leaves to be losing their vigor, and is most likely a deficiency. If your PH levels are correct you will likely need to give it that N boost laserbrn spoke of, then resume your bloom regiment.

Best of luck!

 

[carr0t]

Chek this out,DUDE, just because someone has only been on a website for a few months, has NOTHING to do w/how long they have been doing ANYTHING! Here is what I know!
A good nutrient formula needs to stimulate all aspects of the plant's growth and health-roots stems and leaves to start-the structural period of growth. And this means high nitrogen, appropriate phosphate, pretty high potassium, appropriate magnesium, calcium and sulfate-and then, of course, the full spectrum of micro nutrients. The plants go through their life cycle and they are triggered to change to their reproductive mode, typically by a change in day length-this is called photoperiodism.
An indoor gardener classically alters the light schedule from 18 (or 24, in a lot of yer wasteful types of grows around here!),hrs to 12 hrs of light per day. W/in a week or so the plant should strart to exress flowering. As we see the first sign of flowering, we CHANGE THE NUTRIENT BLEND into something very different so that the plant is able to produce flowers. As the plants continue to grow, we can further modify the nutrient blend, making it SOMEWHAT THREATENING TO THE PLANTS!!! The plants respond by CONVERTING ALL OF THEIR GROWING ENERGY TOWARDS MAKING FLOWERS to prepare for the next generation. You could say that plants are all about sex and all about their children The essence of life is defined by a limited lifetime and preparations for the next generation.
When plants are growing in a perfectly happy life, when they are young and in vegatative mode, they have no particular reason to reproduce. They're secure and growing vigorously and becoming biger and stronger. But, when the trigger comes of daylight shortening, the plants are being told by nature that winter is coming and the end of their lives are @ hand! And so, @ this point, the plants have to completely change their prorities towards reproductive growth. By switching the nutrients to something that enhances flower growth-and REDUCING NITROGEN SIGNIFICANTLY-the plants are now threatened by the nutrient regiment. They ARE NOT ON A STARVATION DIET, BUT A MODIFIED DIET that stimulates and enables reproductive growth! There's a different set of proirities going on from the grower's point of view, and the plant is responding. So now the job of the nutrient is to help the plant produce these wonderful flowers So, we're really now about helping the crop to flower-tremendously, because flowers are the precursors to fruit (BUD!!!!), and seed (or forcing her to try to pollinate by not intoducing a male). We provide the elements needed for abundant flowering and we reduce the nitrogen that was needed for early structural growth while ENHANCING ENGREDIENTS NEEDED FOR FLOWERING. Remember, you can not compel a plant to enter the reproductive phase through nutrients alone. Nutrients are enabler's-not trigger's. Day length change is a trigger. It's telling the plant that winter is approaching as days get shorter. But when you apply a trigger, you also must apply an enabler so that the plant is able to make that transition. If we were growing in a defecient environment the plant would not be able to reproduce very well so we provide what is needed for flower production and reduce the nitrogen that is needed for vegatative growth!
I'm fukin tired of ppl thinkin that just cause someone hasnt been on THIS site for long, means that they havent grown b4 or studied. You have no idea as to what I know. Just because I give a short answer does not mean that I do not know what I'm talking about. You should know better!
I truly hope that thisa help open your eyes to what NATURE HAS PROVEN ALREADY!

everything you said is correct. but it does not relate to the persons problems with their plants. You simply stated the lifecycle of a plant, that does not make you smart or studied.

i didnt know you spell ingredients, with an E at the beginning... You see i have very good grammar, i have read a lot a lot a lot ('a lot' is 2 words btw, a lot of people think its 1 word including my jr high principal)

i agree with the guy u disagree with...

yes u CAN successfully flower a plant with deficiencies or lockout, but yield is generally the first thing out the window, next is potency depending on how bad the problem is.

but to do it properly is a completely different topic, and thats whats being discussed here. so give up the pissing match. quit the cussing, it only makes u look more like a kid who no one can take seriously.

 

[Where in the hell am I?]

everything you said is correct. but it does not relate to the persons problems with their plants. You simply stated the lifecycle of a plant, that does not make you smart or studied.

i didnt know you spell ingredients, with an E at the beginning... You see i have very good grammar, i have read a lot a lot a lot ('a lot' is 2 words btw, a lot of people think its 1 word including my jr high principal)

i agree with the guy u disagree with...

yes u CAN successfully flower a plant with deficiencies or lockout, but yield is generally the first thing out the window, next is potency depending on how bad the problem is.

but to do it properly is a completely different topic, and thats whats being discussed here. so give up the pissing match. quit the cussing, it only makes u look more like a kid who no one can take seriously.

All of that and you point out 1 typo! I must have been right then, you guys really dont care. You go ahead and keep editing my grammar.

 

[Where in the hell am I?]

everything you said is correct. but it does not relate to the persons problems with their plants. You simply stated the lifecycle of a plant, that does not make you smart or studied.

i didnt know you spell ingredients, with an E at the beginning... You see i have very good grammar, i have read a lot a lot a lot ('a lot' is 2 words btw, a lot of people think its 1 word including my jr high principal)

i agree with the guy u disagree with...

yes u CAN successfully flower a plant with deficiencies or lockout, but yield is generally the first thing out the window, next is potency depending on how bad the problem is.

but to do it properly is a completely different topic, and thats whats being discussed here. so give up the pissing match. quit the cussing, it only makes u look more like a kid who no one can take seriously.

BTW, dont tell me to quit cussing, I dont give a fuk (and that's misspelled as well.), I am a grown ass man who IS able to use his own computer and credit card, so. . . If ya chose to take what I said and NOT focus on the beneficial parts of it, BULLY FER YA

 

[aerogrowerman]

BTW, dont tell me to quit cussing, I dont give a fuk (and that's misspelled as well.), I am a grown ass man who IS able to use his own computer and credit card, so. . . If ya chose to take what I said and NOT focus on the beneficial parts of it, BULLY FER YA

dude, with all respect, your straight out wrong, in the third and fourth weeks its BEST not NECESSARY to give a NITROGEN BOOST to avoid yellowing of the leaves early

stop typing information -unless you know what your talking about