what deficiency is THIS.FLOWER.

panta

Well-Known Member
day 25 flowering WR serious seeds,on lower leaves temo 24c,humidity 48%,600w hps ,light soil and perte,water every 3rd day
 

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft = Over-fertilization (especially Nitrogen), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more perlite, or something similar, in soil mix to improve soil aeration). Can occasionally be due to not enough Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), or Potassium (K).

Hope this helps!
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
wrong again- man you should really look into some more book smarts. nute burn doesnt have yellowing of the leafs. boy, for someone who slammed me for being book smart and not being experienced in a prior thread. an experienced grower would know that nute burn does not normally include yellowing of the leaves-
wow, guess goes to show your high level of experience you rave about and about how book smarts are irrelevant. sure, makes sense-your post has neither book smarts or grow experience. get off ur horse pal.
 

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
wrong again- man you should really look into some more book smarts. nute burn doesnt have yellowing of the leafs. boy, for someone who slammed me for being book smart and not being experienced in a prior thread. an experienced grower would know that nute burn does not normally include yellowing of the leaves-
wow, guess goes to show your high level of experience you rave about and about how book smarts are irrelevant. sure, makes sense-your post has neither book smarts or grow experience. get off ur horse pal.
Hahaha! I knew I'd get you with that one! ... Mr. Bookworm, do some reading, my answer was given from the Marijuana Plant Problem Solver BOOK ... Again, Mr. Bookworm, your arrogance amazes us all. I love arrogant people, they tend to be blinded by their own arrogance.

Did you not read the post I put in, allow me to highlight some key points for you:

Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft = Over-fertilization (especially Nitrogen), <-- Only one of the possible causes. over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more perlite, or something similar, in soil mix to improve soil aeration). Can occasionally be due to not enough Nitrogen (N), <-- Does cause yellowing of leaves. Phosphorus (P), or Potassium (K).
Remember, plant problems often go hand in hand, where there's one, there tends to me others.

I'd explain further but I know smokeybandit will get on his high horse and try talk shit bout it. Even though I'm yet to see any evidence he is a successful, experienced grower.

how book smarts are irrelevant
- I never said that, I said they're the best place to start, but you can't beat experience.

makes sense-your post has neither book smarts or grow experience
I guess the guys who wrote Marijuana Plant Problem Solver, The Cannabis Grow Bible and Marijuana Horticulture have no growing experience or book smarts... Cause mate, you just shot down a statement directly from those books.
Do your research bookworm, then give us real growers shit bout it.

Cheers all! Good luck panta!
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
yippie, ur the man. you claim to have the experience, so why quote the book? your diagnosis is it is either too much fert or not enough. cant u even read what u write?
ur 2 sec jumbled reply is a waste of time. if u had real experience, you would know, not quote a book stating it is either over fert or not enough, that the increased requirements for K and mg in the third week of flowering corrospond to the deficiency he has.
but I guess you wouldnt know that b/c you do not have the experience to determine what the issue is. sure it could be one of the other things, but in all likely, and if you even bothered to read his related thread on the same page, that this diagnosis is within range.

now, what is more helpful, lets see...one quoting a book stating it is over fert or not enough fert or someone who knows what the deal is who says it is K and mg given the prior thread, which you didnt take the time to read.

it's funny how u r calling me a bookworm when I stated my opinion from experience and you quoted a book. most of your reply posts in this forum are direct quotes from somewhere and nothing from experience.again pheonix, u r a hypocrit.
I am still waiting for you to show me a thread where your diagnosis was spot on...
 

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
it's funny how u r calling me a bookworm when I stated my opinion from experience and you quoted a book. most of your reply posts in this forum are direct quotes from somewhere and nothing from experience.
They are? That's news to me... Should point that out to me sometime.

I guess you didn't read that bit that said:
Hahaha! I knew I'd get you with that one!
- That's why it's quoted from a book, because you said yourself that that was the best place to get this kind of info, so that's the info I provided, and now you're the one saying it's wrong.

Anyway, I'll leave you to it, I'm not having these problems myself so it's not a big deal for me. I hope this person can sort out their difficulties and have great success in the future!

And seen as everyone loves books so much, here's some other stuff that might help, but I don't know, smokeybandit will likely think it's all completely wrong - But if you write your own book, I'll be sure to download the E-Book version and check it out!

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.

3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.

4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.

5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.

6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.

7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8&#8230;

8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.

9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...

10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.

11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.

12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.

13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not&#8230; You may just have a weak plant.


The Nutrients:

Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.

Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.

Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
Cheers everyone! Over and Out ~ GreenX ~
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
your post to his question, again, was a waste of time. all you did was quote a book that it may be over fert or not enough. now, if you can read, than reread the title of his thread.

and I have seen several of your posts that were quick quotes of a book-which is fine, but at least add some of your own opinion from experience as to what the problem could be.
oh wait, you cant. listen man, stop hating on me cause I dissed your scragly messy nugs. enough already.
 

spiked1

Well-Known Member
wrong again- man you should really look into some more book smarts. nute burn doesnt have yellowing of the leafs. boy, for someone who slammed me for being book smart and not being experienced in a prior thread. an experienced grower would know that nute burn does not normally include yellowing of the leaves-
wow, guess goes to show your high level of experience you rave about and about how book smarts are irrelevant. sure, makes sense-your post has neither book smarts or grow experience. get off ur horse pal.
:joint:
Where did that come from, was a post removed?
He said yellowing tips which is most commonly from over fertilization.
Didn't see anything about yellow leaves.
Am I missing something here, or is this just another hate fest?
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
who knows, he added something at somepoint. u came to the same conclusion I did-I think- after reading his post that it was overfert.
 

doniawon

Well-Known Member
They are? That's news to me... Should point that out to me sometime.

I guess you didn't read that bit that said: - That's why it's quoted from a book, because you said yourself that that was the best place to get this kind of info, so that's the info I provided, and now you're the one saying it's wrong.

Anyway, I'll leave you to it, I'm not having these problems myself so it's not a big deal for me. I hope this person can sort out their difficulties and have great success in the future!

And seen as everyone loves books so much, here's some other stuff that might help, but I don't know, smokeybandit will likely think it's all completely wrong - But if you write your own book, I'll be sure to download the E-Book version and check it out!



Cheers everyone! Over and Out ~ GreenX ~

Great post greenphonix.. very informative.. + rep ..
 

spiked1

Well-Known Member
who knows, he added something at somepoint. u came to the same conclusion I did-I think- after reading his post that it was overfert.
Well something strange is going on, there was a post between yours and mine that's now gone.
That's why I can't follow this thread, things have been said and then removed..So best if I stay out of it.
 

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
Where did that come from, was a post removed?
He said yellowing tips which is most commonly from over fertilization.
Didn't see anything about yellow leaves.
Am I missing something here, or is this just another hate fest?
That's cause nobody said anything about yellow leaves lol ... As you just mentioned, my post stated; Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Tips of leaves. Nothing was mentioned about the whole leaf, that was merely a misinterpretation. But it sounds like you already picked up on that.

Well something strange is going on, there was a post between yours and mine that's now gone.
That's why I can't follow this thread, things have been said and then removed..So best if I stay out of it.
My posts haven't been removed, and I haven't noticed any other posts disappearing or being altered, so I think what ever is confusing you was just lost in translation so to speak.
Anyway, I've unsubscribed from this thread now so I wish everyone the best of luck in their grows!!!

Hope you get those plants fixed up panta!
Cheers!
 

panta

Well-Known Member
i just found out that my solution was at ph 7.6,it use to be stable but i quess ever since i started using molasses it tends to go up,so now im gonna use ph'd pure water for a few waterings and get back to a mild fert. solution,what u thing how long should i wait to start using nutes again its close to day 30 now,shes suppose to finish on about 3 weeks
 
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