Plantman969.... A question would be more like " I'm curious why I get such a small reading on my TDS meter with this stuff ? " or " I don't understand why you would not foliar feed in flower ? "
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Not " that makes no sense, back it up, prove it, what's the deal, where is your reference " & " I blah, blah...yada, yada..yada... in your face buddy... "
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It's all about presentation. A politely asked question will get anwsered in a heartbeat. If you just want to exchange challenges & smart comments - what purpose will be served ?
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Now, for anyone who would like to know about why this Flower Power seems to be low on a TDS meter - I'll tell you.
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The process used by BMO uses bacteria to breakdown a certain mix of organic amendments. These bacteria bioconvert them from insoluble sources of NPK to soluble sources.
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This occurs by the use of enzymes produced by the bacteria, unlike harsh chemical ferts, which use much strong acids (which leave residues - conductive in nature). These enzymes convert the original element in to a purer / smaller (more absorbable form).
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I just took an half an ounce of Flower Power put it into a clean shot glass and checked the TDS with my best, clean, calibrated meter. It reads 7480 ppm, if I added this to a gallon of water which is 128 ounces, the conversion factor would 256, because you are using 1/2 of one unit (in this case) which is an ounce. Take the 7480 ppm and divide that by 256, that equals just a trace amount over 29 ppm.
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Now, that works out to be 29 ppm, which seems low to the average hydro person. But that is a measure of specific elements, without leftover chemical acids, without mineral salts, fillers, pH adjusters, chlorine, bromine or anything else. Plus this elements are bonded differently, because of the way they were processed (bioconverted).
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Take the average bloom booster, say 0-50-30 (serious overkill), this stuff is so concentrated they will tell you to mix it one teaspoon to five gallons of water. This yields a TDS reading of (product X) 100 ppm, some will tell you 200 ppm (product Y).
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Their is no difference in the NPK value of these boosters X or Y, that both have the same nute value, but with a different TDS reading. Wheter it is 100 ppm or 200 ppm in this case, both yield a nute value of 0-50-30 when mixed as instructed.
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This is were overhead comes in. They are mixing the same elements broken down chemically. Some of the mineral salts & residue from the strong processing chemicals remain, they either can't or don't take the time to remove them. The needed elements represent from 1/4 to 1/2 of the TDS reading on your TDS meter.
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The other 1/2 to 3/4 are the conductive mineral salts & or processing chemical residues, added dyes or pH stabilizers. So, out of that 100 ppm (product X) or 200 ppm (product Y) the desired / useable nutrients (what we are after) would be in the range of 25 to 50 ppm for Product X or 50 to 100 ppm for Product Y.
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The reason why I use a bloom boosters as a example, is because these boosters are simple (concentrated) additives in their purer forms.
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Now, since 1/2 to 3/4 of the total TDS (ppm readings) are dyes, fillers, insoluble mineral salts, processing chemical residues or pH stabilizers you can now see - the USEABLE portion of products X & Y are not really that large in percentage or ppm.
The unuseable portions actually read higher than, the desired / required elements.
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Now back to a bioconverted product, like Flower Power. What are they missing - dyes, fillers, pH stabilizers, insoluble mineral salts & harsh chemical residues (which make up most of the ppm numbers).
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That being said, now take that reading of 29 ppm, with a nute value (NPK) of 1-8-7, does it seem so weak now ? No, it's just the desired / required elements in a purer, cleaner form. No fillers, pH stablizers, dyes...etc.... So, should we be suprized that the Flower Power has a low ppm reading, not really.
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That's why I used the example of using a TDS pen in reg & decaf coffee to determine which one has caffine.
A TDS pen could not tell you which one has caffine and a TDS pen, in the above case, can't tell you the true NPK value of a product.
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The NPK value of a product is based on chemical tests (a known value), at a certain ppm reading. The ppm reading itself represents a known value, which is different for every product. Chemical testing is the only way to know the true value of a product.
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If you don't agree with this, google bioconversion. Read up on soluble, insolube elements, google properties of specfic minerals, EC of minerals, enzymes, water properties, how elements bind or percipitate in solution. Basic fertilizer components & processing, use of bacterial enzymes in processing, and fertilizer process residuals. Also read up on EC effects of microorganisms in solution (yes, bacteria alter (lower) ppm readings) by masking them (carbon binding). Mary likes carbon (building blocks).
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Then in a month or so, after you have a good ideal about what is going on, ask me some questions. I'll be glad to anwser specific, reasonable questions and even point you to specific references. I will not, anwser smarty pants questions, presented as challenges, with colorful phrases or comments.
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Don't take this as me being stand-offish, or claiming to be all that. I'm just saying, put in your time, study up, then ask better questions. You'll be smarter / more well informed and the discussion will, be just that. An exchange of ideas & knowledge.
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If you can't ask nicely, don't ask.........
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This has just been a reacurring issue an most sites when asking a question ( just like Dirt) they all want to have smart ass responses or statments with nothing to back it up besides bashing someone just looking for info. It is my personallity i tend to take things the wrong way.
also i am in no way trying to exchange challenges with you i am just the type that like someone to post explinations when writing comments. Once agin i am sorry if i offended/mad you mad.