SS420's new hydro grow - Blueberry, White Shark, ChemDog, OG kush

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Here ya are. my a/c kicks on every 5 mins temps are stable at 84 but look how high my liighting is. Most guys 40+ days into flower are right on top of the colas. Thats mostly my concern. I just cant drop these lights down.

alright.. that makes things a little easier to help....

i believe your problem is this.. your a/c exhaust is just heating up the garage air.. so even tho its blowing cool air in the tent, its surrounded by hot air, which will raise the temp... like the inside of your house on a hot day... couple that with the positive air pressure in your tent, and you have heat issues that the a/c cant fix... TM had the same issue..

first what you need to do is run all your exhaust out the window if you can.. easy way to do this is to get a piece of cardboard and cut it larger than the window so it can be attached to the frame, or around it some how, on the inside... cut your duct hole in the middle of the cardboard and attach your duct to it... waa laa.. simple way to exhaust your heat outside... thats assuming you can run both your a/c and light exhausts...

another option would be to install the a/c in the window so it exhausts outside and run the light exhaust somewhere else to dump it... the a/c would cool the garage temp, which would help lower the temp of the tent from the outside in, plus the tent would pull the cool air in passively.. it would also run cool air over your lights meaning you can drop them down more...

we can start with those two ideas and work from there.. either sound like they fit the ticket??
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
hey man, i'm gkn and i'm definetely subscribed for this one...i haven't made it all the way through yet, but i'm lovin the work you do..you're welcomed anytime at my humble little journal: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/209151-400w-auto-grow.html#post2682619
peace man, and happy growing :peace:


gkn

welcome bro.. glad you stopped by to check things out.. always good to have new "faces" around...

thanks a lot for the compliments.. its been a hell of a trip so far.. and the fun is just about to begin... glad you are planning on checking things out and sticking through the long haul... anything you have questions on feel free to ask.. lots of knowledge around here..

ill definatly be stopping by your journal and checkin things out...
 

Lennard

Well-Known Member
alright.. that makes things a little easier to help....

i believe your problem is this.. your a/c exhaust is just heating up the garage air.. so even tho its blowing cool air in the tent, its surrounded by hot air, which will raise the temp... like the inside of your house on a hot day... couple that with the positive air pressure in your tent, and you have heat issues that the a/c cant fix... TM had the same issue..

first what you need to do is run all your exhaust out the window if you can.. easy way to do this is to get a piece of cardboard and cut it larger than the window so it can be attached to the frame, or around it some how, on the inside... cut your duct hole in the middle of the cardboard and attach your duct to it... waa laa.. simple way to exhaust your heat outside... thats assuming you can run both your a/c and light exhausts...

another option would be to install the a/c in the window so it exhausts outside and run the light exhaust somewhere else to dump it... the a/c would cool the garage temp, which would help lower the temp of the tent from the outside in, plus the tent would pull the cool air in passively.. it would also run cool air over your lights meaning you can drop them down more...

we can start with those two ideas and work from there.. either sound like they fit the ticket??

I had my DIY vertically right next to the a/c and it was just sucking in all the cool air the a/c was producing. Now this sets the course for the rest of your thoughts. I let it go this way overnight and room temps climbed 5 degrees so I woke up right at the end of their cycle and walked in my garage and sure enough it was a sweat shop in there. When I mounted the filter how it is in pics the temps stabilized to 84. I have a great draft thru my garage so now I kind of use the draft of my house to mitigate the problem. So yes definitly one of the issues. But, Im still 30 + inches off the top kolas. If I drop the lights any lower I get bleaching and heat stress symptoms.

Is there such thing as a negative pressure? I know for a fact I take out way more air than I push in. Thank you :mrgreen:
 

GrowKindNugs

Well-Known Member
no problem my friend...i'll be here till the end and i'm sure i'll have some questions...come on over, we've got a chill little thread goin and don't hesitate to post your pics, i encourage it!


gkn
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
I had my DIY vertically right next to the a/c and it was just sucking in all the cool air the a/c was producing. Now this sets the course for the rest of your thoughts. I let it go this way overnight and room temps climbed 5 degrees so I woke up right at the end of their cycle and walked in my garage and sure enough it was a sweat shop in there. When I mounted the filter how it is in pics the temps stabilized to 84. I have a great draft thru my garage so now I kind of use the draft of my house to mitigate the problem. So yes definitly one of the issues. But, Im still 30 + inches off the top kolas. If I drop the lights any lower I get bleaching and heat stress symptoms.

Is there such thing as a negative pressure? I know for a fact I take out way more air than I push in. Thank you :mrgreen:

ok... first, yes, you can have a negative pressure.. it happens in my grow room when i dont have the door open to it... it will actually bow the poly "door" i have inwards towards the room.. you can tell if you have negative or possitive pressure by the way your tent bows.. if it is pushing out, so the tent looks like it is blowing up you have a positive pressure in it.. if it sucks in you have a negative pressure...

now, when it comes to ducting you have to remember that every 90 degree bend in the duct cuts fan efficiency by 60%... according to your diagram you have 4x 90 degree bends.. now obviously you dont lose 360% efficiency, but it is cut WAY down, even if the area the duct run isnt big...

is it possible you can move the a/c to the other side of the tent, opposite of the filter?? so the intake of your light exhaust would actually pull the cold air all the way across the tent verse sucking it to the middle and through the exhaust?? or possibly stick a box fan in front of the a/c so it blows the air throughout the tent?? and im still a little confused, but does your a/c exhaust straight into the garage?? or does it have its own exhaust set up on it??
 

tea tree

Well-Known Member
right on it! Og Kush. I myself have just germed an og kush #18 fem from reserva privada and am planning on replacing the white widow I am currently running in my four pot perpetual medical tree garden. I am growing trees in soil, the whole organic super soil method and loving that. I started in hydro and decided to try this for a while.

Keep the OG going. I look forward to comparing pics. I just germed her and put her into the RR pucks and some lightwarrior.

I have yet to catch up on yer whole journal but I will not, I needed somne good reading.
 

Lennard

Well-Known Member
ok... first, yes, you can have a negative pressure.. it happens in my grow room when i dont have the door open to it... it will actually bow the poly "door" i have inwards towards the room.. you can tell if you have negative or possitive pressure by the way your tent bows.. if it is pushing out, so the tent looks like it is blowing up you have a positive pressure in it.. if it sucks in you have a negative pressure...

now, when it comes to ducting you have to remember that every 90 degree bend in the duct cuts fan efficiency by 60%... according to your diagram you have 4x 90 degree bends.. now obviously you dont lose 360% efficiency, but it is cut WAY down, even if the area the duct run isnt big...

is it possible you can move the a/c to the other side of the tent, opposite of the filter?? so the intake of your light exhaust would actually pull the cold air all the way across the tent verse sucking it to the middle and through the exhaust?? or possibly stick a box fan in front of the a/c so it blows the air throughout the tent?? and im still a little confused, but does your a/c exhaust straight into the garage?? or does it have its own exhaust set up on it??
Yes exhaust from A/C is just open into the garage. But I channel the heat thru the garage with a draft.. works really really well.

I think I can actually get this done real quick actually, instead of moving the a/c ill move the exhast fan. Its actually just a 2x2 wood panel. same thing on the other side. man thanks for the reversal idea this will surely work better for the heat. now the hot exhaust from the lights doesnt have to wrap around and go back across the outside of the tent because the air flows in thru that window, not out.

I hope I can bring the lighting down a bit more close as well with this change but it just burns for some reason. even at 30" I feel its warmth on my hand. Real lightly but I do. Thats why I thought the lumatek may just be ironman type crazy ballasts :hump:. Thanks a ton buddy. :blsmoke::mrgreen:
 

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simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Yes exhaust from A/C is just open into the garage. But I channel the heat thru the garage with a draft.. works really really well.

I think I can actually get this done real quick actually, instead of moving the a/c ill move the exhast fan. Its actually just a 2x2 wood panel. same thing on the other side. man thanks for the reversal idea this will surely work better for the heat. now the hot exhaust from the lights doesnt have to wrap around and go back across the outside of the tent because the air flows in thru that window, not out.

I hope I can bring the lighting down a bit more close as well with this change but it just burns for some reason. even at 30" I feel its warmth on my hand. Real lightly but I do. Thats why I thought the lumatek may just be ironman type crazy ballasts :hump:. Thanks a ton buddy. :blsmoke::mrgreen:
yea.. also im not sure if i said this, but once you reverse it, try moving the DIY horizontal with the lights, or at least try to remove one of those 90 degree bends.. but it sounds like you should work.. the thing is you have a SHIT ton of lighting for the space you have... 3x8 area is 18 sq/ft... 2x 1000w hps = 300000 lumens... 300000 lumens/18 sq/ft is well over 16000 lumens per square foot... thats more than the sun by 6000 lumens!! so even if the heat issue gets solved it might still bleach.. you may need to down grade to 2 600s, which you can still use the 1000w ballasts for... or 1 x 1000w.... bleaching isnt a heat prob its a over lighting prob... but im glad you got the possible heat prob solution!

ya and i can record now yaya,,,,your busted now bitch ......LOL

thank bro appreciate it's just a B/W 5" screen w/ 4 cameras.. im at peace now,knowing i can record when i goto town, and now i can go hunting..... yyaaa:hump::mrgreen:
damn it.. no more sneaking in late at night and jerkin off to your girls...
 

mygirls

Medical Marijuana (MOD)
yea.. also im not sure if i said this, but once you reverse it, try moving the DIY horizontal with the lights, or at least try to remove one of those 90 degree bends.. but it sounds like you should work.. the thing is you have a SHIT ton of lighting for the space you have... 3x8 area is 18 sq/ft... 2x 1000w hps = 300000 lumens... 300000 lumens/18 sq/ft is well over 16000 lumens per square foot... thats more than the sun by 6000 lumens!! so even if the heat issue gets solved it might still bleach.. you may need to down grade to 2 600s, which you can still use the 1000w ballasts for... or 1 x 1000w.... bleaching isnt a heat prob its a over lighting prob... but im glad you got the possible heat prob solution!



damn it.. no more sneaking in late at night and jerkin off to your girls...
no you can't jerk them offyou may use your finger though......LOL
you funny man..
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
not jerk them off.. jerkin myself off lookin at them.. but now that you gave me the go ahead to finger em im gonna molest the hell out of them.. :)
 

Lennard

Well-Known Member
yea.. also im not sure if i said this, but once you reverse it, try moving the DIY horizontal with the lights, or at least try to remove one of those 90 degree bends.. but it sounds like you should work.. the thing is you have a SHIT ton of lighting for the space you have... 3x8 area is 18 sq/ft... 2x 1000w hps = 300000 lumens... 300000 lumens/18 sq/ft is well over 16000 lumens per square foot... thats more than the sun by 6000 lumens!! so even if the heat issue gets solved it might still bleach.. you may need to down grade to 2 600s, which you can still use the 1000w ballasts for... or 1 x 1000w.... bleaching isnt a heat prob its a over lighting prob... but im glad you got the possible heat prob solution!



damn it.. no more sneaking in late at night and jerkin off to your girls...
Have two 600's in there. Not 1000's. I did the reversal and the temps dropped a few more degrees, down to about 82 - 83 stable.


New topic:

Im not sure its bleaching now. I think it may just be a Mg def. that gets brought out when the lighting gets within 30" from the tops. This paragraph pretty much sums it up id say but its a whole different game from reading something to talking to experienced people about it.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688&page=1&pp=15

"
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
"

This is exactly whats been going on. And I have cut back on the cal mag lately.

If your base nutes say "recommended EC: 1.2 1.8" Is your take on that that the overall EC of the mix should be between these numbers? Or that you should build up a base EC / PPM equivalent of say 1.2 then add the other nutes according to the recomendation on the bottle?

Per say:
canna coco nutes: 1.2-1.8 EC rec
Cal Mag: 5-10ml rec / gal
sweet: 10 - 15 ml / gal
hygrozyme: 10ml / gal


Now if I was to put in 1.2 EC of base nutes, 5ml of cal mag, 10ml of sweet and 10ml hygrozyme my EC would be off the chart. But would It be ok considering most of these all are different elements?

Thanks again for your help time and input, I took a pic of a leaf for you to check out maybe someone can diagnose it.
 

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simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Have two 600's in there. Not 1000's. I did the reversal and the temps dropped a few more degrees, down to about 82 - 83 stable.


New topic:

Im not sure its bleaching now. I think it may just be a Mg def. that gets brought out when the lighting gets within 30" from the tops. This paragraph pretty much sums it up id say but its a whole different game from reading something to talking to experienced people about it.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688&page=1&pp=15

"
Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
"

This is exactly whats been going on. And I have cut back on the cal mag lately.

If your base nutes say "recommended EC: 1.2 1.8" Is your take on that that the overall EC of the mix should be between these numbers? Or that you should build up a base EC / PPM equivalent of say 1.2 then add the other nutes according to the recomendation on the bottle?

Per say:
canna coco nutes: 1.2-1.8 EC rec
Cal Mag: 5-10ml rec / gal
sweet: 10 - 15 ml / gal
hygrozyme: 10ml / gal


Now if I was to put in 1.2 EC of base nutes, 5ml of cal mag, 10ml of sweet and 10ml hygrozyme my EC would be off the chart. But would It be ok considering most of these all are different elements?

Thanks again for your help time and input, I took a pic of a leaf for you to check out maybe someone can diagnose it.

sorry about mixing up the 1000s and 600s.. sometimes i switch parts of other grows in my head.. i appologize as it prolly wont be the last time it happens...

first im glad to hear you at least got a couple degrees of relief... can you possibly add a fresh air duct from the window into the grow tent to passively bring in fresh air?? it will help co2 levels.. the higher the temps the more co2 you need to add to suppliment because it gets used up faster.. butas long as you are moving air around well you should be ok.. it shouldnt affect growth to much... which brings me to the mg issue...

you might not have an mg deficiency at all... generally speaking there is enough mg in soil that we really dont need to add any during growth... that is not to say its doesnt happen.. but usually the problem lies else where...

low MG is usually related to a soil PH problem... soils that seem to lack mg are usually acidic... mg gets locked out as PH gets lower... so the problem could be just that your soil is too acidic and that the mg is getting locked out... do you know or have you checked the soil ph or run off ph?? it could be just as simple as raising the soil ph...

now this brings up whether to use epsom salt of dolomite lime... epsom salt will not actually raise the soils ph.. its a neutral salt and does little if anything for the soil ph... so if the soils ph is low, and that is whats causing the lock out, you should use dolomitic lime to raise it... this will make the mg available again and things will go back to normal.. if the soils PH is ok, which means it actually is an MG def, then adding epsom salt will replenish the mg... but make sure you check the soils ph before adding either dolomite lime or epsom salt.. if the problem is the ph, adding epsom salt will only further the problem... but if ph is ok and it is an MG def the lime will do nothing to help...

as far as the EC of the nutes... the 1.2 to 1.8 is the ideal range to have when you have everything total mixed in... so if its saying that you want an ec of 1.2 to 1.8, that is the finish ec after you have added everything in water for feeding..
 

tilemaster

Well-Known Member
Ya SS i spent this morning fucking round on the computer..posted a craigslist advert in small bizness services tryn to snag up a couple more patinets with a caregiver add.. then i wuz tryn to create a web page..domain name and all that..but its looking pitful without some cash on that end.. or some web know how.. Then i started checking out different hardware for hydro..just googling pricing and systems.. I really just focused on ebb and flow, because when i do switch, ive just been set on the flood and drain for awhile...I orginally was thinking of filling my back wall of my bud room, with a 4x8tray, and then adding another 3x3 on the end. those 4x8 complete tray drain pump and plumping, with the bonicare trays and table are like at least 1k not to mention another full tray and rez for the 3x3. Which brings me to my second thought while trolling around for hydro products..........Then ebb and gro, that your using was like 5 billz...and i totally like how u can pull the inner site right out of the buket, for rotating it. and its expanable by 6 sites at a time. Now im really wanting to see this bitch in action.
 
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