Plant Moisture Stress - Symptoms and Solutions

[dakin3d]

I look forward the UB's opinion, but that looks like a fungus to me.

Big pots, small plants, lot's of water, high RH.

Hey Doc,

Could you elaborate on what you mean? Is this fungus found in the soil and secreting something that is toxic to the plant? Or you mean directly growing on the leaves of the plant? If on the leaves, wouldn't this be visible in someway, besides the browning of the leaves, of course. The reason I ask is that there is no visible signs (naked eye) of anything 'growing' on the flesh of leaves. You'll have to excuse my ignorance, as I am unmistakably, a newb. However, I do have a degree in Molecular and Microbio, as well as extensive lab experience, so I'm not totally oblivious (I hate qualifying, but...). Thanks for your input and I look forward to your response.

 

[MrBlanco]

I'd be interested too because I just transplanted from 16oz. cups to 5g buckets and thought humidity was supposed to be over 50%.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Uncle Ben, if you have a few moments I'm having an issue with one of my plants.

Here's a link to my grow topic https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/263995-my-cfl-grow.html and my latest post (with pics) in it https://www.rollitup.org/3324306-post15.html

Briefly took a look at that thread. For starts, that's not enough light. If you have an imbalance of light to salts, it will show in the leaves as necrotic dots, copper color dots. That is a stressful event happening and a precursor to complete leaf necrosis, leaf drop.

This is an educated guess as I'm not there to assess your activities on a day to day basis.

If your plants were showing roots growing out the drainholes, it's time to upcan. That's a good sign. IOW, they aren't rotting.

I would use foods who's salts are higher in N.

Hey UB,

I would like to get your input regarding the photos I have attached of browning leaves on a few of my plants. I have my suspicions, but am not 100% sure what this is a sign of...?? If any additional info is needed just let me know. I am currently growing in Fox Farm, Happy Frog soil.

Does it have a nutrient charge, and if so what is it? Most potting soils do.

I have fed approximately twice on a 1 in 3 feed rotation using Botanicare Pro Grow at 66% and 100% of recommended concentration, respectively.

Sorry my friend, doesn't mean a thing to me. You apply foods according to plants' requirements, not some recommendation on a label. You also apply foods based on certain ratios dependent on what you're trying to accomplish. IOW, promoting foliage requires a higher N ratio than say....a 1-3-2.

I have been watering about every 3 days in 2 gallon cheap nursery pots. RH is high, 55-71%; Temp ranged from 62-79 F in last 8 days. Initially saw signs of browning over the past 3-4 days, and has progressively gotten worse. Vegging 24/0 under 400W Hortilux Ace.

1. Increase the temp, go for a 15F differential day/night.

2. Plants need a rest. Recommend a 20/4 for veg.

3. Can't comment on the lighting as I don't know what your plants are actually receiving regarding f.c.

My room has limited ventilation, although I am using an oscillating fan in a 7.5x7.5x9' space. I appreciate your insight, and thank you in advance! Cheers.

Sounds good. Good air movement is necessary to keep disease pressures at bay, especially during flowering.

Good luck,
UB

 

[MrBlanco]

Briefly took a look at that thread. For starts, that's not enough light. If you have an imbalance of light to salts, it will show in the leaves as necrotic dots, copper color dots. That is a stressful event happening and a precursor to complete leaf necrosis, leaf drop.

This is an educated guess as I'm not there to assess your activities on a day to day basis.

If your plants were showing roots growing out the drainholes, it's time to upcan. That's a good sign. IOW, they aren't rotting.

I would use foods who's salts are higher in N.

UB

I have 260w running right now, how much more do I need? I'm working on getting them positioned better, but all of the plants have at least one light 1-3" away.

I have a new problem. I checked the drainoff pH of my Santa Berry, which is really droopy and sad looking, and it was somewhere between 7-7.5, according to the color chart. I have no idea how this happened because I check and adjust the pH of all the water I give them.

 

[Uncle Ben]

I have 260w running right now, how much more do I need? I'm working on getting them positioned better, but all of the plants have at least one light 1-3" away.

Don't know, as I (nor you) have a clue of what they are really receiving. Remove all doubt and buy a light meter that registers up to 10K f.c.

I have a new problem. I checked the drainoff pH of my Santa Berry, which is really droopy and sad looking, and it was somewhere between 7-7.5, according to the color chart. I have no idea how this happened because I check and adjust the pH of all the water I give them.

Can you trust the accuracy of the chart? If you're in soil, that pH is fine, besides folks put way to much emphasis on pH values. Human dynamics being that they use the ruse of a pH imbalance to try to explain away something else that is wrong with their applications, their methods. IOW, it's kinda like adding epsom salts, it is the easy way out. Could be "God's will", ya never know.

Good luck,
UB

 

[MrBlanco]

Don't know, as I (nor you) have a clue of what they are really receiving. Remove all doubt and buy a light meter that registers up to 10K f.c.



Can you trust the accuracy of the chart? If you're in soil, that pH is fine, besides folks put way to much emphasis on pH values. Human dynamics being that they use the ruse of a pH imbalance to try to explain away something else that is wrong with their applications, their methods. IOW, it's kinda like adding epsom salts, it is the easy way out. Could be "God's will", ya never know.

Good luck,
UB

Groovy.

It's a pH kit made for hydroponics since I'm using 2-1 perlite/vermiculite as my medium. I was just worried at seeing green test water instead of the pee yellow of 6. I foliar fed my plants last night and they all showed improvement this morning. So maybe the pH is locking out nutes?

I did some more moving with my lights.

 

[badness]

hey ub,
just wanted to thank you for turning me on to the micrkote, it's the best product i have ever used and it's cheap!
got one q for you: what is the best thing to do after an initial overfeeding? everytime i start feeding my plants the first few weeks of flowering the same thing happens like clockwork. the fan leaves all turn yellow and fall off starting at the bottom of plant. tips show burning. i flush the plants when this happens then of coarse feed them less the next time but the plants never seem to recover. maybe i'm not flushing enough? well i just bought a good (blue lab) ppm meter and i am going to start using it, but i've never used one nor worried about ppm.
so if you could give me some advise on what to do after overfeeding the plants the first time (i don't feed them much in veg and only organic stuff) and how i can utilize the ppm meter. i am in dirt by the way. thanks ub.

 

[dakin3d]

Does it have a nutrient charge, and if so what is it? Most potting soils do.

I assume so, and I am waiting on the response from Fox Farm for that specific information. I do know that it contains a lot of organic products, which if I understand correctly, it would be hard to get nutrient burning, especially from a pre-mix, but who knows. The main components are earthworm castings, mycorrhizae (as well as various beneficial bacteria's), bat guano, and humic acid. Not sure if this matters...

Sorry my friend, doesn't mean a thing to me. You apply foods according to plants' requirements, not some recommendation on a label. You also apply foods based on certain ratios dependent on what you're trying to accomplish. IOW, promoting foliage requires a higher N ratio than say....a 1-3-2.

Hehe, I'm sure it doesn't and I apologize if I didn't give more useful information, however I wanted to provide you as much as possible in hopes that you could aid in diagnosing my current problem, and I truly appreciate your help. I would like to clarify what your saying: So, when you add nutrients you do so in a reactive manner, rather than proactive, according to how your plants are growing, and what they're 'telling you' based on observation? Otherwise, I wouldn't necessarily know what specific requirements the plant needs, other than the generalized guideline on the back of the bottle. I guess you are insinuating that I should know what exactly is going into my plants by adding individual components rather than a pre-mixed nutrient made by a corporation? Also, I would love to accomplish all of the things that make for a successful grow, including promoting foliage, larger roots, healthier, fuller plants, larger yields, etc. Could you give me some insight as to how to do this?... Or more specifically, what do you use to feed, in general, and what processes do these involve when taking into consideration feed schedule, etc.

1. Increase the temp, go for a 15F differential day/night.

2. Plants need a rest. Recommend a 20/4 for veg.

3. Can't comment on the lighting as I don't know what your plants are actually receiving regarding f.c.

I appreciate the recommendations, and I have implemented both, as of today.

Sounds good. Good air movement is necessary to keep disease pressures at bay, especially during flowering.

Can too much fan be a problem? IOW, is is a bad thing to keep the fan on the plants consistently, w/o oscillation?


Last, do you use CO2? Is it a bad thing to use CO2 in an environment that will receive very little 'new air', due to lack of ventilation?

And are you aware if supercropping stunts a plant?

UB, again, thank you, I appreciate your time.... Now if I can only get some Meds! Dry for over a month now Cheers!

 

[Uncle Ben]

hey ub,
just wanted to thank you for turning me on to the micrkote, it's the best product i have ever used and it's cheap!
got one q for you: what is the best thing to do after an initial overfeeding? everytime i start feeding my plants the first few weeks of flowering the same thing happens like clockwork. the fan leaves all turn yellow and fall off starting at the bottom of plant. tips show burning. i flush the plants when this happens then of coarse feed them less the next time but the plants never seem to recover. maybe i'm not flushing enough? well i just bought a good (blue lab) ppm meter and i am going to start using it, but i've never used one nor worried about ppm.
so if you could give me some advise on what to do after overfeeding the plants the first time (i don't feed them much in veg and only organic stuff) and how i can utilize the ppm meter. i am in dirt by the way. thanks ub.

I don't know if you've overfed or not as you have not told me what you're using, the frequency and amount nor the size of the plants. The loss of lower fan leaves is typical around here, it's a cultural thing and many times the result of using cannabis foods that don't contain enough N.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Hehe, I'm sure it doesn't and I apologize if I didn't give more useful information, however I wanted to provide you as much as possible in hopes that you could aid in diagnosing my current problem, and I truly appreciate your help. I would like to clarify what your saying: So, when you add nutrients you do so in a reactive manner, rather than proactive, according to how your plants are growing, and what they're 'telling you' based on observation?

Proactive as in trying to predict what is to come. If your plants are growing out of a young stage and into an adult stage, naturally they will require more salts. If they are very young or in a state of late flowering, then you need to back off, or, you'll screw them up with no chance of recovery.

Reactive is watching your lower leaves drop because you've been using some cannabis miracle bloom food which is really designed to promote leaf drop ("they" don't tell you that). Takes time (and money) for folks to realize it. Lessons hard learned for the noob who's letting themselves to be taken advantage of, vendor does more trips to the bank for deposits - it's all about the money.

Otherwise, I wouldn't necessarily know what specific requirements the plant needs, other than the generalized guideline on the back of the bottle.

That's the worse place to start. You need to research plant nutrition in hardback or on the web.

I guess you are insinuating that I should know what exactly is going into my plants by adding individual components rather than a pre-mixed nutrient made by a corporation?

Nope, I'm saying you need to understand plant nutrition and then compare what you've learned with the crap you read off the typical label.

Also, I would love to accomplish all of the things that make for a successful grow, including promoting foliage, larger roots, healthier, fuller plants, larger yields, etc. Could you give me some insight as to how to do this?... Or more specifically, what do you use to feed, in general, and what processes do these involve when taking into consideration feed schedule, etc.

You'll just have to learn Botany 101 on your own. Aint mah yob mah man.

UB

 

[Lifted1]

runnin just a single drain hole at bottom of pail 1.5 inch up.

75/25 perlite/vermiculite

veg'd with low ppm botanicare grow

1st week of flower fed twice 500 ppm GH Flora Nova Bloom.

room temps 75 during light 64 nights.

added cal-mag for last feeding by mistake as not needed and i bought for veg res. i think Flora Nova has both already oops. would that cause this?

all suggestions appreciated.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Can too much fan be a problem? IOW, is is a bad thing to keep the fan on the plants consistently, w/o oscillation?

Keep the fans on constantly.

Last, do you use CO2? Is it a bad thing to use CO2 in an environment that will receive very little 'new air', due to lack of ventilation?

Waste of time.

And are you aware if supercropping stunts a plant?

I have no opinion on "supercropping", but if I had to lean one way or the other, it would be that's it's just another forum gimmick. If it sounds good, then it's gotta be, right?

"Believe nothing of what you hear and half of what you see."

UB

 

[Lifted1]

Yo Ben! whataya think is goin on with my gals????? u ever c this b4? should i flush or do ya think this is an overwatering problem?????

 

[Uncle Ben]

Yo Ben! whataya think is goin on with my gals????? u ever c this b4? should i flush or do ya think this is an overwatering problem?????

Have you looked at the root system?

 

[MikeyPeenz]

Hi Uncle Ben, thank you for creating this thread! I have a quick question for you if your not too busy.

I have recently discovered some leaves om my plant which is about 12 days old, they are starting to look copperish and coupling, is this due to over watering?? i'll post pics and maybe the link to my grow if u want to check it out. Any advice is very appreciated, thank you for your time.

here is link
https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/261235-indoor-cfl-journal-1st-grow.html

 

[Jack*Madison]

From those pictures it could be over nuting or over watering. Are you giving fertilizer yet?

 

[MikeyPeenz]

From those pictures it could be over nuting or over watering. Are you giving fertilizer yet?

no nuts yet, the copperish colour could be over watering, i find i have to water daily, dry soil. Temps have been from 79-90! i have it stable now at 81, humidity is about 44%
i have them on 24/7 right now until day 16 which is this weekend.

 

[dakin3d]

no nuts yet, the copperish colour could be over watering, i find i have to water daily, dry soil. Temps have been from 79-90! i have it stable now at 81, humidity is about 44%
i have them on 24/7 right now until day 16 which is this weekend.

Always interested to hear from UB, as he will set the record straight....

But what kind of soil are you using? It appears that you using a time released soil by observation of your pics? If so, this obviously already has fert in it. When your medium becomes dry (you stated that it was becoming dry daily), this increases the chance of nutrient burn when the plants are young due to increase in salt concentration w/in medium. I experienced this in my previous grow b/c I started out using a MG soil that contained time release nute's... IMHO, I agree w/ Jack, nutrient burn.

It shouldn't be over watering, given your information is correct. If the soil is truly dry... Compare a container that you have just planted, no water; to a container that you just planted, watered. Weight of container is one reliable way to tell. Sticking your finger deep into the soil an inch or two, is NOT reliable.

Keep in mind that I myself, am a new grower. So, take it for what its worth. Just trying to pass along my recently learned lessons. Cheers!

 

[Uncle Ben]

no nuts yet, the copperish colour could be over watering, i find i have to water daily, dry soil. Temps have been from 79-90! i have it stable now at 81, humidity is about 44%
i have them on 24/7 right now until day 16 which is this weekend.

It's some type of leaf scorch. What caused it is your call. Did you get a light too close to the leaves?

You're bound to have some nutrition in your soil.

Solid advice dakin3d

 

[MikeyPeenz]

Hey guys, thanks for the responses! I had posted a few days ago in my journal that i had came home from skool one afternoon and noticed my plants were close to the lights, about 2 inches away, i thought immediatly heat burn! but upon furthur inspection, i have read through the soil i have, and it does contain time release ferts. Im not using mg soil, but some soil made by shultz. Is it too early to transplant out of this soil into new? i have to put the ladies in new pots soon, and was debating weather to do this now or wait till the weekend when i begin veg. Will transplanting now cause more stress to these ladies? i have delt with high heat issues, almost 90's, and have finally sorted this problem out.
Thanks again for the information and clarification, i have had a few conflicting reports and just wanted to be sure.