My first grow **White Widow**w/pics

capecodkid

capecodkid

Active Member
shut the fuck up...i used to know marilyn very well she was my boys girlfriends best friend.. shes got a kid with steve perkins
 
capecodkid

capecodkid

Active Member
Yup thats about when i started hangin out with her did you know her friend kristen morin lived like 3 houses away.
 
cadeneli

cadeneli

Active Member
Boston's Best said:
I noticed you are not venting your light. Make sure you have a thermometer in the room! Those 400w lights get super hot. Is your ballast built into your reflector? Looks like it is from that picture. That makes it even hotter if it is too. If its one of the Sunleaves Pulsar Mini reflector w/ built in ballast, they have a bolt on fan and glass that lets you vent the light for less than $80. The fan is $65 and the glass is $15. That will cut down lots of heat and let you put the light even closer to the plants. Closer light = more lumens, more efficiency, more growth, less money on power!
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I also use a 400w hps (aircooled). Although your plants look good and healthy I think they could be a lot bigger at 3 weeks. The radiant heat may be holding them back a bit. Remember its the temps at the top of the plants you want to moniter. You can always add co2 to counter slightly high temps. Don't get me wrong they look great. Fine tuning really makes a big difference sometimes
 
capecodkid

capecodkid

Active Member
cadeneli said:
I also use a 400w hps (aircooled). Although your plants look good and healthy I think they could be a lot bigger at 3 weeks. The radiant heat may be holding them back a bit. Remember its the temps at the top of the plants you want to moniter. You can always add co2 to counter slightly high temps. Don't get me wrong they look great. Fine tuning really makes a big difference sometimes
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i dont know if you knowticed but my therm is hanging right below the light pic # 8 in my newest update
 
capecodkid

capecodkid

Active Member
***New pics on wednesday***
I will be switching over to 12/12 on the 12th. That will be the 5 weeks veg. They will finish in the middle of january im so syked. Every thing seems to be going well. I got the mites under control wich is cool. It seems that i had a little ph fluctuation (i think) and the bottom leaves look funny(pics wed). I will be giving them a 3/4 dose of nutes this week. I am going to leave out the molassas till flowering starts and i will continue with 1tbls per gallon.

#1....I have already topped the main staulk i was wondering if i can top all the branchs that come off the staulk?
#2....when flowering starts do i count the weeks as soon as i turn the light to 12/12 or as soon as i can tell sex?

Thanks Cape
Keep smokinbongsmilie
 
JonnyBtreed

JonnyBtreed

Well-Known Member
capecodkid said:
***New pics on wednesday***
I will be switching over to 12/12 on the 12th. That will be the 5 weeks veg. They will finish in the middle of january im so syked. Every thing seems to be going well. I got the mites under control wich is cool. It seems that i had a little ph fluctuation (i think) and the bottom leaves look funny(pics wed). I will be giving them a 3/4 dose of nutes this week. I am going to leave out the molassas till flowering starts and i will continue with 1tbls per gallon.

#1....I have already topped the main staulk i was wondering if i can top all the branchs that come off the staulk?
#2....when flowering starts do i count the weeks as soon as i turn the light to 12/12 or as soon as i can tell sex?

Thanks Cape
Keep smokinbongsmilie
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Whats going on man. Glad to hear you got the mites under control, Hope you straightened out the pH thing, As long as you've been working up you full strength should be fine. I'd drop the molasses completely if possible. And just go to a bulking flowering product. Koolbloom or something like that.

#1 - You can, just be sure to cut above another growth point , and let them veg for another couple weeks after to let the new growth settle in before flowering.
#2 from the time flowering sites start. You'll see
 
capecodkid

capecodkid

Active Member
JonnyBtreed said:
Whats going on man. Glad to hear you got the mites under control, Hope you straightened out the pH thing, As long as you've been working up you full strength should be fine. I'd drop the molasses completely if possible. And just go to a bulking flowering product. Koolbloom or something like that.

#1 - You can, just be sure to cut above another growth point , and let them veg for another couple weeks after to let the new growth settle in before flowering.
#2 from the time flowering sites start. You'll see
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i have tiger bloom and big bloom for the flowering process. I probly will get rid of the molassas. Iam probly going to top all the branchs and that will leave about 2 weeks till i want to switch to 12/12. I think it might be the molassas that made the leaves look strang they dont look burnt they kinda look soggy and they are the shape of conoes with some light green spots(pics wed). It was the first time i applied it last week. im gonna stop the molassas and make sure the ph is between 6.2 and 6.8. im pretty sure the problem will be fixed if i can maintain.

What should the ph of the runoff be???its at about 5.8 is this ok?
Thanks Cape
Keep smokin bongsmilie
 
raiderman

raiderman

Well-Known Member
plants look great,, yu mite want to let them dry out a bit more before each watering to rid curled under leaves,,keep it up .rdr.
 
raiderman

raiderman

Well-Known Member
JonnyBtreed said:
yeah 5.8 is alright, but in soil you want it up more around 6.2 - 6.5
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true,, my RO water comes out 6.5 wich activates nutes real well especially seedling and cloning nutes.perfect water.i use 40% perilite in ocean forest ,to put lots of oxygen to the roots to keep leaves upright and gro fast.
 
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