One nutrient solution for entire crop cycle?

gloombird

Member
I am planning to use a 7-9-5 for the duration. It has all the micros too. But the more I read from experienced horticulturalists, I see high N and zero P for veg, then N is cut to 0 for flowering and at the same time P is raised. (K starts low, and is increased modestly.)

Question: If I were to rethink this and use GH Floramicro for vegetative and Florabloom for the reproductive phase, do I first drain the tank of the Floramicro, or just add the Florabloom to the existing tank mix? Or do I add them both at the beginning?

Apologies if this has been answered in a previous thread. I'm relatively new to hydro, but can grow anything in solid media!
 

trophy1

Well-Known Member
I am planning to use a 7-9-5 for the duration. It has all the micros too. But the more I read from experienced horticulturalists, I see high N and zero P for veg, then N is cut to 0 for flowering and at the same time P is raised. (K starts low, and is increased modestly.)

Question: If I were to rethink this and use GH Floramicro for vegetative and Florabloom for the reproductive phase, do I first drain the tank of the Floramicro, or just add the Florabloom to the existing tank mix? Or do I add them both at the beginning?

Apologies if this has been answered in a previous thread. I'm relatively new to hydro, but can grow anything in solid media!
Do a search "Lucas formula", I believe it suggests just what you are contemplating, which is running micro and bloom nutes for the whole grow.
 

fatman7574

New Member
I am planning to use a 7-9-5 for the duration. It has all the micros too. But the more I read from experienced horticulturalists, I see high N and zero P for veg, then N is cut to 0 for flowering and at the same time P is raised. (K starts low, and is increased modestly.)

Question: If I were to rethink this and use GH Floramicro for vegetative and Florabloom for the reproductive phase, do I first drain the tank of the Floramicro, or just add the Florabloom to the existing tank mix? Or do I add them both at the beginning?

Apologies if this has been answered in a previous thread. I'm relatively new to hydro, but can grow anything in solid media!
The GH used for the Lucas method is 5-10-10 but you do ot need that much potash. The extra nitrogen of the 7-9-5 will do no harm. It might mean a bit of extra leaf matter to trim off when manicuring your buds. It is well within acceptable ratio ranges though.
 
I

Illegal Smile

Guest
And yes, you should change the res when changing nutes. I think most here change the res weekly.
 

smppro

Well-Known Member
Actually you do want more potassium in flower actually higher than phosphorus, and more nitrogen late in flower just means more green in your leaves which you dont want.
 

EverythingHydro.com

Active Member
I just wanted to add something here.

If you do not use nitrogen during flowering you're plants will have serious health issues. Many new growers think N = Veg only. This is not true.

Secondly, plants don't grow buds during 12/12 because of P. P only improves the results of flowing. Flowering is a result of the lack of light.

In direct answer to your question, I would keep the nitrogen formula for about 10-14 days into flowering. Then change your container to equal parts Veg formula and Flowering formula. Finally, towards the final stretch go to a full Flowering formula for the duration.

You'll have nice and healthy plants that at the end.

I hope this helps. In the mean time, if I could get a little help from you guys...

-Cmysig
https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/287800-100-posts-100-days.html
 

NavySupra

Active Member
I bought a bunch of nutes... i don't know what they are really... but i put a teaspoon of each into a 4L jug, and mix that shit up nicely and run it both veg and flower and my plants are super happy. I don't know my PH or my PPM, but I have very healthy plants.
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
Actually you do want more potassium in flower actually higher than phosphorus, and more nitrogen late in flower just means more green in your leaves which you dont want.
i keep my N level ALMOST just as high in flowering as in veg..green healthy leaves means more buds..it works for me
 

fatman7574

New Member
I just wanted to add something here.

If you do not use nitrogen during flowering you're plants will have serious health issues. Many new growers think N = Veg only. This is not true.

Secondly, plants don't grow buds during 12/12 because of P. P only improves the results of flowing. Flowering is a result of the lack of light.

In direct answer to your question, I would keep the nitrogen formula for about 10-14 days into flowering. Then change your container to equal parts Veg formula and Flowering formula. Finally, towards the final stretch go to a full Flowering formula for the duration.

You'll have nice and healthy plants that at the end.

I hope this helps. In the mean time, if I could get a little help from you guys...

-Cmysig
[URL]https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/287800-100-posts-100-days.html[/URL]
I mainly based my prevoius answer on the thread title which placed a requirement for "One nutrient solution for entire crop cycle?" Given that requirement his originakl choice aws about as good as just using micro and a choice of either grow or bloom not a changing mix and match of choices. ie one solution for the entire cycle.

I can agree with what you have said but add in always use the micro whether it be with Grow, Bloom or a combo of both. I assume you meant that also but I think stating it clearly is important with newbies.

While some may claim the phosphorus level is too high that is clearly proven wrong by the fact that there are many growers who still show signs of phosphorus defiency even with 1 part micro and two parts Bloom during budding. There are also many people who experience phosphorus defiency with the use of just micro ang grow when in the vegative part of growth. This is especially a problem with the more efficient systems such as aero grows in chambers and good inert media grows. The better the root systems the larger the problems seem to be.

I think it will become even more obvoius as people migtare away from the poorer grwing systems in embrace more of the aero chamber systems that produce healtier roots and therefore healthier plants etc. Roots laying in low DO water or in water are signs of a poor systems that should be abandoned. You can pierce a sows ears but it still can not be made into a silk purse. Even if you add decorations to the piercing or lots of marketing it is still just a pigs ear.
 
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