Properties of Organic Soil

[BladesOfGrass]

"Marijuana Grower's Guide" Mel Frank

“There is no such thing as the perfect soil for Cannabis. Each variety can grow within a range of soil conditions. For healthy, full growth, marijuana prefers a medium with good drainage, high in available nutrients, and near a neutral pH (7.0). These conditions result from a complex set of physical, chemical and biological factors. We will refer to them simply as: texture, nutrients, pH.”

“The texture of the medium determines its water-holding and draining properties.”

“Nutrients are essential mineral necessary for plant growth. The major nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which correspond to the three number, in that order, that appear on fertilizer and manure packages, and that give the percentage of each nutrient in the mix.”

“Many growers prefer to enrich their soil by adding sterilized manures, composts, or humus. All of these provide a good balance of the three major nutrients. They also retain water in their fiber. In excess they cause drainage problems, make the medium too acidic, and attract insects and other pests.”

“A good mixture is one part compost or manure to five to eight parts of soil medium. In large pots (four or five gallons), these mixtures might provide all the nutrients the plant will ever need.”

 

[BladesOfGrass]

Examples of Organic Fertilizers

Nitrogen – Blood Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Corn Gluten Meal

Phosphorus – Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Bat Guano

Potassium – Kelp Meal, Greensand

So in essence what Mel Frank is talking about is conditioning the soil with nutrients and trace elements. (Trace elements are food for beneficial bacteria) But he was also talking about how vital the texture and ph properties are. It’s imperative that you have good drainage and a balanced pH or the nutrients in your soil won’t make it up to the plant.

It’s very possible though to provide all the nutrients the plant will ever need in the soil without ever adding anything else.

 

[BladesOfGrass]

"Marijuana Grower's Guide" Mel Frank

“There are about 15 elements known to be essential to plant life. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are absorbed in the air and water. The remaining 12 elements are absorbed primarily from the soil.”

“The elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are considered major nutrients.”

“Three other elements – calcium, sulfur, magnesium are called secondary nutrients. Plants require less of these nutrients, and most cultivable soils contain adequate amounts for good growth.”

“Six remaining elements are called trace elements or micronutrients. As their name implies, they are needed in very small amounts.”

 

[BladesOfGrass]

“The trace elements (Fe, Mn, Mb, B, Cu, Zn) are particularly important in the coenzymes and catalysts of the plant’s biochemistry. Many life processes, particularly the synthesis and degradation of molecules, energy transfer, and transport of compounds within the plant, depend on trace elements. Trace elements are not used in large quantities to spur growth, but are necessary in minute amounts for normal growth. Indoor soils rarely require an addition of trace elements.”

 

[BladesOfGrass]

This is why it’s important to differentiate between indoor and outdoor potting mixes; the obvious factor being environmental conditions. Going back to what Mel Frank said about the texture and pH properties of soil both being affected by adding organic elements. The pH can be corrected by adjusting the acidity of the soil. This can be done by adding Dolomite. As for the texture it will have to be corrected by observation.

So the trick is for indoor growing is finding the right amount of ingredients to mix together so that it can provide all the nutrients your plant will need for its growth cycle. That means just watering it with R/O water at 6.0-6.5 pH. Thus utilizing the organic properties of soil.

 

[winstonoboogie]

This is why it’s important to differentiate between indoor and outdoor potting mixes; the obvious factor being environmental conditions. Going back to what Mel Frank said about the texture and pH properties of soil both being affected by adding organic elements. The pH can be corrected by adjusting the acidity of the soil. This can be done by adding Dolomite. As for the texture it will have to be corrected by observation.

So the trick is for indoor growing is finding the right amount of ingredients to mix together so that it can provide all the nutrients your plant will need for its growth cycle. That means just watering it with R/O water at 6.0-6.5 pH. Thus utilizing the organic properties of soil.

but what is the best way to water the organic? manually 1 pot at a time and with such drainage how often?, on a table that floods 4 times a day for 45 mins at a time or a continuous drip system or a timed top spray system,??? I'm so confused, a former hydro hobbyist trying to convert to organic supersoils but rather unhappy with the results so far, any thoughts

 

[BladesOfGrass]

4 to 5 gallon pots are probably only going to be watered once a week and hydro applications wouldn’t really work, check in your area to see if you can find a good indoor or container potting mix

 

[BladesOfGrass]

Mel say’s 1 part compost to 8 parts soil. You could make compost tea and feed every other watering. But the idea is provide all the nutrition the plant will need for the entire cycle in just the soil. Remember this for indoor growing where a plants cycle is only about 3 to 4 months.

My trouble is finding a good base soil and cooking up good compost that isn’t too hot for the plants. Organic soil is the best. Don’t want any chemicals or extracts.

 

[BladesOfGrass]

Soma from Soma seeds also has a book entitled, “Organic Marijuana, Soma Style.” I would highly recommend this book as well. Soma has been growing dank organic bud for over a decade.

See when it comes down to it besides your lights and ventilation nutrients and soil shouldn’t cost that much. However companies and people especially in High Times want you to spend hundreds of dollars on overpriced hydro equipment and nutrients that you’ll never use. That’s why I personally will never buy another High Times magazine; it’s just another marketing gimmick.

 

[Nute]

hey these are some good posts, so does everyone agree that you should water your plants with r/o water with a ph of 6.5 and not needing to add nutrients later?

 

[T.H.Cammo]

hey these are some good posts, so does everyone agree that you should water your plants with r/o water with a ph of 6.5 and not needing to add nutrients later?

Well - - - something like that! My philosophy is to grow in an "Organic Soil" that is fairly balanced (about equal numbers for N-P-K), but a little on the "Lightwieght" side. I use this "Semi-weakish" soil mix with every repotting all the way throughout the grow.

During the veg stage I spike the "N" a little, with some Alaska regular (5-1-1) fish emulsion and "Mexican" (high N) Bat Guano.

During the flower stage I spike the "P&K" a little, with some Alaska "Mor Bloom" (0-10-10) fish emulsion and "Indonesian" (high P) Bat Guano.

Very simple, very organic and very cheap!

 

[Mburton15]

Well - - - something like that! My philosophy is to grow in an "Organic Soil" that is fairly balanced (about equal numbers for N-P-K), but a little on the "Lightwieght" side. I use this "Semi-weakish" soil mix with every repotting all the way throughout the grow.

During the veg stage I spike the "N" a little, with some Alaska regular (5-1-1) fish emulsion and "Mexican" (high N) Bat Guano.

During the flower stage I spike the "P&K" a little, with some Alaska "Mor Bloom" (0-10-10) fish emulsion and "Indonesian" (high P) Bat Guano.

Very simple, very organic and very cheap!

are you entering these into the soil by means of a tea? How often do you give these to the plants?

 

[plaguedog]

hey these are some good posts, so does everyone agree that you should water your plants with r/o water with a ph of 6.5 and not needing to add nutrients later?

With a truly good organic starter soil, ph should never be a problem, ever. R/O water is great but you must have Dolomite lime or another source of Ca and Mg because you are stripping exactly that from the water source. People like to say the Dolomite lime to help buffer the PH but that is more of the job of the humates from the EWC/compost in the mix. The dolomite is also there because it provides a great source of Ca and more important Mg.

 

[max420thc]

very good post . i dont want to jack any ones thread but sub cool has a thread on soil 101 in organics. there are some other good soil mixtures. did you know if you went with complete organics you wouldnt have to purchase soil hardly again. just some additives .alot of good reading for hours on end.

 

[bong it]

some concentrated organic ferts will build up salts in your pot.

less is more when growing weed anyway!!!!!! its a weed nothing special about it when it comes to growing tleast.

i find that a huge pot helps with organics cuz u can just fert like 2 time tottal, if your soil is good and rich with organic mattar.
"root stimulators" worx great with a huge pot, its organic but will leave a little salt behind and then my roots where bigger then my plant so u can amagine what the flowers look like.

plant power= sun water food sleep just like u and me except she like your air and u like hers. co2 h2o.

so u make it grow big root system big leave system and then flower the damn bitch if its not a male.

 

[jjfoo]

plant power= sun water food sleep just like u and me except she like your air and u like hers. co2 h2o.

what do you mean by food sun light is how they make food. Plants photosynthesis their food. Stuff like NPK are not energy sources.

Like you can't live on vitamins alone, you need sugar to run your brain.

 

[MrBaker]

what do you mean by food sun light is how they make food. Plants photosynthesis their food. Stuff like NPK are not energy sources.

Like you can't live on vitamins alone, you need sugar to run your brain.

You're splitting hairs, even if you are correct. Yes, plants synthesize their own carbohydrates. However, since most people here have not had courses in plant phys, and/or haven't read up on how plants work we just use the term "food" in an analogous sense because we're "feeding" plants NPK. After all, we aren't feeding out plants sugar. The sugar is for the micro-fauna.

I do like how you bring attention to scientific fact though

 

[jjfoo]

However, since most people here have not had courses in plant phys, and/or haven't read up on how plants work we just use the term "food" in an analogous sense because we're "feeding" plants NPK.

shouldn't this be the goal not something to shy away from? I think knowing how plants work is key to being a productive gardener. I was under the impression that many people have read up on how plants work and are seeking to continue learning more about this very topic.

 

[plaguedog]

Well I don't agree. I have grown plenty of crops with never using a PH pen/meter in my life.