Mosquito Dunks/Azamax/Chlorine

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phudson

Member
I posted a similar question in the plant problem section but nobody answered. Anyone who can help out please do, it would be greatly appreciated. I am having a thrip problem. After talking to "Your Grandfather", who was very helpful, I purchased Azamax. I also decided to purchase mosquito dunks as an economical option to deal with thrips in soil. The plan is to foliar feed with Azamax and root drench with the water treated with the mosquito dunks. My question is two fold:

1) How long should I submerge the mosquito dunks before the bacteria is active enough to eat the thrip larvae in the soil? Is 48 hours long enough, or should I wait longer, and if so how long?

2) I know that chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria. I have allowed a number of barrels of water to sit for 3-4 days to let the chlorine burn off. I feel that that is enough time, but how long is ideal. I have heard that 2 days is acceptable, but if anyone has any specifics that would be great.

Anyone who can help, thank you in advance you are a life saver. I plan on reporting back with my results so that others who face the same challenges will have a valuable resource in their fight against these nasty little bastards. They are easily as devastating as spider mites so beware! Thanks in advance!
 
i81two

i81two

Well-Known Member
I had Fungus Gnats and Azamax used as a drench nuked all those bastards. Did not hurt my girls one bit. I even used it full strength. Then i follow up with nematodes and lady bugs or whatever prays on ur particular bug.
 
P

phudson

Member
i81two said:
I had Fungus Gnats and Azamax used as a drench nuked all those bastards. Did not hurt my girls one bit. I even used it full strength. Then i follow up with nematodes and lady bugs or whatever prays on ur particular bug.
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I actually foliar sprayed with azamax a few days ago and the thrip activity has gone down quite a bit. I will foliar spray again next week. I am using the mosquito dunks for the soil drench because it is way too much money to use azamax as I have quite a few to do. Glad to hear you had good results with the product. Do you have a specific pest management regimen that you follow on a regular basis? I am looking to design one so that I never see bugs for the full cycle.
 
O

overmyhead

Well-Known Member
phudson said:
I actually foliar sprayed with azamax a few days ago and the thrip activity has gone down quite a bit. I will foliar spray again next week. I am using the mosquito dunks for the soil drench because it is way too much money to use azamax as I have quite a few to do. Glad to hear you had good results with the product. Do you have a specific pest management regimen that you follow on a regular basis? I am looking to design one so that I never see bugs for the full cycle.
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do you think the mosquito dunks are working for the baby thrips in the soil?
 
P

phudson

Member
overmyhead said:
do you think the mosquito dunks are working for the baby thrips in the soil?
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Yes they have been effective. I have seen a drastic reduction in the leaf damage that I now know was coming from thrips in the soil. Overall, the mosquito dunks are a very cost effective way to deal with larvae in the soil. I am also going to begin watering neem oil into the soil so that it goes systemic.
 
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NegroNinja

Active Member
phudson said:
Do you have a specific pest management regimen that you follow on a regular basis? I am looking to design one so that I never see bugs for the full cycle.
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I don't know if you ever found a solution or not for a whole cycle preventative, but I can tell you what I use and I NEVER see bugs. Hopefully I didn't just jinx myself. I buy 2 Hot Shot No Pest Strips, (some argue these aren't safe and the label does say not to have around humans or dogs in confined spaces, however I have used them only in veg a few times with no problems). I use 2 for a 4x4x6 grow tent. I only put them out in the dark cycle. I also turn off my exhaust fan that runs through my air cooled hood, and open the tent somewhat so humidity doesn't soar. When you wake up in he morning just put them in a ziplock freezer bag to contain the chemicals and keep them fresh. I also water with mosquito dunks every watering through veg and almost every watering through flower. I top dress the soil with diatomaceous earth, food grade. At the onset of flower, I spray 2 foliar applications of azamax, one at the start of flower, and once gain a week or so later. I avoid foliar after 2 weeks of flower or so. I tried neem once, but from what I hear it has to be cold pressed and mine wasn't, and it leaves a residue even though I used a wetting agent. I prefer azamax although it's slightly more expensive. Anyway, the pest strips are less than $10 a piece and spider mites don't stand a fucking chance, the Diatomaceous Earth is all natural and will take care of any crawlies like ants or the like that the pest strips don't, and the azamax I just added to my regimen to round it out. The pest strips are the only non organic I put in my garden, however I swear by them. I've read tons of posts where people say that spider mites are inevitable, or they tried everything and all they can do is manage them, but I have never, and I mean NEVER, seen a spider mite one. *knock on wood.
 
FoxMan

FoxMan

Member
phudson said:
I posted a similar question in the plant problem section but nobody answered. Anyone who can help out please do, it would be greatly appreciated. I am having a thrip problem. After talking to "Your Grandfather", who was very helpful, I purchased Azamax. I also decided to purchase mosquito dunks as an economical option to deal with thrips in soil. The plan is to foliar feed with Azamax and root drench with the water treated with the mosquito dunks. My question is two fold:

1) How long should I submerge the mosquito dunks before the bacteria is active enough to eat the thrip larvae in the soil? Is 48 hours long enough, or should I wait longer, and if so how long?

2) I know that chlorine will kill the beneficial bacteria. I have allowed a number of barrels of water to sit for 3-4 days to let the chlorine burn off. I feel that that is enough time, but how long is ideal. I have heard that 2 days is acceptable, but if anyone has any specifics that would be great.

Anyone who can help, thank you in advance you are a life saver. I plan on reporting back with my results so that others who face the same challenges will have a valuable resource in their fight against these nasty little bastards. They are easily as devastating as spider mites so beware! Thanks in advance!
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Here you go:
I use Mosquito Dunks from Veg up to 4 weeks to Bud Nip. I use Aza Max on seedlings if a few show up. I stop Azmax every 7 days and 4 weeks to Bud Nip. Soak the Dunk long is all good squeeze even. Break in 1/2 or 1/4's 1 Dunk per 5 gallons at food time with food.

In Canada they have Green Sheen a lighter 3x application for results Vs Azamax. I dont wanna smoke called: "Blue Flame" from chemicals and pesticide so you cant keep hitting them, be precise, direct and get out..
 
A

Acadien

New Member
Hello everyone.....

For the last decade I have tried many attempts at eradicating SPIDER MITES, with very limited success, I have tried most "if not all" of the products that are mentioned in this page, Azmax, Neem Oil, etc, etc, etc, I OWN a hydroponic store, and know many people, and wholesale from many companies in the industry that TRY to get spider mites under control.

Now I would like you to do yourself a favor and stop reading on how to control spider mites, turn to a product called MEGA WASH "frequency altered water" product, and it is sold in Canada. I had this stuff shelved in my store for over 6 months "I had never used it" and my rep kept nagging me to use their product, he know I had ongoing spider mite issues that I was unable to eradicate. On one of his visits he took off a 4 liter jug of this stuff and put it up on the counter and advised me that he was crediting it to me and to please to a simple test to view the outcome. To make a long story short, I have since been selling out of this stuff, and have selves full of other bug products that I will end up tossing out as nothing else is selling in my area. MegaWash WILL kill the spider mites and KILL the eggs once contacted, MegaWash is a contact killer "meaning that it has to touch the bug to kill it"

Note: Bugs are not mentioned on this product therefore no bulls**t governmental special permit control is put in place in order to monetize it any further.
And this product is organic, no gloves masks and or controls need to be put in place in order to use it, the only recommendation I have is that should you use a fogger, it will use about 1/3 of the product you will be using should you just be using a simple sprayer.

For you non-believers, just do a simple test while using it. Wrap a piece of poly "cone shaped in order to capture the slaughter" under your most infected plant, spray the plant completely "in the dark" green light only. 24 hrs later grab the plant 1/3 up the stalk and shake it for a bit and then carefully remove the poly from the underside of the plant without spilling it's contents, put it up on a table and view under a magnifying glass, I rest my case!!!

As far as the eggs still stuck on the underside of the leaves, check the out in 2 to 3 days and you will see that they are now turning brown and will NOT hatch... ERADICATION AT IT'S BEST no other product needed.

Guy
mmad.ca

Note for admin" feel free to remove my link of it is not allowed, but please leave the article to help those that are being fooled by useless or poor quality promoted products!
 
DblBrryInvestments

DblBrryInvestments

Well-Known Member
NaturalFarmer said:
For people who have larger grows, I would highly recommend a product called MicroBElift BMC (Biologic Mosquito Control). The amount of BTi is concentrated and the bottle will last you for years instead of months. The bottle I have treats 5000 sq ft of surface area vs 800 sq ft in a pack of dunks.
$15.....Just about the same as the dunks.

https://www.microbelift.com/products/birdbath-and-fountain/mosquito-control/
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That looks like some great stuff! Surprised I've never seen it mentioned anywhere, thanks.
 
Yodaweed

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
that stuff works like a bandaid on a bullet wound. I'd recommend using nematodes, they will seek and destroy the lavae unlike azamax and dunks which work but not very well in soil (too many places to hide).
 
NaturalFarmer

NaturalFarmer

Well-Known Member
BTi is NOT a band aid. Kill the larvae and you kill the life cycle.
Store bought EWCs contains larvae guaranteed. If you top dress, you need to reapply BTi.
 
A

Acadien

New Member
If your problem is SPIDER MITES, stop using band-aids / perpetual money makers used to keep bugs under control, trust me and use MegaWash so you can instantly eradicate / instantly resolve your problem and move on to another thread to fix other issues!
The mite issue is a simple fix.

FACT: Spider mites are a thing of the past, be smart stop reading promotional articles and try this product so you can move on.............. blip " keep it simple ;} "

Guy
mmad.ca
 
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