dude i appreciate the disagreement but before commenting you should really do your research.yes to get the best yeild you have to look at a lot of factors but to say something so ignorant as lumens mean nothing to plant im in stitches lol. lumens matter to plants a hell of a lot when it comes to flowering the more lumens the bigger the buds. OK if lumen's are not the main factor in yield do yourself a grow of more than 3 plants under a 125w cfl see how that goes for you.Ultimately MJ wants to be free the plants want space and do not want to touch each other (doing so causes minor stress) rule of thumb is 1 and 1/2 feet between plants and it is not lumens that matter (in fact lumens mean absolutely nothing to the plants) it is the sum of all parts that make a great grow with good yields, You will always get higher yields from a garden that is dialed in properly with ZERO stress to the plants
ROFLMAO,,,Dude you just made my day!!!!!dude i appreciate the disagreement but before commenting you should really do your research.yes to get the best yeild you have to look at a lot of factors but to say something so ignorant as lumens mean nothing to plant im in stitches lol. lumens matter to plants a hell of a lot when it comes to flowering the more lumens the bigger the buds. OK if lumen's are not the main factor in yield do yourself a grow of more than 3 plants under a 125w cfl see how that goes for you.
you are so far off the mark its funny.the whole idea of using light is to simulate the lumen output of the sun as close as you can otherwise what the fck are we all spending money on lights for lol
viva la bubbloution
Lumens More than anything besides maybe water is the most important thing to plants in general.
Im no Know it all better than 90 % or anything as distinguished as that but i do know last year i had two plants cut from the same mom, put out on the same day, fed the exact same and endured the same weather.
One plant was partially blocked by a tree for a couple hours out of the day the other wasnt. I got nearly an ounce more out of the one that was in the sun all day.
ANother thing was once i added a fourth light to my bubbleponics system [2500 lumens] i cut my veg time by a week cuz they were outgroing the tent in 8 weeks.
My experience has always been the more lumens, the happier the plants are. which is why outdoor plants grow so much taller usually.
If lumens dont matter, then im gonna buy that cheap 1000 lumen bulb and grow me 50 plants this year! woo hoo! NOT!
It was a dumb statement and i wish there was a subtract rep button for people like this.
I also have a really good ditty on PAR watts in my blog (Riddleme's Nuggets sig link)There are 3 considerations in choosing lamps for plants, vs. lighting for the human eye: PAR, PPFD, and the duration of both. Let me explain. PAR (photosynthetically active radiation) are the violet, blue, and red wavelengths needed by the "higher" plants that most of us grow. These wavelengths appear dim our eyes even at high wattage or lumens, so "bright" lamps are an eye thing irrelevant to plants. The amount of the colours/wavelengths ROYGBIV in a lamps is revealed by its "spectral power distribution" graph (SPD). The company who makes the lamps will often fax the SPD graph to you if you cannot find it on the Internet. I've got piles of them. By keying in on your browser, "spectral power distribution of sylvania fluorescent lamps" you can see examples of what I'm talking about.
Then I compare these lamp graphs to the "absorption spectra" of plant pigments, namely chlorophyll a, chlorophyll b, and the carotenoids - particularly beta-carotene. Plant pigments will either reflect off the wavelengths that your lamps provide or will absorb them for photosynthesis. They reflect off most of the green, yellow-green, yellow, and yellow-orange wavelengths that just so happen to appear as bright to human eyes. Absorption spectra graphs reveal that violet, blue, and red (PAR) are what are needed for photosynthesis, and CRI of lamps don't indicate what colour wavelengths are in a specific tube. "Cool white" and "warm whiate" terminology is equally useless! Light intensity in watts or lumens do not refer to how much PAR is available to a plant, and is also irrelevant to how much PPFD (explained next) exists.
The measurement of how many usable photosynthetic wavelengths actually reaching the leaves (its density) is called PPFD, or photosynthetic photon flux density. This is about usable photons. And if the PPFD is not enough in your lamps when the PAR is relatively good, many plants can make up their need for a daily amount of carbohydrate production just by settin the light timer to remain on another 2-3 hours.
This can be a lot to digest, so I'm going to stop here. Again, feel free to let me know what you can't grasp.
Respectfully, John_Z.