how can I hide the smoke of the burning end of a joint when I'm not smoking it? I have a sploof, but while I'm blowin into the sploof, how would I hide the smoke of the burning end?
thanks in advance!
Ok, this technique is one used by many in the military... it normally applies to cigarettes, but can work for a joint as well... it is known as a smoke box.
Basically, one takes some sort of 'box' or case, something that can breathe, and has one end that slides off/on is great. In the army we often used our M16/M4 magazines. now the following describes using such an item. Now this will GREATLY reduce smoke signature, and eliminate 98% of light signature (IR and visible light spectrum). It also slow burning down when not being hit, as fresh oxygen only is applied when taking a hit. What we would do is slide open the bottom of an empty magazine, just enough to stick a cig inside. We would then light the cig inside our coats, and immediately stick it into the opening, with the filter sticking out, and slide the lid shut enough to hold the cig in place. You then can take a puff, without having to worry about a bright glowing burning ember, or a big stream of smoke coming up. There will always be smoke when you burn any kind of vegetation, but in a box like device, most of the smoke will be self contained, and taken in on every hit. Keep in mind though, that in the box, if not regularly hit, it can easily burn itself out, especially with a tight packed joint or cig. I would highly suggest using a filter tip (rolled up piece of paper/thin paperboard) if you try this method. As an alternative to those of us who value our AR15 type magazines, (or AK, HK91, FAL, etc...) you can use many other 'boxes' to make such a device, but would mention to stay away from plastic, rubber, combustable metals, etc. One can easily make such a device out of a soda can, or even a soda bottle (of big enough size) by simple drilling a hole in the cap just big enough for the tip to stick through (firmly.. again filter tips people!!!) and having a couple very small holes on the bottom end to allow just enough air in. One could even put the hole on the cap, and make a simple one way valve (only letting air in) by drilling a series of 1/32" holes, a 3x3 grid works well. Cover the grid with a piece of electrical tape with only two ends sticky, the center area over the holes, and to the other two sides not sticky (cover with another piece of E tape) thus air will easily be allowed in, but won't spill out so easily. This should contain most of the smoke, just make sure you keep the burning end at least 2" away from all plastic though... which would mean you need to have a nice filter tip setup long enough to pass below the neck of the bottle. I would not use milk or water jugs, only two liter soda bottles, but I prefer to use metal for such 'smoke boxes' as the lower worry of liberating toxic compounds. Tin cans are prob the best household item for this. For best results using a tin can, some kind of liquid works best, and of course the bigger the can the better. The trick to using a tin(ned) can (the term tin can gets it's name from the 'tin' used to seal the can seam.... though most modern cans are made of a low steel allow, and sealed using contact seam welds in one big continuous tube... and lined with plastic), emptying the contents completely. Rinse with hot water several times, and even use soap/water once confident everything is out. Once washed, spray a generous amount of EASY OFF inside the can. This is to dissolve the liner in the can. Roll the can around to evenly spread the lye form the easy off around. Then rinse many times, then boil the can, ensuring there is no lining sludge left inside. After boiling, was the can a final time. Your can should only have two small holes in it (to drain contents... I generally use family size generic chicken broth cans myself) from where you used a can piercing opener for the primary opening and a small one for an air vent. When piercing the can, try to make the smallest holes possible. Next, take the bigger of the two holes, and widen it as much as you need to, to be able to slip a lit joint inside. When rolling a J for htis, best to use a roller for uniform thickness. I also use filter tips (I use 2/3 the width of a 8.5x11" sheet of paper, about the width of a cig filter, fold the first portion in a \/\/\/ shape before rolling it up, I also will use a piece of rolled up paper to seal/hold the joint in place. the second hole provides an air inlet. Holding the can upside down (joint lit end up) will slow burning of the joint, and can cause it to burn out. Some smoke will come out, however like I mentioned before, it will be greatly reduced. The only downside to such 'smoke boxes' is that they are only good when hit on regularly, lest the article inside choke itself out. the basic principles for building your own are all the same. I have even seen purpose built wooden boxes that had filters built into it to keep article's lit, and all that, however, why spend $50+ on something you can build for about free? one could always create an extra hole if the balance of smoke to keeping lit must be altered, though like I said, it will realease more smoke... it all comes dow to a trade off really. But it is not something difficult, in context or concept... basically, you want a heat resistant container, that has limited breathing ability (ie one way in, one way out... the out being the filter tip) and will contain the smoke, while preventing the article from burning away into nothingness. Smoking a cigarette in such a manner makes it last from 25%-50% longer, and gives you several extra drags/hits... so i can only imagine it doing the same for weed. Also, be careful what you use as material to make the box, as some items may release toxic compounds, or irritants, if heated/contacted by the burning tip. Hell, using the magazines (which were practically always used to some extent) is not a good idea, due to the lead, and mercury based coumpounds within firearm magazines (especially direct gas operated mechanisms) always made the smoke taste like/smell like shooting... that nitrogenous rich smell from the nitrocellulose and other nitrogen rich highly combustible materials... which is why I recommend using soup cans, as they are designed to in general, be neutral to the contents, and take heating, though I recommend washing out hte liner, though it is not necessary... just helps me sleep better at night.