Full House featuring Uncle Joey. 1200 Watts & 7 strains(Satori, C99xDC, HazexSkunk...
- Thread starter DaveCoulier
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DaveCoulier
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Haha. It sure does look like it. I did nothing more than water it, and four days later it was dead. The other two plants were in better shape, but they were in a bit more shaded location. I think the sun baked the roots, and the plant could no longer uptake water, and it just died. My other two plants were chopped early as they were showing advanced signs of water stress, and I wasn't gonna risk nothing for all my time.
Thankfully these plants started flowering in early-mid july, so I at least got something out of them.
Next year, Ill pass on outdoors unless I can do it in my own backyard.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
I thought I would show some pics of my Skunk Haze E clone. Ive been neglecting my plants lately, but thankfully this lady still looks great after a month in her 1 gallon root pouch. Likely because she's not flowering heavily yet, and really hasn't ramped up her nutrient uptake.
Ive only fed her one light feeding of GO's veg food in the last month. She and other ladies did get a light feeding of Fox Farms Grow Big last night as I wanted them to get something fast acting. Ill go back to organic nutes from here on out as long as I can actually remember to feed them each week.
She's been flowering for just a little over a month. Ill start at the beginning and go up until last night.
Ive only fed her one light feeding of GO's veg food in the last month. She and other ladies did get a light feeding of Fox Farms Grow Big last night as I wanted them to get something fast acting. Ill go back to organic nutes from here on out as long as I can actually remember to feed them each week.
She's been flowering for just a little over a month. Ill start at the beginning and go up until last night.
I'll have to catch up oon your grow, especially interested in the Satori as it sounds perfect fopr my wifes issues, its like they were describing her exactly, they'd rather pump her full of tranqs and crap! that one a couple of posts back really was awesome, 4 days and totally dried up? jeez, live in the desert? 
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
It sure does feel like a desert here. Its been high 80's or 90's every single day. Hottest summer Ive ever had to endure. Some dumb ass on the radio today said, "Its gonna be a great day today. 88 degrees. Are you kidding me? Thats an awful day..Gee Ive only had one million days in a row of 85+, lets just throw another one on, and call it a great day.I'll have to catch up oon your grow, especially interested in the Satori as it sounds perfect fopr my wifes issues, its like they were describing her exactly, they'd rather pump her full of tranqs and crap! that one a couple of posts back really was awesome, 4 days and totally dried up? jeez, live in the desert?
Have fun catching up on the grow, but be warned, there are alot of failures in it. Anything that could go wrong pretty much does. Ive got a Satori clone thats been flowering for..45 days I think? Its probably got another 45, but at least Ill get to sample her again when she's fully matured. Ill do another smoke report on her in 2-2.5 months for ya. But I dont think you could go wrong with it. Its Mandalas flagship strain, and its hard to find anyone say anything bad about it
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Yeah, there is a long flower pheno of Satori that typically will take 80-90 days. I dont think its that common though. Just my luck, my one lady falls into that category.wow, 12-13 weeks flowering for the satori? thatll teach you patience if nothing else. Failures keep you humble, god knows I am very humble in my first gro
I definitely think I bit off more than I could chew. Hopefully, Ill have everything running more smoothly on the next grow/crop. I know Ive made enough mistakes, to learn from this time around haha.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Ive got lots of updates, but Im too high to get to it. I threw a few pics in Riddlemes thread of a clone. Tomorrow Ill start throwing up some pics n what not.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Im sorry I haven't had any updates in awhile. Ive been a bit burned out. Its hard to do updates after working, then spend a couple hours of time with the ladies, and then finally do updates. I underestimated how much work this many plants are.
Im also ashamed of how poorly Ive cared for my ladies. Ive gotten lazy, and the plants have paid the price. Its hard to want to show pics of plants that have been under-fed, under-watered, and burned up by lights that were too close.
Ive also been smoking alot of Skunk Haze lately; testing out A & D. Its a bit hard to get work done when I smoke a bit too much of them. Ill do a more in depth smoke report later on tonight, after Ive smoked them again.
For now though, Id like to share some pics of my Skunk Haze underneath a 400w MH.
The difference in internodal distance is pretty astounding. Ill never veg another plant under HPS ever again.
Below is Skunk Haze A clone. She's been supercropped, and tied down at the tip to keep her horizontal. The average internodal distance on her and S.Haze D is 1 inch! Some of the nodes are even half an inch in distance. The internodal distance for the seed plant A under HPS on day 1 of flowering was 2.6 inches! What a difference MH makes.
Below is a clone of Skunk Haze D. I could actually do a sog with Skunk Haze D I think. Thats how compact she is. When I flower her, I will leave her as is, with no training, or topping. I want to see if I can get one budsicle from a sativa. This girl has 14-15 nodes of growth. Its a bit hard to count them when they are stacked right on top of each other.
In the future, I'm definitely going to buy a couple of MH bulbs for the first 4 weeks of flowering to help reduce internodal stretching. Hopefully, I will have my new grow room set up, and I can start a new journal with some Mr. Nice Black Widow, and Shit. Anyone interested in seeing a Black Widow journal? This isn't some knock off White Widow. This is the _original_.
Im also ashamed of how poorly Ive cared for my ladies. Ive gotten lazy, and the plants have paid the price. Its hard to want to show pics of plants that have been under-fed, under-watered, and burned up by lights that were too close.
Ive also been smoking alot of Skunk Haze lately; testing out A & D. Its a bit hard to get work done when I smoke a bit too much of them. Ill do a more in depth smoke report later on tonight, after Ive smoked them again.
For now though, Id like to share some pics of my Skunk Haze underneath a 400w MH.
The difference in internodal distance is pretty astounding. Ill never veg another plant under HPS ever again.
Below is Skunk Haze A clone. She's been supercropped, and tied down at the tip to keep her horizontal. The average internodal distance on her and S.Haze D is 1 inch! Some of the nodes are even half an inch in distance. The internodal distance for the seed plant A under HPS on day 1 of flowering was 2.6 inches! What a difference MH makes.
Below is a clone of Skunk Haze D. I could actually do a sog with Skunk Haze D I think. Thats how compact she is. When I flower her, I will leave her as is, with no training, or topping. I want to see if I can get one budsicle from a sativa. This girl has 14-15 nodes of growth. Its a bit hard to count them when they are stacked right on top of each other.
In the future, I'm definitely going to buy a couple of MH bulbs for the first 4 weeks of flowering to help reduce internodal stretching. Hopefully, I will have my new grow room set up, and I can start a new journal with some Mr. Nice Black Widow, and Shit. Anyone interested in seeing a Black Widow journal? This isn't some knock off White Widow. This is the _original_.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Now for some Skunk Haze bud shots. These buds are nothing but foxtails. They are very frosty once you look up close. They have really short trichome stalks, so they dont appear to be very frosty from afar, but upon closer inspection the trichomes are jam packed.
Skunk Haze A yielded 52 grams. Skunk Haze D yielded 39. I thought D could come closer in yield because she was actually branchier after being cropped, but the larger buds of A didn't allow it. The first picture has buds from A & D in it. A is the lower bud. Both buds came from main colas.
Skunk Haze A yielded 52 grams. Skunk Haze D yielded 39. I thought D could come closer in yield because she was actually branchier after being cropped, but the larger buds of A didn't allow it. The first picture has buds from A & D in it. A is the lower bud. Both buds came from main colas.
I hear you on time, and I only have 5 plants after work and the usual daily stuff and checking the plants, it seems like its time to start all over again, the girls all look fine to me though, have you thought about how many you'll do next time? really interested in skunk haze D and how she'll do internode wise during flower. Have you ever counted nodes on your finished plants?
after work and the usual daily stuff and checking the plants, it seems like its time to start all over again, the girls all look fine to me though, have you thought about how many you'll do next time? really interested in skunk haze D and how she'll do internode wise during flower. Have you ever counted nodes on your finished plants?
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
You haven't seen the flower tent.The plant in veg dont look so bad, but the plants in the flower tent are sad looking. They'll make an appearance soon enough though.I hear you on time, and I only have 5 plants
For my next grow, there will be 6 Skunk Haze clones scrogged. It will be my first time trying scrog. Four clones of A, 2 of D, and one clone of each lst'd. I want to see how much each will yield with different training methods. The other tent will likely be Mr. Nice Shit(18 plants or so). I dont have the space to do all the B.Widow as well, even though I want to. Maybe I can squeeze a few of them in.
I haven't counted the nodes in any finished plant, but when E comes down, I will count how many nodes she has. Maybe she grew a bit more after I stopped counting previously.
Im gonna have to push a smoke report of Skunk Haze back. Its hard to come home and do a smoke report after smoking it. It really puts me down, and its hard to get anything done.
Ive got to go out and buy a new timer, and stock up on soil before it gets too late in the year.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Ive been thinking lately about my problems with my grow. I know high temperatures were definitely a problem at one point, but temperatures are finally beginning to cool down and its no longer a problem. I thought the big downturn in my plants health was that the lights were too close, and then I compounded on the problem with under-watering, and under-feeding, but I went back through old pictures and noticed my plants really didn't take a turn for the worse until after I placed the oscillating fan in the tent. I had it turned to the lowest settting, and had it pointed upwards to reduce the amount of wind the plants got, but I think it is what is responsible for the great amount of leaf scorching the plants have.
I have a Skunk haze Clone of E thats directly underneath the light bulb, placed at 16 inches away, and well its foliage looks pretty good. She's starting to show some N deficiency, but aside from that her leaves aren't burned at all from the light. The temperature on the leaf is 78-80 at that distance when measured with an infrared thermometer. This plant has not gotten too much wind due to its placement. I have the fan pointed at an angle towards the wall of the tent, and stopped it from oscillating. Leaf movement was reduced this way, but I still think its been too much, and has been removed for now.
I think what Ive seen mostly to this point may be wind burn. The plants generally behind it, that get only small amounts of wind movement, look the best in terms of leaf scorching. While the plants directly in the path of the wind, got it really bad. All the Skunk Hazes got burned up leafs, as well as my latest clones placed in there.
All this time I was blaming the lights being too close, but I really think its the wind thats done so much damage now.
This has got me reading about boundary layers around the leaves, and how wind affects it, and ultimately affects carbon dioxide uptake, water loss, and heat transfer.
Here are a couple of links I came across while googling. Have fun with the second one if anyone wants to think.
http://employees.csbsju.edu/ssaupe/biol327/Lab/Leaf_Lab/leaf_lab.htm
http://treephys.oxfordjournals.org/content/19/7/435.full.pdf
I have a Skunk haze Clone of E thats directly underneath the light bulb, placed at 16 inches away, and well its foliage looks pretty good. She's starting to show some N deficiency, but aside from that her leaves aren't burned at all from the light. The temperature on the leaf is 78-80 at that distance when measured with an infrared thermometer. This plant has not gotten too much wind due to its placement. I have the fan pointed at an angle towards the wall of the tent, and stopped it from oscillating. Leaf movement was reduced this way, but I still think its been too much, and has been removed for now.
I think what Ive seen mostly to this point may be wind burn. The plants generally behind it, that get only small amounts of wind movement, look the best in terms of leaf scorching. While the plants directly in the path of the wind, got it really bad. All the Skunk Hazes got burned up leafs, as well as my latest clones placed in there.
All this time I was blaming the lights being too close, but I really think its the wind thats done so much damage now.
This has got me reading about boundary layers around the leaves, and how wind affects it, and ultimately affects carbon dioxide uptake, water loss, and heat transfer.
Here are a couple of links I came across while googling. Have fun with the second one if anyone wants to think.
http://employees.csbsju.edu/ssaupe/biol327/Lab/Leaf_Lab/leaf_lab.htm
http://treephys.oxfordjournals.org/content/19/7/435.full.pdf
interesting stuff,Ill have to check it out later this morning,the link you posted in riddles thread about temps really got me thinking. youve got a good eye for catching things, if you want to see sad plants take a look at my ezryders! after reading your post its making me wonder about the exhaust fan I have in there , Ill have to look the back of the plants in the box where the air movement is less,its a learning process and an eye for detail is what will make the diff in the long run.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
I took a quick look at your pics bobhamm, and didn't see anything that would make me think you have wind burn problems. Below is a pic of wind-burned plants. Try to avoid this..
On a side note, Im pretty stoked to have gotten the last pack of Afropips Durban Poison & Swazi Red from www.vu-du.com Thats 20 Durban Poison seeds now. Woot.
Im getting pretty good at snagging the last of his landrace seeds. Unfortunately, he is closing up shop. Now, I just have to get his Malawi Gold, and Nigerian. Im still leery to get his Phoenix Haze. Im not sure if I can keep a plant alive for 24 weeks of flowering.
On a side note, Im pretty stoked to have gotten the last pack of Afropips Durban Poison & Swazi Red from www.vu-du.com Thats 20 Durban Poison seeds now. Woot.
Im getting pretty good at snagging the last of his landrace seeds. Unfortunately, he is closing up shop. Now, I just have to get his Malawi Gold, and Nigerian. Im still leery to get his Phoenix Haze. Im not sure if I can keep a plant alive for 24 weeks of flowering.
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
Im so glad I am hazed out right now. I had a hell of a post up, and fucking TOR butt raped me totally when I tried to submit. FU TOR.
Anyways..
Ive got a few pics to show of my newest toy I got from Home Depot for $30. Its a Ryobi Infrared Thermometer. It measures the surface temperatures of objects. I bought it to see how hot my plants were during lights on now that temps are going down. Its accuracy is 5C/9F, but when compared to my Caliber III hygrometer, its 3/-3F for me.
Its a pretty fun thing to play with. I can get a much better ideal of how my plants are feeling instead of just using my hand under the light. Its allowed me to know that at the bottom parts of my skunk hazes temps are 10F lower usually. Not exactly ideal. Right now the plants are in the 74-78 range most nights depending on temps.
Id like the plants to all be around 80F top to bottom. Thats the temp for maximum rate of photosynthesis. Thanks Gojo. No more growing tall plants next grow. Keeping em short and wide.
Pic 1: Skunk Haze E clone(Hazy Lady). She's 18 inches away from the generic 600w bulb, which runs cooler than my Ushio HPS bulb by up to 40F. The bulb is also much whiter than the Ushio, which is orange/red. Theres not a ton of red light coming from that generic HPS. Im going all Ushio next time around. MH & HPS. Oh back to the plant. She's seems a bit pale. Id like to get all the plants around 21 inches away next time around.
Pic 2: The Early Durban that continues to flower forever. I believe she's been flowering(onset of budding) for 10.5 weeks, and still has another 3 or 4 weeks more. A far cry from the 50 day flowering period she's supposed to have. A really weird pheno. Has the thicker buds of Skunk #1, but flowers slowly like Durban. Not exactly a real winner here? Ive had two Hermies out of them. I culled another one that was a waste of space. It was going to flower 14+ weeks, and the buds were incredibly sparse after almost 2 months. Now, I get this shitty pheno. Am I unlucky or what?
Pic 3: My sad little Satori Clone. She got burned up badly by the wind. She still soldiers on though. She has an incredible scent. I could bury my nose in her for hours. She smells like diesel fuel mixed with an exotic perfume. Its a real fucking treat to the senses. I can't wait to blow some people away with her in the future. I think she's been flowering for 60-64 days. She still got 20-30 days I think.
Anyways..
Ive got a few pics to show of my newest toy I got from Home Depot for $30. Its a Ryobi Infrared Thermometer. It measures the surface temperatures of objects. I bought it to see how hot my plants were during lights on now that temps are going down. Its accuracy is 5C/9F, but when compared to my Caliber III hygrometer, its 3/-3F for me.
Its a pretty fun thing to play with. I can get a much better ideal of how my plants are feeling instead of just using my hand under the light. Its allowed me to know that at the bottom parts of my skunk hazes temps are 10F lower usually. Not exactly ideal. Right now the plants are in the 74-78 range most nights depending on temps.
Id like the plants to all be around 80F top to bottom. Thats the temp for maximum rate of photosynthesis. Thanks Gojo. No more growing tall plants next grow. Keeping em short and wide.
Pic 1: Skunk Haze E clone(Hazy Lady). She's 18 inches away from the generic 600w bulb, which runs cooler than my Ushio HPS bulb by up to 40F. The bulb is also much whiter than the Ushio, which is orange/red. Theres not a ton of red light coming from that generic HPS. Im going all Ushio next time around. MH & HPS. Oh back to the plant. She's seems a bit pale. Id like to get all the plants around 21 inches away next time around.
Pic 2: The Early Durban that continues to flower forever. I believe she's been flowering(onset of budding) for 10.5 weeks, and still has another 3 or 4 weeks more. A far cry from the 50 day flowering period she's supposed to have. A really weird pheno. Has the thicker buds of Skunk #1, but flowers slowly like Durban. Not exactly a real winner here? Ive had two Hermies out of them. I culled another one that was a waste of space. It was going to flower 14+ weeks, and the buds were incredibly sparse after almost 2 months. Now, I get this shitty pheno. Am I unlucky or what?
Pic 3: My sad little Satori Clone. She got burned up badly by the wind. She still soldiers on though. She has an incredible scent. I could bury my nose in her for hours. She smells like diesel fuel mixed with an exotic perfume. Its a real fucking treat to the senses. I can't wait to blow some people away with her in the future. I think she's been flowering for 60-64 days. She still got 20-30 days I think.
looks like a fun toy, so you aimed it at the bulbs to find the temp diff? speaking of temp diff I've decided to get some kind of small heater for next grow to keep the dark time temps close(if not above) to the daytime temps, thanks for those links you posted the other day, agree, low growing plants are the way to go, didnt really do any lst, did supercrop (under duress ) one of mine but next time keep it short and warm at night(to keep it short) sounds like a plan eh?
) one of mine but next time keep it short and warm at night(to keep it short) sounds like a plan eh?
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
I aimed it at the bulbs, through the glass. Temps for the Ushio got up to 165F. The generic HPS peaked at about 120-125. Visually it was definitely emitting less red light, and very likely less light overall, and the difference in temps furthr lends to that thought.looks like a fun toy, so you aimed it at the bulbs to find the temp diff? speaking of temp diff I've decided to get some kind of small heater for next grow to keep the dark time temps close(if not above) to the daytime temps, thanks for those links you posted the other day, agree, low growing plants are the way to go, didnt really do any lst, did supercrop (under duress
I love my Ushio.
The PPFD of Ushio's Hilux Gro is the second highest on the market behind Osrams 600w Plantastar. Meaning its damned good, but for more detailed information I present you a post by Gojo. He's an over-flowing fountain of great knowledge. Chitownturk originally posted it here, but failed to give credit to the original Author. Be warned dont read it if you are high. He can be hard to follow at times, as he's one a whole nother level than any of us.
THat bulb's PPFD isn't good enough for me to want to use it
Short Solution:
Use a "Osram Plantastar 600 watt HPS", it's got the highest rated PPF/D of any current bulb and it's ASP range is weighted well.
Long Answer: (lol)
Plants use photons in the wavelength from about 400-500nm and 600-700nm. But plants don't use these two ranges equally, the ranges have different "weight" in terms of plant usefulness: the blue (400-500nm) and red (600-700nm) are weighted differently. The jury is still out on what is best but IMVHO 55% blue and 45% red is a good way to go...or 60%:40%...I like more blue at all phases but I'm happy with anything from 40%:60% (blue:red) to 60%:40% (blue:red). Both ranges have to be there in good amounts. The plant will adjust to what is present, just like it does with chemical nutrients in the media and in it's interaction with microbes/myco's from which the plants receive nutrients in organic horticulture...
There is much evidence that plants are somewhat indifferent to the ranges of photons; as long as both ranges are there in good quantities the plant will auto-adjust to best use the available nanometers...as long as they are within the ranges of 400-500nm and 600-700nm...
Those two rages of 400-500nm and 600-700nm are the "Action Spectra of Photosynthesis" (ASP). Those two ranges are also "Chlorophyll Carotenoids Absorption Spectra" (CCAS) . 400-500nm and 600-700nm are the two ranges we are interested in, you can see why they are important. Wavelengths emitted outside these two ranges are a waste of light and energy... Well, uvb and uva are important too, but not relevant to this thread.
lumes are a poor measurement of a bulbs plant usefulness, plants don't use lumens they use photons. Lumens include a wide range of wavelengths the plants don't use...
To measure a bulbs usefulness for growing plants in terms of energy output in photons you want to know the bulbs "Photosynthetic Photon Flux" (PPF) or more specifically the "Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density" (PPFD). The PPF tells you how many moles (method of measurement of photons) are being emitted per sq meter and the PPFD tells you how many moles are being emitted per sq meter and per second. PPFD is the best as it not only tells you what nanometers are emitted but how many moles are emitted in a given space and time which translates into the 'strength' of the bulb as more photons = more growth...PPF and PPFD measure the two rages of 400-500nm and 600-700nm.
A problem with PPF/D is it measures the photons at the source (eg. blulb); that is why we need to measure 3D PPFD as it encompasses moles at various distances from the source (see below).
There is also PAR (Photosynthetically active radiation) which measures the wavelength emitted but it covers 400-700nm which is a waste as the two ranges we want are 400-500nm and 600-700nm. So PAR isn't that good of a measurement for many reasons besides just the fact it 'overweights' wavelentgs from 400-700nm.
There are other factors to consider but it gets even more confusing and I don't really get it all either; just enough to know theres more I don't fully understand. There are a few equations used to correct the 'weight' of the two ranges within PAR and PPFD to more accurately portray what the plant needs in terms of nanometers (specific wavelengths)...but to keep things more simple just follow what I posted above: Try to get a PPFD with 40-60% blue:red or red:blue; but PPFD isn't measured like that, it's just a single mole measurement. Higher PPFD is better. Soooo you also NEED to see the "spectral output" of the bulb so you can get an idea of how the two ranges within PPF/D are weighted: that is, what percent of the total PPF/D do the blue (400-500nm) and red (600-700nm) ranges comprise?
Some bulb manufactures list the PPF and fewer list the PPFD and most do not list either...many list PAR which isn't useful unless you analyze the spectral output and then do some math kung-fu to figure out how the bulb is weighted in terms of the blue and red ranges comprising PPF/D. Thats the crappy part, most bulb manufactures don't have a quantum meter used to measure PAR and PPFD. And even fewer have 3D quantum meter (aka "line quantum meter") which measures level of PPFD at different depths within the canopy (distance from source).
Hell, most bulb manufactures don't even know or care about the level of PPFD and how the ranges are weighted. I spoke to like 3 different bulb manufactures and not one had a quantum meter and only one had a scientist on staff who knew what a quantum meter is...
Anyway, like I said at first:
Get an Osram Plantastar 600 watt...that's the only bulb I want to veg/flower under...and if you want a ferrari go with an air-cooled P.L. "Maxima" reflector/hood and a Lumitech digital ballest with your Plantastar 600 watt bulb
Osram is a major light manufacturer in Holland and they designed Plantastar specifically for plants to maximize the PPFD...this is the ONLY bulb designed with PPF/D in mind when designing the bulb, that I am aware of...
Now onto the heater. Keep the nighttime temps within +10-0F and you will be fine. There's no need to have a negative DIF as it can lead to problems down the line. My DIF in the veg/clone tent is +6-10F depending on plant height. Im able to keep super tight internodes on my plants under the 400w MH. Even the Skunk Hazes are tightly noded. Im not even using the cold morning dump at this time, and probably wont need it if the MH will do so much for me. Try and save money when you can.
I would use the heater for maintaining optimum temps for max photosynthesis. My plant temps drop down to 66F during lights out on my plants. Thats with the AC set to 70, im gonna bump it up to 80 and see if that improves things any.
Temps will be a real focus for me on my next grow. I want to maintain much better temps at night and day. Im sure I should see a noticeable increase in plant growth if I get it better dialed in.
more good stuff as usal I like people who measure things, thats why I always try to have a yardstick in my pictures, thanks... yeah I've started shutting my ac vent in my room off once the
big cab goes dark and its bumped my night time temps to 10 or so degrees diff from lights on.
the hps was only at 125F? Ill check out the 2 bulbs you mentioned, thanks again
big cab goes dark and its bumped my night time temps to 10 or so degrees diff from lights on.
the hps was only at 125F? Ill check out the 2 bulbs you mentioned, thanks again
DaveCoulier
Well-Known Member
So I have been playing around with Iso-hash lately and I thought I would share my experiences with all of you.
The first time I did it, the 'hash' was a gooey pile of nastiness. It would melt at room temperature. I definitely let the trim sit in the isopropyl alcohol for too long. So I started experimenting with different lengths of time for the 'wash'.
For the wash, I would just fill up a mason jar, and pour in enough alcohol to just cover it, and shake it for anywhere from 5-30 seconds. The 30 second wash produced the gooey pile that was unsmokeable, and couldn't even be handled. I threw it away.
5, 10, 15 second washes produced much better products, but obviously yield goes down this way. I started searching the web to try and find tutorials about iso-hash to see if I could improve my results. I came across a great tutorial that gave me the answers I needed(can't find the link atm. If I find it, Ill post it).
You can wash the trim or buds in the iso as long as you want, and still get a great product without all the chlorophyll, waxes, and who knows what else ruining your hash.
The secret is to simply remove as much as the alcohol before allowing it to evaporate. The resin settles at the bottom, while the chlorophyll and waxes can easily be removed with either a turkey baster, or pipette. I actually keep reusing the same dark green alcohol over and over. Saves alot of money this way.
Be fore-warned, if you remove too much alcohol, you will get a very fine powdery hash that can't be hand pressed. Im not sure if a pollen press would work either. Its that hard to work with.
Below are some pics of some of the powdery hash I got from the dried up outdoor plant. Its the color of cocoa. I actually made another fine powdery hash that was golden yellow from some other trim, but It looks like I didn't take any pics of it. Im not even sure what I did with it. I either smoked it, or just misplaced it somewhere.
I got to smoke some of this in a doobie, of one of the outdoor plants I harvested awhile back. I got pretty stoned from it.
I definitely had a hard time walking straight. I can always tell how messed up I am by how long it takes me to put the memory card into my camera. It normally takes me just 2-3 seconds, but last night, it took me about 30 seconds to get it back in the camera...
Good stuff, but hard to work with. I gave the rest to a buddy of mine for him to enjoy.
Next post will have some pics of some I made last night with a bit too much alcohol in it. You'll easily see the differences in quality.
The first time I did it, the 'hash' was a gooey pile of nastiness. It would melt at room temperature. I definitely let the trim sit in the isopropyl alcohol for too long. So I started experimenting with different lengths of time for the 'wash'.
For the wash, I would just fill up a mason jar, and pour in enough alcohol to just cover it, and shake it for anywhere from 5-30 seconds. The 30 second wash produced the gooey pile that was unsmokeable, and couldn't even be handled. I threw it away.
5, 10, 15 second washes produced much better products, but obviously yield goes down this way. I started searching the web to try and find tutorials about iso-hash to see if I could improve my results. I came across a great tutorial that gave me the answers I needed(can't find the link atm. If I find it, Ill post it).
You can wash the trim or buds in the iso as long as you want, and still get a great product without all the chlorophyll, waxes, and who knows what else ruining your hash.
The secret is to simply remove as much as the alcohol before allowing it to evaporate. The resin settles at the bottom, while the chlorophyll and waxes can easily be removed with either a turkey baster, or pipette. I actually keep reusing the same dark green alcohol over and over. Saves alot of money this way.
Be fore-warned, if you remove too much alcohol, you will get a very fine powdery hash that can't be hand pressed. Im not sure if a pollen press would work either. Its that hard to work with.
Below are some pics of some of the powdery hash I got from the dried up outdoor plant. Its the color of cocoa. I actually made another fine powdery hash that was golden yellow from some other trim, but It looks like I didn't take any pics of it. Im not even sure what I did with it. I either smoked it, or just misplaced it somewhere.
I got to smoke some of this in a doobie, of one of the outdoor plants I harvested awhile back. I got pretty stoned from it.
I definitely had a hard time walking straight. I can always tell how messed up I am by how long it takes me to put the memory card into my camera. It normally takes me just 2-3 seconds, but last night, it took me about 30 seconds to get it back in the camera...Good stuff, but hard to work with. I gave the rest to a buddy of mine for him to enjoy.
Next post will have some pics of some I made last night with a bit too much alcohol in it. You'll easily see the differences in quality.