SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
Update, took off the humidity dome lid "read somewhere that once they grow their first set of real leafs to take it off"
First Waterfarm Grow - Dinafem Roadrunner
- Thread starter SoFloFlame
- Start date
+1
I am doing my first grow as well. I found it to inaccurate with the liquid Ph meter, and not knowing your TDS was killing my plants or not allowing them to grow. I got a Ph meter and TDS meter was about $130 for both at my local grow shop. After dialing in the water and ppm my plants have tripled in size the last 3 days where they weren't growing at all the first 10 days.
Weedler
Well-Known Member
The A/C coming into the room should be adequate you do need something to move the air in the room itself assuming there is no return vent as part of your central A/C in that room to suck out the old air... You can keep a door open but security risk increases, it also allows contaminants to enter the grow area. You do need to move the air out, if your going to open a window like you said this will allow noise to escape the grow area take that into account as well as smell. You can place activated carbon filter sheets and force air through it and out of the house. You'll lose CFM's by restricting the air flow but sounds like your area is large enough and if your only doing 1 plant you should be good. Be sure to put up curtains to black out the light should there be any windows. This is one reason why I went to a tent as well as containing the smell within the tent then venting outside the room or even the house if I really wanted to.
Weedler
Well-Known Member
My ladies never do well under a lid I live in a humid climate so I guess I have that working for my advantage
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
I have two high powered fans and a ceiling fan that i can turn up if need be; and i do have an air a/c outlet vent that i plan on attaching hosing to in order to make some sort of a cool tube attachment to my HPS light when i start it up; the exhaust fan will be blowing out the window most likely through a carbon filter of some sort "if the temperature and smell get to be noticeable in other parts of the house". For the windows i have mylar that i will be putting up over.
PurpleRhinoceros
Active Member
Yes. Exactly. Simple to use.
Weedler
Well-Known Member
Good deal, here's how I vented out of my tent and into a return vent out of the room... You can see the top of the tent in the picture maybe a 3-4' run from tent.
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
how much does that ac vent duct usually go for per foot? and anyone got a simple list of supplies i would need? Fans, vent duct, fittings, etc?
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
when i wake up tomorrow ill take a picture of the HPS setup i have and ill let everyone decide what size tubing i would need and how i would attach it to the unit itself. The transformer/capacitor for it is separated from the actual light bulb and reflector by a 8 foot cable.
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
So kinda a semi-update; ive ran into a possible huge problem; The only grow space my landlord/best friend will allow me to use "yes he knows, and hes cool with it as long as i give him 1/4th of the harvest" is the attic. Living in "Canada", the daily temperatures are very hot during the day and night; its about 9pm ish here and a quick temp reading up there reads out at 85 degrees Fahrenheit. What are some methods to keep the temp down without spending an arm and a leg on power bills. Setting up a splice of the house's central a/c is out of the question imo.
My current idea is to attach some 6" a/c duct to a high powered fan i have and have that going out one of the many side vents in the attic. For air circulation i have two high powered box fans that i would run pretty much 24/7. Remember, i am only growing one plant so i only have to keep the air moving fast and reasonably warm around just that plant. For the HPS in the attic, i plan on making a cool tube as well blowing out of one of the side vents. For a light cycle im not sure on what to do; i could run the lights only at night to keep the temp down, but it may show up easier on thermal imaging camera's if i run it then. Im heading up into the attic in a few to take pics of the area in question.
On a side note, i have my hydro setup currently running with no plant in it to allow the chlorine to dissipate, i have both air pumps running to help exaust the water of chlorine faster. Also taking pics of this soon.
My current idea is to attach some 6" a/c duct to a high powered fan i have and have that going out one of the many side vents in the attic. For air circulation i have two high powered box fans that i would run pretty much 24/7. Remember, i am only growing one plant so i only have to keep the air moving fast and reasonably warm around just that plant. For the HPS in the attic, i plan on making a cool tube as well blowing out of one of the side vents. For a light cycle im not sure on what to do; i could run the lights only at night to keep the temp down, but it may show up easier on thermal imaging camera's if i run it then. Im heading up into the attic in a few to take pics of the area in question.
On a side note, i have my hydro setup currently running with no plant in it to allow the chlorine to dissipate, i have both air pumps running to help exaust the water of chlorine faster. Also taking pics of this soon.
djruiner
Well-Known Member
you could run a splice off the ac unit...but the problem with that is that the temps are recorded in the house...so it will shut off depending on the temps inside your house...so there is no way to control the temps...if the room temps are staying 85+ when you add the lights in the temps could run 100+...and if the ac shuts off for 30-35 minutes...your temps could soar.unless your like me...and have the ac running almost 24/7....or have it set to "on" during the day..and then set it on auto at night.maybe think of a small window unit type ac for the area...the have the drainless kind now that dont require a window for the water to drain.but since its already fall...your temps should start dropping soon....might not even need to worry about temps..but if you have some good inline fans on the hoods of your lights...with ducts running the air out of the room..you should be golden
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
I have the abillity to get a window ac unit but the problem would be drainage and the power bill. Im thinking of just running the lights at night and having good ventilation matched with lots of air circulation directly pointed towards and away form the plant.
djruiner
Well-Known Member
that should probably work...its hard to tell with new grow areas...its always trial and error till you get what works best for your area...like for me i would never be able to grow in an attic here...way to much humidity...so i built a grow box....for stealth and size reasons...it limits my grow space...but you gotta work with what you got ya know
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
Well the humidity here is pretty high as well, but for some reason in the attic it is always reallly dry.
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
Another update fellas, after getting a bearing on the situation i have come to a conclusion on what to do. As DJ has said previously, im going to splice off of my main A/C duct with some dryer ventilation duct i have leftover from my dryer install earlier this year. In order to maximize efficiency and temperature drop, I will be taking two presentation boards "the kind for science fair projects", and taping them together. Setting up the light from one of the trusses in the attic and then draping mylar over the entire setup to keep the cool air in. On top of the Reflector for the HPS light, i installed a tube with a high powered computer fan sucking out air. This combined will hopefully bring the temperature in the grow box down instead of cooling off the entire attic. I will also be placing tarp on the ground in case of spillage and 1 vortex fan for air circulation. Temps with no fan today in the attic were in excess of 100 degrees F imo.
On i side note, i setup my hydro unit, had water circulate through it for 24 hours to remove any chlorine, placed the seedling in the clay pebbles, and setup my temporary grow room with floros.
Water Ph: 6.0 +-.5
Water ppm: 500 "a little high i know"
Res temp: 82
Air temp: 80
Pictures soon to come fellas : P
On i side note, i setup my hydro unit, had water circulate through it for 24 hours to remove any chlorine, placed the seedling in the clay pebbles, and setup my temporary grow room with floros.
Water Ph: 6.0 +-.5
Water ppm: 500 "a little high i know"
Res temp: 82
Air temp: 80
Pictures soon to come fellas : P
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
Update again: PICTURE TIME!
on a side note, i notice that most people only care about pictures : P
1. the AC duct splice i setup
2-3. The Baby IN the hydro setup
4-8. The attic setup
Two side notes: 1. do you think the material on the ceiling of the attic would reflect some of the heat/light emitted from the HPS running at night?
2. With the a/c duct splice, temps are at exactly 80 degrees with everything running during the heat of the day! Ext. temps of the "tent" are 100+
Im definitely going to run the system at night in order to reduce heat further.
on a side note, i notice that most people only care about pictures : P
1. the AC duct splice i setup
2-3. The Baby IN the hydro setup
4-8. The attic setup
Two side notes: 1. do you think the material on the ceiling of the attic would reflect some of the heat/light emitted from the HPS running at night?
2. With the a/c duct splice, temps are at exactly 80 degrees with everything running during the heat of the day! Ext. temps of the "tent" are 100+
Im definitely going to run the system at night in order to reduce heat further.
Attachments
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
Another update, The first node of leaves has a slight deformation; either from pH levels or just a random deformation who knows, but nonetheless; she's still growing : P
I cut some length of the pump tube that the water goes up into the ring in order to place it lower, somewhat under the clay pellets to prevent any splashing.
I cut some length of the pump tube that the water goes up into the ring in order to place it lower, somewhat under the clay pellets to prevent any splashing.
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
And here are the pics
Attachments
SoFloFlame
Well-Known Member
I do have one question though, to help keeps the temps down and air flowing quicker i attached a fan to the end of spliced ac duct in order to suck air out of it quicker. With the fan i had running in there now it made temps go up quite a bit for some reason; do i need to have that black fan running at all if i have the fan blowing the cold air in and the fan sucking the hot air out of the top of the tent mounted on top of the reflector for the HPS light?