Don Gin and Ton
Well-Known Member
sup headsup yeah ruin it with your base nutes, i generally lower the ml per litre if im using the full amount of pk so as not to burn.
Club 600
- Thread starter DST
- Start date
wally nutter
Well-Known Member
i here yaa there. my pops is up between 5 and 6 no matter what.
the sand provides good drainage though, its not so bad
the sand provides good drainage though, its not so bad
Heads Up
Well-Known Member
I just went into my grow room to check on the girls. I have to say, the grape ape is doing nicely, should get about a foot long bud from her and she is filling in much more quickly than the others. My dog...is confused. It seems as if she decided to become a she and then had a sex change operation, she has balls. I picked off five of them last night. The grape ape also grew balls which I picked off and haven't had any more in about a week or so. I'll keep checking my dog the next couple of days to see is he/she is growing more. Just a little heads up for those with dogs and apes.
DST
Well-Known Member
Yup, I run the PK 14-14 with my normal nutes. 10th of a dosage increase each week.
Indeed some of the DOGs seem to sprout sax, as I have wanred a few times. My DOG1 that i started for our 600 DOG experiment is completely nanner free! yet one of the others is nanner-tastic, or was. Of course I took a clone from the naner one before it showed anything, DOH!
Grape Ape sounds like it's nice!
Indeed some of the DOGs seem to sprout sax, as I have wanred a few times. My DOG1 that i started for our 600 DOG experiment is completely nanner free! yet one of the others is nanner-tastic, or was. Of course I took a clone from the naner one before it showed anything, DOH!
Grape Ape sounds like it's nice!
DST
Well-Known Member
Some do it differently HeadsUp, I tend to start mine around the end of week 1 of pistils showing.
Based on an average of 10 weeks flower I then increase by the 10th from there on.
All it is really doing is altering your NPK ratios so that there is more PK available, and by doing it gradually I find the plants don't tend to get overnuted or burnt with sudden changes in diet.
Based on an average of 10 weeks flower I then increase by the 10th from there on.
All it is really doing is altering your NPK ratios so that there is more PK available, and by doing it gradually I find the plants don't tend to get overnuted or burnt with sudden changes in diet.
ghb
Well-Known Member
HU all i would say is listen to people with experience using it and pay no attention whatsoever to the instructions on the bottle!. i have used 3 bottles of the stuff and all 3 had different instructions, can you believe that?, one bottle says use it near the end of flowering, one said use it at the first sign of flowering and the other said use it in the middle of flowering
i agree with DST it is simply a pk booster so the longer you go in flower you wanna increase the PK and reduce the N.
i still use it just as a booster when using my coco a+b line, when i start to back off the a+b nutes i ditch it and go for atami bloombastic as my pk booster. what do you normally use for a pk boost?
curiousitykills
Member
Hello to everyone , thank you for the warm welcome . This place rocks . I will post some more pics up tonite .
DST
Well-Known Member
Hey guys,
I don't often read the New posts threads but have a few times of late. It was only after doing this that I saw again how often the trusted the - flush the plant - piece of advise seems to be branded around.
Flushing I think can be a good thing but also leaves the medium rinsed of a lot of the goodness in there, and doesn't always solve the problem. HeadsUp mentioned about not having many problems with his plants and using mycorrhizae as a preparation product for his medium. Another trusted bru cof supports Sannies seeds, which also has some great info on medium preparation. Micronutrients I feel are often missed out when dealing with plant diagnosis. Nutrient lock out may be a lot of peoples problems due to overzealous feeding, but with the correct preparation, over feeding can probably be avoided if you have a strong root base and a healthy plant.
The reason I bring this up is that one of my cuttings, the OG Kush clone, was just not happy at all, it had pretty much every thing going wrong with it that lack of micronutrients creates. Now when I have an issue, and I have been using this for around 12 months now, I use a product from a Dutch company called Pokon - Groenkracht (Greenpower.) This contains all the micro-nutrients needed to solve those annoying un-diagnosable problems, including Boron, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybenum, Zink.
The micro organisms act as Chelating Agents, which in simple terms enable nutrients to move freely around the plant, roots etc. I don't want to tell peeps how to suck eggs, but for anyone interested, just look up things like: Chelation, Chelating Agents, Amino Acids, Organic Acids, Hydroxomate Siderophores (the last 3 being the most common natural chelating agents.)
An example the article I read gave was in high PH medium's, Iron will for example create insoluble nutrients, however increased chelation avoids this. So naturally having this occur as much as possible is going to give you a plant that is more powerful, handles nutrients quicker and faster, and is not subject to slight changes in things like PH that can happen when increasing nutes too much.
Anyway, just some thoughts for today. This is the link to the pokon website..it's in Dutch, but if you see this product I recommend it. http://www.pokon.nl/huis/producten/product/29
Peace DST
I don't often read the New posts threads but have a few times of late. It was only after doing this that I saw again how often the trusted the - flush the plant - piece of advise seems to be branded around.
Flushing I think can be a good thing but also leaves the medium rinsed of a lot of the goodness in there, and doesn't always solve the problem. HeadsUp mentioned about not having many problems with his plants and using mycorrhizae as a preparation product for his medium. Another trusted bru cof supports Sannies seeds, which also has some great info on medium preparation. Micronutrients I feel are often missed out when dealing with plant diagnosis. Nutrient lock out may be a lot of peoples problems due to overzealous feeding, but with the correct preparation, over feeding can probably be avoided if you have a strong root base and a healthy plant.
The reason I bring this up is that one of my cuttings, the OG Kush clone, was just not happy at all, it had pretty much every thing going wrong with it that lack of micronutrients creates. Now when I have an issue, and I have been using this for around 12 months now, I use a product from a Dutch company called Pokon - Groenkracht (Greenpower.) This contains all the micro-nutrients needed to solve those annoying un-diagnosable problems, including Boron, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybenum, Zink.
The micro organisms act as Chelating Agents, which in simple terms enable nutrients to move freely around the plant, roots etc. I don't want to tell peeps how to suck eggs, but for anyone interested, just look up things like: Chelation, Chelating Agents, Amino Acids, Organic Acids, Hydroxomate Siderophores (the last 3 being the most common natural chelating agents.)
An example the article I read gave was in high PH medium's, Iron will for example create insoluble nutrients, however increased chelation avoids this. So naturally having this occur as much as possible is going to give you a plant that is more powerful, handles nutrients quicker and faster, and is not subject to slight changes in things like PH that can happen when increasing nutes too much.
Anyway, just some thoughts for today. This is the link to the pokon website..it's in Dutch, but if you see this product I recommend it. http://www.pokon.nl/huis/producten/product/29
Peace DST
DST
Well-Known Member
And to sum it up the benefits of chelation from the article.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Increase the availability of nutrients. [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelating agents will bind the relatively insoluble iron in high pH soil and make it available to plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Prevent mineral nutrients from forming insoluble precipitates.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
The chelating agents of the metal ions will protect the chelated ions from unfavorable chemical reactions and hence increase the availability of these ions to plants. One example is iron in high pH soil. In high pH soil, iron will react with hydroxyl group (OH-) to form insoluble ferric hydroxide (Fe(OH)3) which is not available to plants.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fe+3 + 3 OH-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]-------->[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fe (OH)3[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Soluble[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Insoluble[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chelation will prevent this reaction from happening and hence render iron available to plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3. Reduce toxicity of some metal ions to plants.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelation in the soil may reduce the concentration of some metal ions to a non-toxic level. This process is usually accomplished by humic acid and high-molecular-weight components of organic matter.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4. Prevent nutrients from leaching.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Metal ions forming chelates are more stable than the free ions. Chelation process reduces the loss of nutrients through leaching.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]5. Increase the mobility of plant nutrients.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelation increases the mobility of nutrients in soil. This increased mobility enhances the uptake of these nutrients by plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6. Suppress the growth of plant pathogens.[/FONT]
Some chelating agents may suppress the growth of plant pathogens by depriving iron and hence favor plant growth.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1. Increase the availability of nutrients. [/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelating agents will bind the relatively insoluble iron in high pH soil and make it available to plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]2. Prevent mineral nutrients from forming insoluble precipitates.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
The chelating agents of the metal ions will protect the chelated ions from unfavorable chemical reactions and hence increase the availability of these ions to plants. One example is iron in high pH soil. In high pH soil, iron will react with hydroxyl group (OH-) to form insoluble ferric hydroxide (Fe(OH)3) which is not available to plants.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fe+3 + 3 OH-[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]-------->[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fe (OH)3[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Soluble[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Insoluble[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chelation will prevent this reaction from happening and hence render iron available to plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]3. Reduce toxicity of some metal ions to plants.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelation in the soil may reduce the concentration of some metal ions to a non-toxic level. This process is usually accomplished by humic acid and high-molecular-weight components of organic matter.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]4. Prevent nutrients from leaching.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Metal ions forming chelates are more stable than the free ions. Chelation process reduces the loss of nutrients through leaching.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]5. Increase the mobility of plant nutrients.[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
Chelation increases the mobility of nutrients in soil. This increased mobility enhances the uptake of these nutrients by plants.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6. Suppress the growth of plant pathogens.[/FONT]
Some chelating agents may suppress the growth of plant pathogens by depriving iron and hence favor plant growth.
grow space
Well-Known Member
Hey ya all..i have a quick question, can i use 600 w without a cool tube...grow room is big enough so i dont see a problem?! I will also have a big circulating fan and also another desk fan blowing straight to the bulb, form the ground, off form plants...so is this possible with good results overall ????
Stay high ya all.....
Stay high ya all.....
ghb
Well-Known Member
i have 2 600w hps in a 1.2x4.2m tent and don't use cooltubes, so long as you got good circulation and air exchange you will be fine.Hey ya all..i have a quick question, can i use 600 w without a cool tube...grow room is big enough so i dont see a problem?! I will also have a big circulating fan and also another desk fan blowing straight to the bulb, form the ground, off form plants...so is this possible with good results overall ????
Stay high ya all.....
genuity
Well-Known Member
you'll be just fine......Hey ya all..i have a quick question, can i use 600 w without a cool tube...grow room is big enough so i dont see a problem?! I will also have a big circulating fan and also another desk fan blowing straight to the bulb, form the ground, off form plants...so is this possible with good results overall ?
Stay high ya all.....
grow space
Well-Known Member
Thanks man 4 the info....
so i have right now one white widow and one ak 47 in flower, just started..i have one 150 w hps, and 2 70 w hps...will be adding a 600 w for all the cause, oh and i also have 2 t8 fluro tubes as well, one warm white and one cool white, lil over a 100 w of side lighting....will be adding also a another t8 fluro rack to another side for complete all around side lighting...thats my masterplan right now, just felt like sharing with ya all good ppl....stay high...
DST
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a BRIGHT idea grow space, lol.....sorry for the pun, in a strange mood this afternoon....
Please show us some pics of the set up, sounds like you are covering all the bases. And we all guarantee that you will LOVE your 600!!!
Peace,
DST
Please show us some pics of the set up, sounds like you are covering all the bases. And we all guarantee that you will LOVE your 600!!!
Peace,
DST
Thanks man 4 the info....
so i have right now one white widow and one ak 47 in flower, just started..i have one 150 w hps, and 2 70 w hps...will be adding a 600 w for all the cause, oh and i also have 2 t8 fluro tubes as well, one warm white and one cool white, lil over a 100 w of side lighting....will be adding also a another t8 fluro rack to another side for complete all around side lighting...thats my masterplan right now, just felt like sharing with ya all good ppl....stay high...
grow space
Well-Known Member
ok, will post some in here in the future, when i actually have my 600 w...Hopefully it wont be over a week.
GreenThumb2k10
Active Member
Anyone got a tissue lol