Need help first grow
- Thread starter billups
- Start date
Juicy Fruit
Active Member
were they foiler fed? looks like spots left behind by hard water to me.
Snow Crash
Well-Known Member
Spider mites?
green_is_good
Well-Known Member
foliar feeding is spraying with a spray bottle, and hard water is water that is from your tap with high ppm. did you look at the bottom of your leafs, for mites and eggs?
Nice Ol Bud
Well-Known Member
I spray mine with a spray bottle at night right before it goes to bed..
with that mess mine up?
withoutAchance
Active Member
have you tried reading the bilbe mites and falior spraying are coverd in their, im leaning towards mites look in the bugs section here i think youll agree, and the hole growing thing take a trimendous amount of time and effort be prepared to do a little. a shearch for white spots whould have yelded 1,000,000,000,000,000 answers
withoutAchance
Active Member
with the wrong mix yes
green_is_good
Well-Known Member
Foliar feeding instructions:
You can use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants. To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage.
* The best temperature is about 72 degrees (when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open); at over 80, they may not be open at all. So, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer part of the day if it is cold out.
* Use a good quality sprayer -- should atomise the solution to a very fine mist.
* Always be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding! For extra safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.D lights are raised to a safe distance (double the distance is a good rule of thumb) to prevent burning.
* Make sure the PH of your solution is between 7 and 6.2.
* To prevent the water from beading up (acting as small prisms) and thereby burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of liquid detergent (wetting agent).
* Spray leaf surface -- the tops and the undersides -- until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. Stop spraying 2 weeks into flowering -- use sparingly on bud sites.
* Dispose of excess spray according to manufactures instructions— home made fertilizer sprays will be fine for at least 2 weeks.
* Spray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the foliage with plain ph'd water to reduce salt build-up.
You can use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants. To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage.
* The best temperature is about 72 degrees (when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open); at over 80, they may not be open at all. So, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer part of the day if it is cold out.
* Use a good quality sprayer -- should atomise the solution to a very fine mist.
* Always be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding! For extra safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.D lights are raised to a safe distance (double the distance is a good rule of thumb) to prevent burning.
* Make sure the PH of your solution is between 7 and 6.2.
* To prevent the water from beading up (acting as small prisms) and thereby burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of liquid detergent (wetting agent).
* Spray leaf surface -- the tops and the undersides -- until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. Stop spraying 2 weeks into flowering -- use sparingly on bud sites.
* Dispose of excess spray according to manufactures instructions— home made fertilizer sprays will be fine for at least 2 weeks.
* Spray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the foliage with plain ph'd water to reduce salt build-up.
Medi 1
Well-Known Member
this isnt becauise of hard water. and you dont need to ph for foliar as there isnt any roots on a leaf to need that. and if you do it then do it a bit after the light is oiut, not right at light out. needs to cool the stomatas first
i wouldnt be using a full feed as a foliar. i just asked this the other day to the guys that mix our nutes and they recomended not to...salts, clog stomatas.
get to the bottom of it. if you have a decnt cam turn the leaf over and get as close a shot as you can ofg the underside of the leaf. look for little tiny white roundish eggs and small bugs. some may have a spot on the back of them or some may be dark and some cloudyish white. you may need to stare a bit to see them move.
i have a pic here ill try n find what it looks like, sorry if their so big....
i wouldnt be using a full feed as a foliar. i just asked this the other day to the guys that mix our nutes and they recomended not to...salts, clog stomatas.
get to the bottom of it. if you have a decnt cam turn the leaf over and get as close a shot as you can ofg the underside of the leaf. look for little tiny white roundish eggs and small bugs. some may have a spot on the back of them or some may be dark and some cloudyish white. you may need to stare a bit to see them move.
i have a pic here ill try n find what it looks like, sorry if their so big....
green_is_good
Well-Known Member
i thought that was the guys plant, with all of those spider mite eggs.