Full tilt med SCROG. blue w, mango cush, jack herrer. Ebb/flow, co2, botanicare

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Yeah. Used to use molasses but it was kind of expensive and a pain in the arse as you have to disove in hot water first. I just use floranectar now. I'm foliar spraying it once every three days. I added it to the Rez a couple times and it was fine but foliar is enough. I like the floranectar as it has three differen kinds of sugars in it..but who really knows if "its the best" or whatever.

Back to the question though, the microbes need enyzmes and some sort of carbo. So either a sugar or a starch (decaying root matter)
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Starting to see the logic behind a co2 burner. Getting 6 days between 20# tanks :(. Plants are seriously churning though. Sucking up almost a gallon each per day. Dehumdifier running 24/7 and struggling to stay below 50%.
Trying to get a couple days at 40% to hopefully increase resin production as a response to the drier conditions.

New Rez. Ppm of 1520 and temp of 69. Room is staying between 79 and 71. Co2 at 1500. All systems working well :)
 

xivex

Active Member
Starting to see the logic behind a co2 burner. Getting 6 days between 20# tanks :(. Plants are seriously churning though. Sucking up almost a gallon each per day. Dehumdifier running 24/7 and struggling to stay below 50%.
Trying to get a couple days at 40% to hopefully increase resin production as a response to the drier conditions.

New Rez. Ppm of 1520 and temp of 69. Room is staying between 79 and 71. Co2 at 1500. All systems working well :)
Yoyo! So your dropping the humidity that much for flowering? I didn't know the lower humitidy encouraged resin production...that true? Interesting! I had heard it was just UVB that does that..

That sucks about the 20Lb. tank only lasting 6 days!! Damn, makes me rethink my plan..I still gotta hook up my Sentinel CHHC-4 and the 20 Lb. CO2 tank also! Hope it lasts longer than 6 days for me! Of course I only have 9 plants at the moment so it better!! :)

Your plants make me jealous bro :) Great job.
 

Megalith

Well-Known Member
thanks for elaborating. thought i would mention to be careful above 40% in flower. Make sure buds arent too tight together. I got a little bit of mold on 2 buds on a great cola(26 in.) I was @ 45%. 6 inch buds so dense on the cola they started all growing into each other. Molded quicker than shit. I know you know what your doing but if you leave a couple days unattended it could become a problem. Unless the Mrs. has eyeds on. It will seriously piss you off too. I know your in the correct range just be careful.

Couple quick questions: where do you get the CO2 tanks?
how much to fill them?

Sounds like quite a bit. What are unsafe levels for a house?

for those who need it: proper ranges
http://www.growery.org/2824/Optimal-Humidity-rH-and-Temperature-Ranges-for-Cannabis
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Xivex, it is thought by most that the glands on mj plants is a defense of herbivory and to prevent dessication. Studies have found a positive correlation between humidity levels and resin levels. The indicas from afganistan have some if the highest resin amounts and are located in very arid regions. Makes sense to me anyways. The theichomes both block direct solar radiation and increase the boundary layer around the leaf.

Mega: I get my tanks at a welding supply store. You drop off the empty and grab a new one. $16 My room is pretty sealed so not much escaping. Unsafe levels are waaay more than 1500. I can't remember the exact ppm where people feel light headed but it was around 12,000 ppm or so.
 

Megalith

Well-Known Member
ok. good to know. that's resonable 16 bucks a week. right? not 20 tanks im 6 days. thats over $300. sorry, I'm confused. # = lbs. or # = number?
 

xivex

Active Member
Xivex, it is thought by most that the glands on mj plants is a defense of herbivory and to prevent dessication. Studies have found a positive correlation between humidity levels and resin levels. The indicas from afganistan have some if the highest resin amounts and are located in very arid regions. Makes sense to me anyways. The theichomes both block direct solar radiation and increase the boundary layer around the leaf.

Mega: I get my tanks at a welding supply store. You drop off the empty and grab a new one. $16 My room is pretty sealed so not much escaping. Unsafe levels are waaay more than 1500. I can't remember the exact ppm where people feel light headed but it was around 12,000 ppm or so.
Great info dude! Thanks! Answered a question for me as well!

Another cool thing you can do with CO2 is pest control. If your in a sealed room you can run the CO2 levels up super high and leave the room (hold your breath until you leave). Leave the room sealed like that and it will kill any pests in the garden within an hour or so. This is what a buddy told me..sounds good! :)

As for the humidity levels thats awesome, thanks for that tidbit also bro! :) I'm gathering my intel now because I'm planning on flowering in the next 2 weeks or so..

X

PS - Avatar change! :) Seems more suited to my strain of choice this time! :)
 

Megalith

Well-Known Member
I'm not going to answer that :)
ok. you just did. but # is a symbol for number to me. I know some people who spend a lot more on grows than others whether it's on nutes or power or whatever. My Co2 is home-made. I certainly couldnt tell you anything about welding supplies. That's why I asked. I assumed it was expensive to run.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Takes money to make money. It's fairly well accepted that increases in yield average 30% with co2 usage. So let's say I pull 3 ounces a plant without. 3x8 = 24. Now with co2 I should be getting 24 x 1.30 = 31. That's a difference of 6 ounces which is about $1700 where I live. Suddenly the $112 dollars I spent in co2 doesn't seem like so much.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you want me to mail you some? LOL No, 6 ounces goes for around 1500-18000 depending on the quality. Using co2 should yield about 6 ounces more per harvest.
 

Megalith

Well-Known Member
I always thought it was expensive. Like I said it's reasonable. I've been making my own since my 1st fish tank. I dont know what levels I just dose them twice a day. I ve seen regulators like 200 bucks and always thought it was expensive. Anyway, it would be nice to actually have a tighter ship. Maybe in the future. I know the increase in yield makes it worth it. But think about this for a second. In aquariums you only need like 25 PPM of C02 for plant life to thrive. You can actually see them produce oxygen at this level.(underwater) I think they may benefit more with it always available in the water. What do you think? It would cost less.Also dont they store it up in their roots like other minerals?
 

jimbizzzale67123

Well-Known Member
I always thought it was expensive. Like I said it's reasonable. I've been making my own since my 1st fish tank. I dont know what levels I just dose them twice a day. I ve seen regulators like 200 bucks and always thought it was expensive. Anyway, it would be nice to actually have a tighter ship. Maybe in the future. I know the increase in yield makes it worth it. But think about this for a second. In aquariums you only need like 25 PPM of C02 for plant life to thrive. You can actually see them produce oxygen at this level.(underwater) I think they may benefit more with it always available in the water. What do you think? It would cost less.Also dont they store it up in their roots like other minerals?
Yes I have a tank too and its very interesting how little co2 they need. I dont even supplement co2 in my tank and my plants are propagating and growing like crazy. I just use my 4in can fan too pump fresh air into my tent, I dont have any room for co2 tanks and such I wish I did.
 

FirsTime

Active Member
I want to make sweet passionate love to each and every one of your babies(I understand, that's like banging your daughter... So im asking for permission). I'm sorry but the question was going to come out one time or another =o
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I want to make sweet passionate love to each and every one of your babies(I understand, that's like banging your daughter... So im asking for permission). I'm sorry but the question was going to come out one time or another =o
Ummm. I guess I'm glad we got it out of the way then
 

frogster

Active Member
Damn,, Hate to ask questions on your journal,,, I need to get my pics up on mine.... I just put 15 of my my 1" rockwool cube rooted clones in my hydroton (yea!) rooting another 15.... I dipped the cubes in a mild nute solution (200ppm),,, keeping them about 25grams each... I read somewhere to let them sit in the hydroton for at least 2 days before starting a feeding cycle.ebb&flo.. True? I had a feeding chart I copied for new rooted plants but I cant find it... I have them at 75 degrees and right at 40% humidity... They are under a 1000w mh in ocho xxxl that is 3' 8" away.... not much heat at all, but lots of light!... They seem to have been doing ok the last few hrs.... Kinda afraid to go to sleep... So should I flood them? My ph is 5.8 and rez temp 65... and ppm in rez is 275. about 60ppm was from the tap water. thx Frog
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Hey frogster, no problem buddy just don't hijack my thread by posting pics in it as that can make grow journal threads confusing. A couple thoughts on your sitch. The ideal humidity for veg is typically in the 70's with some research saying that it should be in the 80's it your temps get into the higher 80's. Clones and rooted clones generally do better in a higher humidity as transpiration increases with increases in the difference bewteen the water content in the leaf and the water content of the air. Please see my thread about the three major plants proceses that was pretty much ignored in the beginner forum :( (https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/388616-little-plant-primer-newbs.html). Transpiration is simply the absorbtion and movement of water through the plant and for a large part, is a function of temp and humidty). If your new plants are forced to absorb and evaporate large amounts of water that they do not have the ability to uptake due to immature roots, this could cause problems.

This is the explanation behind my suggestion to raise the humidty to 60-70 if you can.

On to the feeding and flooding. I'm not a fan of rockwool for the very reason that it is overly absortive. That and handling dry rockwool puts tiny inhale-able shards if glass in the air. Letting your plant medium dry out a little can have a positive effect of stimulating root growth. However, younger plants have less of an ability to survive moisture stress. So with freshly rooted clones it's a very fine line. I would start to flood them now, if you have precise control of your flood level, try to stop the level of the flood right below the rockwool. The roots will grow down into the hydroton and you will be fine.

If your worried about too much moisture and root rot, I would highly suggest the addition to some hydroton peroxide to your rez. A gollon of 32 or 35% solution is like $12 and will last a long time. The hydroper will increase oxygen levels that will prevent the multiplication of bad fungus and bacteria which is the actual cause of root rot. I always run a week of h2o3 whenever I transfer plants to a new growing medium to somewhat steralize them. I also add a dash if superthrive which is very inexpensive and an excellent source of b1 and thamine which jump starts roots. It WORKS as the above picture of my bubble bucket clone roots can attest.

And last but most certainly not least, your nutrient concentration. I'm using organic nutes which apprantly, can be difficult to measure ppm accurately. I followed someone elses nutrient schedule and had around 240-330 ppm during the first week. My plants suffered all kinds of problems and i freaked out (mind you I also had hydroton ph problems which likely excerbated the problem). Of course I got a myriad if generally unhelpfull advice from the forum but I showed a picture tinny hydro store manager he needed about 2 seconds to say "your underfeeding them". I took ppms to around 500 and they bounced right back. My suggestion therefore would be to go ahead and run the 300 for 4-5 days and let them settle in a bit but I would up the ppm to around 500-600 by day 7. The salinity of your roots should slowly increase as the plants age but even at this stage, a ppm of 500 would not be higher than the roots which would cause the cessation (or reverse) of nutrient uptake do to the lack of saline concentration in the root zone (again see my thread for explanation).
Hope this helps.
 

Megalith

Well-Known Member
Your funny megalith.
ok. it wasn't what I was going for but, I guess I'll be a comedian soon enough. I'll get the parts and probably set it up this weekend. I just llike to think outside of the box. It's hard to get info on something no1 has done. How are your girls doing?
 
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