PH, Lime...... Help please :P

Nullis

Moderator
Stand back a little further when you take the picture, try to get one just after the lights go off but use the flash and/or regular lighting when you take it. Appearance of the leaf should come out much better.
 

sputniknz

Active Member
Stand back a little further when you take the picture, try to get one just after the lights go off but use the flash and/or regular lighting when you take it. Appearance of the leaf should come out much better.
i cut a leaf, as lights wont be off for a while... these pics are all of the same leaf, and this leaf has average syptoms.... there are a few leaves that are far more exagerated.... has beeen this way for a while and affected leaves are gradually getting worse although no yellowing yet. i have given doses of trace elemenets whcich claim to contain all the essentials.... i have ph tested soil and get 7.0..... i dont understand what i am doing.

soil mix is a blend of quality tomato mix, worm castings, perlite and mushroom compost. lights are 600 hps, fan blowing constantly when lights are on. temp ranges from 65 at the lowest to 85 at the higest.... i have been giving organic nutes all the way, when sex showed i started with budzilla1 (30-30-30) at 5mls per/litre.

buckets are big as... 5 gallon is the smaller, drainage is excellent (50 plus ring finger sized holes)

at my disposal are the following

epsom salts

trace elements

bloom fertiliser: budzilla1

garden lime

dolomite lime


PS: i am ghetto grow incase you dont know lol.
 

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sputniknz

Active Member
i done 2 more ph tests just now and get 2 different results... could this mean my soil has high and low ph areas, can that explain why some leaves show these symptoms and not others???

1st test= 6.0-6.5 (orangish)

2nd test=6.5-7.0 (light greenish)

otherwise plants look healthy still...but no budding, only new growth and im at 70+ days....
 

Nullis

Moderator
i done 2 more ph tests just now and get 2 different results... could this mean my soil has high and low ph areas, can that explain why some leaves show these symptoms and not others???

1st test= 6.0-6.5 (orangish)

2nd test=6.5-7.0 (light greenish)

otherwise plants look healthy still...but no budding, only new growth and im at 70+ days....
pH isn't a huge concern if the test you're using is anywhere near accurate.... and you aren't color blind or something. The reason why some leaves show symptoms has more to do with the mobility of the nutrient that is lacking within the plant. Nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and magnesium are referred to as being 'mobile' because they are able to move freely within the plant. Other nutrients are considerably less mobile (calcium, iron) and some are considered to be non-mobile (boron). When there is a deficiency of a mobile nutrient like N, P, K, Mg, et al. you'll see symptoms begin to appear in the oldest/lowest growth on the plant and progress to the middle of the plant as whichever nutrient that is lacking moves up to support the new growth. Conversely a deficiency of a non-mobile or slow moving nutrient like boron, iron, calcium et al. typically express in the foliage of the upper parts of the plant and/or primarily the new growth, because the plant isn't able to draw those nutrients out from older growth to support the new growth so easily.

This is why where symptoms are occurring is important. Some deficiencies present with very similar symptoms, just in different parts of the plant. An iron deficiency looks almost like a magnesium deficiency, except that iron isn't very mobile and thus symptoms begin to appear in the upper/new growth. Of course as a deficiency progresses it will affect more of the plant and can eventually lead to death.

Your leaves do look Mg deficient to me; leaf margins are going chlorotic while the veins are still green. Check if that Micronutrient product you're using has magnesium, it should give percentages of what it contains somewhere on the bag. You could mix a teaspoon to a gallon of water and apply it foliarly (spray the leaves with the solution) up to twice a day. If you haven't done so already you could water in a couple teaspoons per gallon, then water with 1/4 that amount each watering in the future.

If that Budzilla is 30-30-30 that seems a bit extreme... if you're trying to flower but the plant doesn't want to that could be why, too much nitrogen.
 

sputniknz

Active Member
i got this stuff called sequestron, it says it is an acid loving plant food, i have misted the leaves... and overnight it looks a bit better, will se how the week progresses.... i have also switched to 12/12.... didnt want to but its been 70 + days and these auto lowryders havent shown a bud... will see what happens else chop chop.
 
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