slight yellowing in leaves?

[MrMoores]

still in vedge atm, bout a foot high, rly starting to take off now, im using just a+b nutes[dutchpro] and adding h2o2 at 5 mil per day i kno this isnt addaquite, im thinking the yellowing in my leafs although it is very very slight yellowing is due to calcium or magnesium deficiantcy but tbh i rly dont kno, can some one tell me wot nutes i should be using in my dwc setup for both grow and bloom phases please

 

[rayishungry]

nitrogen. Mag/Cal they will get brown spots and dry out the leaves. Why h2o2 everyday? I only use if something is wrong like the starting of root slime.

 

[MrMoores]

it says on the tub "for best results add 5mil per 10 litres every 24 hours" so h202 actualy purifys the water to some extent if ur saying u only use it for root slime? as well as adding d.o.
thxs for the info mate rly appreciated, nitrogen eh?? would of thought the a+b growth would have enough of it in it.
Would adding cal.mag help ? dont we add root boosters in dwc? or any sort of beneficial enzymes? should i be adding a micro nutes formula of some sort ??
thxs ray for ya help man plus rep

 

[onthedl0008]

Yellowing in the leaves only means one thing . They are hungry and being deprived of nitrogen. Your plants should be a nice healthy dark green before semt to flower. So start getting them dialed in. A real good rule of thumb to shoot for is about 1400 ppm max veg. That's a safe number. But if you have a real good heavy resin produceing strain a better number to be shooting for would be 1800 ppm. I'm not reccomending dumping a bunch of nutrients in your res and shocking your plants. Add 100 ppm everyother day and let them catch up till u get ur number. Remember its best to feed your plants and get them eating real good in veg so they can produce in flower. Your plants need a good steady of nitrogen in veg so they can more easily move the p/k in flower. Hope this helps. Don't be scared to overfeed. Just for a heads up in my system my plants are eating the max veg feed by the end of week 3 tops.hope this all helps man.peace

 

[4tatude]

Yellowing in the leaves only means one thing . They are hungry and being deprived of nitrogen. Your plants should be a nice healthy dark green before semt to flower. So start getting them dialed in. A real good rule of thumb to shoot for is about 1400 ppm max veg. That's a safe number. But if you have a real good heavy resin produceing strain a better number to be shooting for would be 1800 ppm. I'm not reccomending dumping a bunch of nutrients in your res and shocking your plants. Add 100 ppm everyother day and let them catch up till u get ur number. Remember its best to feed your plants and get them eating real good in veg so they can produce in flower. Your plants need a good steady of nitrogen in veg so they can more easily move the p/k in flower. Hope this helps. Don't be scared to overfeed. Just for a heads up in my system my plants are eating the max veg feed by the end of week 3 tops.hope this all helps man.peace

agree with everything except nute levels. depending on strain n nutes. would agree that your in the park speaking generally but to a new grower that may be some high numbers due to the inability of a newb to read plants. no disrespect ment just my personal experience.
unless co2 is being used they do better with a med high nute level than a higher ppm level. too high levels can be toxic to a normally healthy plant. jmo

 

[nog]

agree with everything except nute levels. depending on strain n nutes. would agree that your in the park speaking generally but to a new grower that may be some high numbers due to the inability of a newb to read plants. no disrespect ment just my personal experience.
unless co2 is being used they do better with a med high nute level than a higher ppm level. too high levels can be toxic to a normally healthy plant. jmo

i agree at 1800 ppm you will have an ec of 3.6 ????, i thought plants started to die at above 2.7 ????
the plants might have a ndefficiency and be hungry but just adding more nutes may make things worse if the deficiency is caused by an imbalance, and the ph can also affect nutrient uptale: i would check out all the variables before simply adding more nutes, i personally rarely go above an ec of 1.5, usually lower, but thats just strain and method yours may be different.

 

[tenthirty]

A shameless quote form Heath the master!!

Heath Robinson on Nutrients

I will go into detail about nutrient concentrations because it seems to be an area which a lot of growers don't fully understand.

I have seen quite a lot of bad advice from experienced growers who advise to "increase the nutrient concentrations until you see tip burn and then back off slightly" I will try explain why this is bad advice.

Nutrient salts can cause harm to plants if they are in high enough concentration in water or soil. This effect is mainly indirect by pulling moisture out of roots and reducing the uptake of water and nutrients to affected plants. This is the cause of tip and edge burn of leaves, if the nutrient concentration was maintained, slow growth, nutrient deficiencies, wilting and eventual death of the plant would occur if the problem is not corrected.

This is the reason why, Water movement in plants is a factor of osmotic pressure and capillary action. Osmotic pressure is defined as water flowing through a permeable membrane in the direction of higher salt concentrations. Water will continue to flow in the direction of the highest salt concentration until the salts have been diluted to the point that the concentrations on both sides of the membrane are equal.

A good example of this is pouring salt on a slug or snail, the salt concentration outside the slug is highest, which causes the water from inside the slug's body to cross the skin membrane. The slug becomes dehydrated and dies.

For osmosis to occur, water must move from a more dilute (the nutrient solution) to a more concentrated compartment (the plant). If you were to water your plant with sea water the plant would wither and die as the salt water now extracts water from the plant instead of replenishing it. So basically high levels of salinity will lead to high concentrations of salt in the plant tissues which will severely damage metabolic processes.

here is a grow chart which will help explain why there is no advantage to feeding your plants high nutrient concentrations.


notice on the chart that there is a deficient zone where the plant is not meeting its needs and growth is poor. A low zone where the plant is growing but lacks all the necessary nutrients to sustain good growth and yield.

Now the important part, you will notice if you look at the sufficient and high zones that there is no advantage to feeding your plants at higher concentrations than is needed. Notice also that growth and yield suffers sharply once the plant is over fertilised. If you feed your plant until it is toxic and showing signs of tip burn and you back off slightly you are still in the excess zone and your yields will suffer to some degree.

I have found that the sufficient zone for marijuana is in the range from an Ec of 1.0 to 1.6 I personally run in at an EC of approx 1.2 and never exceed 1.4

I hope that helps explain why I do what I do.

 

[onthedl0008]

agree with everything except nute levels. depending on strain n nutes. would agree that your in the park speaking generally but to a new grower that may be some high numbers due to the inability of a newb to read plants. no disrespect ment just my personal experience.
unless co2 is being used they do better with a med high nute level than a higher ppm level. too high levels can be toxic to a normally healthy plant. jmo

None taken man I do understand ur point I wasn't going to throw down ppm levels was just giveing general ballpark figures.
I def don't want to be giveing new growers to much info but do want to make sure they are led in the right direction too.
I will clearify.
Sativa dominant strains max feed level would be 1400ppm for me.
Indica dominant strains max feed level would be 1800ppm for me.
If unsure of a strains grow habits id stick to the 1400ppm just to be safe.
A good way to tell your plants are eating right is your ph will rise if they aren't feeding enuff.
Ph will sink if ur feeding to much.
Trick is PH. KEEP it dialed in at 5.8. Your plants will tell u the rest.
I have a real good beginner set-up thread in my signature for beginners who are interested just click on the picture in my signature

 

[onthedl0008]

A shameless quote form Heath the master!!

Nice quote and id suggest any beginner to maybe stick to this advice.

But take it from me an EXPERIENCED DWC grower I've been there and done all that. Follow that advice especially with multiple plants/res and u will have nothing but problems especially with certain strains that like to eat more. Specifically high resin produceing strains to be exact. U will suffer cal/mag deficiencies at those levels I promise you.
But hey to each his own.
I've got a good buddy that's actually good buddys of heaths. He's following my advice now.