help ............please!! my plants are getting bad.

jubbs1

Well-Known Member
im growing 4 plants in a nft hydro system but i think i gave them to much nutes. the leaves have gone dark green and all new grow is twisted and curling up. i changed the tank with a lower dose but the problem seems to be getting worse (although i did only do it a couple of days ago.
should i change the tank and replace wiyth just pre water for a couple of days...
help please. the plants are about 5-6 weeks old and are in flowering but over the last couple of days they are getting worse.
also, i have the lights on 12/12 but my plants are autoflowering so they can receive more light if need be.
should i give them mor light
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im growing 4 plants in a nft hydro system but i think i gave them to much nutes. the leaves have gone dark green and all new grow is twisted and curling up. i changed the tank with a lower dose but the problem seems to be getting worse (although i did only do it a couple of days ago.
should i change the tank and replace wiyth just pre water for a couple of days...
help please. the plants are about 5-6 weeks old and are in flowering but over the last couple of days they are getting worse.
also, i have the lights on 12/12 but my plants are autoflowering so they can receive more light if need be.
should i give them mor light
View attachment 1658319View attachment 1658320View attachment 1658321View attachment 1658326View attachment 1658325View attachment 1658327View attachment 1658323
The Leaves aren't dark enough to indicate over fertilization. They would be almost blackish green, and a real stiff feeling with severely brown edges/tips. Also we must keep in mind that although cannabis is mostly all green it is a flowering plant. The curling leaves are in fact flowers, and can in some cases show different characteristics than the foliar leaves. Leaves/Blooms/Fruit, this is the order of plant progression. Ripening is a third phase, that is vastly overlooked in cannabis cultivation today; yet here is where you will see those leaves buried in swelling calyxes oozing with copious amounts of resin. If anything, my eye tells me that PH balancing your nutrient solutuion down to the 5.5 to 6.5 range and monitoring runnoff PH for stability is very possible. Also flushing the plants and medium with fresh clean water beforehand, will remove excess salts that can cause nutrient lockout, and water less frequetlyripe 007.JPG. My opinion is that if things were real bad, nearly all of the leaves on your plants would show similar signs of distress. Just run through the numbers and you will be OK
 

Rhyspect

Active Member
cut off those curled leaves and don't worry about it, i had this problem before it's a nutrient deficiency where there aren't enough vedge nuts in your mix, new leaves and stuff find it difficult to grow.
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
The Leaves aren't dark enough to indicate over fertilization. They would be almost blackish green, and a real stiff feeling with severely brown edges/tips. Also we must keep in mind that although cannabis is mostly all green it is a flowering plant. The curling leaves are in fact flowers, and can in some cases show different characteristics than the foliar leaves. Leaves/Blooms/Fruit, this is the order of plant progression. Ripening is a third phase, that is vastly overlooked in cannabis cultivation today; yet here is where you will see those leaves buried in swelling calyxes oozing with copious amounts of resin. If anything, my eye tells me that PH balancing your nutrient solutuion down to the 5.5 to 6.5 range and monitoring runnoff PH for stability is very possible. Also flushing the plants and medium with fresh clean water beforehand, will remove excess salts that can cause nutrient lockout, and water less frequetlyView attachment 1658341. My opinion is that if things were real bad, nearly all of the leaves on your plants would show similar signs of distress. Just run through the numbers and you will be OK
That clawing is most definately a sign of nitrogen toxcity. Affected foliage will remain distorted, just monitor new growth. RF your post is so far of. Not really any runoff to read or medium to flush as he is growing NFT(nutrient film technique) so you know in the future.

cut off those curled leaves and don't worry about it, i had this problem before it's a nutrient deficiency where there aren't enough vedge nuts in your mix, new leaves and stuff find it difficult to grow.
Not even close either. I wouldnt trim any green leaves, curled or not. That plant is not deficient...
 
im growing 4 plants in a nft hydro system but i think i gave them to much nutes. the leaves have gone dark green and all new grow is twisted and curling up. i changed the tank with a lower dose but the problem seems to be getting worse (although i did only do it a couple of days ago.
should i change the tank and replace wiyth just pre water for a couple of days...
help please. the plants are about 5-6 weeks old and are in flowering but over the last couple of days they are getting worse.
also, i have the lights on 12/12 but my plants are autoflowering so they can receive more light if need be.
should i give them mor light
View attachment 1658319View attachment 1658320View attachment 1658321View attachment 1658326View attachment 1658325View attachment 1658327View attachment 1658323

The longest natural day is 14hours48mins, on June 22, the longest natural night is 14hours42mins on December 22. This tells me that 14h 45min. would be really good for your plants as this would simulate the peak of the suns intensity in early summer when nature has it's most vigorous growth. The breeders say 24 is ok but, they don't say that it is in anyway natural to the plant. Plant DNA is a clock and you have to synchronize it with it's home. Earth. Also remember to ripen your wonderful fruits, for maximum potential. This can be achieved with 3-5 nights in 14h 45mins of dark/9h 15mins light. Signaling that they should put every last effort into finishing. This is the defining moment between Pro & Joe. Our little secret, k. Whoops! Good Luck! Blaze1 :joint: :peace:
 

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
I going to go with some type of nutrient burn cause of the brown tips on the tips of your leaves in your pic's:lol:It could be compounded by a fluctuation of your ph:lol:I would flush with plain ph'ed water for a day then give some lower ppm ph'ed nutrients:lol:Check your meters make sure their:lol: calibrated and in working order:clap:
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
The longest natural day is 14hours48mins, on June 22, the longest natural night is 14hours42mins on December 22. This tells me that 14h 45min. would be really good for your plants as this would simulate the peak of the suns intensity in early summer when nature has it's most vigorous growth. The breeders say 24 is ok but, they don't say that it is in anyway natural to the plant. Plant DNA is a clock and you have to synchronize it with it's home. Earth. Also remember to ripen your wonderful fruits, for maximum potential. This can be achieved with 3-5 nights in 14h 45mins of dark/9h 15mins light. Signaling that they should put every last effort into finishing. This is the defining moment between Pro & Joe. Our little secret, k. Whoops! Good Luck! Blaze1 :joint: :peace:
14hrs 45mins of sun may be enough for good growth. But 14hrs 45mins of artificial lighting would produce less than desirable results. MJ is a C(3) annual meaning it does not require a dark or rest period and responds quite well to 24hrs of artificial light. Summer begins on June 21st, not the 22nd in the NH....about 1:45 pm EST this year. After at the days begin to once again get shorter. And again most of what you just said is utter crap......
 

jubbs1

Well-Known Member
That clawing is most definately a sign of nitrogen toxcity. Affected foliage will remain distorted, just monitor new growth. RF your post is so far of. Not really any runoff to read or medium to flush as he is growing NFT(nutrient film technique) so you know in the future.



Not even close either. I wouldnt trim any green leaves, curled or not. That plant is not deficient...
thanks for the reply people..

Yeah sorry about that. a nitrogen toxicity is what i actually meant..
im using the IONIC nutrients if you guyts have ever heard of it. i fed my plants the grow for about 3-31/2 weeks and then when they started flowering that when i put them in the NFT system ( first time user ) and changed the nutes to the bloom and i only gave them quarter strength of the recommended dose and this has happened.
I dont have a ec meter so im kinda blind on that bit. is it essential to have one?
Should i be giving them grow and bloom nutes together as it in the early period of flowering ( it did say on the label to just switch when its time and nothing about mixing he twpo together)
Do you know how to get rid of the toxicty? do i flush with pure water for a day or two or will just lowering the nutes be enough.
thanks again everybody!! really appreciate the reply cos if these babies die i can definatley see myself crying for a couple of days
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
I use Ionic myself on occassion. Most plants can handle the 4 tsp per gallon they recommend, just take a few weeks to work them up too it. And I never use the boost until the final 3 weeks if at all, just depends on the strain....you are flowering so switch to the bloom, it has the same amount of N as the grow, just a touch more P and K....hardwater formula that is...grow 3-1-5 and the bloom is 3-2-6.
 

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
You really need a PH & PPM or E.C.:lol:The one's I use now are about $55 each + shipping at amazon.com Oakton testers 2 they have one of each ph & you want the low ppm meterbongsmilieYes their very necessary:cuss:
 
That clawing is most definately a sign of nitrogen toxcity. Affected foliage will remain distorted, just monitor new growth. RF your post is so far of. Not really any runoff to read or medium to flush as he is growing NFT(nutrient film technique) so you know in the future.



Not even close either. I wouldnt trim any green leaves, curled or not. That plant is not deficient...
Since we can only, watchhowyoudoit how about you do it without Hatin' or trying to inadvertantly make yourself sound like you have all the answers. When in fact, you have told Jubbs1 nothing original, or of intellectual value. You actually gleaned off of the first two responses, to advocate your obviously profound arrogance
about your, " growin' skills. " Spare the definition also, because botany apparently is not your forte. For if it were we would be in mutual agreement that nitrogen over-fertilization results in extremely dark leaves with edgeburns redish brown in color, whereas nitrogen deficiency causes necrosis with yellowing, and browning dead spots.
Leaf curling is more often caused by overwatering. If roots cannot breathe properly, plants will respond by curling their leaves in a process we call respiration aka breathing. This curling allows for the trapping of more air to be absorbed via the stomata. Therefore the plant needs to respire instead of transpire, it cannot photosynthesize CO2 with the glucosides (sugars), terpenes, anthocyanins, and carotenoids, such as the amino acids lutein, allanine, and tryptophan.
This means slow growth when the stomata are not wide open accepting CO2, no food is getting processed and coverted into active compounds. If you reverse this grower induced environmental harshness you will see a correction in all areas of production. Oh and Watchhowidoit, the salt in nutrients are in an ionic form and thus can permeate through the finest of material, accumulate thickly on the sides of reservoirs, pipe walls trays, netpots in aeroflow, soiless mediums, NFT is also used with rockwool which is a notorious PH issue to the begginer. and yes the fiber can also accumulate salts. NFT is not easy to master as well. Had I mentioned these things in the ORIGINAL response I made you wouldn't have been so inclined to show your UN-coolness bro. Hayah! Grasshoppa! Smoke some Anti-a-Hole
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PPM and EC meters are for people that do not know how to read a plant......never saw a plant that could read a meter.....
Hahhh! what a knee slapper. Thats reeeaalllyy!! INTELLIGENT. Who needs Good Buds anyways right. Mr. Knowitalls gonna eyeballit for you. Hows about humblin' that Jolly Green Giant aka your EGO! Do you PH test the water BEFORE you burn your plants or after? Or do you underfeed them until they show deficiencies. So at which point do they have IDEAL conditions, so they can stop guessing when to actually reach their FULL GENETIC POTENTIAL. Post us a pic of some of YOUR frosty ass, danky, cheesy, trichome laden produce, so were not all in the dark here as to who is about to win the Medical HTCC
this weekend in SF. Please Do Sir. Cause I will be there.:mrgreen:
 

jubbs1

Well-Known Member
I use Ionic myself on occassion. Most plants can handle the 4 tsp per gallon they recommend, just take a few weeks to work them up too it. And I never use the boost until the final 3 weeks if at all, just depends on the strain....you are flowering so switch to the bloom, it has the same amount of N as the grow, just a touch more P and K....hardwater formula that is...grow 3-1-5 and the bloom is 3-2-6.
cool cheers pal!!!
so do you think i should give more light. the only reason im on 12/12 is because i have one regular in there and i wanted it to show it sex ( and its a girl /purple haze i think? )but i suppose i could make that revert back to veg for the sake of the other three which according to the growers info should only have aboutr 30-40 days left ( pakastani lowryder). what do you guys think????????
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
cool cheers pal!!!
so do you think i should give more light. the only reason im on 12/12 is because i have one regular in there and i wanted it to show it sex ( and its a girl /purple haze i think? )but i suppose i could make that revert back to veg for the sake of the other three which according to the growers info should only have aboutr 30-40 days left ( pakastani lowryder). what do you guys think????????
The more light you can give an autoflower the better. Maybe just fins a dark place and remove the plant you want to sex a place it there for 12 hrs each day.
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
Hahhh! what a knee slapper. Thats reeeaalllyy!! INTELLIGENT. Who needs Good Buds anyways right. Mr. Knowitalls gonna eyeballit for you. Hows about humblin' that Jolly Green Giant aka your EGO! Do you PH test the water BEFORE you burn your plants or after? Or do you underfeed them until they show deficiencies. So at which point do they have IDEAL conditions, so they can stop guessing when to actually reach their FULL GENETIC POTENTIAL. Post us a pic of some of YOUR frosty ass, danky, cheesy, trichome laden produce, so were not all in the dark here as to who is about to win the Medical HTCC
this weekend in SF. Please Do Sir. Cause I will be there.:mrgreen:

HPIM4088.jpgHPIM4089.jpgHPIM4092.jpgHPIM4094.jpgall illiterate plants that cannot read. And most new/average growers struggle enough just learning how to water properly, more less throwing a bunch of numbers at them they, or most throwing them for that matter, even know what they truely mean. Meters have there place in advanced gardens being used by experienced gardeners if they so choose to really 'fine tune' things. But guess what? MJ is an annual that can easily reach its genetic potential when fed a balanced diet of 16(some are saying 17 now)elements. Thats a simple fact........
 

jubbs1

Well-Known Member
The more light you can give an autoflower the better. Maybe just fins a dark place and remove the plant you want to sex a place it there for 12 hrs each day.
cool bro.
how much do you reckon! 14/10 18/6. if i switch it up to say 18/6 would that have any adverese affects to the plant as it has been on 12/12 for about 2 weeks now?
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
cool bro.
how much do you reckon! 14/10 18/6. if i switch it up to say 18/6 would that have any adverese affects to the plant as it has been on 12/12 for about 2 weeks now?
If power cost is not an issue I would go 20/4 on the autos. You could probaly switch them right into it in one change. But it may help ease some tension in yourself by just adding an hour or so every couple of days until you reach the desired light schedule. I myself would just flip them in one move. LR2s have a great track record of having stable genetics, they really can 'take a licking and keep on ticking'..........
 
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