Timer not letting MH/HPS light come on???

bump1987

Active Member
Can anyone help me here? I just bought a HTGSupply HPS/MH setup (400watt) and got it in and hung today but when plugged into the timer it seems to not want to turn on fully.

I'm using a digital timer from lowes that allows for exactly what I need but this isn't good obviously.

Is it possible that the timer isn't strong enough or something for the bulb where it limits what it can do? Sorry I don't know any of the terminology for this stuff, but I want to get my setup going!
 

dam612

Well-Known Member
how many amps is your timer rated for? and sometimes you need to manually put it on first
 

joe dollar

Well-Known Member
prob have the timer switch off.......read the directions with the timer and if still no go call them up and ask for a replacement
 

bump1987

Active Member
the timer is set to on. i've switched it on manually as well as auto. set times for it to kick on in the past and it has worked, even clicks on the flourescent test light with the MH plugged up to it. I plug it in and get a constant blue arc that jumps around a bit from a straight arc to one that follows the contour of the bulb within the bigger bulb, the little one that houses the arc itself.

based on ohms law a 400w ballast @ 120 volts should pull roughly 3.3amps. my timer is capable of 15 amp/1850 watt general, 5 amp/600 watt tungsten, whatever that means for ratings. It should be capable though.
 

ULMResearch

Active Member
Try a new bulb?

I use the digital timer 8 strip outlet from Lowe's and it works fine on my 400W digital ballast. MH bulbs I noticed could take a while to fire depending on if the ballast was warm or not. HPS fires up instantly after the 12 hour off period. The timer wasn't a factor in that behavior.
 

Luger187

Well-Known Member
try plugging the light into a wall socket. if it works fine, the problem is the timer. ive had a few cheap lowes timers. one never really worked, but most havent had any problems. so if u go with the cheap ones again, maybe get two of them. open one, and if it also doesnt work, return both of them, and get a better quality one. if it works, u have that second cheap timer incase the first one goes out. its just a matter of time, really
 

bump1987

Active Member
i got the HPS in for like 2 minutes or so and it works awesome. must be the bulb or my patience. can anyone confirm that metal halide conversion bulbs have a white front on each end of the inner bulb?
 

Monkeyfloss

Active Member
Can anyone help me here? I just bought a HTGSupply HPS/MH setup (400watt) and got it in and hung today but when plugged into the timer it seems to not want to turn on fully.

I'm using a digital timer from lowes that allows for exactly what I need but this isn't good obviously.

Is it possible that the timer isn't strong enough or something for the bulb where it limits what it can do? Sorry I don't know any of the terminology for this stuff, but I want to get my setup going!
You will NOT be able to use a timer alone with a regular HPS/MH setup. You will need ann additional piece of equipment called a 'contactor'. Without a contactor you will just ruin any timers plugged into your setup. This is not needed if youre using a digital ballast setup.
 

Luger187

Well-Known Member
You will NOT be able to use a timer alone with a regular HPS/MH setup. You will need ann additional piece of equipment called a 'contactor'. Without a contactor you will just ruin any timers plugged into your setup. This is not needed if youre using a digital ballast setup.
how does it fuck up timers?
 

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
You will NOT be able to use a timer alone with a regular HPS/MH setup. You will need ann additional piece of equipment called a 'contactor'. Without a contactor you will just ruin any timers plugged into your setup. This is not needed if youre using a digital ballast setup.
don't say that too loudly, I have a cheapo 15 amp timer that has run a 400 watt ballast for about 4-5 yrs now ;) -I have seen 1000 watt setups kill cheap timers due to the power up surge arc wielding the contacts on.

bump1987, since the timer works for your regular hps bulb and for a floro test light. it sounds like a bad bulb or not a conversion bulb or not the right wattage.
does the problem bulb work properly if you plug the ballast into an outlet w/ no timer?
 

DrFever

New Member
i am wondering if you got your switch on for hps or mh and the right light in place :)) on my ballests i could put a mh light in it but it wont go on cause i got it swtched to HPS you get my drift ???? look on your ballest for hps or mh switch lol
 

bump1987

Active Member
I don't know if I chauk it up to a bad connection, too fast of recycle, or what...but I put it back in and it popped right back on like nothing ever was the matter. My HPS came on right away, so I turned it off and let it cool so I could grab it with some bubble wrap. Took it out, but the MH in and it worked. We will see if it kicks on at 6am as it should.


Whats the deal with the "contractor" I have never seen, read, heard, been told about this and honestly as long as my amperage isn't over run....why should I use it?
 

Luger187

Well-Known Member
I don't know if I chauk it up to a bad connection, too fast of recycle, or what...but I put it back in and it popped right back on like nothing ever was the matter. My HPS came on right away, so I turned it off and let it cool so I could grab it with some bubble wrap. Took it out, but the MH in and it worked. We will see if it kicks on at 6am as it should.


Whats the deal with the "contractor" I have never seen, read, heard, been told about this and honestly as long as my amperage isn't over run....why should I use it?
basically its a high power relay. heres a link to how relays work http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/relay1.htm
click the green on/off switch in the picture

basically its like this: theres an electromagnet that pulls a switch. when the magnet is powered on(electricity coming from timer), the switch is closed(turned ON). this electricity flowing through the switch comes from a separate source than the timer. all u do is plug the light into the same line as the switch. now the large amperage is not going through the timer, but instead another wall outlet. BUT the timer still controls when the relay, and thus the light, turns on/off
 

bump1987

Active Member
Seems that as long as I am not pulling close to or over 15 amps then I shouldn't have a worry though? We only use relays in automotive stuff for things that pull more than the rated power for where you tap into, like the ignition.

I run two compressors, and a fan off their own relays because my ignition itself is on a 30 amp circuit but they pull close to 80 themselves.

I appreciate the information but I will just keep a close eye on the setup i'm using and change if something is to happen.
 

Randm

Active Member
No need for any expensive timers, I get the timers that are used to control electric hot water heaters from Home Depot for around $50.00
I run (2) 400 watt lamps on each one. Easy to program, no fancy electronics to screw up, reliable. Never had any problems with them.
 
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