214w cfl grow help? PICS!!!

mazand1982

Well-Known Member
whats up peoples? first off id like to say i love this site. lol.

long story short this isnt my "first" grow. not exactly. Ive grown somewhere around 7 plants now.. lol (growing since may) only one was a girl. killed the rest. lol. terrible luck but its all bagseed. (great bagseed.. mostly named stuff. ie Jherer.. mango kush, maui wowi, NL, etc etc. this seed could be any of those or anything at all.. friend had no idea what it was.. around here we call it "loud" if its good stuff) shrug Ill be back with a proper grow journal but in the mean time i need everyones expertise and help. I Actually only have two questions:

1. Yellowing veins, what does it mean? my leaves are a nice green, and some of my veins are turning red, but other than that plant seems fine. She was an odd one growing though, she was warped and twisted.. weird looking.. i picked her up from a friend and nursed her back to health, but i think she was a mutant anyway she perked up but still looked/ grew funny. Idk how far along i am into flowering now. which leads into my second question:

2. About how far into flowering do you think i am based on the pictures? the plants been under 12/12 essentially from seed. It was planted somewhere around may 1st-12th not sure exactly... and im definitely not sure when it started flowering. im busy so ive been absentmindedly caring for it watering when she looked thirsty / weighing method.. one day i looked and it had baby buds. lol.



Grow info:
4 x 23w 2700k cfl
1 x 68w 2700k cfl
2 x 27w cfl (currently im only using 1 27w.. im tinkering with the others lamp)
MG soil and nutes (hey its working for me...)


what else.. uhm... the grow has sort of been evolving over time ..this lady started out being neglected by my friend (it was a curiosity type grow.. not fully serious) she started in a pot on a window sill...ive added lights over time.. adjusted the grow box... right now she is about 16inches from the top of the dirt. idk what size pot .. 8inch i think. (.. i think its around a 1.5 - 2 gallon pot? idk) no firts besides what was in the dirt.. now that shes flowering ive been giving her MG flowering nutes...

everything i have is from home depot lol

now for some pics.. first up are the issues yellow veins / red stems

View attachment 1699529
what is this ? (refer to question 1)



and based on these how far into flowering would say they are? sorry they are sideways.. they show fine on my computer.


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andddd BUD p0rN!!! lol

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id say over watered bro
 

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
yea, you want your buds to be mature when you harvest or you maybe dissapointed., wait for your buds to mature
 

drkrain

Member
... sorry ive fallen in love this is my first baby and i cant stop taking pics. but tell me these arent sick. im buying myself a dope ass camera.

sidenote i just got a 250w mh/hps switchable light. (i only have a mh bulb atm, working on getting hps) so im going to start my autos soon. (HBD and PE)

but anyway. late night nudie pics of Amber Rose:

IMG_1413.jpgIMG_1420.jpg
 

napa23

Well-Known Member
yep still nowhere near done. don't worry about timelines. your plant will be ready whenever it is ready. I might take longer than the breeders say, it most likely will actually.
 

BlazedMonkey

Well-Known Member
... sorry ive fallen in love this is my first baby and i cant stop taking pics. but tell me these arent sick. im buying myself a dope ass camera.

sidenote i just got a 250w mh/hps switchable light. (i only have a mh bulb atm, working on getting hps) so im going to start my autos soon. (HBD and PE)

but anyway. late night nudie pics of Amber Rose:

View attachment 1717910View attachment 1717912
Looking good :P Got a bit and im sure people will debate but from what ive heard you should gives nutes until you harvest pretty much.
 

BlazedMonkey

Well-Known Member
Not really because ive gotten most of my info from people on here. I might be wrong and to each his own but this is what ive read that seemed like it was more accurate.



Originally posted by woodsmaneh!
Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress.
The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

For one thing, the most common way that growers flush their crops is by giving their crops water that has no nutrients in it. But this doesn't fully cleanse your crops. It only starves your plants so they lose vigorous floral growth and resin percentages just before harvest. Other growers use flushing formulas that generally consist of a few chemicals that sometimes have the ability to pull a limited amount of residues out of your plants.


Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavour of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulphur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is needed for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are movable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Trans-location:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the trans-location process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be trans located through the phloem. Immobile elements can’t be trans located and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the root-zone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Trans-location is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins; most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulphur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.

http://muextension.missouri.edu

Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on un-flushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or over fertilization and improper drying/curing.[/QUOTE]
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Not really because ive gotten most of my info from people on here. I might be wrong and to each his own but this is what ive read that seemed like it was more accurate.
 

SlimJim503

Well-Known Member
Grow some of the same plant clones would be best to test then try both methods dont believe every thing you read or are told on here LEARN from your own experiences and use the knowledge given to you as only a guide line. Don't be a sheep!
 

DBGreenz

Member
You Straight Mane U gone end up with a smile on your face but it needs some more light a lil nutes for blooming i would say u r like 3-4 wks give her like 5 more maybe 6 but check this link out for some lights and things u might need there prices are resonable www.planetnatural.com keep up the good work and let me kno when u put some of that loud in the air...
 

BlazedMonkey

Well-Known Member
Grow some of the same plant clones would be best to test then try both methods dont believe every thing you read or are told on here LEARN from your own experiences and use the knowledge given to you as only a guide line. Don't be a sheep!
I agree :)
If someone has a link to there side by side grow i would be more than happy to read it.
 

tristynhawk

Well-Known Member
The main reason i don't feed up until harvest is a couple of years ago i grew a bucket plant and fed it clear up until harvest. IT was a beautiful plant around 6 zips from a 3 gallon bucket. But no matter how long i dried it the smoke would not burn properly you had to hold a flame to it.
 

SlimJim503

Well-Known Member
Im a light flusher and i use make it rain trough out my grows nothing but light colored ash smokes real real nice:-) Go to 1000bulbs.com they have 4 packs of 23w 2700k for 5.55 and 42w 2700k for under 3.00 also have 13w for 1.77 could get a 4 pack 4 42w and 5 13w for under 40 shipped then you would need Y socket adapters, outlet to socket adapters and power strips/surge protectors some clamping work lights with the reflectors 300w the ones with the porclein socket they are a little more money but better if your going to be running Y adapters so you can run more then 150w each light. Or HTGsupply.com has single 2ft T5's you can change from 6500k to 2700k and can link a bunch together they cost under 50 for two with reflectors those are bomb for side lighting. I just ordered a 150w HPS from HTG the one where the ballest is seprate from the hood stop by my grow here in a few weeks and i'll have it up and running hopefully i can do a deceant review on the light if the bugs dont get to my girls first. F summer hahahah:-) Oh most import is Zip ties thats how you secure your lights least how i do:-)
 
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