johnnycash
Active Member
No one for all 3. They just dont function the same
Maximum Yield
- Thread starter riddleme
- Start date
Illumination
New Member
I beg to differ kind sir:
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/organic-nitrogen.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/organic-potassium.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/organic-phosphorous.html
There are others as well...hope this helps
Namaste'
"A state licensed personal medical grow...Thank you"
Unclejoe51
Member
Our local grow shop gives away Maximum Yield for free every month. I agree, lots of good info. But, I've also found that every grow is different & I'm always looking for the best way to increase my yields. I've stuck with the Ionic- Grow, Boost & Bloom but now also use the FF- Open Sesame & Beastie Bloomz and like to finish with H&G Shooting Powder. No complaints so far !!!!!!!
moash
New Member
what do u mean?
dont typical feedings occur at the root zone?
i dont comprehend,i thought P is mobile
xivex
Active Member
Love max yield and urban garden. Pick em up at local hydro store each visit. Both mags post all their articles online so you can read them even if you dont get the mags. Just google it. Learned tons from both of these publications. Specifically loved all the co2 articles max yield has put out as well as the vapor pressure deficit in plant leaves written by urban garden (see my journal entry for it). Allows you to use a laser temp gun to check plant leaf temps and use that plus current room temp to determine proper humidity levels based on the vpd of plant leaves. Great stuff!
Truly showed me how to manage humidity levels in veg, and that i needed to be running much higher rH % levels than i was...think 70s instead of 50-60rH%. Of course it depends on ambient room air temps, but for me it was around 75%rH
X
Truly showed me how to manage humidity levels in veg, and that i needed to be running much higher rH % levels than i was...think 70s instead of 50-60rH%. Of course it depends on ambient room air temps, but for me it was around 75%rH
X
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
It quickly gets locked up in native soil, chemically transformed into a salt that the plant is incapable of taking up especially in calcareous soils. In potting soil, you're OK, if outdoors, something like superphosphate really needs to be mixed with native soil. Mychorizzial fungi help with the chelation of P.
Completely incorrect and I cant imagine why you are bothering to post such utter nonsense.
j420man
Member
good read riddleme 
i am a caregiver in colorado as well as for the temp question this has been my experience . my grow has 1500 ppm co2 all day and the temps hit around 92 at the peak of the day. i do notice even at 92 the plants don't get heat stress at all.that being said i run the same in the winter and my room temps are 78.and they seem to yield about 10% more but the quality is the same.thats in both the veg and bloom rooms . and also i use sealed rooms no air in or out . in summer fall winter spring without co2 my yield was half and my potency went down. i grow soil in the summer and hydro the rest of the year.in both mediums my buds are a little less dense when grown in 92 degree room .so i honestly think 85-88 degrees is optimum with 1500 co2 . but temps are only one part of the whole .i think nutes and lights are much more important.if a person uses co2 but doesnt have at least a 600 hps i'm not sure it would be worth using .if a grower adds the co2 but doesnt increase nutes it wont do any good ass well.so a lot of light and nutes are more important factors in my experience. but temps will always be an important factor when it comes to density and smell and resin .at 92 degrees i keep my humidity at 35% with a dehumidifier. im sure humidity is also an important factor at least as important as temps .
i am a caregiver in colorado as well as for the temp question this has been my experience . my grow has 1500 ppm co2 all day and the temps hit around 92 at the peak of the day. i do notice even at 92 the plants don't get heat stress at all.that being said i run the same in the winter and my room temps are 78.and they seem to yield about 10% more but the quality is the same.thats in both the veg and bloom rooms . and also i use sealed rooms no air in or out . in summer fall winter spring without co2 my yield was half and my potency went down. i grow soil in the summer and hydro the rest of the year.in both mediums my buds are a little less dense when grown in 92 degree room .so i honestly think 85-88 degrees is optimum with 1500 co2 . but temps are only one part of the whole .i think nutes and lights are much more important.if a person uses co2 but doesnt have at least a 600 hps i'm not sure it would be worth using .if a grower adds the co2 but doesnt increase nutes it wont do any good ass well.so a lot of light and nutes are more important factors in my experience. but temps will always be an important factor when it comes to density and smell and resin .at 92 degrees i keep my humidity at 35% with a dehumidifier. im sure humidity is also an important factor at least as important as temps .
Malus420
Active Member
Just a question mate or two, I read through the whole thread a couple of times and I was wondering a couple of things. I understand that throughout the flowering phase it is suggested to maintain an N-P-K ratio of 1:1:1 asides a P:K boost of 2:1 on the first week and 1:2 one the last before the flush. The thing is that I can't find any organic nutrients where I live with ratios close to that so I made some calculations of combining my Biobizz bloom and grow to achieve a similar to 1:1:1 ratio. The thing is with the extra P:K doses, should I just mix to a 1:3:2 ratio for the first week and 1:2:3 for the last and add some micro nuts or epsom salts or molasses or something? I also have a bottle of PK13/14 and a Bloombastic that I think has a 0-20-20 ratio or something similar...
Also what about the fact that supposedly we need to create a N deficiency for late flowering in order for the plant to utilize it's storage, will those ratios suffice and if not will the last 10 days to 2 weeks of flushing be enough for that reason? Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Also what about the fact that supposedly we need to create a N deficiency for late flowering in order for the plant to utilize it's storage, will those ratios suffice and if not will the last 10 days to 2 weeks of flushing be enough for that reason? Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Forget everything you've read in pot forums as much of it is not correct and goes against the laws of botany.Just a question mate or two, I read through the whole thread a couple of times and I was wondering a couple of things. I understand that throughout the flowering phase it is suggested to maintain an N-P-K ratio of 1:1:1 asides a P:K boost of 2:1 on the first week and 1:2 one the last before the flush. The thing is that I can't find any organic nutrients where I live with ratios close to that so I made some calculations of combining my Biobizz bloom and grow to achieve a similar to 1:1:1 ratio. The thing is with the extra P:K doses, should I just mix to a 1:3:2 ratio for the first week and 1:2:3 for the last and add some micro nuts or epsom salts or molasses or something? I also have a bottle of PK13/14 and a Bloombastic that I think has a 0-20-20 ratio or something similar...
Also what about the fact that supposedly we need to create a N deficiency for late flowering in order for the plant to utilize it's storage, will those ratios suffice and if not will the last 10 days to 2 weeks of flushing be enough for that reason? Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Growing is not black and white...... you don't give them such and such during some week 2, 3 or so, that is noobie talk parroted by forum members, vendor salesmen, charts and such. Your goal is to produce and maintain the most amount of healthy root mass and green foliage you can until harvest.
One of the biggest pot forum myths is creating a N deficiency at any time. You tell me, why would you want to defoliate your plant just when it needs those simple carbos, proteins, etc. the most? If the plant needs more N during week 7 of flowering to retain leaves, then that's what you do, give it more N.
Think outside of the (popular forum) box, learn what makes a plant tick, and you'll be fine.
UB
Malus420
Active Member
Thanks for this mate, I guess back to experimenting then. I prefer it that way anyway, I'm just fishing around ideas to experiment with not sticking to any rules or charts btw!
uncle.duke
Member
BUmp!!! Bump!!!
Sampson pimpson
New Member
Thank you, it's not actually that bad of a task to just read it. My Mary is my lady... can't do much to please her...kinda like any other chick, lol... but if I can't do it with my charm and monster dong... im willing to be educated and learn how to knock her boots. Thanks for the knowledge pimpin' respect. Curious, I've just started 12/12 and own the foxfarm growbig ive applied, along with a still unused jacks blossom booster 10-30-20 I've heard great stuff about this soluble booster... I assume to wait for the jacks to be applied, but when I introduce it, should I use part grow big and part jacks blossom booster? You have supplemented my knowledge greatly and again thank you, but I am learning it seems best as a diluted mixture of both. 2 plants (12/12) using ff growbig under 7 (13w) 1200lumens each, kelvin 2700k as well as 1 (68w) 4200 lumens kelvin 2700k not a hot room by any means... temps day 75/ night 68/72 degrees. The true meaning of life is to plant trees, under whose shade you do not expect to sit - Nelson Henderson