trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
...check out this strain ---> http://www.cannabis-seeds-bank.co.uk/dinafem-seeds-critical-/prod_49.html
It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Cheers pal, but after a research I've found that its maturing too late for me. People says that 65-70 days is perfect for this strain. Maybe it is difficult to find this fast maturing pheno.
Anybody grew Endless Sky from Dr. Greenthumb in SOG? (I read that Dr. Greenthumb has lost original parents so it is no longer quick flowering strain, takes ~70days as well ;/)
How about Pakistani Valley? Cant find too much info for this.
It is so fucking difficult to find proper strain.
trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
...really? I've been pullin'em down at 49 days for a couple years now....you can view post # 446 of this very thread to view the preharvest shots. The first pic is Dinafem's," Critical+" @ day 48. The 3rd pic is of Barney's farms, "Blue Cheese"....both do really well in a sog, imo. World of Seeds, "Northern Lights x Big Bud" and their "Northern Lights x Skunk" are rewarding also....PPP (Pure Power Plant) is another one I like....but my all time favorite would have to be, Sensi Seeds, "Big Bud". Good luck....
Are you remember average table/plant yield from strains which you offered to me? Which one was more potent? I am looking for strain which will give me at least average ounce of potent weed per plant in SOG like Al's or similar.
BTW nice setup, those NLxSkunk buds looks awsome.
Thanks for patience.
HydroDawg421
Well-Known Member
Tell more more about Big Bud. I have 10 beans I intend to use for my 2nd grow. I'm 2 weeks in to veg on 8 Swiss Cheese now. I run a 6 site DWC using House & Garden nutes, 1000w, CO2, etc . . .
trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
HydroDawg421
Well-Known Member
How many plants are in those pics?
tenthirty
Well-Known Member
Please..........Give us all the details!
al i got a couple clones in my aero cloner that have been in there over 3 weeks and they havent rooted. i took the clones late in flower from a real sick plant. there slowly yellowing and i feel like if i do nothing they will eventually die without rooting. is there any thing i can do now that can kick them into gear and make them root? if they die i might lose my new mom forever so its kind of important. just to add i dont know if this was a good idea but i just took them out of the cloner and soaked them in gel for 15 minutes and i never cut the bottom of the stem open or scraped it from the start like you do cause i just found out about it
trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
...approx 60 ladies under 2- 600 HPS.....I pulled 2-1/2 lbs on that run
tenthirty
Well-Known Member
That is sweet!!...approx 60 ladies under 2- 600 HPS.....I pulled 2-1/2 lbs on that run
davidgrimm
Active Member
subscribed
Shwagbag
Well-Known Member
Hey Trichome Fiend, you running PPP currently? That is one of my all time favorite strains! I've always thought it would be perfect for SoG too! I've tried Big Bud, didn't have the potency I was looking for. The buds were huge and nice looking but the buzz wasn't there with the genetics I have.
liMes vaiDs
Member
I wouldn't have much hope for your girls, but I remember Al saying that if your clones are not rooting and there is rot you can make another cut above the rot and re-dip in hormone and try again. good luck. Back up plan?
liMes vaiDs
Member
Hey Al, thanks for everything. I have learned a lot reading through this thread. Thank you for writing in a very easy to understand, grammatically correct manner; digging through threads of idiots writing in some kind of stoned speak has me not using the internet much for research.
The only thing I could add to this thread would be the discrepancy in PPM. I'm surprised that for all the metric measurements you champion (and I love that), that you use PPM as your measurement and not EC.
"
PPM Conversion Factors
Not all TDS meters will give the same PPM reading. The main reason for this is that different meters will use different conversion factors. These conversion factors are based off the EC reading. For example: A meter that uses a conversion factor of 0.5 will display a reading of 0.5 times that of the EC reading. If the EC reading is 1000 µS then the ppm reading will be 500 ppm. It is as simple as multiplying 1000 by the conversion factor of 0.5. If the meter uses a conversion factor of 0.7 (the most common conversion factor used) then 1000 µS would be 700 ppm (1000 x 0.7). When purchasing a TDS meter it is very important to find out what the correct conversion factor is for the meter. It could make a difference of more than 200 ppm! Not only is it important to know what the conversion factor for the meter is, it is also important to know the conversion factor of the calibration solution. Generally speaking, Genesis calibration solutions are for meters that use a 0.7 conversion factor and the Hanna solutions are for meters with a 0.5 conversion factor."
so, not that it matters for most people, but I had a problem years ago when I was burning plants at 1000ppm, only to learn the conversion factor of my meter was .5, which would be 1400ppm@.7 conversion. clearly, this was my mistake, but it is one that I feel could happen to many people if it happened to me. I have a strong science background- B.S. in chemistry. since then I only look at the EC, I haven't even thought about PPM in a couple years.
since EC has no conversion factor it makes the communication of how strong your nutrient solution is standardized, assuming your meter corrects for temperature. Like you I have found that running a lower EC/PPM increases yield as less is more. Once leaves are burned, even just the tips, you have done damage. Stay low to stay high. I run 1350uS EC, or 950PPM@.7 conversion.
Thanks for all your time and effort, it is very appreciated.
The only thing I could add to this thread would be the discrepancy in PPM. I'm surprised that for all the metric measurements you champion (and I love that), that you use PPM as your measurement and not EC.
"
PPM Conversion Factors
Not all TDS meters will give the same PPM reading. The main reason for this is that different meters will use different conversion factors. These conversion factors are based off the EC reading. For example: A meter that uses a conversion factor of 0.5 will display a reading of 0.5 times that of the EC reading. If the EC reading is 1000 µS then the ppm reading will be 500 ppm. It is as simple as multiplying 1000 by the conversion factor of 0.5. If the meter uses a conversion factor of 0.7 (the most common conversion factor used) then 1000 µS would be 700 ppm (1000 x 0.7). When purchasing a TDS meter it is very important to find out what the correct conversion factor is for the meter. It could make a difference of more than 200 ppm! Not only is it important to know what the conversion factor for the meter is, it is also important to know the conversion factor of the calibration solution. Generally speaking, Genesis calibration solutions are for meters that use a 0.7 conversion factor and the Hanna solutions are for meters with a 0.5 conversion factor."
so, not that it matters for most people, but I had a problem years ago when I was burning plants at 1000ppm, only to learn the conversion factor of my meter was .5, which would be 1400ppm@.7 conversion. clearly, this was my mistake, but it is one that I feel could happen to many people if it happened to me. I have a strong science background- B.S. in chemistry. since then I only look at the EC, I haven't even thought about PPM in a couple years.
since EC has no conversion factor it makes the communication of how strong your nutrient solution is standardized, assuming your meter corrects for temperature. Like you I have found that running a lower EC/PPM increases yield as less is more. Once leaves are burned, even just the tips, you have done damage. Stay low to stay high. I run 1350uS EC, or 950PPM@.7 conversion.
Thanks for all your time and effort, it is very appreciated.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
You need to familiarise yourself with some basic electrical concepts. The most important is the current carrying capacity of the house wiring and any cabling or connectors you use to run all your stuff. Current is expressed in Amperes (often abbreviated amps). All devices intended for use with AC mains electricity will be labelled with the amount of current the device will consume or will carry.
The device may also be marked with the power consumption or power carrying capacity, measured in Watts. Power (in Watts) = Current x Voltage. A device that runs on a 240V mains voltage that draws 1 Amp can be said to be using 240 watts. A device running on 120V that draws 2A is also consuming 240W.
House wiring is divided up into several circuits or daisy-chains of power point outlets. Each chain or 'circuit' has its own circuit breaker (or fuse, in very old houses). Circuit breakers disconnect the mains power when the load has exceeded the rating of the breaker. The bedrooms may be on one circuit breaker, the kitchen on another, the laundry on another, the water heater on its own circuit, etc. This is why you have several circuit breakers in your home's breaker box.
I am in Australia, where the AC voltage at household power points is 240V. Much of what I'll discuss will be based on 240V wiring, but it applies also for 120V mains as used in the US, Canada, Mexico, Japan, etc.
Most 120V residential wiring also provide 220 or 240V for high power appliances like electric stoves, water heaters, clothes dryers, etc. The reason for 220/240 service is that when you need to deliver a large amount of power (in watts) to a device, remember that Power = Current x Voltage. When voltage is halved, current must be doubled. If you are running a 1000W load on 240V, it will draw about 4.1A. A 1000W load on 120V will draw 8.2A. Current carrying capacity is dependent upon the diameter of the wires. Thicker wires can carry more current. Thin, smaller gauge wires tend to get warm when you draw too much current through them. However, if you double the voltage, the current is cut by half to deliver the same wattage. Growers in the US may wish to install a 220/240V line from the breaker box into the op and buy lighting to suit that voltage.
In residential house wiring, most of the individual circuits are designed for operating low power devices like lighting and small appliances. The rating for lightly loaded ckts as such is usually somewhere around 8 - 15A. Everything you connect to a ckt adds to the load on that ckt. A 1000W HPS lamp will usually pull about 4.6A on 240V (there's about .5A loss in the ballast, which leaves the ballast as heat). An oscillating fan may draw about 60W, or .25A (250 milliamps, or 250mA) for 240V mains. To determine the load you're placing on a ckt, simply add up all the amperage figures on all the devices you connect.
To avoid overloading a ckt, the load connected must be lower than the rating of the ckt breaker. For best reliability and safety, I recommend that you do not load a ckt to more than 80% of its capacity; in example, don't put more than an 8A load on a 10A ckt. This assures that the wiring and connectors will run cool and thus with a high margin of safety.
Bear in mind that some devices like HPS lighting have a very high current draw on startup but then settle back to a lower current draw once warmed up. A 1000W HPS may pull 6.5A when striking the arc and warming up but then will fall back to about 4.6A. For this reason, you could not put two 1000s on a single 10A ckt, even though their combined running current (9.2A) would be less than 10A. Even if you stagger the start times by about 5 mins, if one lamp is warmed up and running at 4.6A, when the other lamp starts, it may be pulling 6.5- the combined draw from both lamps, one running, one starting, will be about 11.1A- which will likely trip the 10A breaker.
Use of extension cords is not a good idea with high-power devices like lighting due to the highly variable quality of the connectors and assembly work. A lot of cheap Chinese extension leads, despite carrying UL or other safety certification insignia, are poorly made and use substandard connectors. If you must use an extension cord for high power devices, it's best to buy heavy-duty plugs & sockets and assemble them yourself to cable of known quality and wire gauge.
For the greatest degree of safety, run a dedicated cable from your breaker box to the op. Install a breaker specifically for the op. Use standard flexible house wiring cable, often called Romex. Make a power distribution board with high-quality power point outlets mounted on a plywood panel, which you can hang high above the floor, away from any potential water splash areas. Keep all cabling off the floor.
Surge suppressors are not generally useful in a grow op. They're good for protecting sensitive low power electronics from line surges, but the stuff you'll use in a grow op is not normally susceptible to damage from line surges. However, Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters or GFCIs, do have a purpose in grow ops. GFCIs detect current leaking into the ground lead- this can be caused by water intrusion into a device or wiring or by an insulation fault. GFCIs will cut current flow to a device if an unsafe condition is detected.
Noice work. Looks like you're keeping the branches well pruned. That will be a nice crop....Hi Al!...I thought you and viewers may like to gander at the progress....this is PPP (pure power plant) the first 3 weeks of flowering from clone....
I'm a little concerned about the complete covering of the grow media with panda film; this might cause conditions in the rootzone which may favour anaerobic bacteria, potentially causing root rot. It may also restrict the entry of oxygen to the roots. This isn't an aeroponic grow by any chance, is it?
I'm not the best person to ask about specific strains- I've been using Sweet Tooth #4 and nothing else for the last 9 years. The best strains to use in SoG are indica dominant hybrids; these feature quick maturation, high yield and short stature on maturity.
Hmm, sounds OK. If you're getting good root formation and no root rot issues, it's fine....good day Distiller! I like the setup!...I fill my fence post with rocks to prevent moisture issues....I cover my tables with panda poly and grow in netted pots, which new air enters through and bypasses the roots as the table drains....this has been the most productive technique for me, I wouldn't trump my words over Al's, I'm a lifelong pupil.
You can recut & try again, provided only the tip is rotted and there's no rot travelled up the stem.
Thanks for that. I'm accustomed to using the Bluelab Truncheon meter which reads directly in ppm. If anyone cares to convert my figures from the Truncheon into EC, they're always free to do so.
thanks for the response. yeah im already expecting them to die. what would it look like on the bottom of the stem if there was rot though?
trichome fiend
Well-Known Member
...thankx! ...and again for the concern. My technique atm, the ladies go from the ezcloner into 3" netted pots filled with growrocks only, which is put into the fence post filled with growrocks....flood and drain.Noice work. Looks like you're keeping the branches well pruned. That will be a nice crop.
I'm a little concerned about the complete covering of the grow media with panda film; this might cause conditions in the rootzone which may favour anaerobic bacteria, potentially causing root rot. It may also restrict the entry of oxygen to the roots. This isn't an aeroponic grow by any chance, is it?
...I cover the tables/medium with panda poly because I was having fungi growth on the uppermost layer of the rocks
....I have holes/slits in the poly where the medium is located....they seem to like it, and the poly seemed to help lower RH levels a bit....I'll keep your words in my mind for a future experiment....really glad to have you on the boards 