One man and his bush - 1 plant SCROG in Stealth Cab - Chocolate Berry
- Thread starter lilindian
- Start date
CampUnderDog
Active Member
I think you should leave some leaf and popcorns on her... and reveg...
maariic
Active Member
I think he cut off all popcorns!
slipperydip
Member
Amazing showcase of skill man, kudos to you =D
POUND TOWN
Well-Known Member
found this on a forum and saved it. dunno who wrote it
Drying is the most key part of the whole smell and flavor department,
not flush.
Smell and flavor are related to the chloraphyl in the plant matter, while
the harshness, and burning of the throat and lungs is described when
smoking herb which hasn't been flushed properly.
You need to allow all of the chloraphyl to release while drying, but the problem
is that chloraphyl is only released at a certain rate, which is much slower
than water is allowed to release,you must allow adequate time to dry, and
the humidity needs to be around 35-45%, this allows the buds to stay moist
long enough to allow the chloraphyl to escape. It should take around 8 days
for the stem between the buds to be dry enough to snap when bent.
Tips:
Do not cut up individual branches when harvesting and hanging, this
allows the moisture to escape too quickly!
Do not trim the buds of their leaves before they are completely dried,
this also allows moisture to escape. Also this is KEY for the curing process,
a properly dried bud will smell MAGNIFICENT right after it is done being
trimmed. Trimming allows the terpenes to really expose themselves and
this causes excess moisture within the leaves and buds to allow the bud
to "sweat" and this is needs to happen right before the buds are jarred,
if you do this before you dry them, what happens to the terpenes? They are
released in to the air and dissipate, you need to do this before you jar them
and then the buds sit and bask in their own dankness..... This is how the
curing process begins. The dispenseries here in boulder buy my meds the
same day that I trim them because they smell as if they have already been
cured, but really, they were dried properly.
this is how i plan on drying my bush
Someguy15
Well-Known Member
It is more work, but true story right there.
MojoResin
Member
I don't know about this whole chlorOphyl degredation and taste being tied to the rate of moisture escape thing, but I do like the idea of not trimming off too many leaves until you start the cure. Because that means less time spent worrying about it right when you chop. Now that time is pushed off to the jarring process but it is not eliminated entirely. So if it results in a better end product then why the hell not.
My internal BS-o-meter thinks it needs a proper side by side test to settle the chlorophyl question though.
-------------------------
Test Parameters:
-------------------------
2 small batches of buds of similar weight and size from the same plant are sectioned off.
Leave both sets relatively un-trimmed until right before they are jarred to cure. No heat sources are applied to either set at any time.
One set is dried in the open (perhaps fan circulated) air and the other with fan-forced air ducted through a separate drying and dessicant chamber. The forced air one will dry days faster, so it will begin to cure days faster as well. Give the open air one as long as it needs to dry to a point similar to that at which you began the cure on the forced air batch.
However; when each is dry enough, go ahead and trim it and place it in jars to cure it. When they are both cured (however long you feel like waiting), smoke them.
If the chlorophyl theory is correct, the one dried with forced air should smoke "harshly" and have a more "cholorphylly" (sure it's a word) taste because the moisture escaped much faster in the beginning.
If the chlorophyl theory is incorrect, both will smoke pretty much the same or have negligible differences.
No worries mon', I'm on it.
My internal BS-o-meter thinks it needs a proper side by side test to settle the chlorophyl question though.
-------------------------
Test Parameters:
-------------------------
2 small batches of buds of similar weight and size from the same plant are sectioned off.
Leave both sets relatively un-trimmed until right before they are jarred to cure. No heat sources are applied to either set at any time.
One set is dried in the open (perhaps fan circulated) air and the other with fan-forced air ducted through a separate drying and dessicant chamber. The forced air one will dry days faster, so it will begin to cure days faster as well. Give the open air one as long as it needs to dry to a point similar to that at which you began the cure on the forced air batch.
However; when each is dry enough, go ahead and trim it and place it in jars to cure it. When they are both cured (however long you feel like waiting), smoke them.
If the chlorophyl theory is correct, the one dried with forced air should smoke "harshly" and have a more "cholorphylly" (sure it's a word) taste because the moisture escaped much faster in the beginning.
If the chlorophyl theory is incorrect, both will smoke pretty much the same or have negligible differences.
No worries mon', I'm on it.
idontlikesociety
Well-Known Member
I can't wait till tomorrow!
ÒÒlegilizeitÒÒ
Well-Known Member
looks like a big ass field lol
crazymanny00
Active Member
its gonna be so dense... so dense
lilindian
Well-Known Member
I don't have the space to keep her
Plus i'm not a believer in Re-vegging plants, just dont think its worth it, even with this one. When her time comes i'm probably gona burry her skeleton in someones garden, give the birds something to jam on u know.
If only i was harvesting her before christmas! I dont even think we got one this year...
Correct!
Thanks man, nice to see my creation has reached the opposite side of the world! Gotta love the internet!
Came across this in your thread, and i instantly copied and pasted it onto my profile clipboard thing, first time i've used it! Anyway i agree with pretty much all that post, drying and curing correctly makes the most insane difference to bud, people never really do their grows justice unless they see the drying and curing just as much of an art as the initial growing! Plus that flavour i'm seeking can only really be achieved with a good solid cure, i'm talking 3 months minimum.
I recently heard from a fairly reliable source that in amsterdam, they dry their bud for 3 weeks, before sticking it into paper bags for 5-6 MONTHS! Something to think about.....
To this day i wonder how they bring the taste out of the buds so well, i always put it down to them having access to certain pheno's, but now i think its down to them being able to grow so much, that they can afford to cure bud for 6 months before going on public sale...
The middle of this canopy IS a solid block of bud. At the start of this grow i doubted if this would even be possible..
gingerbuddha
Active Member
The way i see it (in regards to drying) you already waited 2-4 months for the buds to be ready, whats another week or so to PROPERLY dry/cure them? I mean after all you can quick dry one nug if you really are in need of some smoke ^_^
forgetiwashere
Well-Known Member
so what everyone on this sight refers to on this sight as cring is really just performing a "slow dry"
curing actually occurs before the drying process when done properly
"Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana is to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass."
this info was taken from
"the marijuana growers guide by mel frank and ed rosenthal"
maybe this is what they do in the dam to get there awesome flavour. maybe that is why barneys always seems to win the cannabis cup, they might simply have there cure down pat so there flavour is the best while maintaning the most thc. good curing and drying practices could account for alot
curing actually occurs before the drying process when done properly
"Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.
There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.
Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.
Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.
After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.
Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.
A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.
With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.
Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.
Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.
Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.
Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.
A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.
Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana is to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.
Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.
THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.
Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass."
this info was taken from
"the marijuana growers guide by mel frank and ed rosenthal"
maybe this is what they do in the dam to get there awesome flavour. maybe that is why barneys always seems to win the cannabis cup, they might simply have there cure down pat so there flavour is the best while maintaning the most thc. good curing and drying practices could account for alot
gingerbuddha
Active Member
very informative, not gonna quote it since it will take up so much space lol.
forgetiwashere
Well-Known Member
i think in my first grow im going to try one jar of bud in an old fishtank i have then i can control the heat with the tank heater. they sound risky mould wise
lilindian
Well-Known Member
Engineers Dream F2 REGULAR
Flowering : Photoperiod
Genetics : Casey Jones (OG Thai, Trainwreck, Sour Diesel) x DPQ (Deep Purple x Querkle)
Flowering Time : Long
Outdoor Harvest : sept/Oct
Height : Medium
THC Level : High
We were lucky enough to be given a clone of the Casey Jones High Times Cannabis Cup entry from DevilsHarvestSeeds. Taking third place in the HTCC was a bit of an underestimation of the greatness of this cross, in our opinion. It has vigour, a short flowering period, a complex set of aromas (sour, sweet, herby, floral) and it is a really easy plant to grow. It is a relatively hungry beast but, in our experience, tells you just before it is finishing that it has had enough. The fan leaves start yellowing as it sucks up the energy in a thirsty race to finish itself off.
The DPQ male that we have used for our DPQ F2s just adds the most amazing amount of trichomes to anything you cross it with. With the Casey Jones already being very resinous and frosty, with the benefits of the DPQs genetics added to the fray we knew we were going to end up with something special. Although the Casey Jones has really nice finishing colours (reds, purples, dark greens), if left outside to finish with sufficient temperature drops (15 degree plus), when cured the bud will still be the traditional colur without those purple tinges to it.
With adding the DPQ into the mix there is now a natural Purple pheno of the Engineers Dream as well as a more traditional Casey-leaning pheno. Bud calyxes on the phenos just explode with growth towards the end, creating large dome-like calyxes that protrude out of the bud, making them look like some sort of medieval weapon. Excellent yielders with time to veg and also if put into flower from 12/12 (the flowering ladies will produce more than 1 oz each in this method SOG).
The high from the Purple pheno again is energetic but also narcotic, whereas the Casey-leaning pheno with more autumn colours to the finished product evokes a high that will have you giggling and laughing without being sure of why you started. The Engineers Dream has deep flavours with all the genetics having their own little stamp on the taste and smell. The Casey pheno is sweeter on the nose and the darker pheno has more sour and deep spicy tones. A plant that will be sure to power your Engine either way.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Strawberry Sour Diesel (T-Light) FEMINIZED
Flowering : Photoperiod
Genetics : Strawberry Cough x Original Sour Diesel
Flowering Time : Medium
Height : Medium
THC Level : Med-High
For the connoisseurs out there or those with a constant eye out for a new powerhouse strain to enhance their collection, the Strawberry Original F2 should not be missed. Straight out of the history books, the Strawberry Cough (Kyle Kushman) and Original Sour Diesel were united in order to extract the very best from both strains. Around nine weeks flowering will bring you a batch of super strong buds packed with juicy strawberry flavour, but retaining the hard impact and floatiness of the old-school Kush. This Strain was the unofficial winner of the 2011 hightimes cup.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
New Blue Diesel REGULAR
Type: Indica dominant Hybride
Flowering time 8-9 weeks
Harvest: upto 450 gram/m2(indoor)
Taste: Diesel coverd in berry's
Effect: strong combie of high and stoned
Flowers: colorfull and full of thc
THC: Percentage up to 20%
(Blueberry Indica / NYCD)
The NYCD is loved all over the world for here taste and smell but sannie thinks he can improve this by making this New Blue Diesel. A combination of the nycd and the blueberry indica will provide a taste explosion that you will not forget soon. On top of this will a fair part be coloring from green/pink up to full Blue. The leafs will stay green.
The mother that is used in this cross is the Blueberry Indica which will provide the fruity part of the NBD,beside's this she will give some extra potency and less leafs. because of the stron indica influence's she will reduce the flowering time's to 8-9 weeks.
The used father in this cross is the same that is used for our nycd f3 and shall provide the taste and diesel smell. This dude is outstanding beautifull end smells alot, this combined with the BBI will give a combination which is made in heaven.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sugar Punch Feminized
Type: Sativa dominante hybrid
Flowering time 9-10 weeks
Harvest: Upto 600 gram/m2(indoor)
Taste: Sweet combi of caramel, grapefruit and lemon
Effect: Strong almost narcotic stoned/high
Flowers: Medium long sativa like buds
THC: Percentage up to 24%
SSH X The One
Sometimes a feminized cross can give benefits for a breeders, just like the Sugar Punch. In this cross the advantages from both parents are really floating to the surface and enhance each other positive characters. Old school power combined in a sugar coated bud.
Super Silver Haze is a elite clone which we are using for a while now and she proved herself time after time to see in the Shackzilla. The One (mother of killing fields and madonna) also fits this description, but she is more sweet and has a more narcotic high. Both parents are strong and sweet plants, this is why we choose the name Sugar Punch.
With a flowering time from around the 9-10 weeks she is a perfect hybrid, she is a strong growing plant. 9 plants op 1 m2 with around one week vegetation time should do the trick, more plants you need less veg time and less plants need more veg time. Sugar Punch is a good yielding plant with some of the best top quality smoke you will have ever experienced.
In this cross there some colored pheno's to find but the majority is green covered in trichomes and harsh, sweet like candy but with the experience of a sledge hammer. Dreamy and distracted are some features of the Sugar Punch, flying on a pink carpet through the day
This is a must have for the taste lovers which appreciate strong weed.
Flowering : Photoperiod
Genetics : Casey Jones (OG Thai, Trainwreck, Sour Diesel) x DPQ (Deep Purple x Querkle)
Flowering Time : Long
Outdoor Harvest : sept/Oct
Height : Medium
THC Level : High
We were lucky enough to be given a clone of the Casey Jones High Times Cannabis Cup entry from DevilsHarvestSeeds. Taking third place in the HTCC was a bit of an underestimation of the greatness of this cross, in our opinion. It has vigour, a short flowering period, a complex set of aromas (sour, sweet, herby, floral) and it is a really easy plant to grow. It is a relatively hungry beast but, in our experience, tells you just before it is finishing that it has had enough. The fan leaves start yellowing as it sucks up the energy in a thirsty race to finish itself off.
The DPQ male that we have used for our DPQ F2s just adds the most amazing amount of trichomes to anything you cross it with. With the Casey Jones already being very resinous and frosty, with the benefits of the DPQs genetics added to the fray we knew we were going to end up with something special. Although the Casey Jones has really nice finishing colours (reds, purples, dark greens), if left outside to finish with sufficient temperature drops (15 degree plus), when cured the bud will still be the traditional colur without those purple tinges to it.
With adding the DPQ into the mix there is now a natural Purple pheno of the Engineers Dream as well as a more traditional Casey-leaning pheno. Bud calyxes on the phenos just explode with growth towards the end, creating large dome-like calyxes that protrude out of the bud, making them look like some sort of medieval weapon. Excellent yielders with time to veg and also if put into flower from 12/12 (the flowering ladies will produce more than 1 oz each in this method SOG).
The high from the Purple pheno again is energetic but also narcotic, whereas the Casey-leaning pheno with more autumn colours to the finished product evokes a high that will have you giggling and laughing without being sure of why you started. The Engineers Dream has deep flavours with all the genetics having their own little stamp on the taste and smell. The Casey pheno is sweeter on the nose and the darker pheno has more sour and deep spicy tones. A plant that will be sure to power your Engine either way.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Strawberry Sour Diesel (T-Light) FEMINIZED
Flowering : Photoperiod
Genetics : Strawberry Cough x Original Sour Diesel
Flowering Time : Medium
Height : Medium
THC Level : Med-High
For the connoisseurs out there or those with a constant eye out for a new powerhouse strain to enhance their collection, the Strawberry Original F2 should not be missed. Straight out of the history books, the Strawberry Cough (Kyle Kushman) and Original Sour Diesel were united in order to extract the very best from both strains. Around nine weeks flowering will bring you a batch of super strong buds packed with juicy strawberry flavour, but retaining the hard impact and floatiness of the old-school Kush. This Strain was the unofficial winner of the 2011 hightimes cup.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
New Blue Diesel REGULAR
Type: Indica dominant Hybride
Flowering time 8-9 weeks
Harvest: upto 450 gram/m2(indoor)
Taste: Diesel coverd in berry's
Effect: strong combie of high and stoned
Flowers: colorfull and full of thc
THC: Percentage up to 20%
(Blueberry Indica / NYCD)
The NYCD is loved all over the world for here taste and smell but sannie thinks he can improve this by making this New Blue Diesel. A combination of the nycd and the blueberry indica will provide a taste explosion that you will not forget soon. On top of this will a fair part be coloring from green/pink up to full Blue. The leafs will stay green.
The mother that is used in this cross is the Blueberry Indica which will provide the fruity part of the NBD,beside's this she will give some extra potency and less leafs. because of the stron indica influence's she will reduce the flowering time's to 8-9 weeks.
The used father in this cross is the same that is used for our nycd f3 and shall provide the taste and diesel smell. This dude is outstanding beautifull end smells alot, this combined with the BBI will give a combination which is made in heaven.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sugar Punch Feminized
Type: Sativa dominante hybrid
Flowering time 9-10 weeks
Harvest: Upto 600 gram/m2(indoor)
Taste: Sweet combi of caramel, grapefruit and lemon
Effect: Strong almost narcotic stoned/high
Flowers: Medium long sativa like buds
THC: Percentage up to 24%
SSH X The One
Sometimes a feminized cross can give benefits for a breeders, just like the Sugar Punch. In this cross the advantages from both parents are really floating to the surface and enhance each other positive characters. Old school power combined in a sugar coated bud.
Super Silver Haze is a elite clone which we are using for a while now and she proved herself time after time to see in the Shackzilla. The One (mother of killing fields and madonna) also fits this description, but she is more sweet and has a more narcotic high. Both parents are strong and sweet plants, this is why we choose the name Sugar Punch.
With a flowering time from around the 9-10 weeks she is a perfect hybrid, she is a strong growing plant. 9 plants op 1 m2 with around one week vegetation time should do the trick, more plants you need less veg time and less plants need more veg time. Sugar Punch is a good yielding plant with some of the best top quality smoke you will have ever experienced.
In this cross there some colored pheno's to find but the majority is green covered in trichomes and harsh, sweet like candy but with the experience of a sledge hammer. Dreamy and distracted are some features of the Sugar Punch, flying on a pink carpet through the day
This is a must have for the taste lovers which appreciate strong weed.
HobbyGrower72
Well-Known Member
they all sound amazing!
lilindian
Well-Known Member
I know! The only problem is they're not all feminized.... Getting Females out the Regular ones is gona be tricky, gona have to properly plan out the vegging stage.
Rough plan... veg 3 of each regular seeded strains, take clones off all of them, root them, stick the 6 vegged plants into flower, find out the males/females, destroy males, keep females flowering whilst the other batch are vegging.
By this point i'd know the clones that were female, so id take them, and plant these together with the feminized seeds of the other strains, so they all grow to roughly the same size. Maybe even start germinating the feminized seeds a week early so they reach clone size before being planted all together.
Have no idea if i made any sense or not above but yeh!
kevin murphy
New Member
why dont u put all of em on 12/12 to root out the males and fems and then clone it from there