Let's Talk Ballasts

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
Figured out that the EMI is entering from the EC/Temp cord so I think a choke core on that wire close to the meter might be my best bet. Will test soon as I make it to radio shack.
Trust me when i say your better off using the ferrite on the power cable... the small ferrites are not to great @ eliminating EMI... Remember the ferrite has to be as close to the core as possible... buy a ferrite for the exact outer diameter of the cord... they CANNOT be loose!
Also you can buy a POWER RF FILTER or even RF fabric shielding http://www.lessemf.com/fabric.html I use this to make my back room a faraday cage. just remember to ground the fabric. You can even wrap your ballast without affecting it! all your RF problems will cease to exist!
 

Someguy15

Well-Known Member
by the power cord do you mean the cord from the ballast to the wall? or the cord from the ballast to the hood? I know they operate the lamp cord set at like 20,000 hz so I thought putting a filter made to filter high frequencies might be bad for the ballast. I am more for protecting the meter more so than eliminating the RF from the ballast as I feel the first is more easily accomplished.
 

Someguy15

Well-Known Member
Well, never did end up trying the choke on the cord. Bluelab decided my issue wasn't warranty-able but I learned the newer meters (shipping in the last 6 months) all have a GREY cord for the temp/ec probe that is now shielded. The old cord is WHITE, thinner and unshielded. Since Bluelab wasn't willing to help me out in anyway (besides telling me to move my ballast 15 feet away in a room that's 10x10 lol u do the math) I was considering selling the meter and getting a Hanna that is advertised digital ready (shielded). Luckily the store I buy my supplies from was awesome and salvaged me a temp/ec probe with a grey cord from a recent defective meter they were going to scrap. I'll provide a little info about the project here in case anyone else is ever stuck in my predicament.

The old cord (white casing) has 4 wires, White, Black, Red, and Blue

The new cord (grey casing) has 5 wires, White Black, Red, Green and a bare aluminum wire that is attached to the aluminum shielding

Obviously I was a bit confused as to why they would change the blue to green, but figured the other 3 must match up, not so. After some trial and error I figured out the correct pattern.

Old wire -> New wire
White --- Black
Black --- White
Red --- Red
Blue --- Green

The last problem I encountered was a lack of a grounding point for the shielding. I decided to just wrap it back around the wire and tape it off to ensure it made no contact with anything. I thought this may defeat the whole thing but to my suprise I have yet to see the errors I was in the past. Seems the aluminum shielding wrapped around the wires was really all that was needed.

The Bluelab Guardians are fixed now, so don't be worried about buying one, just be SURE it has the grey cord for the temp/ec probe before you buy. Online orders you might wanna call them up to be sure. If you have magnetic ballasts it doesn't matter, but even the best shielded digital ballast will still leak EMF interference from your lamp cord set, socket and bulb.
 

fishwhistle

Active Member
Ive had problems with lumatek and switched to quantum and in 1.5 years no problems but ill be giving the solisteks a try in my new room,ive heard their the shit.
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
by the power cord do you mean the cord from the ballast to the wall? or the cord from the ballast to the hood? I know they operate the lamp cord set at like 20,000 hz so I thought putting a filter made to filter high frequencies might be bad for the ballast. I am more for protecting the meter more so than eliminating the RF from the ballast as I feel the first is more easily accomplished.
Rf will run through ALL cabling and will be emitted from all cabling as well...
there are shielded cable you can buy online for a few $$ per foot you can retrofit the plug to the new cabling.
The ballast is producing the largest amount of RF due to its design and probably lack of ferrites.
 

torchq2

Active Member
Right on thanks for the info PJ. BTW i recieved my replacement ballast and the fit and finish was a little better on it(nob position, lettering) plus the endplates went from grey powdercoat to a shiny metal finish(more durable). but best of all no flicker and no more noise. Been running now for about 2 months and it fires my 600's well at both 400 and 600 setting, just about to try out some 1000 eye horti's. One thing I noticed, is it gets pretty warm sometimes on 120v 600w, but like with my old ballast i just mount it vertically and place a small(3") fan at the bottom blowing up through it and it keeps it just above room temp on the outter surface. not that it was scary hot or anything but with electronics the cooler it is the longer itll last.
 

Kaptain Kron

Well-Known Member
Quick q for anyone with a solis tek and a suns systems hood, it's plug and play right? No need for an adapter?
 
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