Headband PAR T5 µTent
- Thread starter overTHEman
- Start date
AssassinofYouth
Active Member
Looking awesome! I don't think I have the extra funding to use those bulbs for this round, I will be using 5@3000k 3@6500k. Your plant looks very happy with those bulbs, so definitely will use on my next flower
overTHEman
Active Member
maariic,
Thank you for swinging by! It's all under the T5s, they're low on electricity and heat. Ventilation is a breeze. The fixture and ballast aren't very high quality, a better fixture would mean less heat. The HPS setup you're using is tried and tested, you can't go wrong. However, let me point out that the internal spacing with these bulbs is VERY tight. This could benefit anyone concerned with stretching. Though I have not ran a screen from start to finish with these bulbs, the added benefit of not having to worry about light penetration is very appealing.
AssassinofYouth,
Thank you for the kind words. The aquarium bulbs are great, even if you get them one at a time - it's worth it. Pet supply stores often have them, keep an eye out for a decent bulb. The pr0fesseur recommends UVL and Korallen Zucht. Check out this thread if you haven't already: https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first.html
Thank you for swinging by! It's all under the T5s, they're low on electricity and heat. Ventilation is a breeze. The fixture and ballast aren't very high quality, a better fixture would mean less heat. The HPS setup you're using is tried and tested, you can't go wrong. However, let me point out that the internal spacing with these bulbs is VERY tight. This could benefit anyone concerned with stretching. Though I have not ran a screen from start to finish with these bulbs, the added benefit of not having to worry about light penetration is very appealing.
AssassinofYouth,
Thank you for the kind words. The aquarium bulbs are great, even if you get them one at a time - it's worth it. Pet supply stores often have them, keep an eye out for a decent bulb. The pr0fesseur recommends UVL and Korallen Zucht. Check out this thread if you haven't already: https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/358190-led-without-leds-my-first.html
overTHEman
Active Member
An Unfortunate Update
At lights on ms. headband looked alright; necrotic leaves are continuing to their end but at least the buds have grown. Overall, a happy plant for the circumstances. Something still didn't look right.
One KZ Fiji Purples burned out, ouch.
After replacing it with a 6,500k daylight bulb, I sent an email to ReefGeek to see what could be done. If it can be replaced, wonderful - i'll be ordering more bulbs soon anyway. However, this is the 31st day since receiving the bulbs, one day outside their return policy. My guess; they will direct me to Korallen Zucht for their replacement program.
Restoration of the PAR spectrum should occur sooner rather than later; bulb shopping will likely be tomorrow's activity.
At lights on ms. headband looked alright; necrotic leaves are continuing to their end but at least the buds have grown. Overall, a happy plant for the circumstances. Something still didn't look right.
One KZ Fiji Purples burned out, ouch.
After replacing it with a 6,500k daylight bulb, I sent an email to ReefGeek to see what could be done. If it can be replaced, wonderful - i'll be ordering more bulbs soon anyway. However, this is the 31st day since receiving the bulbs, one day outside their return policy. My guess; they will direct me to Korallen Zucht for their replacement program.
Restoration of the PAR spectrum should occur sooner rather than later; bulb shopping will likely be tomorrow's activity.
Sometimes I think maybe this is done on purpose to push me buying new one. But this can not be true. That would be conspiracy.overTHEman
Active Member
maariic,
Mobile phones are most definitely as scam. However, conspiracy = paranoia; after which a trip to the looney bin follows.
ReefGeek has not yet replied, as the west coast is a few hours behind.
The 22" fiji purples are not locally available; making replacement difficult. During the search, I stumbled upon a local pet store with a diverse range of products and knowledgeable employees. The man in charge of aquarium lighting can order any quantity of UVL, WavePoint, ATI, and KZ bulbs; he just needs a week's notice.
Generally, they stock CoraLife and a few UVL/ATI bulbs in the 22" size. The spectrum of the CoraLife ColorMax is similar to the supposed output of the Fiji Purple and for a total of $14, is likely an appropriate temporary replacement. The 14w Normal Output ColorMax was the only one available. It can be overdriven to the 24w High Output, it will just degrade more quickly (the pr0fesseur agrees). This bulb will be used until something can be worked out with ReefGeek.
I'll toss up a pic once the bulb is installed at lights on.
Mobile phones are most definitely as scam. However, conspiracy = paranoia; after which a trip to the looney bin follows.
ReefGeek has not yet replied, as the west coast is a few hours behind.
The 22" fiji purples are not locally available; making replacement difficult. During the search, I stumbled upon a local pet store with a diverse range of products and knowledgeable employees. The man in charge of aquarium lighting can order any quantity of UVL, WavePoint, ATI, and KZ bulbs; he just needs a week's notice.
Generally, they stock CoraLife and a few UVL/ATI bulbs in the 22" size. The spectrum of the CoraLife ColorMax is similar to the supposed output of the Fiji Purple and for a total of $14, is likely an appropriate temporary replacement. The 14w Normal Output ColorMax was the only one available. It can be overdriven to the 24w High Output, it will just degrade more quickly (the pr0fesseur agrees). This bulb will be used until something can be worked out with ReefGeek.
I'll toss up a pic once the bulb is installed at lights on.
cannabineer
Ursus marijanus
oTm,
I am worried about the severity of the leaf burn you are experiencing. I am also impressed that you got such good results for so long with such bad water. What do you think of the idea of doing a flush with low-ppm water, then simply watering (no nutrients) for a few days? Imo it could provide a "stress break" for the plants that'll restore enough vigor to finish flower in better (pronounced: lots more bud) shape.
Is the leaf burn progressing, has it stopped or is it in actual regression? cn
I am worried about the severity of the leaf burn you are experiencing. I am also impressed that you got such good results for so long with such bad water. What do you think of the idea of doing a flush with low-ppm water, then simply watering (no nutrients) for a few days? Imo it could provide a "stress break" for the plants that'll restore enough vigor to finish flower in better (pronounced: lots more bud) shape.
Is the leaf burn progressing, has it stopped or is it in actual regression? cn
overTHEman
Active Member
cannabineer,
Thank you for stopping in and welcome back.
The burn developed after four heavy feedings and a topdressing of Jamaican Bat Guano. There are likely a number of factors involved.
As I understand necrosis, the plant will allow the affected leaves to continue to until they have died and fallen off completely. It will not try to repair them but focus on new growth instead. Resolution of the problem should be exampled by the health of new growth. Is this correct?
In regards to the water; yes, 500ppm is pretty hard. It comes to the tap directly from a deep natural well and is not filtered before use.
I flipped open Teaming With Microbes to review the role of phosphorus in microbial activity. Lowenfels notes that the immobility of phosphorus often confines it to the top 2" of the soil and if the microbiology is widespread and diverse, it will be available through the soil food web and "far reaching" fungal hyphae. He emphasizes topdressing with fungally dominant compost and mulching to increase the accessibility of nutrients and moisture content of the top layer of soil.
Think of this like a clogged sink overflowing onto the floor; without fungal activity at the surface of the soil, the phosphorus build up eventually creates an imbalance in the soil food web and problems begin. This issue was likely compounded by my plan to "fix" the fungus gnats as top dressing with perlite speeds the drying of the top 2-4" and thus decreasing microbial activity. As my dad would say; "Either unclog it or start bailing."
This seems to be the dilemma; 1. the slow process of reestablishing microbiology, or 2. the application of a new source of water.
...
Although the water is hard, it's also nutritious for both plants and microbes and we have much success with it in our vegetable and flower garden. It is my belief that the non-nutritional application of EWC/molasses tea will reestablish microbiology and eventually resolve the phosphorus build up. Also, now that the fungus gnats have died and the composter no longer houses them, perlite at the soil surface may be removed.
The plant is budding well, trichome development is widespread, and the newest growth is thus far unaffected. Reestablishing the soil food web may delay harvest but this is Lowenfels' and others' recommendation for organic gardening.
All of this being said; if there is no improvement by the end of week 6, the two gallons of distilled water that were purchased yesterday will be applied immediately.
Edit; the majority of the perlite has been removed from the top of the soil. A very thin layer of EWC was added in its place.
Thank you for stopping in and welcome back.
The burn developed after four heavy feedings and a topdressing of Jamaican Bat Guano. There are likely a number of factors involved.
As I understand necrosis, the plant will allow the affected leaves to continue to until they have died and fallen off completely. It will not try to repair them but focus on new growth instead. Resolution of the problem should be exampled by the health of new growth. Is this correct?
In regards to the water; yes, 500ppm is pretty hard. It comes to the tap directly from a deep natural well and is not filtered before use.
I flipped open Teaming With Microbes to review the role of phosphorus in microbial activity. Lowenfels notes that the immobility of phosphorus often confines it to the top 2" of the soil and if the microbiology is widespread and diverse, it will be available through the soil food web and "far reaching" fungal hyphae. He emphasizes topdressing with fungally dominant compost and mulching to increase the accessibility of nutrients and moisture content of the top layer of soil.
Think of this like a clogged sink overflowing onto the floor; without fungal activity at the surface of the soil, the phosphorus build up eventually creates an imbalance in the soil food web and problems begin. This issue was likely compounded by my plan to "fix" the fungus gnats as top dressing with perlite speeds the drying of the top 2-4" and thus decreasing microbial activity. As my dad would say; "Either unclog it or start bailing."
This seems to be the dilemma; 1. the slow process of reestablishing microbiology, or 2. the application of a new source of water.
...
Although the water is hard, it's also nutritious for both plants and microbes and we have much success with it in our vegetable and flower garden. It is my belief that the non-nutritional application of EWC/molasses tea will reestablish microbiology and eventually resolve the phosphorus build up. Also, now that the fungus gnats have died and the composter no longer houses them, perlite at the soil surface may be removed.
The plant is budding well, trichome development is widespread, and the newest growth is thus far unaffected. Reestablishing the soil food web may delay harvest but this is Lowenfels' and others' recommendation for organic gardening.
All of this being said; if there is no improvement by the end of week 6, the two gallons of distilled water that were purchased yesterday will be applied immediately.
Edit; the majority of the perlite has been removed from the top of the soil. A very thin layer of EWC was added in its place.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Other than the nute burn. it looks great. good work. tea is awesome. thats all i feed mine.Pics in "natural" light & measurements
These pictures were taken under 1x23w 3,000k and 1x23w 6,500k CFLs.
As far as measurements; the plant is housed by an 8" rootpot (expanded to 9"). The highest bud is 9" from the top of the pot. There is 6" of clearance between that bud and the lights. After rigging and fixture depth, there are 3-4 inches of usable space to raise the light.
Ms. Headband needed water tonight. Rather than risking more nutrient burn, I opted for plain H2O. The next watering will be a light EWC/molasses tea.
Long day, time for a little mutombo.
Happy growing.
overTHEman
Active Member
PAR T5ers,
The 14w CoraLife ColorMax bulb has been running at 24w in the high output fixture for about four hours with no issue.
By its advertised SPD, the ColorMax appears to be a possible alternative to the Fiji Purple:
Unable to purchase the T5 HO bulb, the 14w bulb has this SPD chart on the box:
The second is likely an average of the +600nm wavelengths as an advertisement for their bulb and its red content. After purchasing and installing the bulb, I'll say that this is most likely the case as the amount of green that is visible on the plants resembles the first chart more so than the second.
Bulbs from top to bottom, where 'X' is empty. ColorMax, X, X, Fiji.
Naturally, the output of the ColorMax is less than that of the Fiji but the amount of green came as a surprise.
To the eye, the bulbs appear almost the same;
Due to the wasted energy in the green spectrum, the ColorMax is to be replaced ASAP. If ReefGeek does not reply by Monday, ordering bulbs through the pet store will be the likely option.
Anyway, it's good to have a more PAR appropriate bulb in place of the dead Fiji Purple. The daylight bulb was producing a substantial amount of green light. For example; 6,500k
Plant.
The 14w CoraLife ColorMax bulb has been running at 24w in the high output fixture for about four hours with no issue.
By its advertised SPD, the ColorMax appears to be a possible alternative to the Fiji Purple:
Unable to purchase the T5 HO bulb, the 14w bulb has this SPD chart on the box:
The second is likely an average of the +600nm wavelengths as an advertisement for their bulb and its red content. After purchasing and installing the bulb, I'll say that this is most likely the case as the amount of green that is visible on the plants resembles the first chart more so than the second.
Bulbs from top to bottom, where 'X' is empty. ColorMax, X, X, Fiji.
Naturally, the output of the ColorMax is less than that of the Fiji but the amount of green came as a surprise.
To the eye, the bulbs appear almost the same;
Due to the wasted energy in the green spectrum, the ColorMax is to be replaced ASAP. If ReefGeek does not reply by Monday, ordering bulbs through the pet store will be the likely option.
Anyway, it's good to have a more PAR appropriate bulb in place of the dead Fiji Purple. The daylight bulb was producing a substantial amount of green light. For example; 6,500k
Plant.overTHEman
Active Member
hyroot,
Thank you for stopping in and the kind words.
Yes, AACT is god's gift to organic growers.
Also, you've done a great job in pr0fesseur's thread - even through all of the mis-information that some keep pushing. Do you have a thread either here or on another site that I can follow? (I apologize if it's obviously posted somewhere - this geezer is still getting the hang of these forums.)
Thank you for stopping in and the kind words.
The burn irks me, pretty much all the time.
Yes, AACT is god's gift to organic growers.
Also, you've done a great job in pr0fesseur's thread - even through all of the mis-information that some keep pushing. Do you have a thread either here or on another site that I can follow? (I apologize if it's obviously posted somewhere - this geezer is still getting the hang of these forums.)
pr0fesseur
Well-Known Member
Great to see such a good thread it hard to keep people on "task" so to speak once theres over 150 pages.. theres always going to be those trying to push an agenda rather than use facts to prove points..
overTHEman
Active Member
Pr0fesseur,
Wow, thank you for stopping in and posting - it is an honor.
I joined RIU to participate in such a discussion. Since then, I have become a little disheartened by the attitudes and misinformation of some of the participants. A small community such as ours would really benefit from sticking together and standing by the intended nature of the thread. I hope you do not feel as if your work is being used improperly.
With an open mind and a grateful heart, thank you pr0fesseur. You are welcome here.
Wow, thank you for stopping in and posting - it is an honor.
From the first post, the experimental and scientific nature of your thread was very unique. It was an idea that gave a big "DUH" and asked "why are you using the wrong colored light?" It's simple and exciting; obvious and fundamental - Don't they call this a paradigm shift?
I joined RIU to participate in such a discussion. Since then, I have become a little disheartened by the attitudes and misinformation of some of the participants. A small community such as ours would really benefit from sticking together and standing by the intended nature of the thread. I hope you do not feel as if your work is being used improperly.
With an open mind and a grateful heart, thank you pr0fesseur. You are welcome here.
overTHEman
Active Member
We're starting 2012 with a brisket sandwich.
Satisfying a serious case of the munchies, often when my best thinking is done, and the need for a small seedling box hit me faster than the third helping of cheesy hash browns. Eventually, I made it downstairs to look for a box to use. A black plastic tub measuring 15"x12"x12" (LxWxH) was not in use! This would be a great seedling/microveg box.
The plan so far:
2 - 3"x8" rectangular holes in the bottom of the box covered by HVAC white foam filter.
1 - False bottom 2"-3" from the bottom of the container (either table or shelf style)
4 - 23w CFLs
2 - 80mm or 120mm case fans
Except the space between the false bottom and ventilation holes, the inside will be painted flat white. The false bottom will remain black an function as a light trap as such.
This is definitely possible.
However, I have a few questions for anyone reading;
As I am not an experienced electrician, concern has arisen over mounting the lights. The available 23w CFLs measure 5"x2"x2". Ideally, having the CFLs parallel and ATTACHED to the lid would save the most space. They could be mounted to the walls but due to the shape of the container, would take up 4-5" of vertical space, rather than 2". Does anyone have a good idea or link for this? How can a fixture be mounted to the lid while maintaining a horizontal profile for the bulb?
The next question is about the false bottom; table or shelf? Table = legs, shelf = mounting. Depending on design, either the length or the width will be just a little shorter than the walls - to allow ventilation. My first reaction was the table-style but after some thought, a shelf seemed easiest and most likely to be level... either way, it needs to be removable. What would you suggest for this?
Satisfying a serious case of the munchies, often when my best thinking is done, and the need for a small seedling box hit me faster than the third helping of cheesy hash browns. Eventually, I made it downstairs to look for a box to use. A black plastic tub measuring 15"x12"x12" (LxWxH) was not in use! This would be a great seedling/microveg box.
The plan so far:
2 - 3"x8" rectangular holes in the bottom of the box covered by HVAC white foam filter.
1 - False bottom 2"-3" from the bottom of the container (either table or shelf style)
4 - 23w CFLs
2 - 80mm or 120mm case fans
Except the space between the false bottom and ventilation holes, the inside will be painted flat white. The false bottom will remain black an function as a light trap as such.
This is definitely possible.
However, I have a few questions for anyone reading;
As I am not an experienced electrician, concern has arisen over mounting the lights. The available 23w CFLs measure 5"x2"x2". Ideally, having the CFLs parallel and ATTACHED to the lid would save the most space. They could be mounted to the walls but due to the shape of the container, would take up 4-5" of vertical space, rather than 2". Does anyone have a good idea or link for this? How can a fixture be mounted to the lid while maintaining a horizontal profile for the bulb?
The next question is about the false bottom; table or shelf? Table = legs, shelf = mounting. Depending on design, either the length or the width will be just a little shorter than the walls - to allow ventilation. My first reaction was the table-style but after some thought, a shelf seemed easiest and most likely to be level... either way, it needs to be removable. What would you suggest for this?
RRain
Active Member
I've seen quite a few people on the internet with a similar idea for the box, in most of these set ups the lights are screwed into cable fixtures which are led in from holes in the top of the box. Now I may have miss understood you but perhaps something like this plugged into a multiplug on the ceiling of the box? http://www.sourcingmap.com/plug-e27-light-lamp-bulb-socket-adapter-convertor-250v-p-124342.html?currency=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=froogle&utm_campaign=ukfroogle Obviously you might want a different kind for your region/bulb.
overTHEman
Active Member
RRain,
That looks like a very effective way to achieve the goal, thank you.
In the US, the most socket adapters are not at right angles but I'm sure something along those lines is available. I'll look into it!
That looks like a very effective way to achieve the goal, thank you.
In the US, the most socket adapters are not at right angles but I'm sure something along those lines is available. I'll look into it!
RRain
Active Member
This is the only converter I could find for the UK, so I had to make a compromise. Is there any specific reason you want its profile to be horizontal rather than vertical? Because I am making a compromise using that adapter they will be hanging vertical, but if I had the multiplug on the ceiling they could be horizontal, would that be more beneficial in any way? Cheers
overTHEman
Active Member
RRain, thank you for coming back and following up.
The idea here is to get an early start on the next flowering and have a place to put clones. If the bulbs were placed horizontally, this would allow ~6" of vertical growth space - plenty for these purposes.
Everything around here is closed today so I'm waiting until tomorrow/Tuesday to get materials - any further suggestions you or others may have would be greatly appreciated!
The reason for the horizontal profile is merely to conserve space. The total depth of the box is only 12"; ~9" after false bottom. Since the 23w CFLs measure 5"x2"x2", horizontal placement would only lose 2 more inches - rather than 5". Although the vertical placement is quick and relatively easy, after socket/fixture the bulbs would consume 6-7" of height. This would only leave 2-3" of space for plant growth and would be nearly useless for any purpose other than germination.
The idea here is to get an early start on the next flowering and have a place to put clones. If the bulbs were placed horizontally, this would allow ~6" of vertical growth space - plenty for these purposes.
Everything around here is closed today so I'm waiting until tomorrow/Tuesday to get materials - any further suggestions you or others may have would be greatly appreciated!
RRain
Active Member
Alrite, thanks for replying. I just wanted to know in case I was making a mistake with my future grow but it's fine. I will probably be doing this as well as I would like a continuous flow of grow + clones rather than purchasing seeds again. Good luck on this grow mate, also if you can't find a converter like that I would definately say look on line, I'm getting pretty much everything online as you can see from my thread
overTHEman
Active Member
RRain,
Got a link to your grow?
Got a link to your grow?