Problems with micronutrient def. Cant find Organic Nutrients to help (PICS)

[bigcarty24]

I dont realy foiler feed. Only kelp. Yes u have to ph. I ph my teas to 6.5. If iam using supersoil I still ph my water to 6.5... has never failed me. Plants like it 6.5 range for soil. I dont have any water problems where I am. I know plant micronutrients arnt absorbed properly when water is too hard. RO water is filtered through reverse osmosis.. cleans everything... including calmag. Soft water is Hardwater softend with water softener.. Now I dont know about softwater... if its good or bad. you should check up on it and see.... I would of done all this before I popped seeds... but u got to learn somehow. I dont mean that to sound bad......

Hope everthing works out... any ??? jst ask

 

[tylerdurdenjack]

I'm new to growing, but thanks to my mom's influence I am going all organic and I'm using "The Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening" as a source of a lot of my info and I'd recommend getting it. Here are some sources of trace elements (micronutrients) that it lists:

Boron-granite dust

Calcium-bone meal, calcite, gypsum, limestone

Chlorine-rainwater

Copper-sawdust

Iron-all green plants

Magnesium-dolomite, limestone, talc

Manganese-leaf mold

Molybdenum-phosphate rock

Sulfur-gypsum, manure, plant matter

Zinc-manure

It also says a deficiency of iron or manganese can cause the chlorosis (lack of chlorophyll) of the plants. I hope this helps man.

 

[myscrizzlenizzle]

Okay so first of all i'd like to thank everyone very much for all their help, i couldn't have done it without you guys (and girls). So like i said earlier, i ended up leaching my plants with softwater and camg+ at half concentration. From everything i had been reading, i thought hard water would be much better for plants seeing how they have minerals already in them. Well i eventually found a hardwater map of the usa. Where i live has the highest gpg (grains per gallon) in the country, so much so that i believe (please correct me if i'm wrong) that the extremely high amount of calcium in my hardwater (over 10gpg) was causing a nute lockout of magnesium. I was also having major zinc and iron problems and those seem to look much better also. I had leached out the plants with hard water about a week earlier, only to notice very little improvement. But now my babies are growing at at least an inch a day. I'd just like your guys opinion whether my plants are getting much better, and if not what i can do to excellerate the process. After leaching with softwater and camg+ i fed 1/2 strength Biothrive Grow and CaMG+ by General Organics and 1/2 strength Extreme Serene (kelp) and Ancient amber (humic acid) by Roots Organics. Also i've been foliar feeding with extreme serene about twice a week. A quick question about foliar feeding...On the Roots Organics Feed Schedule, it tells you to alternate between extreme serene and ancient amber as part of your weekly foliar program and to not use them in conjunction with each other. Does this mean they want me to alternate between the two from week to week, or do they mean to foliar feed with both of them once a week just not at the same time. And do i want to do the foliar feedings with regular feedings or in between? Anyway heres a picture of my girls finally coming back to life. Thanks guys
new growth looks very healthy and lush FINALLY

 

[bigcarty24]

Nice man.... looks like u got some new green growth... Ya hard water is no good....

 

[malignant]

where would be a good organic source of sulfur?

 

[shnazul23]

I had the same look to one of my plants it seemed that it was struggling to grow so I transplanted to a bigger pot and started getting better, but when i trans i looked at the roots and it was root bound in a 1gall pot. try compost tea and restore the microbes in the soil

 

[myscrizzlenizzle]

I've been using oregonism XL for mycorrhizae and i can't tell you how much its helped in the past. I didnt think leaching would have much an effect on that as i figured it would bind to the root system and substrate after being in there for about 2 weeks. Man that shit is expensive though, you have to use 30ml/L for every gallon you have. Anyone have luck just sprinkling it in the soil instead. It seems to use much less that way, but i'm wondering if its as effective since the whole roots system doesnt get essentially drenched in endo/ecto bacteria cultures.

 

[myscrizzlenizzle]

where would be a good organic source of sulfur?

You know i've been wondering that myself. I use Biothrive Grow and it lists all the micronutrients and their respective concentrations on the bottle and what is weird is that i don't see sulfur. What is even weirder is that almost all the nutrients in it are derived from sulfates. (copper sulfate, ferric sulfate, potassium sulfate) I'm not an expert in chemistry, but i'm pretty sure thats where the sulfur comes from. I notice that most nutrient bottles don't say how much sodium they have in them yet most do have trace amounts.

 

[Wetdog]

where would be a good organic source of sulfur?

Gypsum is what I use. Provides Ca also and doesn't screw with the soil pH like Garden Sulfur.

I've been using oregonism XL for mycorrhizae and i can't tell you how much its helped in the past. I didnt think leaching would have much an effect on that as i figured it would bind to the root system and substrate after being in there for about 2 weeks. Man that shit is expensive though, you have to use 30ml/L for every gallon you have. Anyone have luck just sprinkling it in the soil instead. It seems to use much less that way, but i'm wondering if its as effective since the whole roots system doesnt get essentially drenched in endo/ecto bacteria cultures.

Check out MycoGrow Soluble from www.fungi.com

~$8 to make 12 gallons worth. Only ONE application is needed.

Or, www.bioag.com Thier VAM product is excellent if you want to sprinkle on the soil. Again, only one application needed.

Wet

 

[myscrizzlenizzle]

ill make to check out mycogrow, i've heard good things about it before. Anyway last question for you guys. What are your techniques for transitioning into flowering. I've been reading a lot of articles about a 24 hour dark peroid fed with bloom nutrients will start the process much faster. They are on a light cycle of 24/0 and i just want to know if i should start going to 18/6 before i make the big switch or if it really doesn't make a difference. Thanks again guys