Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
No. Get your main colas going and then upcan burying the trunk as you see fit.
No tricks, just botany.
UB
Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
No tricks, just botany.
UB
keifcake
Well-Known Member
Ok, I see what your saying now. Thanks!
I wish i would have know this a week ago, as well as the whole bleaching part which i found out on my own, and then read about in this thread. To bad i didnt see it sooner.
Awesome thread though, both this and the topping technique which ill be using now as well.
I wish i would have know this a week ago, as well as the whole bleaching part which i found out on my own, and then read about in this thread. To bad i didnt see it sooner.
Awesome thread though, both this and the topping technique which ill be using now as well.
kilo810
Active Member
Okay so I have one issue with this info. And this comes from my own experience and readings. I developed my Grow rooms around Ed Rosenthals reccommendations in a book he has recently written. Basically I veg undder t5's, then for the 1st 4 weeks of flower I move my plants under a 600w hps. then for the last 4 weeks I move them again under a 1000w hps. I have had great success with this technique. I understand the nature concept of less light but in order to help the plant gain enough energy to produce decent sized buds you need to bump up the light it seems due to the lack of hours that the plant is actually getting. Just my own observation and I would love to get some thoughts on this. I am always open to new ideas and interpetations.
Just read this whole thread lots of good info and will be taking some little things with me for my next grows.
Currently have 11 girls in a 4x8 and they are 13 days into flower and just curious when should i trim the bottom stuff off and how much I can add a pic in a hour or so when the lights come on.
Currently have 11 girls in a 4x8 and they are 13 days into flower and just curious when should i trim the bottom stuff off and how much I can add a pic in a hour or so when the lights come on.
I too believe in the increase of light to finish while keeping temps down. Some even intensify wattage and cut back hours to say 10 instead of 12 and say that produces big hard quality bud, cause lets face it thats what were all after, who cares how it looks! Meaning just because its big doesnt mean its good. My medicinal patients want to be able to eat the smoke, not something they pull on and it burns their mouth, lol. Back to mother nature, she has all the tools nesassary to provide us with decent bud but can also be clumsy at times. In saying that, there is always room for improvement!
BenRound
Member
Uncle Ben, I am a licensed MI Med patient, with a wife applying to be a caregiver. I'm currently in my 2nd grow, my 1st being back in '86. In other words, a newb. I think I have done well, overall, in separating the wheat from the chaff on info-- by mostly listening to the experienced growers. However, I believe after reading this thread I have made a mistake. I have 4 plants about 3 feet tall, with nice dense nugs and twin colas. Today is 6 weeks of 12/12. The buds look good and frosty. Im happy with it so far. My mistake it appears, is that I listened to the advise I had read so often about stopping feeding N at the start of flowering. Worse yet, I fed a 12-55-6 food to my plants. You say this will make my buds "fucked up". I fed them a weak mixture about 12 days ago the first time and the same 2 days ago. I fed the "indoor plant" (weaker) directions both times and at that, only 1gal split between the 4 plants that are in 3 gal containers of soil. Still, I worry. My question is: what should I now do? After reading this thread, I "flushed" the containers last night. I plan to go back to the regular plant food of higher N plant food in a couple of days. Is this best do you think? I estimate that one plant has 2 weeks to go (showed sex within 2 days and now about 20% amber pistols) I think the rest of the plants might need 4 weeks or more. Have I "fucked them up"? What do you think is my best move from here? The more mature plant is in less quality soil, and indeed as you say, the lower leaves died off and according to the "forum paradigm", I was thinking this was "normal". (ooops!) Thanks in advance for any advise.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
It's not about Ed, about watts, about different kind of lamps, about stages...it's all about finding out the plant's light saturation point and staying below it so you don't bleach out the chlorophyll.
In my sig link I wrote....
3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Sheesh, ah feel dizzy! Yes, you screwed up by listening to forum advice versus understanding what makes a plant tick but don't worry about it, most do. They think "popular" is right. Leaves drive production and if you used a high P food exclusively, ya done induced leaf chlorosis (micro deficiencies) and premature leaf drop. I have a thread on the abuse of bloom foods.
Give them a more balanced food like a 20-20-20. I use a 12 month, high N, 18-5-8 with micros from start to finish outdoors with excellent results. It's not about bud production, it's about root and leaf production and health. Think outside of the box....
KUShSOurSMOKEr
Well-Known Member
nice uncle ben ur post and awesome!! thanks for all ur help i want to use the products u r using..the 20 20 20 ur using is jacks classic right ?
also whats the 18 5 8 u use product called ?
also uncle ben what micros do u use ..will use next run n keep my green super nice n darkish green
also whats the 18 5 8 u use product called ?
also uncle ben what micros do u use ..will use next run n keep my green super nice n darkish green
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Jack's is fine. Try Osmocote for a slow release food.nice uncle ben ur post and awesome!! thanks for all ur help i want to use the products u r using..the 20 20 20 ur using is jacks classic right ?
also whats the 18 5 8 u use product called ?
also uncle ben what micros do u use ..will use next run n keep my green super nice n darkish green
Micros are wrapped into the fertilizer blend.
KUShSOurSMOKEr
Well-Known Member
Nice thanks uncle ben I will try this with jacks and the osmocote and a good organic soil blend..Along with burying the trunk hope for a huge great n healthy plant!!!!!Thanks again uncle ben ..U should post another thread with a few more pointers tips 
all ur tips are super working for mee
all ur tips are super working for mee
BenRound
Member
UB,
You posting this thread saved my crop. I was in the process of killing leaves and stunting buds. Using your advise on ferts turned it around. The leaves that werent already dead started coming back and the buds began to explode with new growth. My mistake cost me about a week of growth, but if you hadnt posted this thread for me to find, the damage and lower yield would have been far worse.
Wish I could cure some of these super frosty (and now nitrogen rich) buds and smoke one with ya.
Cheers!
You posting this thread saved my crop. I was in the process of killing leaves and stunting buds. Using your advise on ferts turned it around. The leaves that werent already dead started coming back and the buds began to explode with new growth. My mistake cost me about a week of growth, but if you hadnt posted this thread for me to find, the damage and lower yield would have been far worse.
Wish I could cure some of these super frosty (and now nitrogen rich) buds and smoke one with ya.
Cheers!
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the kind words. Glad the "old school" aka voice of reason worked out for you!
KUShSOurSMOKEr
Well-Known Member
Uncle ben where cud I buy the stuff for rootball?
boneheadbob
Well-Known Member
I get my one year chip on feb first. I have grown mostly organic and thinking about making it a lot easier and less expensive by once again taking advantage of your free advice. I am about to switch to Jacks Classic
As long as I dont overload (less is more) then my friends and I will not be able to tell the difference by smoking or smelling
I am working on keeping things green untill I harvest and I noticed that the leaves in the back where it is shady are still green. There were not too close to the light because it seemed they did not like it much (KO Kush) so I had them in the back already.
I wonder how much light has to do in leaves turning yellow versus them not having enough nutes to last. Probaly a little of both, mostly the nutes?
As long as I dont overload (less is more) then my friends and I will not be able to tell the difference by smoking or smelling
I am working on keeping things green untill I harvest and I noticed that the leaves in the back where it is shady are still green. There were not too close to the light because it seemed they did not like it much (KO Kush) so I had them in the back already.
I wonder how much light has to do in leaves turning yellow versus them not having enough nutes to last. Probaly a little of both, mostly the nutes?
ismokebomb
Active Member
uncle ben, i am going to use spinout treated pots once i upcan. i was going to treat my starting pots(cups) as well, but i recall you mentioning that roots have trouble occupying the new medium if the original, or starting pot was treated, due to lingering copper. i was wondering then, should i allow root spinout, then score, before transplanting to spinout treated pots? or should i try to avoid root spinout before transplanting to spinout treated pots?(IOW, earlier) By the way, im in 20 oz cups using your topping technique.
thank you uncle ben for everything. you provide the truth
thank you uncle ben for everything. you provide the truth
KUShSOurSMOKEr
Well-Known Member
ya uncle ben i love all ur threads and posts they help me alot!!!
I would love for u to make another tweaks and pointers thread with more old school tricks!!
thanks as always ub
Uncle Ben
Well-Known Member
I'd go from the cups to a large treated pot to finish them out. Score the rootball to break it up before upcanning.uncle ben, i am going to use spinout treated pots once i upcan. i was going to treat my starting pots(cups) as well, but i recall you mentioning that roots have trouble occupying the new medium if the original, or starting pot was treated, due to lingering copper. i was wondering then, should i allow root spinout, then score, before transplanting to spinout treated pots? or should i try to avoid root spinout before transplanting to spinout treated pots?(IOW, earlier) By the way, im in 20 oz cups using your topping technique.
thank you uncle ben for everything. you provide the truth
I now make the practice of hosing off the outside of the rootball to get rid of the soil that might still contain Cu ions before upcanning. Seems to work but keep in mind, that paint was designed for use on perennials.
KUShSOurSMOKEr
Well-Known Member
uncle ben when u feed u plants do u feed/water/feed/water or how does ur schedule go i would love huge colas like urs! i think i will this next grow
stonestare
Active Member
UB
I have read this and a few of your other posts and would like to say thank you very much. I am not growing yet but looking for as much info as I can get and your posts have made the most sense to me. I got lost when trying to figure out what to use to feed plants and what I found has went against everything that I know about gardening in general. I use Ironite around my house for everything it is a mineral product and was curious if I used it in my mix if it would help bring in essential minerals to my mix for soil using your recipe. Here is the msds on it
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS 6-2-1:
Total Nitrogen (N) 6%
1.0% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
1.0% Nitrate Nitrogen
4.0% Urea Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 2%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 1%
Sulfur (S) 1.0%
1.0% Combined Sulfur (S)
Cobalt (Co) 0.005%
Iron (Fe) 1.0%
1.0% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) 0.20%
0.20% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
Zinc (Zn) 0.05%
0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn)
You can find it at lowes or home depo for $17 a 50 pound bag. Thanks for all of your info and looking towards reading more of your posts
I have read this and a few of your other posts and would like to say thank you very much. I am not growing yet but looking for as much info as I can get and your posts have made the most sense to me. I got lost when trying to figure out what to use to feed plants and what I found has went against everything that I know about gardening in general. I use Ironite around my house for everything it is a mineral product and was curious if I used it in my mix if it would help bring in essential minerals to my mix for soil using your recipe. Here is the msds on it
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS 6-2-1:
Total Nitrogen (N) 6%
1.0% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
1.0% Nitrate Nitrogen
4.0% Urea Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 2%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 1%
Sulfur (S) 1.0%
1.0% Combined Sulfur (S)
Cobalt (Co) 0.005%
Iron (Fe) 1.0%
1.0% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) 0.20%
0.20% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
Zinc (Zn) 0.05%
0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn)
You can find it at lowes or home depo for $17 a 50 pound bag. Thanks for all of your info and looking towards reading more of your posts