The evidence are a few gnats buzzing about, but population mabe increasing. Indoor 1k hps, 5ga pots. I do have half of them in FFOF and I live in MI so possibly this is anecdotal evidence related those accusations. Hope We can move through harvest without any drastic measures. Any experiebces you can share would be appreciated. Thanks.
Believe I have Gnats 2 wks into flower 2 DJ BB, 8 Alaskan Haze. Any Thoughts?
- Thread starter parden60
- Start date
Bargar
Well-Known Member
Sand will help your situation for sure, but it will not eliminate the fungus gnats. I would suggest using diatomecious earth on the top layer of soil (after a watering) as well as buying some "Mosquito dunks" (These are just a form of bacteria that eat the larval form of fungus gnats) and crumbling them up on the top layer of soil, as well as crumbling some up in the disc trays under your plant.
If you use all three of these your fungus gnat problem will disappear after a week or so. IMO the mosquito dunks with the DE work best, but that is just from my experience.
If you use all three of these your fungus gnat problem will disappear after a week or so. IMO the mosquito dunks with the DE work best, but that is just from my experience.
Sounds easy enough. I don't see any problems yet. Have lush, green plants. 1st full organic and 1st reasonably successful grow. Thanks for the tip, roofwayne
OK, Thanks, Bargar. Sand sounds easy. Am concerned about anything below the soil eating those lucious roots. I've had grubs in my lawn and know what happens. Heading to store right now so DE and dunks are on the list.
Really appreciate the prompt and helpful tips. My 3rd grow and it's because of the experienced members here that have shared their wisdom that I have hopes of becomming an excellant organic grower of good meds.
I amend soil with neem seed meal, and foliar weekly/biweekly with neem oil in veg and week 1 of flower. I "live" with fungus gnats, once i started buying this organic mix from the nursery they were introduced (in an organic system they will show up inevitably at some point) it's been a good 6 months since they started showing up and i never see more than a few flying around and i keep yellow sticky traps to monitor as well, and the bitches are happy 'n healthy 
It's a good overall preventative treatment and keeps the ladies lookin' vibrant lush and green and get shiny over time that seems to prohibit predatory bugs 'n mites from even thinking about takin' a bight....
Never liked the idea of a layer of sand, seems like it would allow less oxygen into the soil and lead to compaction, probably not a major issue but thats just me
mosquito dunks didn't work for me years and years ago when i had gnats up the wazoo, seems it works for some not for others, maybe some have super gnats lol
It's a good overall preventative treatment and keeps the ladies lookin' vibrant lush and green and get shiny over time that seems to prohibit predatory bugs 'n mites from even thinking about takin' a bight....Never liked the idea of a layer of sand, seems like it would allow less oxygen into the soil and lead to compaction, probably not a major issue but thats just me
mosquito dunks didn't work for me years and years ago when i had gnats up the wazoo, seems it works for some not for others, maybe some have super gnats lol
blueJ, thanks. I am mixing my own soil 'recipe' based upon ffof mushroom compost, Worm casts, Espoma Organics and Biotone, Guanos, lime, HF Tomato and Veg. Teas with the above and molasses and Ancient Forest. Definately still working on it. Will include neem in the future.I amend soil with neem seed meal, and foliar weekly/biweekly with neem oil in veg and week 1 of flower. I "live" with fungus gnats, once i started buying this organic mix from the nursery they were introduced (in an organic system they will show up inevitably at some point) it's been a good 6 months since they started showing up and i never see more than a few flying around and i keep yellow sticky traps to monitor as well, and the bitches are happy 'n healthy
Never liked the idea of a layer of sand, seems like it would allow less oxygen into the soil and lead to compaction, probably not a major issue but thats just me
mosquito dunks didn't work for me years and years ago when i had gnats up the wazoo, seems it works for some not for others, maybe some have super gnats lol
Felt they were intro'd from ocean forest based upon other posts. No idea tho. Just itty bitty little fly's. May get some yellow traps also, tho it is apparent I have em as they are buzzin' about, just hope its not an infestation or especially not a million worms having brunch on those beautiful roots. As i say, growth is lush and green and buds seem to be forming nicely. I am quite inexperienced, though.
I highly recommend getting yellow sticky traps, hang a couple so they swing below the lights, and lay 'em flat on the soil, i catch a bunch of springtails too on 'em, you'll be able to monitor all the types of bugs as most flying insects are attracted to the yellow, you'll catch early white fly infestations too.... mix looks good! don't hesitate to add kelp meal and alfalfa meal if you can get it, great stuff!
HaHa, will do. Saw a bale of alfalfa yesterday for about 15 bucks, absolutely adding it to my regimen. Going to SGS right now for DE and kelp and poss fish ferts. I think I'll be good thru harvest but not sure. Will continue to do what I'm doing and kep things moving along. Believe need to cut back on N in teas now, looking for nutes for mid and late flower.
1337hacker
Active Member
The active bacteria in mosquito dunks Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) is the most sure fire way to end the reproduction and life cycle of the gnats. Combine that with sticky traps, sand or DE to kill the adults and it's over for those little critters. Don't freak out about them too much, I have had gnats quite a few times with little ill effect... it comes with buying FFoF and mixes from these grow shops.
I would recommend Gnatrol (the powdered Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or Bti) at a dilution rate of 1-2 tsp per gallon of drench. They recommend more on the package, but it works with much less as tested by myself and the biggest grow shop in the area. If you find the problem persists bump up the dosage.
I would also recommend changing the top inch or two of soil out.
I would recommend Gnatrol (the powdered Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis or Bti) at a dilution rate of 1-2 tsp per gallon of drench. They recommend more on the package, but it works with much less as tested by myself and the biggest grow shop in the area. If you find the problem persists bump up the dosage.
I would also recommend changing the top inch or two of soil out.
Thanks to all. Just applied DE and looking for some yellow traps. Will monitor closely. Believe this will be an ongoing battle due to organics and also use of molasses.
I wonder to what extent the damage potential is. Clearly, spider mites do great damage to crop and hurt yields and quality.
In reviewing fungus gnats, they are diligent pests yet do not see many stories of crop damage. No matter, I want them gone, but maybe the short growth period precludes substantial damage.
I wonder to what extent the damage potential is. Clearly, spider mites do great damage to crop and hurt yields and quality.
In reviewing fungus gnats, they are diligent pests yet do not see many stories of crop damage. No matter, I want them gone, but maybe the short growth period precludes substantial damage.
1337hacker, thanks. Just saw your post. SGS had no mosquito dunks but expect more soon. Thanks for the info on them. At least they are cheap so going to add them to the arsenal. I appreciate your experience with them. I like Ocean Forest as I like soil and I am amending it with Espoma and the add's. I wonder if it too risky to continue with it and if Happy Frog poses the same threat or may be a good alternative.
Thanks again. It's been great to have so much input and help to my question.
I'll put a few pics up too get some opinions. Be cool,
Rising Moon
Well-Known Member
One thing I might add to this conversation is that, I have found, that if I water less frequently, and let the soil dry out a bit between waterings, the little buggers have allot more trouble getting established, and you also learn to read your plants really well with this method, by stretching out the distance between waterings as long as you can, than water them the perfect amount the soil can take in, no overflow= no waste, no bugs, strong plants.
Girls woke this am looking great. De spread all about the soil and activity seems to be lessened, yet I am sure it is too soon for the DE to have ana effect.
I have been letting the soil dry out prior to watering, yet may go another day to ensure environment is as hostile as possible. When I water, tho, I surely get quite a bit of run off and that holds in the basin the plants are in. Probably another problem point in combatting the gnats.
Here's a few pics from a week or so ago. Flowering continues to progress as buds seem to be forming nicely. Thanks for any thoughts and all the helpful posts. Be cool.
I have been letting the soil dry out prior to watering, yet may go another day to ensure environment is as hostile as possible. When I water, tho, I surely get quite a bit of run off and that holds in the basin the plants are in. Probably another problem point in combatting the gnats.
Here's a few pics from a week or so ago. Flowering continues to progress as buds seem to be forming nicely. Thanks for any thoughts and all the helpful posts. Be cool.
Attachments
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
Gnatrol is better than dunks.
Check out MicrobeLift. It has a much higher spore count that either. You can buy it at Ace Hardware. Its for controlling larvae in ponds. Cheap too.
I use it at about 10 times the rate they recommend....wont hurt a thing.
I also have a thick layer of DE.
Between those 2 things...I dont get gnats. At all. Ever.
Check out MicrobeLift. It has a much higher spore count that either. You can buy it at Ace Hardware. Its for controlling larvae in ponds. Cheap too.
I use it at about 10 times the rate they recommend....wont hurt a thing.
I also have a thick layer of DE.
Between those 2 things...I dont get gnats. At all. Ever.
woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
AzaMax™
Botanical Insecticide, Miticide, and Nematicide
AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications. AzaMax is made from special Azadirachtin Technical extracted using patented extraction technology from Neem, a tree known for it’s innumerable benefits. AzaMax contains Azadirachtin A&B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids from it’s special technology. The special feature of AzaMax is that it does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients. AzaMax is licensed in all 50 states.
AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. AzaMax effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests. Best of all, AzaMax can be applied up to the time or day of harvest. The product is exempted from residue tolerance, thus there is no harmful residue on veggies, fruits, herbs and flowers etc. Truly, AzaMax is a product of Nature in tune with Technology.
Lable and directions
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=&q=azamax+mixing&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGLL_en-GBCA380CA380&ie=UTF-8&aq=4&oq=Azamax
Botanical Insecticide, Miticide, and Nematicide
AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications. AzaMax is made from special Azadirachtin Technical extracted using patented extraction technology from Neem, a tree known for it’s innumerable benefits. AzaMax contains Azadirachtin A&B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids from it’s special technology. The special feature of AzaMax is that it does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients. AzaMax is licensed in all 50 states.
AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. AzaMax effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests. Best of all, AzaMax can be applied up to the time or day of harvest. The product is exempted from residue tolerance, thus there is no harmful residue on veggies, fruits, herbs and flowers etc. Truly, AzaMax is a product of Nature in tune with Technology.
Lable and directions
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=&q=azamax+mixing&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGLL_en-GBCA380CA380&ie=UTF-8&aq=4&oq=Azamax
Well, the DE has been applied, yellow stickers are in the pots and hanging above. Mosquito dunks are soaking in a gallon of h2o.
thanks again to all for looking and replying. Will let them dry another day and apply mosquito dunk. will monitor and reapply. I am posting some pics of the girls on another thread.
thanks again to all for looking and replying. Will let them dry another day and apply mosquito dunk. will monitor and reapply. I am posting some pics of the girls on another thread.
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
Just in case the dunks are a little weak...check this out.
I gave 29 bucks at Ace Hardware
I gave 29 bucks at Ace Hardware
Buddy Hemphill
Active Member
couldn't edit??
look where is says 2.5 ml per 1000 gallons....
Thats why I say I use 5-10 times what they call for.
A fucking gnat larvae doesn't stand a snowballs chance in hell...lol
look where is says 2.5 ml per 1000 gallons....
Thats why I say I use 5-10 times what they call for.
A fucking gnat larvae doesn't stand a snowballs chance in hell...lol