Need help with my Female in arizona
- Thread starter 99MEAT
- Start date
cannofbliss
Well-Known Member
well... generally breaking the roots is better, it only just slows the growth down for a little while like a week to get back into the swing of things...
if just the root ball in new soil... no biggie... the roots will find their way around just fine...
if you have already soaked it really well after your transplant........ then just let it dry out like normal till you can grab a handful of dirt and it is all dried out on top 5 inches or so, and slightly droopy leaves, then rinse and repeat...
you'll see the difference between "high water density" and "low water density" in the leaves and plant, if the leaves droop down from the stem and the fingers on the leaves are limp then it is dry and thirsty... if the leaves bend over from the middle of the fingers as if the leaves are forming an "arch" or like an umbrella it just means slightly over soaked which is what they look like, and in az it wont take long for it to dry out
it looks like slightly yellowing, but again its always hard to determine anything over just a pic... especially to give any real accurate diagnosis...
once you have soaked it (after the transplant) btw... the roots will and should have plenty of access to the nutes that are already present in the soil, if MG soil then the new soil has fresh nutes in it already and im sure has osmocote (typically little goldish circular pellets) which is a "time release" fert in it, so wait till next week or so to fert it again...
then back to normal cycle of watering till dripping out bottom, then let dry(till looks thirsty enough), then flush w nutes, then water again till dripping out bottom, then let dry, then flush with nutes... when "flushing with nutes make sure there is a good amount of water to coat all of the soil evenly so there are no places where "fertilizer salts" can build up... etc... so make sure when making the mix of fert that there is enough water to go in the bucket say around a gallon of water each time you water the plant... during water or water with fert day...
since you have a "hot" soil with fert in it and "time release" you should try to follow this type of schedule so you dont overcook it with the fert...
roughly a cycle for flowering of wk 1>>> just water when thirsty............ wk 2>>> fert N 5% P 10% K 10 only ONCE 1/4 strength fert(follow ratio on box) if says a tablespoon per gallon use 1/4 etc............ then if thirsty anytime later in the week just water to suppliment its thirst with plain pH'd water at 6.5-7.0 should be fine................ wk 3 water ONLY during this week+ ONLY ONCE during the week with other suppliments like 1 tablespoon of molasses superthrive etc whatever you got 1 teaspoon of Mg (epsom salts) etc... and or other minerals... but no ferts............then if thirsty anytime later in the week just water to suppliment its thirst again with plain pH'd water 6.5-7.0 etc......................... wk 4>>> only ONCE 1/4 strength fert N 5% P 15% K 10%.................... etc.......wk 5>>> water+other suppliments etc............. wk 6 1/2 strength fert N 0% P 20% K 15%................... wk 7 water + other suppliments etc.................... wk 8 full strength fert N 0% P 25% K 15%................ wk 9 flush with water + molasses... then when planning to harvest just flush 3 days before harvest...
during "water and suppliment weeks" add only ONCE during one watering session 1 tablespoon of molasses each week during water weeks...
same goes for "fert weeks" only fertilize ONCE then if thirsty later in the week just plain pH'd water to suppliment its thirst... etc...
IF at anytime it looks to be burning from the tips further than say a half a centimeter or more ( more than the size of the diameter of a dime or penney or so) then back off of the nutes...
if yellowing from bottom and leaves falling off WAY too much then just add ONLY a little of N say 2-5% in the NPK ratio range... to counter and keep it lightly supplimented to carry it throughout the rest of flowering...
these NPK ratios above are just reference points as all plants cannabis or not have different "tastes" or appetites so to speak... and you may not have a bunch of other fertilizers to combine to get too specific....
however... you should go and get a good flowering fert with a good P K ratio say 10% for both with a very low N % and can just adjust accordingly throughout the rest of the grow...
that MG fert you have listed will have too much N later down into flowering and will decrease the quality of your flower production...
anything after the wk 8 is preference depending on whether its thc maturation point has been reached or not......... and then even including the final flush before harvest, but it does make it taste much better when flushed and much cleaner and less harsh and more smooth...
hope this isnt too convoluted... just tired today and giving a general idea of what schedule to follow... the rest the plant should tell you when its hungry or thirsty for somthing then feed it and water it accordingly...
99MEAT
Member
That was very resourceful thanks cannofbliss i will follow that to the T and bring her back "i hope" thanks againwell... generally breaking the roots is better, it only just slows the growth down for a little while like a week to get back into the swing of things...
if just the root ball in new soil... no biggie... the roots will find their way around just fine...
if you have already soaked it really well after your transplant........ then just let it dry out like normal till you can grab a handful of dirt and it is all dried out on top 5 inches or so, and slightly droopy leaves, then rinse and repeat...
you'll see the difference between "high water density" and "low water density" in the leaves and plant, if the leaves droop down from the stem and the fingers on the leaves are limp then it is dry and thirsty... if the leaves bend over from the middle of the fingers as if the leaves are forming an "arch" or like an umbrella it just means slightly over soaked which is what they look like, and in az it wont take long for it to dry out
it looks like slightly yellowing, but again its always hard to determine anything over just a pic... especially to give any real accurate diagnosis...
once you have soaked it (after the transplant) btw... the roots will and should have plenty of access to the nutes that are already present in the soil, if MG soil then the new soil has fresh nutes in it already and im sure has osmocote (typically little goldish circular pellets) which is a "time release" fert in it, so wait till next week or so to fert it again...
then back to normal cycle of watering till dripping out bottom, then let dry(till looks thirsty enough), then flush w nutes, then water again till dripping out bottom, then let dry, then flush with nutes... when "flushing with nutes make sure there is a good amount of water to coat all of the soil evenly so there are no places where "fertilizer salts" can build up... etc... so make sure when making the mix of fert that there is enough water to go in the bucket say around a gallon of water each time you water the plant... during water or water with fert day...
since you have a "hot" soil with fert in it and "time release" you should try to follow this type of schedule so you dont overcook it with the fert...
roughly a cycle for flowering of wk 1>>> just water when thirsty............ wk 2>>> fert N 5% P 10% K 10 only ONCE 1/4 strength fert(follow ratio on box) if says a tablespoon per gallon use 1/4 etc............ then if thirsty anytime later in the week just water to suppliment its thirst with plain pH'd water at 6.5-7.0 should be fine................ wk 3 water ONLY during this week+ ONLY ONCE during the week with other suppliments like 1 tablespoon of molasses superthrive etc whatever you got 1 teaspoon of Mg (epsom salts) etc... and or other minerals... but no ferts............then if thirsty anytime later in the week just water to suppliment its thirst again with plain pH'd water 6.5-7.0 etc......................... wk 4>>> only ONCE 1/4 strength fert N 5% P 15% K 10%.................... etc.......wk 5>>> water+other suppliments etc............. wk 6 1/2 strength fert N 0% P 20% K 15%................... wk 7 water + other suppliments etc.................... wk 8 full strength fert N 0% P 25% K 15%................ wk 9 flush with water + molasses... then when planning to harvest just flush 3 days before harvest...
during "water and suppliment weeks" add only ONCE during one watering session 1 tablespoon of molasses each week during water weeks...
same goes for "fert weeks" only fertilize ONCE then if thirsty later in the week just plain pH'd water to suppliment its thirst... etc...
IF at anytime it looks to be burning from the tips further than say a half a centimeter or more ( more than the size of the diameter of a dime or penney or so) then back off of the nutes...
if yellowing from bottom and leaves falling off WAY too much then just add ONLY a little of N say 2-5% in the NPK ratio range... to counter and keep it lightly supplimented to carry it throughout the rest of flowering...
these NPK ratios above are just reference points as all plants cannabis or not have different "tastes" or appetites so to speak... and you may not have a bunch of other fertilizers to combine to get too specific....
however... you should go and get a good flowering fert with a good P K ratio say 10% for both with a very low N % and can just adjust accordingly throughout the rest of the grow...
that MG fert you have listed will have too much N later down into flowering and will decrease the quality of your flower production...
anything after the wk 8 is preference depending on whether its thc maturation point has been reached or not......... and then even including the final flush before harvest, but it does make it taste much better when flushed and much cleaner and less harsh and more smooth...
hope this isnt too convoluted... just tired today and giving a general idea of what schedule to follow... the rest the plant should tell you when its hungry or thirsty for somthing then feed it and water it accordingly...
cannofbliss
Well-Known Member
no prob... shes not bad at all... btw... so just try to keep her cool as possible... and she'll do you well...