Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

stonestare

stonestare

Active Member
UB
I have read this and a few of your other posts and would like to say thank you very much. I am not growing yet but looking for as much info as I can get and your posts have made the most sense to me. I got lost when trying to figure out what to use to feed plants and what I found has went against everything that I know about gardening in general.All I was seeing to use was an ect and then I ran across your topping post wich blew my mind due to being able to have multipul colas. I use Ironite around my house for everything it is a mineral product and was curious if I used it in my mix if it would help bring in essential minerals to my mix for soil using your recipe. Here is the msds on it

GUARANTEED ANALYSIS 6-2-1:
Total Nitrogen (N) 6%
1.0% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
1.0% Nitrate Nitrogen
4.0% Urea Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 2%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 1%
Sulfur (S) 1.0%
1.0% Combined Sulfur (S)
Cobalt (Co) 0.005%
Iron (Fe) 1.0%
1.0% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) 0.20%
0.20% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
Zinc (Zn) 0.05%
0.05% Chelated Zinc (Zn)

You can find it at lowes or home depo for $17 a 50 pound bag. Thanks for all of your info and looking towards reading more of your posts[/QUOTE]
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I've never used Ironite for indoor growing, only outdoors and that after determining there was a need for those elements.
 
stonestare

stonestare

Active Member
Thanks UB you have compeled me with your vast knowledge that I will be getting with my county extension office and enroll in thier master garndner program. You have opened my eyes enough that I probly have a better understanding of plants than alot of people so thanks for the final push and the understanding its not rocket science and dont fall into the hype of cannibis specific nutes.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
stonestare said:
Thanks UB you have compeled me with your vast knowledge that I will be getting with my county extension office and enroll in thier master garndner program. You have opened my eyes enough that I probly have a better understanding of plants than alot of people so thanks for the final push and the understanding its not rocket science and dont fall into the hype of cannibis specific nutes.
Click to expand...
Give the plant the same treatment as you would a potted tomato plant and you'll do fine remembering that success should be measured by the mass/amount of healthy roots and foliage at harvest. Accordingly, bud production is a given.

UB
 
stonestare

stonestare

Active Member
Yes I was using my tomato knowledge as a guide to grow. I had alot of confusion and just by reading your posts I fell back to my vegie thought process and so many lights flipped on.There are so many people that make this growing alot harder than it needs to be let alone the push of the snake oils. Thanks for grounding me and proving that I do have the knowledge to grow happy, lovely plants.
 
B

beans davis

Well-Known Member
Hey UB I've been reading a lot on another site and have a question.I'm running D.G. in hydro & have to add veg to my blm to keep leaves green.
I'm thinking of running the Foliage Pro all the way and push my ppms up.No blm.
You think this is a good idea?Will my yield be the same or more?
I've seen it done & i'm diggin it.
Thanks man
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
beans davis said:
Hey UB I've been reading a lot on another site and have a question.I'm running D.G. in hydro & have to add veg to my blm to keep leaves green.
I'm thinking of running the Foliage Pro all the way and push my ppms up.No blm.
You think this is a good idea?Will my yield be the same or more?
I've seen it done & i'm diggin it.
Thanks man
Click to expand...
If whatever you use maintains leaves in a healthy green condition upon harvest, then yes, your yields will be more compared to those that use Bloom foods that induce leaf necrosis. There are now instruments that measure chlorophyll content, the more the better. Pointed out by Daniels at the Riddleme site. http://www.pikeagri.com/vmchk/Chlorophyll/AtLeaf-Chlorophyll-Meter/Detailed-product-flyer.html

I now use a slow release 18-4-9 from start to finish on pot and all perennials and annuals I grow commercially.

UB
 
B

beans davis

Well-Known Member
I'm almost ready to harvest and theres not a yellow leaf on any of my plants.
I don't have any necrosis.
I was told that mixing the nutes could cause lockout.
If i had any kind of lockout i could see it.These plants look damn good.

If i can get the same or better results with just the foliage pro i'd go that route & get rid of 1btl & save $$$.
I was told to shoot for this 6-1-4.Purdy damn close to what you got.

I know leaves make buds i was just wondering if a little more P in blm still keeping the leaves green would help bud production.
Like i'm doing now....mixing my nutes.... my leaves can't get any greener.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
The issue is how much of a certain macro is enough to support good flower/fruit production? The general thinking of the gardening industry as reflected in nutrient guides and piggy backed on by the plant food industry is a certain premise - "P is needed for a plant to flower and fruit well". So the gardener sits there pondering the choices on the shelf and thinks, "well, if P is so good, I'll just hit 'em hard with LOTS of P" and shells out money for some wacked out blossom booster with a 10-50-10 ratio.

What most don't understand is the concept of nutrient antagonism. They learn the hard way that too much P causes a "lockout" of micros, N and Ca too, if memory serves me correct. I've found through years of gardening that a 18-4-9 produces good flowers and fruiting. Good example is the greenhouse tomatoes I have growing now, which were hit very heavy with the slow release 18-4-9, so heavy that I'm getting leaf curling suggesting too much salts. BUT, they are frickin' loaded with small fruit and covered in yellow flowers and moderate amounts of foliage. Temps get down to 35F before the heater cuts in which is really weird cause you usually get tomato flower drop below temps of 55F. There has been NO flower drop.

Shit can most forum thought and paradigms and the snake oils/supplements/additive......... grow your pot like you would a tomato plant and you should be able to outproduce anyone at RIU if all cultural factors are in balance.

UB
 
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giantsalwayswin

Member
UB, I first off want to thank you for the knowledge I have recieved from you, I am on my first grow, and have seen you mention SoB (Sea of Bush) more then a few times, after googling and searching I found virtually no info on this, I tried PMing ya but to no avail, I was wondering if you could fill me in on this method, as I plan on trying to get the number of plants to a minimum, but want them to be as large as possible, the only other thread I've posted in is my grow journal if you want to check it out, thanks ahead of time my man!
 
G

giantsalwayswin

Member
ahhh soo your little secret method :) no wonder I couldn't find any info on it!! Well any tips/pointers would be awesome I'm using a DR90 grow room, doing Caramelicious right now, if you wanna check out my grow journal and let me know what you think. Def going for fewer but bushier plants!! I'm getting ready to use your method of topping on some new ones, and the bigger ones have been loving the super cropping!
 
dozer777

dozer777

Active Member
I'm in the middle of a reveg of purple kush. I don't have a very big room. 5/7/7.5. Was going to try and fit 6 in there but, decided against it. Now have 4 in there and hoping for increased yield with less but, bushier plants.
 
Uncle Ben

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
dozer777 said:
So you feed N throughout flower? I just started the switch and was wondering what you think is a good ratio? I'm using organic nutes and was planning on half veg nutes to 1 bloom nutes. Sound about right?
Click to expand...
You do whatever it takes to keep the leaves green as they drive production.
 
MADnuggi

MADnuggi

Member
Uncle Ben, do you really think keeping your leaves so green in the last 2-3 weeks is beneficial? I feel like even though/if yield may increase this just makes for extra leafy, "greener", fluffier buds. The N fed plant may be bigger and have more leafs intact at the end but the buds will not be as "good" as the one fed with less and less N for the duration of flowering
 
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