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farmerEd
Active Member
Yea I haven't tried it yet...guys at the shop said it was gonna be a few months before his strains start rolling in, and that was on 4/20 so should have a sample soon...hope it lives p to the hyper cuz they all rave about it!
MG Canna
Active Member
Most mixes don't come with nutrients added, but Roots has a soilless coco mix that has almost the same additives as the Roots Original mix. Anyone who says they do hydro with coco is full of it.....but people do say it. I know for sure, that Sunshine , Roots, and Fox Farm make both soil and soilless mixes.
Peat moss: The physical and chemical properties of peat moss make it an ideal base for most soilless mixes because it can hold both water and air. It’s light, but its fibrous structure allows it to hold 15 to 20 times its weight in water. The peat fibers also give it a large amount of pore space (80 to 90 percent of its total volume). It holds nutrients well, and it readily shares them with the roots, thanks to its slightly acidic pH. Horticultural-grade peats come from the decomposed remains of sphagnum moss species that have accumulated over centuries in peat bogs. They are not a renewable resource, however, and concerns about the sustainability of harvesting this product is a common topic of discussion among gardeners. Another type of peat that is used in soilless mixes is known as reed-sedge peat, but this material is generally inferior to sphagnum peat.
Composted pine bark: This material is a renewable resource and is one of the most widely used components in commercial container media, although barks from many other species are also processed for this purpose. Bark lacks the moisture-holding capacity of peat moss, but it can dramatically increase the porosity of a mix. Bark particles used in container media generally range in size from dustlike to about 3/8 inch in diameter.
Coir: Another renewable organic material is coir, a derivative of coconut hulls that shows promise as a peat substitute. Coir has exceptional water-holding capacity, and when mixed with pine bark, it can eliminate or substantially reduce the need for peat moss in a mix. Other sources of organic matter that can be used in soilless mixes include composted manures, leaf mold, and crop residues such as rice hulls.
Inorganic ingredients improve drainage and add weight
Inorganic ingredients improve drainage and add weight Inorganic ingredients like sand, vermiculite, and perlite generally lend porosity to a mix, but they can also help retain moisture and add weight or density.
Sand: This material can add needed weightto peat- and bark-based mixes and fill large pore spaces without impairing drainage. Coarse sand is preferred in most cases, and sand ground from granite is used in the best mixes. Fine sand with rounded grains like that found at the beach can actually reduce drainage when used in excessive amounts.
Vermiculite: A mineral that has been heated until it expands into small accordion-shaped particles, vermiculite holds large amounts of both air and water. But it can easily be compacted, so avoid packing down mixes containing large quantities of it. Vermiculite can also retain nutrients and help a mix resist changes in pH.
Perlite: One of the more common ingredients in commercial potting mixes, perlite is an inert ingredient manufactured by heating a volcanic material to produce lightweight white particles. It promotes good drainage while holding nearly as much water as vermiculite. Other inorganic materials that are useful in potting media include polystyrene (plastic) beads and calcined clay, which is similar to kitty litter. Plastic beads are inert and serve only to promote drainage, but calcined-clay particles can actually improve the moisture- and nutrient-holding capacity of a mix.
The ideal mix: Generally, most container plants will thrive in a mix that contains about 40 percent peat moss, 20 percent pine bark, 20 percent vermiculite, and 20 percent perlite or sand.
Peat moss: The physical and chemical properties of peat moss make it an ideal base for most soilless mixes because it can hold both water and air. It’s light, but its fibrous structure allows it to hold 15 to 20 times its weight in water. The peat fibers also give it a large amount of pore space (80 to 90 percent of its total volume). It holds nutrients well, and it readily shares them with the roots, thanks to its slightly acidic pH. Horticultural-grade peats come from the decomposed remains of sphagnum moss species that have accumulated over centuries in peat bogs. They are not a renewable resource, however, and concerns about the sustainability of harvesting this product is a common topic of discussion among gardeners. Another type of peat that is used in soilless mixes is known as reed-sedge peat, but this material is generally inferior to sphagnum peat.
Composted pine bark: This material is a renewable resource and is one of the most widely used components in commercial container media, although barks from many other species are also processed for this purpose. Bark lacks the moisture-holding capacity of peat moss, but it can dramatically increase the porosity of a mix. Bark particles used in container media generally range in size from dustlike to about 3/8 inch in diameter.
Coir: Another renewable organic material is coir, a derivative of coconut hulls that shows promise as a peat substitute. Coir has exceptional water-holding capacity, and when mixed with pine bark, it can eliminate or substantially reduce the need for peat moss in a mix. Other sources of organic matter that can be used in soilless mixes include composted manures, leaf mold, and crop residues such as rice hulls.
Inorganic ingredients improve drainage and add weight
Inorganic ingredients improve drainage and add weight Inorganic ingredients like sand, vermiculite, and perlite generally lend porosity to a mix, but they can also help retain moisture and add weight or density.
Sand: This material can add needed weightto peat- and bark-based mixes and fill large pore spaces without impairing drainage. Coarse sand is preferred in most cases, and sand ground from granite is used in the best mixes. Fine sand with rounded grains like that found at the beach can actually reduce drainage when used in excessive amounts.
Vermiculite: A mineral that has been heated until it expands into small accordion-shaped particles, vermiculite holds large amounts of both air and water. But it can easily be compacted, so avoid packing down mixes containing large quantities of it. Vermiculite can also retain nutrients and help a mix resist changes in pH.
Perlite: One of the more common ingredients in commercial potting mixes, perlite is an inert ingredient manufactured by heating a volcanic material to produce lightweight white particles. It promotes good drainage while holding nearly as much water as vermiculite. Other inorganic materials that are useful in potting media include polystyrene (plastic) beads and calcined clay, which is similar to kitty litter. Plastic beads are inert and serve only to promote drainage, but calcined-clay particles can actually improve the moisture- and nutrient-holding capacity of a mix.
The ideal mix: Generally, most container plants will thrive in a mix that contains about 40 percent peat moss, 20 percent pine bark, 20 percent vermiculite, and 20 percent perlite or sand.
Medshed
Well-Known Member
Hey uro - I'm pretty much done with Roots too. My Qush and Pandora's Box both looked like shit for the first few weeks when I had them on straight Roots. At first I thought it was nute burn because I had read in Subcool's forum that the Roots was running hot for some people. By the time I figured out it was a deficiency they were looking really sad. I've since begun feeding with Earth Juice and they are back on track. Anyway, I'm thinking about skipping the whole commercial soil hassle and using my own mix. I have some recipes from when I first switched to organics. I am going to mix up a batch from one of those recipes and see how it goes.Eakamouse have you ordered the goji og yet? I was wondering, if they are sold out by the time I get paid and you get a male in the bunch if I could get a cut of him?I wanna X him with my flo to make some flOGijEveryone: I'm getting pissed off at my soil roots, first gnats and now mg deficiencies before I should have them any recommendations on other soil besides foxfarm don't like that either
wald095
Member
indipow82
Well-Known Member
House hunting is almost finished! Wife and I are going to be planning a party/getogether for next month near the end! Let everyone know whats up through PM in the next week what the date is, address and all that. If anyone wants to stay over for the night because of a long drive, let me know. We will have plenty of room, food and all the usual goodies!
uromastyx
Well-Known Member
Yea I have never had any issues with roots, a couple of gnats here and there but thats easy to fix. The last bag I had was totally infested with them again not hard to fix but it was really irritating. When I transplanted the chocR into it they developed a mg deficiency I thought it was bc they may have been rootbound even tho they were in airpots. Now I have noticed the same thing happening to the clones I have transplantmixed into it all get the beginning signs of a mg deficiency nothing hard to fix but I want a consistent soil or i might swith over to soiless
indipow82
Well-Known Member
Berger BM6 is my shit! It is sphagnum peat moss, composted woodbark and perlite. I used to use H&G nutes but they got to expensive so I switched to Canna Substra and it works great. I can honestly say I cannot remember the last time I had a real issue with anything in my garden besides some heat since I have used soiless medium.
uromastyx
Well-Known Member
I think ill have to try it out. For soiless do you use the soil or hydro feeding charts?
anyways some pics im really starting to like the chocolope dom pheno of the chocoR (more indica looking one)
the ak47 is starting to bud
and the floXheij if the one on the top right doesn't pop its seed shell by tonight its going in the trash (no place for weaklings if I wanna bx)
anyways some pics im really starting to like the chocolope dom pheno of the chocoR (more indica looking one)
the ak47 is starting to bud
and the floXheij if the one on the top right doesn't pop its seed shell by tonight its going in the trash (no place for weaklings if I wanna bx)
indipow82
Well-Known Member
Yeah, everything is still the same as soil so no worries there. Just keep watch with your feedings and once your dialed in, you will probably never see a deficiency again! I also noticed my soiless dries up a day or two faster because is much more airy and breathes so damn good. That is also due to my airpots!
Hotsause
Well-Known Member
HOLY SHIT i hate the smell of Mykos.... As soon as you put it into a tea it smells like rotten eggs. Absolutely fowel but i got instant white foam on top. Sigh guess ill just have to learn to deal with the smell
today i think i went a little overboard but heres my tea mix
2 Gallons of Water
3TBS of Worm Casting
3 Tbs Bat Guano
3 Tbs Sea Bird Guano
2 Tbs Liquid Karma
2 Tbs Humbolt Honey
1 Tbs Moll asses
and a tiny bit of Mikos
today i think i went a little overboard but heres my tea mix
2 Gallons of Water
3TBS of Worm Casting
3 Tbs Bat Guano
3 Tbs Sea Bird Guano
2 Tbs Liquid Karma
2 Tbs Humbolt Honey
1 Tbs Moll asses
and a tiny bit of Mikos
