Germination problems

bblunt

Well-Known Member
Hi. I cracked an OG Kush seed last week using the paper towel method. I planted it in potting mix after it sprouted a tail. When the seedling emerged from the ground, the seed casing was clamped over the cotyledons. After a day it still didn't fall off or loosen. I tried to pull it off and I ended up tearing the tips of the leaves. It's recovering now but it looks kind of crappy.

Also, when germinating, I've had a few seeds that have only cracked open a little. It opens enough to see a green shoot inside, but not enough to let the shoot out.

What should you do in situations like these?
 

Bueller

Member
get better seedstock or revise your germination methods..maybe try seeds in glass of water for 24 hrs to soften the outer shell, seeds a little old or your letting them dry a little during germination? Likely just dud seeds......
 

balactus

Well-Known Member
Also helps to scuff up the outside of the seed before germinating like rolling up a sheet of sand paper and having the seeds get shaken up in there. It will allow for better moisture absorption.
 

F A B

New Member
Also helps to scuff up the outside of the seed before germinating like rolling up a sheet of sand paper and having the seeds get shaken up in there. It will allow for better moisture absorption.
good advice
thats call scarification
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
Take a match box and cut a peace of sand paper to fit in the box, then place your seeds in it and shake!
This is classic scarification.
 

balactus

Well-Known Member
Lol well I never knew the name for the thing, I only knew to do it for better success in germinating.
 

F A B

New Member
Is that what its really called or the FAB word for it lol. It just doesn't sound legit.
no lol its not the fab name
[h=1]Scarification[/h]By Vanessa Richins Myers, About.com Guide

See More About:


Definition: Seeds with hard coats may need to be scarified - the process where the seed coat is modified in some way so that moisture can enter and germination occurs.
There are several methods of scarification:

  • Soaking the seeds in hot water
  • Using a file or sandpaper (one must be careful to not go too deep and damage the embryo inside)
  • Acid (this can be quite dangerous and you must follow directions carefully!)

The type of scarification will depend on which seeds you are germinating.

Pronunciation: skar-uh-fi-key-shuhn
 

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
no lol its not the fab name
Scarification

By Vanessa Richins Myers, About.com Guide

See More About:


Definition: Seeds with hard coats may need to be scarified - the process where the seed coat is modified in some way so that moisture can enter and germination occurs.
There are several methods of scarification:

  • Soaking the seeds in hot water
  • Using a file or sandpaper (one must be careful to not go too deep and damage the embryo inside)
  • Acid (this can be quite dangerous and you must follow directions carefully!)

The type of scarification will depend on which seeds you are germinating.

Pronunciation: skar-uh-fi-key-shuhn
Nice fab lol
 

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
Here some pointers germinate in a cup keeping it covered with plastic and a rubber band till the shell comes off if it still don't fall off by it self make sure it's very moist and humid when you try help don't do it when it's dry~
 

Edgar9

Well-Known Member
If you're going to start spending $ on seeds it's best to set yourself up with the germ kit from htg that costs $35.

Trust me, I went from 30% success to basically 100%. Since the kit I haven't had a seed not start. I combined the kit with a work light and cfl bulb from home depot and I have a bullet proof seed starting station.

with the kit you get a heat mat which makes a huge difference. A humidity dome and the starter plugs and trays. Hang the light above the dome with the cfl about 3 inches from the dome's top and you're good to go.

Put the seed in the plug moisten the plug and then put a little bit of water in the bottom of the dome and leave it alone.

That's it. No paper towels or pre-soaking, etc. The seeds do their dance in the starter plugs. They reposition themselves and do their thing.

Also don't touch the sprout. It will eventually dump the shell. Sometimes I also can't help but take a pair of tweezers and help out a little but it's a dangerous game.

Your other seeds that didn't come up would have probably succeded if you at least had a heat mat. It sounds like they didn't have enough energy to lift themselves up or break out, etc.
 

balactus

Well-Known Member
While paying an extra 35$ dollars on a portion of the grow that will only last a couple days sounds very appealing -__-...you can get away with the paper towel and such. He is right about having some heat though. They like warmth. Its summer I mean if your house gets some heat, find a decently warm high place (since heat rises) and leave your seeds up there in darkness of course. Heat pad is only really needed for germinating but later down the line if you can keep them warm during lights out you would also probably need the heating pad.
 

F A B

New Member
[h=2]The Germination Process[/h] The germination of your marijuana seeds usually starts with curiosity, then quickly turns into a serious hobby (garden).
The following is a successful step-by-step process for marijuana seed germination on any budget. It generally works very well.
How to germinate marijuana seeds, cannabis sativa, and pot seeds.
Class is in session, light up and pay attention!
Always be sure that your work area is clean. This includes YOU. Wash your hands every time before working with seeds - it will increase your success.

Nicotine is like poison to cannabis - to both the seeds and the plants. If you smoke cigarettes, it's all over your fingers.

Preparation & Supplies
In preparing to germinate your seeds whether one or a dozen, make sure you have everything you need and that it is also clean. I use so much anti-bacterial soap in my garden that I do recommend it. (hands, buckets, tweezers, shot glasses, etc.)

Pre-soaking Method
For our tutorial, we are using a shot glass, mineral water at room temperature, and our chosen seed(s). We use masking tape and a marker to identify our seeds when germinating multiple cannabis strains.


You can probably use your local water with one caution... Fill a pitcher or a jug with the water one whole day before you will be using it and leave it open. This allows chlorine and other potentially harmful chemicals to escape into the open air before use.

Day One
Half fill your glass with mineral water. We have taken a single seed (female), and placed it in the water (shot glass). Notice that the seed is initially floating.
We have identified this seed and now we need to put it away in a warm and dark place for 24-30 hours. This allows the seed to absorb water. The seed does not need or like any light yet, but likes everything warm.
The cannabis seed simply needs warm air, moisture and darkness to begin it's life.


Select a warm spot that stays consistent in the temperature it offers (like on your water heater). We cover our glass with a dark cup to keep out all of the surrounding light.
Keeping a temperature of between 75° to 85° Fahrenheit is excellent for starting seeds.
Again, leave this covered and warm for at least 24 hours. This will allow the seed to absorb water, and is an excellent indication that the seed can grow.

Day Two
When you return the next day and uncover your glass, you may notice that the seed sank to the bottom (as illustrated). If it did not, have no fear. Try stirring the water with your clean finger. The seed may have absorbed water and still be afloat by a bubble or dry spot (happens all the time).
If the seed still floats, you can add some fresh water* and check back again in 8-12 hours. After that, you can still plant the seed, but chances are slim that it will take hold.


I then take a cup of my personal grow mix (soil) that is the same mix I use in my plants through-out their maturity. This means (to me) that I only transplant once, and it's moved into the same exact grow medium. This prevents additional shock or stress when moved to their final container.

I use a solo cup and slice four slits in the bottom for good water drainage and added aeration. It also makes the transplant very easy. Allow soil to dry, cut slits down the cup sides and gingerly remove plant. Be easy on all the tender roots.

I carefully place the seed into the soil with the knot side up. I only place it about 3/16" under the soil surface and water thoroughly. I am still only using water* at this point.
When I water* the soil, it tends to move some soil over the seed. I label my cup and place it in a dome for high humidity and added warmth (shown next to a clone). Position a small grow light above the dome and have the timer the same as your 18 hour garden clock. We want some air, moisture, warmth and light right now.
Lights should remain ON for 16 - 20 hours and OFF for 4 - 8 hours. You are deciding this right now, because changing this light cycle in mid-growth IS stress for the plant - we will control the lights completely. This is the 'trigger' for future growth stages. I recommend 18 hours ON, 6 hours OFF.


Day Three
Keep the soil moist, but not wet... there is a difference. After my initial watering, I do not water* it again for 2-3 days, and then I am spraying water* over my cup of soil.
Usually, in about 2-5 days you will see the seedling begin to pop out of the soil. I have seen seeds take 11 days, but usually less.
Sometimes, as in this example, the seed shell stays attached while the seedling works it's way upward and fights to exist.

Once the seedling has broken ground and I can see green leaves, I remove the cup from the humidity dome. Move your new baby to the nursery side of your garden with the 16-18 hour grow light cycle and circulating air.
Spray the leaves with water* for two days to help transition from the high humidity dome.
As the seed uncurls and begins it's beautiful life, it will lose the seed case and begin to sprout it's first leaves.
Congratulations! We have now moved from the germination stage to the seedling stage. Patience, cleanliness and good soil products can help insure a high percentage of germination success with your seeds.
Day Four
As you can see, the sprout stretches upward while wrestling with the seed casing to be released (all this work for our smoking pleasure).
As it spends more time under the light, the sprout should be able to shake the seed and begin to form it's first 2 leaves (cotyledon).
You will find that once you have a regiment down that works, it's fairly easy to germinate your cannabis seeds indoors at any time of the year.
First Week
Your new seedling is alive and prospering. In our example, you can leave it in the cup for a couple of weeks while it gains strength.
It has everything it needs to begin a stress free life. From here we move into the caring and growing of your marijuana.


At times, I plant more than one seed to a cup. Sometimes I leave them both in the cup, and sometimes I separate them immediately after they break ground.

You should now be on your way to some wonderful romance with your plants. Do not be afraid to talk and raise your youngsters to be strong and vigorous and 'stinky' young ladies. It's what I call "marijuana karma" because it all comes back to you in the end.
Be careful not to over water* your seedlings. Wait for the top of the soil to get dry and crusty before watering again.

Water* - In this Chapter, the term water relates to mineral water, distilled or bottled water, or water that has sat in open air for 20-30 hours.
Giving the seedlings a mild nitrogen mixture (like Nutri-grow™) in your water* will help vigorous, healthy growth at this stage if your soil does not compensate in this important area. Be careful! They are still young and very impressionable.
Once your seedling has 5-7 growing days in the cup, you can transplant it anytime to it's larger container. Make this large enough for the life of the plant (I use 3-5 gallon containers) I never want to run out of room (soil) at the point of flowering. If you are pruning, you can get away with smaller containers.
 

Woodstuck

Active Member
It is one thing to take my content and put it up under your name. I am sure you know that you should have given weedsthatplease.com 'snaps' for providing that information. However, what truly angered me was that you created links to your products and seeds from within my content. Please remove these links and credit me for the content. Otherwise, this is outright Copyright Infringement... As I am sure you already know this.

Is it so much to ask that at the bottom you say - This information provided by weedsthatplease.com? Or that would maybe give the appearance that you did not write it? Remove the links please.

- Woodstuck
www.weedsthatplease.com
 
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