Everything you need to know, what is happening to my plants?

P

Picnic101

Member
NEW Pictures added below . Seems to be getting worse any help?

Best way to explain is just start from the so start so
First time grower learned everything i have to this point browsing on different sites now im stuck.
Growing time :1 month 2 days so far ( Still in veg)
Placed in rockwool (Which was left soaking for 24 hours in 5.5 ph water )
Ordered Ministry of cannabis big budd seeds 5 of them to test out my new grow room.
4/5 germinated and been placed into my HYDRO NFT system 2 channels 4 holes in each.
All germinated at 1 week apart . ( they took about 4- 10 days to sprout)
Biggest is :4 weeks
2 x medium : 3 weeks ( All these times are from placing the seed into the rockwell cubes
smallest is : 2 weeks .
Light: 400 w MHS
Time is 18 hours on 6 hours off i have varied this between 24/7
The litte plant seems to be falling behind not growing quickly .
Started using this store fertizliser .
Its called GrowZilla or Budzilla the grow is 30 - 5 - 29
Temperatures are 18-25 . .
I posted here about a week ago with the same similar problem which lahadextranjera (Member) helped me out saying those npk values are not good and it is probably a P issue. I moved to flair-form fertilizer
Plants immediately recovered after placing a ppm of 400 into the rez.
A week has gone but the same problems seem to be coming up? I have looked into the roots they looked fine ( i think ripped one is this okay???).
The pH of the res is always 5.8 and the ppm currently is 800. ( checking the ppm and ph everyday the plants are taking in the nutrient/water in at the same rate. )
Some of the leaves fading dark green to lite exspeac round the edges is it today with the light?
Attached below are pictures of my set up
Please help sorry for the wall of text but tried to give as much information as possible.


If u do want to ask any question, just ask just want my girls to be fixed.

IMG_20120807_213038.jpgIMG_20120807_213054.jpgIMG_20120807_213101.jpgIMG_20120807_213118(1).jpgIMG_20120807_213128.jpgIMG_20120807_213135.jpgIMG_20120712_191135.jpgIMG_20120807_213028.jpgIMG_20120801_132914.jpgIMG_20120810_081116.jpgIMG_20120810_081135.jpg

 
MrGhettoGrower

MrGhettoGrower

Well-Known Member
You must have some college to write like that Ewww and the pic are a little dark
but I not the hydro guy I'm a dirt guy and 800 ppms are pushing it for that little
of a plant if it was in dirt and are your meter cool and accurate don't you think that
the leaf in pic 4 looks burnt but the leaf in pic 9 looks under fed or possible just
got wet with nutrientized water or whatever~
 
himalayanhashish

himalayanhashish

Active Member
hey mate, im a noobie hydro grower- juz started my first hydro set(flood and drain) up after 20-25 years in soil and organics... why it took so long i dont know loL BUT considering your nutrient mix is so low(which isnt soo bad in the vegetative stage tbh) infact it does appear to be extra low it COULD be a P deficiency- P deficiency seems to be most characterized by symptoms such as stunted plants with dull, dark and sometimes discoloured leaves, unusually hard stems, and poor root system, and very little branching- attacks lower more mature leaves first... but does occur ESPECIALLY when N levels are low. if you also find that your leaves start to yellow and lose colour BUT the veins remain relatively green you COULD be looking at a magnesium deficiency. also check iron deficiency where the tips of new leaves will turn pale or yellow and move inwards...the leaf will likely turn blotchy from lack of pigmentation.. eventually turning brown and drying out. your ph seems fine... you are using growzilla i see.. do you have growzilla A and B?? how are you mixing the two together? from recollection you would be looking at using a dilution of around 5ml to every litre of water.... so a 30 litre res, for e.g., might be wanting 150mils of growzilla.. ?? if you are using the two(A and B) then you would want to mix them seperately and NOT together as they will react... im working with a cf/ec of approx 1.8 in my veg cycle(cf=18/ec=1.8) and everything seems ok SO FAR. i would also recommend the use of a foliar spray.. using the same nutrient but at a DILUTED ratio(1-7 or even 1-10) and spray directly to leaves once per day.. this is what i have used in the past to remedy mild deficiencies with great success after only a day or two.. especially with trace element issues that are very hard to identify...

wish you the best of luck!!!
 
P

Picnic101

Member
himalayanhashish said:
hey mate, im a noobie hydro grower- juz started my first hydro set(flood and drain) up after 20-25 years in soil and organics... why it took so long i dont know loL BUT considering your nutrient mix is so low(which isnt soo bad in the vegetative stage tbh) infact it does appear to be extra low it COULD be a P deficiency- P deficiency seems to be most characterized by symptoms such as stunted plants with dull, dark and sometimes discoloured leaves, unusually hard stems, and poor root system, and very little branching- attacks lower more mature leaves first... but does occur ESPECIALLY when N levels are low. if you also find that your leaves start to yellow and lose colour BUT the veins remain relatively green you COULD be looking at a magnesium deficiency. also check iron deficiency where the tips of new leaves will turn pale or yellow and move inwards...the leaf will likely turn blotchy from lack of pigmentation.. eventually turning brown and drying out. your ph seems fine... you are using growzilla i see.. do you have growzilla A and B?? how are you mixing the two together? from recollection you would be looking at using a dilution of around 5ml to every litre of water.... so a 30 litre res, for e.g., might be wanting 150mils of growzilla.. ?? if you are using the two(A and B) then you would want to mix them seperately and NOT together as they will react... im working with a cf/ec of approx 1.8 in my veg cycle(cf=18/ec=1.8) and everything seems ok SO FAR. i would also recommend the use of a foliar spray.. using the same nutrient but at a DILUTED ratio(1-7 or even 1-10) and spray directly to leaves once per day.. this is what i have used in the past to remedy mild deficiencies with great success after only a day or two.. especially with trace element issues that are very hard to identify...

wish you the best of luck!!!
Click to expand...
#

Hey dude thanks for the reply.
Have changed to flairfoom 3.1.5 veg and flower 2.2.6 ( Is this better or should i change to somethign a bit high 7-4-10 , 4-8-7)
The plants have been growing so much better now! Building 2 areoponics units atm so i can a cycle going .
Only problem with the plants is they are turning really pale at the tips then slowing going back to dark green in the middle is this n??
Thanks
 
P

Picnic101

Member
Bump new pictures added . Looking through def images is it a magnesium def? i have just added 4 tsp of epsom salt to my 20l res will this help
 
himalayanhashish

himalayanhashish

Active Member
hey dude,

in my limited experience with hydro.. but 25 years experience with horticulture and soil/organic i can say, if you are getting yellowing of the leaves PARTICULARLY the lower leaves(beginning from the tips), a general overall paleness to leaves - stunted plants with slow growth but still having a large root system then yes i would go with N deficiency.. also with N def your plant will continue to produce foliage but the stems will be spindly, sappy and soft, slow and small buds and its general immunity will drop considerably making it prone to all manner of disease.. but iron deficiency can also start from the tips of the leaves.. but the difference being that iron def begins with NEW leaves and spread inwards(mentioned above) and will gradually progress to blotchy appearance and eventual browning and drying out. epsom salts is what i use for mag deficiency too so all good there- mag def usually shows itself once it is well set in and you can usually tell if its mag def by the leaf turning yellow but the veins remaining green and similarly to iron def there will appear an eventual browning and drying out of the leaves and flowers will be very slow to develop if at all.

as far as your nutrient is concerned flairform seems like a well reputed product altho i personally am using growzilla A and B with added nitrozyme to help with structural growth and general improvement to plant development and budding sites... and will move on to budzilla with added headmaster for the flowering cycle. the main feature you look for, if you dont know already, is during the vegetative stage you want a heavier N nutrient and gradually move into a low N nutrient but heavier P and K nutrient for flowering... as long as the nutrient has a good supply of trace elements/micro nutrients and suits the stage of growing you are at presently then i would go with it- there are so many good hydro nutrients available on the market i would go with what works for others and not try to re-invent the wheel- so to speak, until you are experienced with nutrient factors and what each individual nutrient does for the plant.. at which point you could probably make your own :D which i DO for my soil grows(kina/sea urchin shells(great for trace elements)/fish bones and guts, seaweed etc)

i wish you all the best in your growing experimentation brother!!
 
ringlead3r

ringlead3r

Active Member
are you using RO water? Whats your res water temp and I believe that new fertilizer is to low also make sure all your unused holes are covered so no light gets in chambers I actually ran nft and if the system itself isn't perfect it shows through the plants I also believe your ppm should be 800-1000 depending on the fertilizer recommendations. changing numbers in your res tank a lot can make your plants look deficient alone.
 
P

Picnic101

Member
ringlead3r said:
are you using RO water? Whats your res water temp and I believe that new fertilizer is to low also make sure all your unused holes are covered so no light gets in chambers I actually ran nft and if the system itself isn't perfect it shows through the plants I also believe your ppm should be 800-1000 depending on the fertilizer recommendations. changing numbers in your res tank a lot can make your plants look deficient alone.
Click to expand...
Hey no i am using tap water . has a ph of 6.5 i let it sit for about 48 hours in containers before actually using it in my NFt system. Recommended fert is 1200ppm so should i increase it?. If you look at my new post u can see that my plants are getting worse and now are drooping i have tried to flush it with a 400ppm mixture nothing else but they are just drooping dont look to healthly. All areas were light can get to the water have been covered . Temp of res is 18.8c and ph is 5.8 ( this changed quite a bit). Thankyou
 
himalayanhashish

himalayanhashish

Active Member
hey dude, how are your plants going?? are your leaves still drooping?

just looking thru some old tips i have in a book...
leaves drooping could be temp too high(cool down), not enough fluid/nutes(check that system is delivering enough solution), nutrient solution is too strong(flush with clean water for a few days then resume with fresh nutes)... hope they have recovered bro- just wanted to share some basic troubleshooting tips from this book
 
hiluxphantom

hiluxphantom

Well-Known Member
well if i were you i would stop using tap water I think its amazing u went and got an aeroflo and didnt get an ro filter
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top