Electrical question

[The Count]

I called greners and they had to call CAP but were on hold so they left them a message cause he wasnt sure. He suggested I call the maker of the LED to see if it can handle 240v since thats all that would really matter. I plan on hooking up my wall fans and CO2 monitor to this as well so hopefully theres no issues. I just bought this last yr so it's definitely a new version... all my info on it is just coming off the manual. I have a cheap ass fan I dont really care about that Ill plug in to see what happens. If the fan runs with no problems then anything else should be good to go. I still have to splice in with the 10gauge wire so itll be another day or two... gotta "head to home depot and maybe bed bath and beyond... not sure if well have time haha" Thanks for replying tho I appreciate you taking the time to work with me.

 

[The Count]

Scooby - Just wanted to give you an update. We might have just been confusing eachother... the MLC WILL take a 120 plug but if what your plugging in is not rated for 240 it will fry whatever it is. I called CAP or whomever makes them and the guy confirmed this. I'm thinking that whatever you're using is rated to handle both 120 or 240 otherwise hes telling me it would fry it. Basically you cant just plug anything into it or else it would fry it b/c its going to make it work harder. His example was the if you plug a 120 fan into a 240 outlet it will work but eventually it will burn out the motor bc its just going to make it work too hard.

 

[ScoobyDoobyDoo]

Scooby - Just wanted to give you an update. We might have just been confusing eachother... the MLC WILL take a 120 plug but if what your plugging in is not rated for 240 it will fry whatever it is. I called CAP or whomever makes them and the guy confirmed this. I'm thinking that whatever you're using is rated to handle both 120 or 240 otherwise hes telling me it would fry it. Basically you cant just plug anything into it or else it would fry it b/c its going to make it work harder. His example was the if you plug a 120 fan into a 240 outlet it will work but eventually it will burn out the motor bc its just going to make it work too hard.

thanks for the headup man. i'm gonna have to check into this. i've got some inline fans hooked up to mine and they are not rated for 240v. a few of them have been running on those controllers for 3 years and never had a problem. i'm gonna have to make some calls and find out. thanks.

 

[The Count]

Keep me updated ... My problem is solved with my LEDs being rated for 240 and the T5 im gonna get for my mother room is 240v rated as well so Ill just plug my lights into the MLC and my fans and other small wattage stuff into my single 120.

 

[sheik yerbouti]

Electrician here (apprentice). Looked at the wiring diagram for the CAP MLC and they do make it really confusing talking about the 120/240 plugs. For the best of my knowledge a plug is only wired for either 120v or 240v. Not sure how the claim they're 120v/240v plugs and sounds like talking with the guy at the store he confirmed this.

If you need to get a 120v source out of that controller all you need to do is open the box up so you can see the wiring. Take a look at the wiring to the plugs, there will be a black and a red going to a terminal on each side of the plug. Each of these wires has 120v supplied, putting 2 of them too a plug gives you 240v available. If you take one off and replace it with a neutral you will now have a 120v plug, its just about taking the right wire off. The wire suppling the t-slotted terminal will stay and the other will be replaced with a neutral. Bringing a 3 wire #10 will supply your neutral. Looking at the wiring diagram I don't see a neutral terminal though.

So if you supply your controllers with a 3 wire #10 from either your panel or dryer plug and bring the wires in as normal then do what I say you can have both 240v and 120v at your controller. Just label it so you don't forget. Hope this makes sense! Call up the manufacturer and ask them how to wire it up for 120v and they should be able to help you out more than I can typing it out.

 

[Warlock1369]

Anytime you do anything to a cap product you killed any warranty. Hell even placing tape on it can void it. R&M don't like exchanging anything.

 

[The Count]

Electrician here (apprentice). Looked at the wiring diagram for the CAP MLC and they do make it really confusing talking about the 120/240 plugs. For the best of my knowledge a plug is only wired for either 120v or 240v. Not sure how the claim they're 120v/240v plugs and sounds like talking with the guy at the store he confirmed this.

If you need to get a 120v source out of that controller all you need to do is open the box up so you can see the wiring. Take a look at the wiring to the plugs, there will be a black and a red going to a terminal on each side of the plug. Each of these wires has 120v supplied, putting 2 of them too a plug gives you 240v available. If you take one off and replace it with a neutral you will now have a 120v plug, its just about taking the right wire off. The wire suppling the t-slotted terminal will stay and the other will be replaced with a neutral. Bringing a 3 wire #10 will supply your neutral. Looking at the wiring diagram I don't see a neutral terminal though.

So if you supply your controllers with a 3 wire #10 from either your panel or dryer plug and bring the wires in as normal then do what I say you can have both 240v and 120v at your controller. Just label it so you don't forget. Hope this makes sense! Call up the manufacturer and ask them how to wire it up for 120v and they should be able to help you out more than I can typing it out.

I called R&M and the only way u make it 120 is if ur 30amp service is 120v OR you can leave off one of the hots... Don't really feel comfortable with that bc it's still going to have electricity flowing through it and it's just going to be hanging free inside the MLC which leaves room for a fire if for any reason it comes in contact with anything... Checked with my LED maker and it is capable of 240 so no worries... The T5 I got for my mother room is also 240 rated so all is good...

Thanks for everyone's help here it's greatly appreciated

 

[Warlock1369]

Not realy true. A 220-240 uses a duble brake. So if you take the second (white/red) out of the breaker add it to the neutral bar it is now a 110 breaker. If it's a braker almost 2" wide you can now make that a new slot for another 110 outlet. Don't cut corners by doing it at the outlet. The main box is the best but you better know what your doing in there. I have a 4 wire 240 running to my house. I know this system but it stoped around mid 80's. But I question new electricians about it. If they don't give the right answer I kick them off. A do this on all my job sites.

 

[The Count]

I'm splicing into my 30amp dryer cord to run a cord to my MLC so I'm not messing with any brakers... I did the same thing at my old house and it worked good for 8months give er take. Just no drying while lights are on

 

[Warlock1369]

That's good. This thread did go a little to technical but if you don't know what we are talking about it's safe to say don't do this at home foks.

 

[Warlock1369]

Worst pokie pig impression I could ever do. Lol