DIY Modular LED-Light

guod

Well-Known Member
Any opinions/conclusions on the Merkaba layout?
did not found a better way of mixing Leds, but i´m still searching.
---------------
Astir goes Merkaba
a passive Version of the Modul based on the Osram Oslon series

passivModul1.jpgpassivModul2.jpgpassivModul3.jpgpassivModul4.jpg

3 Watt Chin. Leds are also possible.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
-xlr connectors are a great idea ! ( Although a bit heavy connectors ..)

-470 nm blue ...Ok ... 450-455 from CW & WW .....What about some NW instead of CW ?..
That way you'll ve also the 445-450 blue band .. ?

I really do like the 50:50 red config (630:660 ) ..

...Great overall design ...
Soon to be made & tested,brother Guod ?


Edit :

I feel jealous ...Osram Oslons ....
For me ,they will probably remain just a dream ....
I'm sure you 're aware of the wonderful
OSLON SSL 80 series ,LCW CQ7P.CC

CRI 95 version, warm and neutral white (2700 - 4000 K).

Both great ...
If I had the chance I 'd use those two LCW CQ7P.CC warm and neutral whites
with 630nm & 660 nm reds ....(maybe the reds on a separate channel )
 

guod

Well-Known Member
-470 nm blue ...Ok ... 450-455 from CW & WW .....What about some NW instead of CW ?..
That way you'll ve also the 445-450 blue band .. ?
NW instead of CW lowers the output at 450nm.
with the combo 470nm:CW both Peaks are more on the same Level
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Pass...
I still feel jealous ...

You 're going @350 mA ...
Are you planning also for passive cooling ..???

(Now at this case I would not risk it going passive ...
If I had Oslons ..No way ...
I would 've had a fan for sure ! -no need to be something of a speed monster there -
( emb papst ! ).maybe with an adjustable speed knob ,except on-off switch ...

My guess for the outcome : With two of these lights (24 + 24 Watts ) you'll beat any other antagonism on same wattage range ...
Guh-guh ....Ehm..You know what I mean ....
Both regarding Quantity And Quality ....

Eager to see how it will actually perform ...
Hope you will put it into test ,soon ...
That's probably a champ ,there ...
I'm bettin' on it ....
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
WhoAAAAaa! Now I've just noticed the "protective edge " ....

W-O-W !
That is the simplest & greatest idea ever, to protect the leds ,in case of panel falling ...

( Kinda like the screw-on "Mushrooms" from racing bike tech ..Same basic principle ! Edges impact first ! )

+1.

Edit : here's the design ,for DIY circuit printing directly to heatsink .
..View attachment 2478127View attachment 2478128
(What is black ,will be etched into copper .)
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Did you not notice the shadow image the lights created in the center?

To me, that's very significant. Proof of Sacred Geometry

I'm thinking, possibly put a small power crystal (amplifier) in the center of each cluster...
duplicate it, from the center out, as large as you want.

This may be the ultimate UFO/shape, whose cumulative effects of multiple clusters, might energetically super charge anything grown under it.

It certainly won't hurt, so why not? The remaining question is, which nm diodes, and where to position them to further amplify the energy

Anybody willing to test this? Pretty PLEASE
kiss-ass I promise to only say nice things about you, like Pioneer

 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
must be the bad 660nm... afaik.

Oh ,common now ....High root to shoot ratio isn't always a good thing ...
And yes , for this amazing rootball ,660nm leds ,probably 've contributed enough ...
(Still we do not smoke the roots .... But anyway ...Good root system is needed for good yields ..
And that root system is amazing ! Lots of biomass/energy was allocated there ...IYKWIM... ;-))




Edit :
-That's why I'm betting on the new one ...
...More balanced and full red spectrum there ....
Not only taking care the roots and PS I / ChA ,
but for the leaves and PSII / ChB also ....
I'm telling you ...
It's a champ !
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I agree..

But ...
In certain cases ,a rather "warm " root environment can be .....troubly ..
(Increased biological micro flora/fauna activity can lead to nutritional problems or lack of oxygen ....
If also, various Fungus happens to "walk by " ,for sure ,they will like the place ...
But anyway ...
Brother you've done an undeniable great work there.
As usual ...

Common ...
Get back to work now ....
(I can't wait to see those Oslons in action ....)
Man! You 're using ,my most favourite leds, there ...
Wishing you for all the luck,peace of mind and the commitment ,
it takes to build such a panel ...

...
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
It's not all important, but I agree, root temps are extremely important.

I have ample experience growin with high pressure aero where I keep peaking under the hood reading the "T" leaves so to speak. Generally speaking, As below, So above. If the roots ain't happy, momma ain't puttin out
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
-Guod ,is there a reason for "max 250 mm " between the two modules ?
You've gone really low in module power ,thus dispersing overall power way better and efficiently than of 1 x 24 panel (or module ...)

2 of those panels( 4 modules ) in a confined space 50 x 50 cm (my hard guess..) -or even for a bit more i.e 60 x 60 cm - will absolutely rock ...

-Are you going to use 80 ? (SSL 80 )... Still it might be wiser ,for the blue to be a SSL 150 ..Just the blue one ...

-Having the ability to drive them between 12 and 18 Watt ,is rather great ...
-Still I would have a quality silent fan there ...For the 18 Watt "full load " option...


And one last thing -just out of curiosity-
If at each module the central led was changed with a Oslon NW (~4000-5000 K )
And the three CW ,were replaced by three more Warm Whites ....
What would be the spectral % ?
Does it have an acceptable -red oriented - spectrum ?
Does it have a great output power difference ( mW - W ) ,with the current ?
 

guod

Well-Known Member
next cool spectrum-tool
in a Japanese/english mix
http://www.1023world.net/diy/spectra/

lot of Leds in it: cree, helio, lumiled, osram....

some hints...
klick on the spectrum on the right side for more info and a greater diagram.
in the outermost right column type in your number of leds, they will now display in the left Diagram with µmol etc
beam angle and distance can also be changed here.

a klick on the icon below the diagram and you will see more infos (similar to buildmyled)
to close this window hit the button below.
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the link guod, i'm messing around with it now, trying to compare ledengin WWs and XPGs. But i dont understand, is the Y-axis of the graph a percentage right? Since there is no listing of the current the ledengins are driven at for their stats, there is no way to compare unless i'm missing something?
 
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