1st Timer, not looking to spend a lot of money. Quick question

Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
Flaming Pie said:
Mollassas (wtf..spell check)
that is for the microorganisms right?

I'm thinking about buying some Mycorrizae for this grow. Like 2 bucks for a small pack of em at my hydro store.
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"Molasses", unless you're in the South, then it's 'Lasses' the first helping.
You don't say 'Mo-Lasses' until you want more.:-P
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
great thank you for your help so far. Will i be able to tell when/if my plants are starting to need nutes? Do you also think the blue LED from my computer fan will disrupt it's sleep cycle?
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
because i can't think of any other way to get air circulation, i could still run the exhaust fan b/c it doesn't't have a LED, but all my fans have blue LED's on them.
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
I hear a lot about ocean forest having a lot of nutes, will 70 OF /30 perlite be too strong for the beginning part of growth? My plant i sonly like 1 inch high and has stayed that way for about 3 days now
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
bsmooth24 said:
great thank you for your help so far. Will i be able to tell when/if my plants are starting to need nutes? Do you also think the blue LED from my computer fan will disrupt it's sleep cycle?
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I wouldn't worry for the first 3 weeks.
Generally, the first thing you will notice is some yellowing of the leaves towards the bottom, and the whole plant in general will seem a little lighter shade of green.
That could be an indication she is hungry for N.
Just to be sure, it would be a good idea to come on back and double check.
Anybody here will be glad to help you.
Here/s a couple charts you can save, that most likely will be of some use to you later on down the road.View attachment 2503322PHRANGECHART_zpsddd4a5c5.gif
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
what are your thoughts on chemical nutes vs grainular? The local nursery has happy frog fertilizer for 10 bucks for a pretty small bag. Does fertilizer = nutes? I dont need to grow a medicinal plant here, just SOMETHING that i can smoke ...i'd love to get an 8th at least haha. Is that in the realm of possibility with my given situation? Any cheap alternatives to buying tigerbloom/grow/and one more for $47 bucks on amazon?
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
i bought Ocean forest and some organic perlite. OC was 9.99 which sounds like a good deal and the little thing of perlite was 6 bucks...seemed really expensive. The soil is sitting by my furnace now so i'm hoping to get it a little warmer before i use it. If the soil is too cold can i microwave it for like 20 seconds or just leave it in my growbox for a day w/o putting the plant in it so it can warm up? My basement is pretty cold.

2. How best should i put in the medium? Just take a cup and go like 3 cups with the soil, then 1 with the perlite until it's full, then stick my hands in there and mix it up?
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
bsmooth24 said:
what are your thoughts on chemical nutes vs grainular? The local nursery has happy frog fertilizer for 10 bucks for a pretty small bag. Does fertilizer = nutes? I dont need to grow a medicinal plant here, just SOMETHING that i can smoke ...i'd love to get an 8th at least haha. Is that in the realm of possibility with my given situation? Any cheap alternatives to buying tigerbloom/grow/and one more for $47 bucks on amazon?
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I like powdered or liquid stuff myself, when I hear 'granular', I think of the stuff that you top dress with or mix into the soil when planting, and that I myself wouldn't do.
After the first 3 weeks of my plant's lives, up through the third week of flowering I feed with plain old Miracle Grow all purpose nutes (yes, nutes=food or fertilizer), then just this month I got some other stuff that I'm experimenting with, and my plant is 83 days old.
I use MG moisture control soil with 40% perlite mixed in, and for a bag of the two, I think I paid about $15.
One small bag of perlite was enough for me to do a solo cup, a 2 gallon bucket, and a 5 gal. pot, and I still have a little left.
If you're really on a budget, I'm guessing there are several tomato or vegetable fertilizers with a low nitrogen content that you could use to feed during flowering.
An eighth is a very achievable goal, and as long as you don't kill it, I think you'll get more than that.
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
If your basement is that cold, what are your plans to keep your plant warm?
I would just let your soil sit upstairs at normal room temp for a few hours to warm up.
Just get a larger bucket or bowl, and get a cup or something, take a couple scoops of soil, then eyeball it and try for somewhere between 25 and 40% of that in perlite.
If you have a little more than you can fit in your pot, just save it in a ziploc or something, it won't spoil.
 
Flaming Pie

Flaming Pie

Well-Known Member
I think an 1/8 should be doable.

Here is some info on deficiencies.

Before you assume the plant has a nutrient deficiency, make sure theproblem is not due to other causes. Examine the plant leaves, and along the stem and in the soil.

Even under the bestconditions, not all leaves form perfectly or remain perfectly green. Small leaves that grew on the young seedlingnormally die within a month or two. Under artificial lights, bottom leaves may be shielded from the light,or be too far away from the light to carry on chlorosynthesis. These leaves will gradually turn pale oryellow, and may form brown areas as they die. However, healthy large leaves should remain green at least three to fourfeet below the plant tops, even on those plants under small light systems. Under low light, the lower-growing shoots aswell as the large leaves on the main stem are affected. Some symptoms of nutrient deficiencies beginfirst at the bottom of the plant, but these symptoms generally affect the lowerleaves on the main stem first, and the progress to the leaves on the branches.

Although somedeficiency symptoms start on the lower, older leaves, others start at thegrowing shoots or at the top of the plants. This difference depends on whether or not the nutrient is mobile and canmove from the older leaves to the active growing shoot. Deficiency symptoms of mobile nutrients startat the bottom of the plant. Conversely,deficiency symptoms of immobile nutrients first appear on the younger leaves orgrowing shoots at the top of the plant. N, P, K, Mg, B, and Mb are mobile in the plant. Mn and Zn are less mobile, and Ca, S, Fe, andCu are generally immobile.

A dry atmosphere or wetsoil may cause the blade tips to turn brown. Brown leaf tips also may indicate a nutrient deficiency, but in thiscase, more tissue will turn brown than just the end tips.

Chlorosis and necrosisare two terms which describe symptoms of disease in plants. Chlorosis means lacking green(chlorophyll). Chlorotic leaves are palegreen to yellow or white. Chloroticleaves often show some recovery after the necessary nutrient is supplied. Necrosis means that the tissue is dead. Dead tissue can be gold, rust, brown, orgrey. It is dry and crumbles whensqueezed. Necrotic tissue cannotrecover.

Symptoms of deficiencies of either N, P, or K have the following in common: all involvesome yellowing and necrosis of the lower leaves, and all are accompanied byred/purple colour in stems and petioles. The simplest way to remedy these deficiencies is to fertilise with acomplete fertiliser containing nearly equal proportions of three nutrients.
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Flaming Pie

Flaming Pie

Well-Known Member
A nute that is 20-10-10 will be fine for the entire veg and flower.

What stores are you looking to shop at. I will help you pick from them.
 
Flaming Pie

Flaming Pie

Well-Known Member
Actually, you can almost use any fertiliser, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
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There ya go. =)
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
bsmooth24 said:
thanks so help for the help fellas. Hey did you mean this miraclegro?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=mirclegro+all&rh=i:aps,k:mirclegro+all

If so, how do you measure it and i thought growing but had to be very specific with the three #'s depending on what the plant needs and what cycle it's in?
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Ya, that's the stuff I used, 24-8-16, started feeding day 25 from sprout with the small scoop per gallon.
I got it from Lowe's, about $6/ 1lb. box.
Plenty to do a grow.
Actually, I was using up the rest of a box that had gotten me through a season of veggies, 2 outdoor plants last year, and a couple other things.
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
sorry. been away sick. Can i use that miracle gro in flowering or only veg stage? Two question more question: do i have to wait for any certain signs in veg before i go 12/12 lights to flower or basically whenever i feel the plant is getting too big for my pc box? Lastly, I do not want to spend 50 bucks on the fox farm chemical nutes...do I HAVE to give it nutes during flower? I mean, will giving the plant nutes just provide a bigger yield or will the plant literally die?
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
how's this?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100013303?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=miracle+gro+fertilizer&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100013303#.URqTOGeTiF8


Would that work in both veg and flower? it says 12-4-8 ...OR

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100587919?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=miracle+gro+fertilizer&storeId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100587919#specifications


That one is 12-9-6

My plant is about 1 month in from seed..I'd say about 5 inches tall, but because of my pc box size i probably only have another 8-9 inches before it hits the lights: it's in 60-70% ocean farm and rest perlite
 
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bsmooth24

Active Member
bumpppppppppp

I know you guys say to have Nitrogen relatively high, because it's needed for stretch/growth. Since I'm in a very small PC box, i do NOT need growth at all haha. Someone said this somewhere on this forum: But it was stated in my post that I need to always have the nitrogen high? When i go to flower, i can only afford SOME growth due to the flowering/colas, so minimal growth is ideal.


"Gonna have to take exception to your comment about nitrogen in flower. This is the time to reduce nitrogen and increase phosphorus. Excessive nitrogen in the bud cycle can delay flowering."
 
Bakatare666

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
bsmooth24 said:
bumpppppppppp

I know you guys say to have Nitrogen relatively high, because it's needed for stretch/growth. Since I'm in a very small PC box, i do NOT need growth at all haha. Someone said this somewhere on this forum: But it was stated in my post that I need to always have the nitrogen high? When i go to flower, i can only afford SOME growth due to the flowering/colas, so minimal growth is ideal.


"Gonna have to take exception to your comment about nitrogen in flower. This is the time to reduce nitrogen and increase phosphorus. Excessive nitrogen in the bud cycle can delay flowering."
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With your size restrictions, you are going to have to do a lot of topping, LST'ing.
If you can find some MG vegetable food, they usually have more P and K compared to the all purpose food.
Something like the Bloom Booster, or Tomato Food, same size box, same price.
Just go light on them and you should do fine.
Can you put up a pic of your plant so we can see?
If she is 5" tall already, you are probably close to time to start your LST.
 
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