Calculating Heat Load:
Heat is measured in either BTU or Kilowatts. 1KW is equivalent to 3500BTUs.
The heat load depends on a number of factor's
1.The floor area of the room
2.The heat generated by equipment
3 the heat from lighting
4.The number of room occupants
5.The ambient temp (your room's starting temp)
1.Floor Area of Room
Room Area BTU = L x W x 40 ( H = 8foot + 5btu per foot after that)
If you have a wall that is facing the sun add in for the extra heat
Sun facing wall BTU = L x H x 40
2.Equipment
This is trickier to calculate than you might think. The wattage on equipment is the maximum power consumption rating, the actual power consumed may be less. However it is safer to overestimate the wattage than underestimate it.
Equipment BTU = Total wattage for equipment x 3.5
Ballast in room BTU = ballast wattage/2 x 3.5
3.Lighting
Lighting BTU = Total wattage for all lighting x 4
Air cooled hood BTU = wattage x 4 / 2
@
400= 200-250 cfm
600= 250-300 cfm
1k = 300-350 cfm
^ is just a guide cfm per hood will be on your ducting/SP....
4.Occupants
even being that im only there for 2 or so of the 12 hrs i like it to be able to handle the extra sweat when i smoke one.
Total Occupant BTU = Number of occupants x 400
Total Cooling Required
Add all the BTUs together.
Total Heat Load = Room Area BTU + Total Occupant BTU + Equipment BTU + Lighting BTU
If your using a portable a/c:
Total Heat Load BTU x 2
^this has been from threads if you are planning on getting one i think one that's bigger then you thought about
sample
so if we have a 3 x 3 room with 1k and 200 watt's in fan's/pump's
for room we need 360 btu
for fan we need 700 btu
1k = 4000btu
ballast in the room = 1500 btu
we would need a/c that is 6560 btu i would round up to the next size 7kbtu
air exchange
aka intake/exhaust
complete air exchange every 4-5 minutes is average for a grow room/greenhouse (co2 control)....
for heat control (no a/c) i like to use 2.5 minutes {1M is best imo}
m=air exchange in min's
l x w x h = cf / m = cfm
lets use are room from above as a sample
3 x 3 x 8 = 72 /2.5 = 28.8 (30)
highend turn over = 72cfm
lowend turn over = 30cfm
now for the light 1k = 300-350cfm
exhaust system and air-cooled hood should be separated but most ppl cant/dont ( it's spendy) so add them together if your using 1 fan for both
the fan size we need is 330-422 remember you have duct loss (SP) in the sample room i would use a 440 cfm fan
SEER & EER ratings NO they are not the same.....
EER, or the Energy Efficient Ratio, is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level - usually 95°F. EER is calculated as a simple ratio of BTU's to the amount of power a unit consumes in watts. Here is an example using an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and consuming 1500 watts of power:
EER = BTU's / Watts
12,000 / 1500 = 8
EER = 8
While it is true that the higher the EER and BTU's, the more efficient the cooling system, many make the mistake of purchasing oversized air conditioners and ignoring EER ratings. The following is an example of an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and 1200 watts:
12,000 / 1200 = 10
EER =10
This would mean that this second unit can produce the same amount of cooling but more energy efficiently. Therefore, to save money on your monthly electric bill, choose a cooling system by getting an appropriately sized unit with a high EER.
I'm not taking credit for all this info.
Heh.
stop being idiots and guessing... oh that sounds right!
doesnt seem proper
blah
blah
blah.
dumbasses.
