Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

[homebrewer]

It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer. But pro mix ph recommendations?

I shoot for the low 6's.

 

[Uncle Ben]

It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer.

Consider yourself blessed. My well water is extremely hard at a TDS of 839 and upward to 27 grains.

 

[NeWcS]

My tap water is 7.5ph and ~230ppm. It was voted as the best drinking water in the west. So I would have to assume it's good for plants too.

As far as DG goes. I for one was not impressed by it in hempy buckets or DWC and am selling my stock of it. If anyone in the Denver metro area is interested in it please let me know.

 

[homebrewer]

My tap water is 7.5ph and ~230ppm. It was voted as the best drinking water in the west. So I would have to assume it's good for plants too.

It of course depends on the elemental makeup of your water but I would consider that pretty poor water for indoor plants.

 

[hornedfrog2000]

It of course depends on the elemental makeup of your water but I would consider that pretty poor water for indoor plants.

Right, just because people think the tap water tastes good doesn't mean it doesn't have a ton of crap put in the water. Last time I checked plants don't need things like fluoride, etc.

 

[indyboarder57]

Damn guys, I knew water was treated with flouride and other chems, did not know that it was that much. So really quick, Homebrewer specifically : with my low ppm water as it is, can you recommend a good ppm range for veg and flower? I know that you cant give me precise numbers, just a good ball park.

Since DG is super concentrated, I am just iffy to use the "Dyna Chart", since it looks super hot. I measured one batch of nutes today that I am giving my 31 day flowering ladies, it had a ppm of 400. This is using 2.5 mL of pro Tek, 2 mL of grow and 1.25 of mag-pro. This was in a gallon of water, and I made the pH go down to 6.2.

I remember reading one of your readings in another post/forum that you always light feed with DG, just wondering if mine sound about a good estimation. And final question, how much GROW formula do you use for later flowering? Do you ever go as high as 3 mL per gallon?
And like you said, I found so far just using GROW to be much better than the DG Blooming formula. Plants seem much healthier this time around and the bud growth/flower size does seem to be a little bit better this time around. I still top off every other feedin with 1 mL Bloom, in a 2:1 ratio with grow. Thanks HB for the advice.

 

[curious2garden]

Damn guys, I knew water was treated with flouride and other chems, did not know that it was that much. So really quick, Homebrewer specifically : with my low ppm water as it is, can you recommend a good ppm range for veg and flower? I know that you cant give me precise numbers, just a good ball park.

Since DG is super concentrated, I am just iffy to use the "Dyna Chart", since it looks super hot. I measured one batch of nutes today that I am giving my 31 day flowering ladies, it had a ppm of 400. This is using 2.5 mL of pro Tek, 2 mL of grow and 1.25 of mag-pro. This was in a gallon of water, and I made the pH go down to 6.2.

I remember reading one of your readings in another post/forum that you always light feed with DG, just wondering if mine sound about a good estimation. And final question, how much GROW formula do you use for later flowering? Do you ever go as high as 3 mL per gallon?
And like you said, I found so far just using GROW to be much better than the DG Blooming formula. Plants seem much healthier this time around and the bud growth/flower size does seem to be a little bit better this time around. I still top off every other feedin with 1 mL Bloom, in a 2:1 ratio with grow. Thanks HB for the advice.

I'm not homebrewer, obviously, but in veg I run 400 to 600 PPM give or take a little, and in flower I'll run up to about 1000 give or take a little. It depends on the plants. I run Foliage Pro until 2 weeks into flower and Bloom from then on. This run I simply forgot to add my Bloom reservoir and ran my plants on Foliage Pro until close to harvest. No real difference but I showed some P deficiency about week 5/6. That's when I realized what I'd done and added my Bloom reservoir back in.

 

[homebrewer]

So really quick, Homebrewer specifically : with my low ppm water as it is, can you recommend a good ppm range for veg and flower? I know that you cant give me precise numbers, just a good ball park.

Since DG is super concentrated, I am just iffy to use the "Dyna Chart", since it looks super hot. I measured one batch of nutes today that I am giving my 31 day flowering ladies, it had a ppm of 400. This is using 2.5 mL of pro Tek, 2 mL of grow and 1.25 of mag-pro. This was in a gallon of water, and I made the pH go down to 6.2.

I remember reading one of your readings in another post/forum that you always light feed with DG, just wondering if mine sound about a good estimation. And final question, how much GROW formula do you use for later flowering? Do you ever go as high as 3 mL per gallon?
And like you said, I found so far just using GROW to be much better than the DG Blooming formula. Plants seem much healthier this time around and the bud growth/flower size does seem to be a little bit better this time around. I still top off every other feedin with 1 mL Bloom, in a 2:1 ratio with grow. Thanks HB for the advice.

Hydro or dirt?

 

[indyboarder57]

I am in pro mix bx mixed with black cinder
.

 

[trueg115]

Hydro or dirt?

Im interested as well, what do you usually use with dirt?

 

[homebrewer]

I am in pro mix bx mixed with black cinder
.

At the end of the day, you need to do what works best for you, your plants and your environment. Personally I use grow and enough protekt (or pH up) to balance the pH of my input and feed like that from start to finish. It works for me but you may need to tweak for your best results. I think following the 'maintenance' directions on their bottles is a great place to start. Maybe the low end for veg and the high end for flower? Depends on your environment and how big you like to grow your plants. So if we're talking the .7 scale, maybe 250ppm for veg and 500 for flower? That should work but i'm still seeking what works best. I've been playing with Foliage pro lately so if you ask me this same question in 6 months, I may have a different answer.

 

[Uncle Ben]

My tap water is 7.5ph and ~230ppm. It was voted as the best drinking water in the west. So I would have to assume it's good for plants too.

You're guessing, not good although the TDS is low and the pH suggests it's being filtered through a limestone aquifer. My water tastes great but the Ca and Mg bicarbs are through the roof, and the boron content is too high for sensitive plants (.59 ppm). Get it analyzed by TX A&M and make sure you use a new, ultra clean bottle and let your water source run a bit before collecting. Ship immediately and to save on postage include a soil sample. Tell them you're using your water on tomatoes or basil and they will run a chart that outlines parameters for salinity, permeability (exchangeable sodium percentage), sodium toxicity, chloride toxicity and boron toxicity.

Best money ever spent at a very reasonable cost compared to other certified labs. http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/



UB

 

[Uncle Ben]

I've been playing with Foliage pro lately so if you ask me this same question in 6 months, I may have a different answer.

I've been using and recommending Foliage Pro for years, and caught a lot of shit from the trolls who were too stupid to save a little money, spit out the cannabis specific snake oil teat, and try it. Years ago Dyna-Gro had some precipitation problems with some of their products but they finally got it right. I talked to a tech about the issue. In fact, he was the one that brought it up. I've had several liters of Foliage Pro for quite some time and it is still a clear light green liquid with no salts dropping out.

UB

 

[NeWcS]

It of course depends on the elemental makeup of your water but I would consider that pretty poor water for indoor plants.

Here is what my water looks like;

 

[homebrewer]

Here is what my water looks like;

View attachment 2599404

Looks good if you like to brew IPAs .

 

[NeWcS]

I think that is a bear beer reference?

 

[NietzscheKeen]

No, it's a beer reference.


I'm enjoying this thread. I spent most of the day reading it. I went to the store to get some Dyna-Gro as I'm a new convert. I really never bought into the fancy bright colors and fantabulous awesome wicked cool names they give some products; in fact... that always seemed to make me suspicious of them.
Anyway, if I can get a complete and highly recommended fertilizer and not have to have 56 bottles of who knows what sitting in my cabinet.. I'm all for it.
Thanks for all the good info.

 

[West Coast Comatose]

Been using Dyna Grow for vegetative growth for a few years havent been let down yet

 

[NietzscheKeen]

Here is a question for you Dyna-gro experts...
I read something in a review for Pro-tekt that said it helps with heat resistance. Have you guys had any experience with this or know anything about it? I live in a very hot area, so anything that can help with heat tolerance is a plus.

 

[patlpp]

You're guessing, not good although the TDS is low and the pH suggests it's being filtered through a limestone aquifer. My water tastes great but the Ca and Mg bicarbs are through the roof, and the boron content is too high for sensitive plants (.59 ppm). Get it analyzed by TX A&M and make sure you use a new, ultra clean bottle and let your water source run a bit before collecting. Ship immediately and to save on postage include a soil sample. Tell them you're using your water on tomatoes or basil and they will run a chart that outlines parameters for salinity, permeability (exchangeable sodium percentage), sodium toxicity, chloride toxicity and boron toxicity.

Best money ever spent at a very reasonable cost compared to other certified labs. http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/



UB

You just saved me 75$. Local testing costs 100$. +rep to ya.