when should she go into a bigger pot?

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
so i can use my original soil add perlite and sand and my nutrients and i got a good soil mix?
If you use your original soil, you may not need any amendments like perlite or sand. Many times store soil is mixed with ease of the grower in mind, so there typically is some perlite and/or sand already in the mix. An easy test is to put some of the soil in a container with holes in the bottom (like a plant pot!), and pour water into the pot. Make sure to use plenty, and watch how quickly you see run off. If it is very slow, you might need some perlite. In any case, a little more perlite won't hurt it, just don't go crazy or your soil will be too airy and will dry out quickly.

As far as being a "good soil mix", can't really judge because I've never used the soil you mention.
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
and whats this im hearing about having to "cook" the soil if you use organic nutes what is cooking? why is it done?
Cooking takes on two different connotations in growing (maybe more), but the one they are likely speaking of is to mix your soil several weeks ahead of time and moisten thoroughly. Mix again and allow the reactions of the various chemicals to "cook" (exothermic) in the soil. This helps to prevent nutrient burn in "hot" soils which many of the mixes you will find on here are. Most of my packaged nutes are a slower release type, with stuff like feather meal and bone meal. With the compost mixes I have in there, the slower release nutes seem to kick in at the righ time and I usually only have to amend 1-2 times per any grow, most of the time only one. Of course, I don't get monster yields like other people are talking about, but I grow using 2-3 gal fabric pots, and a mixture of LED, PLL, and CMH (gave you more to look up). Only what I need and I still have plenty of stuff I harvested in July 2012. But that is beside the point.

There is nothing wrong with any of those soils. They will surely blow away anything I make, but again, I'm lazy and not looking to compete with anyone. I just want something that is simple and will give me a relatively care-free growing experience. Even so, I do try to "cook" my soil as well, but I've found that I've yet to see a burn with my soil, or transplant shock if I don't. It's just safer when you allow the initial reactions to take place, and it should help establish a good microbial activity level.
 
so i could cook the soil using a liquid nutes right? like iguana juice grow? how can you tell if the nutes i want are a slower release type?
 

raven1290

Active Member
so i could cook the soil using a liquid nutes right? like iguana juice grow? how can you tell if the nutes i want are a slower release type?
No, Iguana Juice is a quick release or soluble fertilizer. Slow release fertilzers would be stuff like bone meal, wormcastings, etc., ingridients that break down over time and "slowly" become available to the plant. All liquid or water soluble hydroponic nutrients like those from Advanced Nutrients, General Hydroponics, Dyna-Gro etc. would be considered quick release nutrients meaning thier available for immediate uptake by your plants.
 
No, Iguana Juice is a quick release or soluble fertilizer. Slow release fertilzers would be stuff like bone meal, wormcastings, etc., ingridients that break down over time and "slowly" become available to the plant. All liquid or water soluble hydroponic nutrients like those from Advanced Nutrients, General Hydroponics, Dyna-Gro etc. would be considered quick release nutrients meaning thier available for immediate uptake by your plants.
but should i also buy some bone meal or wormcasting and cook some soil for the slow release feature later on in flowering?
 

raven1290

Active Member
I noticed, glad to hear your off and running. I'm good and so is my grow. As for your question, I would read more about makeing your own soil and what each ingridient does before doing it. Wormcastings for example are for nitrogen which you want less of in flowering. Bone meal on the other hand is for phosphorus which you want more of during flowering. I don't know much about mixing these and other things up to make your own soil because I've never had an interest in trying it. I prefer useing soil or rather a soiless mix that has no added nutrients to it so I can control all aspects of feeding. There's probably lots of threads on here about makeing your own soil and different recipies. There may be some recipies that are best for veg. and others that are best for flowering, but like I said I've not done much research on the subject.
 

Bakatare666

Well-Known Member
Don't feed anything for at least a couple weeks, and why are you using distilled?
Something wrong with your tap water?
Do some reading on distilled water, and you may change up.
Some guys don't like it because it's "too" clean.
I would add some soil to your cups, and get your lights within a couple inches.
If you don't end up getting enough to put one over each cup, cut off the tops of the cups to expose the leafs to the light better and forget adding soil.
 
I noticed, glad to hear your off and running. I'm good and so is my grow. As for your question, I would read more about makeing your own soil and what each ingridient does before doing it. Wormcastings for example are for nitrogen which you want less of in flowering. Bone meal on the other hand is for phosphorus which you want more of during flowering. I don't know much about mixing these and other things up to make your own soil because I've never had an interest in trying it. I prefer useing soil or rather a soiless mix that has no added nutrients to it so I can control all aspects of feeding. There's probably lots of threads on here about makeing your own soil and different recipies. There may be some recipies that are best for veg. and others that are best for flowering, but like I said I've not done much research on the subject.
yeah im not to sure i wanna try making my own soil my first rodeo but very nice information maybe a later experiment. they grow up so fast :eyesmoke::eyesmoke::eyesmoke:
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
Quite. There are many other aspects to growing besides working up the best soil. Learn how to grow in an okay soil and then move on to making your own.
 
Don't feed anything for at least a couple weeks, and why are you using distilled?
Something wrong with your tap water?
Do some reading on distilled water, and you may change up.
Some guys don't like it because it's "too" clean.
I would add some soil to your cups, and get your lights within a couple inches.
If you don't end up getting enough to put one over each cup, cut off the tops of the cups to expose the leafs to the light better and forget adding soil.
my tap water comes out cloudy then little bubbles rise and it clears up dont wanna risk it. how about pure mountain water? and if i top off the cup with dirt it wont effect her right? haha and i know this is off subject but what ever happened to bmeat? haha that guy was a stickler
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
my tap water comes out cloudy then little bubbles rise and it clears up dont wanna risk it. how about pure mountain water? and if i top off the cup with dirt it wont effect her right? haha and i know this is off subject but what ever happened to bmeat? haha that guy was a stickler
You've got a leak somewhere in your system letting air in. I typically get water like that after a water line brake and repair where the lines get full of air. If you let the water set, does it clear up after a few minutes?
 

raven1290

Active Member
That's just air in the water. No, cutting the tops off won't effect the plants, but will make the cups less rigid.
 

brotherjericho

Well-Known Member
You've got a leak somewhere in your system letting air in. I typically get water like that after a water line brake and repair where the lines get full of air. If you let the water set, does it clear up after a few minutes?
Scratch that, there is more than just leaks to let air in. That is just what happens where I live :).
 
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