I think my plants are getting too much N...?

BygonEra

Well-Known Member
I'm using AN Jungle Juice G/M/B but not nearly full strength on my babies, soil is FFOF. Plant on right is about a month old, plant on left is 5 days younger:

IMG_0764.jpg

It's somewhat hard to tell from the pics but all 3 of the plants I've grown thus far have VERY dark green leaves and I ended up essentially ruining my first harvest with too much N... smoke was very harsh and didn't taste so great. So, I'm trying to do better this time around.

I'm supposed to give Micro throughout the plants entire life, right? It's 5-0-1 and adding that to the 2-1-6 in the Grow seems like too much N to me. My first plant got the claw very early in flower and continued to show N toxicity even after flushing and cutting back on nutes. I really don't want that to happen again. I know this stuff is specifically formulated for growing cannabis so I probably shouldn't be concerned... but should I really keep giving the high N micro throughout flowering too? I just don't know how to judge how much N they need!
 

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36OhBuds

Active Member
Can you get a picture outside of the lights? Color is impossible to tell with light washing but I think I see the ridges on your leaves lifting really badly meaning heat stress. See the wilty pissed off little plant on the left? It looks extremely stressed out. The leaves have some twisted growth and what not. Has zero to do with the color, but I'd fix that first.

From what you've said though, I would cut out the micro in flower. It doesn't sound like it needs it, considering your results. You have to adjust things to fit your growing style, but more importantly your medium and conditions. The micro doesn't seem to have any benefit for a flowering plant because the 2-1-6 is more than enough nitrogen to sustain to harvest, considering it has a bunch built up by then
 

jordan293

Well-Known Member
NO do not give it a high nitrogen fertilizer in flowering. Your suppose to switch to a flower specific fertilizer. And I'm not 100% sure but I think ffof already has ferts in it for the first month or months
 

36OhBuds

Active Member
NO do not give it a high nitrogen fertilizer in flowering. Your suppose to switch to a flower specific fertilizer. And I'm not 100% sure but I think ffof already has ferts in it for the first month or months
Oh shit, I didn't even see he's in FFOF. Yeah, don't give it ANYTHING until flower normally in FFOF. Maybe just a small like 1-1-1 or something, aquashield, and random supplements. Might even be a salt buildup if the soil is hot and the plant isn't eating it.
 

Dibbsey

Well-Known Member
high n only needed it veg state. first 2 weeks of flowering tho its still growing snd stretching so you can use high n for but not too high. during flowering cannabis needs less nitrogen. try to find 4-8-4 its pretty good all round fert that you can find mostly anywhere.
 

BygonEra

Well-Known Member
Can you get a picture outside of the lights? Color is impossible to tell with light washing but I think I see the ridges on your leaves lifting really badly meaning heat stress. See the wilty pissed off little plant on the left? It looks extremely stressed out. The leaves have some twisted growth and what not. Has zero to do with the color, but I'd fix that first.

From what you've said though, I would cut out the micro in flower. It doesn't sound like it needs it, considering your results. You have to adjust things to fit your growing style, but more importantly your medium and conditions. The micro doesn't seem to have any benefit for a flowering plant because the 2-1-6 is more than enough nitrogen to sustain to harvest, considering it has a bunch built up by then

Yeah, I'm not sure what's up the the bumpy ridges on the smaller plant.... the other plant has it some also but not as bad. It can't be heat stress because temps have been 84 at the very highest and I keep the temp gauge actually sitting in the pot of the plant on the left (tried to get a pic but you can't really see the temps). I pH my water/nutes to 7 and run-off ranges from 6.0-6.5. Plants seem happy and are growing fast... really not sure why they look like that!

I didn't realize the pics were as old as they are.. lol these plants grow fast! Here are some pics I just took:

IMG_0759.jpgIMG_0761.jpgIMG_0762.jpg
 

BygonEra

Well-Known Member
Oh shit, I didn't even see he's in FFOF. Yeah, don't give it ANYTHING until flower normally in FFOF. Maybe just a small like 1-1-1 or something, aquashield, and random supplements. Might even be a salt buildup if the soil is hot and the plant isn't eating it.
She's* hehe...

I started giving nutes to the bigger one when I noticed some yellowing on the bottom leaves. Def seems happier with the low level of nutes. The smaller plant has only gotten micro so far and a very small dose. How would I know if it's a salt build up?
 

beuffer420

Well-Known Member
She's* hehe...

I started giving nutes to the bigger one when I noticed some yellowing on the bottom leaves. Def seems happier with the low level of nutes. The smaller plant has only gotten micro so far and a very small dose. How would I know if it's a salt build up?
image.jpg

Blue dream in baccto soil advanced nutrients
the soil isn't as hot as ffof makes for an easier run at least imo
 

36OhBuds

Active Member
She's* hehe...

I started giving nutes to the bigger one when I noticed some yellowing on the bottom leaves. Def seems happier with the low level of nutes. The smaller plant has only gotten micro so far and a very small dose. How would I know if it's a salt build up?
If you have a TDS (ppm) meter run some water through, ignore the first oh, decent amount and check the middle of the runoff for PPM. If it's higher than 200 above what you're putting in and you haven't watered it with heavy nute recently (ie: do this after they've been fed-watered once, or if you feed 1/2 strength every watering, skip one feeding and check it).

You did say one thing that hints me off though: That you pH your water to 7. Personally, I don't ever pH any nutrients in soil, and I have never really shown much of an issue in veg since I started going that route. The plants actually seem to really handle it well and if the soil has some lime in it, you rarely run into any issues.

But that's just my experience. I would be concerned about if the water is drying up, whatever is being used as your pH agent, is drying in the soil, and when those concentrates dry up they can be brutal to the plants. But that'd only be if you let them actually run dry after watering them. If you keep them wet, they'll obviously never crystallize, at least not to a point of detriment.


This is what I would do, and don't do it if you don't want, but I think you'll be pleased if you do:

1. Take the size of the container...
2. Run that much tap water, with NOTHING IN IT, through the pot.
3. Check the runoff at the beginning, halfway, and end. I don't know what the numbers SHOULD be in FFOF, but if you post them, I bet I can help you deduce it. The ppm is much more important than the pH
4. Let her go for 2-3 days and just see how things develop on new growth.
5. Then decide what to treat

It'll be much more obvious. With nutrients, in a hot soil, anything, literally, could be happening.

But more importantly, are you SURE you saw yellowing? Are you sure it wasn't magnesium lockout? I really think it's something along these lines. True deficiencies and abundances are HARD to pull off, but, then again, you are in hot soil, so it's hard to say for sure. If a plant gets fed anywhere between 1/2 and full strength nutes in a rounded regimen in decent soil with good drainage, plants will be happy. That's why there's so many people that swear by so many nutrient systems. They all work pretty much the same. Higher N in veg, lower N and higher PK in flowering.

I would say a flush would be the first proper step to really diagnosing this, so that you don't have any more issues in the future. You most definitely don't want to grow another 3-4 cycles dealing with this, I bet.
 

Fazer1rlg

Active Member
NO do not give it a high nitrogen fertilizer in flowering. Your suppose to switch to a flower specific fertilizer. And I'm not 100% sure but I think ffof already has ferts in it for the first month or months
Switch from veg nutes 2 weeks into flower.
 

propertyoftheUS

Well-Known Member
View attachment 2762836

Blue dream in baccto soil advanced nutrients
the soil isn't as hot as ffof makes for an easier run at least imo
My God why did you butcher the bottom half of your plant like that?? Do you have a ventilation or humidity problem? If not why not start SCROGin earlier and flower the whole plant, or start flowering 2-3 weeks earlier instead of only flowering top half of the plant? I mean it just seems like you wasted 2-3 weeks of time vegging it if you are just cutting it all off anyway. Maybe you have found a secret horticulturalist world wide have missed over the past century? Not trying to troll but instead trying to save you time/money and definitely increase your yield and harvests over the course of a year.
 

BygonEra

Well-Known Member
If you have a TDS (ppm) meter run some water through, ignore the first oh, decent amount and check the middle of the runoff for PPM. If it's higher than 200 above what you're putting in and you haven't watered it with heavy nute recently (ie: do this after they've been fed-watered once, or if you feed 1/2 strength every watering, skip one feeding and check it).

You did say one thing that hints me off though: That you pH your water to 7. Personally, I don't ever pH any nutrients in soil, and I have never really shown much of an issue in veg since I started going that route. The plants actually seem to really handle it well and if the soil has some lime in it, you rarely run into any issues.

But that's just my experience. I would be concerned about if the water is drying up, whatever is being used as your pH agent, is drying in the soil, and when those concentrates dry up they can be brutal to the plants. But that'd only be if you let them actually run dry after watering them. If you keep them wet, they'll obviously never crystallize, at least not to a point of detriment.


This is what I would do, and don't do it if you don't want, but I think you'll be pleased if you do:

1. Take the size of the container...
2. Run that much tap water, with NOTHING IN IT, through the pot.
3. Check the runoff at the beginning, halfway, and end. I don't know what the numbers SHOULD be in FFOF, but if you post them, I bet I can help you deduce it. The ppm is much more important than the pH
4. Let her go for 2-3 days and just see how things develop on new growth.
5. Then decide what to treat

It'll be much more obvious. With nutrients, in a hot soil, anything, literally, could be happening.

But more importantly, are you SURE you saw yellowing? Are you sure it wasn't magnesium lockout? I really think it's something along these lines. True deficiencies and abundances are HARD to pull off, but, then again, you are in hot soil, so it's hard to say for sure. If a plant gets fed anywhere between 1/2 and full strength nutes in a rounded regimen in decent soil with good drainage, plants will be happy. That's why there's so many people that swear by so many nutrient systems. They all work pretty much the same. Higher N in veg, lower N and higher PK in flowering.

I would say a flush would be the first proper step to really diagnosing this, so that you don't have any more issues in the future. You most definitely don't want to grow another 3-4 cycles dealing with this, I bet.
Thanks! And yeah, the yellowing was just on the first leafset and a little on the first true node... I think it may have been low K because they quickly turned green again after giving the first nutes. I watered/fed nutes today and didn't give any of the micro, just the grow.

Also, the reason I pH my water is because it comes out of the tap around 8.0 (guess we have some shitty hard water here) and after I filter it through my Brita, it comes out around 6.5, so I top off with a little tap water just to bring down the acidity some.
 
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