R/O Advice

ProdigalSun

Well-Known Member
The next step up in the garden is an R/O system, and I was looking for some advice on using it.

Does it automatically correct Ph? I keep reading that you need to add calmag. Why? Do you have to use it everytime? Is there anything else to know, to do, or not to do?

Thanks.
 

topfuel29

Well-Known Member
RO/DI system like 6 stage or 7 stage is even better if you can find one. there around $120.00
The RO takes you down to 0 PPM
The DI (De-ionization) strips the ions from the water molecules. The ions are what makes your pH go all crazy in your nutrient solution.
The less ions you have the more stable your pH will be in your nutrient solution.
 

sold777

Well-Known Member
There's like nothing but pure water in r.o. I used it first grow and didnt think about replacing anything, my plant went balls up as I needed a supplement in there to give the plant what it needed. I switched back to tap water as i didnt wanna complicate my first grow. Aslong as you use call mag you will be fine. Unless theres other alternatives people can suggest.
 

sold777

Well-Known Member
Are you hydro or soil? I grow in soil and use 1ml per L. I use plant magic magne-cal. Id just go off bottle directions and see how you get on. Hope it goes well for you.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Hate to bust what you think is accurate RO 411, but, a vg RO will reduce pms by ~ 90% IF pressure is strong (~ 60 psi). Most water line pressure is 50ish

It's the DI that removes the remainder of ppms, as well as fluoride. That's where you get 0 ppms, though 90% is sufficient when tap water ppm is < 300ppm

The main problem is how long it takes to make water once the tank is drained, ~ 1-2 hours per gallon, unless you add a booster pump, which I highly recommend both for improving quality and quantity

And price, $120? Yeah right. NOT. I paid $1600 7 years ago, and the replacement is over $2000


RO/DI system like 6 stage or 7 stage is even better if you can find one. there around $120.00
The RO takes you down to 0 PPM
The DI (De-ionization) strips the ions from the water molecules. The ions are what makes your pH go all crazy in your nutrient solution.
The less ions you have the more stable your pH will be in your nutrient solution.
 

WhiteRooster

Active Member
A RO filter does not correct the pH of your water you will have to do that and I suggest that you get an air pump with air stone to add oxygen back into the water because the filter removes all of the dissolved oxygen in your water... and cal mag is not necessary if you are using soil with lime in it and a good base nutrient like Sensi Bloom with calcium in it... but if you are using coco coir AN makes a new Sensi Grow and Bloom for coco with extra calcium
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
and you believe the adv hype? hahahahahahahahahaha

Just where do you recharge your DI cartridges?


Would you buy an RO from Costco? I wouldn't


http://www.costco.com/Premier-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filtration-System.product.10040488.html

How about Lowes? They carry 3 models. Why, if all you need is a cheap one? Note this $320 one has 75% rejection as NEW. High ppm tap will begin to clog the RO in 6 months

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=136859-86921-KR15&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3553406&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Ooo-ooo. Here's a 100gpd RO/DI from Dr Foster & Smith $180 (note maximum rejection is 140ppm, which is nothing for tap. I have had > 280) http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4395+4418+24110&pcatid=24110

I would be HIGHLY suspect of the housing materials. China not well known for using best non-toxic materials

My 2 cents. Do as you will
 

ProdigalSun

Well-Known Member
and you believe the adv hype? hahahahahahahahahaha

Just where do you recharge your DI cartridges?


Would you buy an RO from Costco? I wouldn't


http://www.costco.com/Premier-Reverse-Osmosis-Water-Filtration-System.product.10040488.html

How about Lowes? They carry 3 models. Why, if all you need is a cheap one? Note this $320 one has 75% rejection as NEW. High ppm tap will begin to clog the RO in 6 months

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=136859-86921-KR15&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3553406&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Ooo-ooo. Here's a 100gpd RO/DI from Dr Foster & Smith $180 (note maximum rejection is 140ppm, which is nothing for tap. I have had > 280) http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4395+4418+24110&pcatid=24110

I would be HIGHLY suspect of the housing materials. China not well known for using best non-toxic materials

My 2 cents. Do as you will
Rep givem good post.

What would you recommend?
 

rookiekid9901

Active Member
You can get a hydrologic RO100 for 180 and it works great easy to use. And you need cal mag because just like a human the plants need there vitamins to . And you will need more then just cal mag.
 

ProdigalSun

Well-Known Member
Then why is R/O such a big deal if it's an expensive pain in the ass? Why didnt the marijuana gardeners all ay fuck R/O?
 

jcmjrt

Well-Known Member
I wanted to increase the quality of my grow water as well. I went with a sediment filter and two activated charcoal filters. Does this give as clean a water as R/O? Not if the R/O is working well but it does a wonderful job on removing chlorine and chloramine from the water. I also don't have to deal with what to do with the rejected water, membrane maintenance, waiting for water, etc. I'm not saying my way is better but it's low hassle, low cost and works well for me. I got my setup from purewaterproducts.

As far as needing cal mag - you can do that or you can build your soil to provide quantitities of calcium - CaCO3
 

Mr John

Active Member
I have the Hydro-Logic stealth 200 system and love it. My water was actually pretty good TDS wise to start with, about 120 or so. Using the RO it dropped down to 10 ish. The more pressure you have available the better it works. My tap pressure was about 45+5 psi. Pretty low.

The idea of removing the chlorine/chloride from the water. Using CaMg+ to use to put that back in the water that my plants will need. My ph if I recall did not change at all. That you will need to adjust with your PH up/down. I did not see the need for the extra cost of a DI system btw, overkill if you ask IMO.

Been using the RO system also for my coffee water and it helps the taste somewhat but also keeps the lime buildup away. Make sure you get a decent TDS meter so you know where you stand as far as the dissolved solids. You need to have a starting point before adding the nutes to the RO water.
 

Mr John

Active Member
I wanted to increase the quality of my grow water as well. I went with a sediment filter and two activated charcoal filters. Does this give as clean a water as R/O? Not if the R/O is working well but it does a wonderful job on removing chlorine and chloramine from the water. I also don't have to deal with what to do with the rejected water, membrane maintenance, waiting for water, etc. I'm not saying my way is better but it's low hassle, low cost and works well for me. I got my setup from purewaterproducts.

As far as needing cal mag - you can do that or you can build your soil to provide quantitities of calcium - CaCO3
Charcoal will not get you anywhere near a RO system. The charcoal setup removes chlorine and not chloride/chloramine. From what I have read only a RO system can filter them out. The RO system practically strips all the dissolved solids out leaving you 95+ or so pure water.

You wont need calmag with a charcoal setup as they will not get filtered out.
 

ProdigalSun

Well-Known Member
I haven't checked in a while, but the tap a couple months ago was in the 400 range.

I get a lot of scale buildup, the Ph is 8.3.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
If you are using hydro (and you tap is > 150) then a quality RO is a must. How much daily production you need depends on how many plants/how big your rez volume. Long before I started growing with hydro I had an RO for my cooking and drinking water
I haven't checked in a while, but the tap a couple months ago was in the 400 range.

I get a lot of scale buildup, the Ph is 8.3.
 
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