Joint Monster
Well-Known Member
What is wrong? 600wHPS-Sunshine4-GHLucas-Calmag5ml(onedose)-Molassess-6.6PH-D42Flow3r
Help What's Wrong?
- Thread starter Joint Monster
- Start date
Joint Monster
Well-Known Member
I was thinking phosphorus the last time I came across this. I add Cal-Mag and they seem to be okay. Sometimes I think the CalMag might be making it worse, but I add it every other watering 1ml to a gallon.
What are you talking about, I'm so confused??? It said 60day flowering time, it's only been 43. How is it 3 weeks over?
You say not phosphorus, and it's calcium, the opposite of what I thought. I can add Cal-Mag but ilke I said, I'm not sure if it helps! And where do I get phosphorus? I was thinking of flushing her with some plain ph'd water. .....It happened to a nute-sensitive strain I had before, after flushing it seemed to stop getting worse (doesn't get better right?)
Joint Monster
Well-Known Member
Anyone? ...
Joint Monster
Well-Known Member
You clearly know what you're talking about mate. That's was also my thinking, that phosphorus was lacking. Can you suggest a method to improve this? Should I up the Cal-Mag to 5ml/gal? All I could come up with was to add bat guano, any other ways?
MYOB
Well-Known Member
What is your water source? If you are using RO water or "soft" tap water, you will need to supplement Ca & Mg. I have experienced the same issue due to using soft tap water and not using cal-mag.
I use it every watering @ 2.5mL/gal. This gets my tap water to around 150ppm which is a more common range and one that provides a source of cal and magnesium. The nutrients I use also contain Ca & Mg but most nutrients will figure in the mineral content of most tap water and not add enough.
The rust spots and necrotic patches are classic Ca def. You admit you haven't been using adequate amounts of cal-mag. Do you know your waters ppm/EC?
Calcium deficiencies, along with Mg deficiencies are very common especially in mid-late flowering.
It is definitely not "nute burn" from molasses. That diagnosis is just wrong on a couple levels.
I use it every watering @ 2.5mL/gal. This gets my tap water to around 150ppm which is a more common range and one that provides a source of cal and magnesium. The nutrients I use also contain Ca & Mg but most nutrients will figure in the mineral content of most tap water and not add enough.
The rust spots and necrotic patches are classic Ca def. You admit you haven't been using adequate amounts of cal-mag. Do you know your waters ppm/EC?
Calcium deficiencies, along with Mg deficiencies are very common especially in mid-late flowering.
It is definitely not "nute burn" from molasses. That diagnosis is just wrong on a couple levels.
MYOB
Well-Known Member
and it is not a P deficiency. The pictures look much more like the Ca deficiency reference photos. See the yellow rings around the necrotic patches? The spots in the P deficiency are more brown and uniform. They form larger blotches and stretch to the leaf margins. The Ca def is more spotting like in the pictures. The leaves look more "crispy" and tough. P deficiency leaves look limp and soft.
The more obvious answer is usually the right one. In this case, I think everything points to Ca (& Mg) The red stems and yellowing are common Mg deficiency symptoms.
No doubt the panicked flushing has most likely done more harm than good.
Always, research and try to figure out what is going on by understanding basic plant biology & nutrition. Know what you are putting into the plants and what they need. It sure takes a lot of guess work out of it. Not to mention, asking for advice on a forum like this is akin to throwing a dart at a "plant problems" poster and treating whatever you hit.
The more obvious answer is usually the right one. In this case, I think everything points to Ca (& Mg) The red stems and yellowing are common Mg deficiency symptoms.
No doubt the panicked flushing has most likely done more harm than good.
Always, research and try to figure out what is going on by understanding basic plant biology & nutrition. Know what you are putting into the plants and what they need. It sure takes a lot of guess work out of it. Not to mention, asking for advice on a forum like this is akin to throwing a dart at a "plant problems" poster and treating whatever you hit.
Sire Killem All
Well-Known Member
Up ur calmag. jacked this from a different thread out in the comp world
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
Organic
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Any chemical or organic fertilizers that have Phosphorus in them will fix a Phosphorus deficiency. If you have a phosphorus deficiency you should use any N-P-K ratio that is over 5.Again Peters all purpose 20-20-20 is a good mix. Miracle grow Tomato plant food, Miracle grow All purpose plant food (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other forms of phosphorus supplements are: Bone meal, which is gradual absorption, I suggest making it into a tea for faster use, where bone/blood meal is slow acting, but when made into a tea it works quicker! Fruit eating bat guano, which is fast absorption, Worm castings, which is gradual absorption, Fish meal, which is medium absorption, Soft Rock Phosphate, which is medium absorption, Jamaican or Indonesian Guano, which is fast absorption. Crabshell, which is slow absorption. Tiger Bloom , which is fast absorption.
Here is a list of things to help fix a Phosphrus Deficiency.
Chemical
Advanced nutrients Bloom (0-5-4)
Vita Bloom (0-7-5)
BC Bloom (1.1-4.4-7)
GH Flora Bloom (0-5-4)
GH Maxi Bloom (5-15-14)
GH Floranova Bloom (4-8-7)
Dyna-Gro Bloom (3-12-6)
Fox Farm Tiger Bloom (2-8-4)
Awsome Blossums
Organic
Dr. Hornby's Iguana Juice Bloom (4-3-6)
Advanced Nutrients Mother Earth Bloom (.5-1.5-2)
Fox Farm Big Bloom (.01-.3-.7)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
Pure Blend Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Pure Blend Pro Bloom (2.5-2-5)
Buddswell (0-7-0)
Sea Island Jamaican Bat Guano (1-10-0)
Indonesian Bat Guano (0-13-0)
Rainbow Mix Bloom (1-9-2)
Earth Juice Bloom (0-3-1)
BIO BLOOM (2-6-3.5)
AGE OLD BLOOM (5-10-5)
ALASKA MORBLOOM (0-10-10)
METANATURALS ORGANIC BLOOM (1-5-5)
Any of these will cure your phosphorus deficiency. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will appear normal.
Now if you added to much chemical ferts and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.
Note: Blood Meal, Dried Blood, Guanos, Kelp Meal, Cotton Seed Meal, Peat Moss,
Sulfur and fish meal are all acidic and can bring your ph down, so if you add these please monitor your ph when using those.
Note: Bone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Wood Ashes pretty much all ashes, Shellfish Compost and Crab Meal are all alkaline and can make your ph go up, so if you add any of these please monitor your ph.
Joint Monster
Well-Known Member
I agree it's not the molasses. Usually don't check ppm, but have a blue-lab pen. Always check PH. tap-Hard-water-throughsoftener-. Last time I checked the water was around350ppm and after nutes maybe 100to150 additional ppm.
Didn't really know if ppm was a big factor? In hydro I know it is, but soil? What should ranges be for each stage of growth?
There's never enough you can learn! Maybe adding a bit more C/M. and see how they respond. I did not actually flush, just something I was considering.
topfuel29
Well-Known Member
45 days into flower. you only have 2-3 weeks left? I'm guessing.
You might be further off not fixing anything. I'm sure your plant will finish. Chalk it up as experience for the next grow.
Or you could try and give her one regular dose of some phosphorus. what ever your bloom nutrients are.
IMO- it's to late in the game to add bat guano. I wouldn't add any more cal/mag to this plant either.
cal/mag I'd add that once a month at 5ml. gallon just as a preventative measure all through the plants life until finish.
Next grow same strain? at least you'll know she likes phosphorus. or needs more than what you've been giving her.
Your next grow with this strain should go alot better.
Your buds look nice. It can be a rough road sometimes, your doing a good job.
You might be further off not fixing anything. I'm sure your plant will finish. Chalk it up as experience for the next grow.
Or you could try and give her one regular dose of some phosphorus. what ever your bloom nutrients are.
IMO- it's to late in the game to add bat guano. I wouldn't add any more cal/mag to this plant either.
cal/mag I'd add that once a month at 5ml. gallon just as a preventative measure all through the plants life until finish.
Next grow same strain? at least you'll know she likes phosphorus. or needs more than what you've been giving her.
Your next grow with this strain should go alot better.
Your buds look nice. It can be a rough road sometimes, your doing a good job.
MYOB
Well-Known Member
Knowing the "quality" of your water source is more important than following a ppm guide for feeding in general.
The reason knowing ppm/EC of your water source is so that you can determine if you will need to supplement Ca and Mg. Both of these elements are present in most city tap water and in sufficient quantities to meet a plants nutritional needs. If you have soft tap water or use RO water, you need to add these in before adding anything else. You want to have a "base water" of at least 150ppm (I use a Hanna tester BTW)
With 350ppm tap water, the Ca/Mg shouldn't be necessary unless your base nutrients are lacking. Cannabis uses a lot of calcium in flowering. This problem is very common. I have had it happen and have seen it again and again. The good news is that its not terribly harmful. Its not pretty, but you can usually make it through without any actual noticeable affect on yield or quality.
If your water really is 350ppm (which meter btw?) and you're base nutrients contain Ca and Mg, I would start to consider factors that could cause a Ca lockout. Thats how sure I am that it is a Ca deficiency.
You could try top dressing with powdered dolomite lime as a cheap and continuous form of Ca. It will also buffer acidic nutrient solutions.
The reason knowing ppm/EC of your water source is so that you can determine if you will need to supplement Ca and Mg. Both of these elements are present in most city tap water and in sufficient quantities to meet a plants nutritional needs. If you have soft tap water or use RO water, you need to add these in before adding anything else. You want to have a "base water" of at least 150ppm (I use a Hanna tester BTW)
With 350ppm tap water, the Ca/Mg shouldn't be necessary unless your base nutrients are lacking. Cannabis uses a lot of calcium in flowering. This problem is very common. I have had it happen and have seen it again and again. The good news is that its not terribly harmful. Its not pretty, but you can usually make it through without any actual noticeable affect on yield or quality.
If your water really is 350ppm (which meter btw?) and you're base nutrients contain Ca and Mg, I would start to consider factors that could cause a Ca lockout. Thats how sure I am that it is a Ca deficiency.
You could try top dressing with powdered dolomite lime as a cheap and continuous form of Ca. It will also buffer acidic nutrient solutions.