its a 240 volt system, two hots , one neutral. you got the one wit bare end?
I understand that. One with bare end? You mean left open, not used?
^ The 5k was what I was given initially and I wasn't exactly sure what I needed. I have 1k pots as replacements, so I am soldering tomorrow morning, 1st thing.
I feel like an idiot, but that is how we all learn, double check and asking saved me. Rep
Thank you for the big save, Stevie
Like this??
This shit is tough for me to understand man...With my sentinel hph-8s my elecs have always just used Ground and Black and white. Why with this titan do I need 4 wires? Why is 4 an option?
The neutral is required if say a timer or contactor coils need 120v.
Not sure I fully understand. My set up is ..50amp - to the Titan 8 - to my Sentinel Hid, which is my timer, where I plug my trigger plugs from my titan to ( this is an 8 light flower). Like I have said, only have used sentinel hph8s, and have only ever used 3 wires total (6/3). This titan shows four slots including ground. Do I disregard one of the slots? Sorry im thick and I need to be completely clear.
First off we need to verify a few things. With nothing wired to the light controller, plug the trigger cord into a 120 volts wall receptacle and listen for a "click" indicating that the contactor (relay coil)) has energized. Unplug the trigger cord from the wall receptacle. Using an ohmmeter check to see if there is continuity from the middle terminal (neutral in the diagram) to the ground slot in the receptacles on the lighting controller. If there is no continuity, you will not be using the neutral terminal. I hate to say this, but I would almost be tempted to break the "Warranty is void if broken" sticker to look inside the light controller. Titan didn't mention anything about having any kind of overcurrent protection inside the lighting controller to the receptacles for the ballast cords.
Exactly! I have a 240 welder plug in my shop. My shop 110 powers my "flower" room. I have a 240 welder plug and I want to be able to plug a small panel into it that has 110 outlets. Essential creating another avenue for 110 power but being able to unplug it and still use my welder. I think I've seen it done before.
What's the difficulty? You have a three wire receptacle?
Can be done with a subpanel to break down the 50 amp feed.
whats your amperage of the overcurrent device (breaker) that the welder out let is currently wired up to?
Yes the diagram is correct. As you are perhaps well aware of, the resistance of the 1k pot is way too much. We could replace the pot with one of another value, or we could simulate a lower-value pot by placing a resistor in parallel with it, diminishing its maximum obtainable resistance. Placing a 100 ohms 3 watt resistor connected from terminal #1 to terminal #3, will decrease the span of the pot to 91 ohms, but that span will become non-linear.^ The 5k was what I was given initially and I wasn't exactly sure what I needed. I have 1k pots as replacements, so I am soldering tomorrow morning, 1st thing.
I feel like an idiot, but that is how we all learn, double check and asking saved me. Rep
Thank you for the big save, Stevie
Like this
View attachment 2900012
Ok. By code your subpanel needs an EGC that's fed back to the main panel. This is to prevent the panel housing from becoming "hot" in the event of an open neutral as well as providing a pathway for surge dissipation on your resulting 120v circuits.
