Whats up guys, just did my first qwiso run. I do not have a vac chamber yet but was under the impression you can "heat purge" by letting your product sit on a griddle or heat matt. This is correct? Currently I have my qwiso on a heat mat and temps are only 90 degrees at maximum. Am i heat purging correcttly? Should i be heat purging at a higher temperature? Possibly 120 degrees? any tips would be greatly appreciated
Q on heat purge time. firsrt qwiso ever made
- Thread starter jpill
- Start date
The first 1-2 pics are un purged. The last 4-5 pics are finished product sitting out for 24hrs.
I noticed the chlorophyll on my second pass through, (I know QwisoKing does not do 2nd runs)
but since its my first try at qwiso i figured i would make the mistakes early lol. My question is, is it possible to get the chlorophyll out? Should i bring the solvent to a bubble at 180 degrees to cook off water/chlorophyll ? (i don't even know if that is scientifically possible! Just jibber jabbing) lol. The temps used to get the finished products was around 100-120 degrees. I messed up on picture 3, the dish got way to hot, i could smell the degredation of the terpenes and thc. :/ ... I have noticed that none of my finished product has "shattered" its more of a goo that is touchable and will not stick to your finger. A little lost here, looking for advice ! Thanks guys.If I am working with a solvent that has chlorophyll in it, is it possible to evap it out ?
1itsme
Well-Known Member
yes you can. theres a way to get it out with (hexane/super saturated saline?). The site skunkpharm has a good article on it. there might be one here as well somewhere but idk for sure.
or you can just put your jar of wash in the sun/under a grow light for a couple hours, it will break down the chlorophyll.
or you can just put your jar of wash in the sun/under a grow light for a couple hours, it will break down the chlorophyll.
BluJayz
Well-Known Member
No, but you can salt it out. Again reference from skunk pharm.
Putting it in the sun only hides the green, its still in there and tastes the same.
midnitetoak
Active Member
Whenever I made qwiso it never came out hard like BHO shatter... Always stayed a hard taffy at room temp. I think you are doing it right but I find that no heat at all is best. Your oil will not look as pretty as the clear amber everyone likes to see but it will be very good quality if just left to evaporate with a fan. When I make qwiso I usually get a gold flaky shatter that when heated with hot water melts to a hard sticky taffy amber goo...I no longer heat it at all just leave as is & dab it. Its best to air purge for a minimum if 24 hrs or longer...the ISO will be gone in 12 but it vapes smoother when left out at room temp for another 12 hrs or even longer.
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
I think qwiso is not something a beginner should try and expect excellent results
It can by sludge or glass..but those who are able to tame iso find it produces some of the hardest shatter there is..at room temp..will shatter if trying to chip a piece and if heated it turns to wax then crumble..goo is impurities within..it may come from an incredibly waxy plant but more likely a slightly to long of wash on a waxy plant..
Sir dabs came around, he too said it was harder than (winterized) shatter...
Iso is the perfect single wash solvent
It can by sludge or glass..but those who are able to tame iso find it produces some of the hardest shatter there is..at room temp..will shatter if trying to chip a piece and if heated it turns to wax then crumble..goo is impurities within..it may come from an incredibly waxy plant but more likely a slightly to long of wash on a waxy plant..
Sir dabs came around, he too said it was harder than (winterized) shatter...
Iso is the perfect single wash solvent
420CannabisMMJPothead
Active Member
Why do some people say iso needs a vac purge? If my product is dry that means the iso is gone right?
Sirdabsalot462
Well-Known Member
Not necessarily^ Pot head.
If it's dry, that means the liquids itself is gone, the oil still needs to be purged of residual iso.
And fuck yeaaaaahh QK!!
I got a bit of qwiso evap'n as we speak...
Like he said...I've always been a pro BHO freak.
Thought my winterized shatter was the best...
As in relation to potency, BHO has a slight edge.
But...as far as smooth, aromatic vaporization/combustion...Qwiso for the win!!
And yes indeed: Qwiso produced shatter that made my rock hard BHO shatter look like silly putty...
Real good shit!!!!!
I've found that obtaining rock hard shatter with iso has to do with slowly reaching the melting point of the concrete/oleoresin and maintaining that temp briefly and then kill the heat.
When scraping, warm back up slightly for easier collection.
Just remember, heat kills terps.
Use as little heat as possible...
As QK pointed out.... I have found a new love in iso extractions.
If it's dry, that means the liquids itself is gone, the oil still needs to be purged of residual iso.
And fuck yeaaaaahh QK!!
I got a bit of qwiso evap'n as we speak...
Like he said...I've always been a pro BHO freak.
Thought my winterized shatter was the best...
As in relation to potency, BHO has a slight edge.
But...as far as smooth, aromatic vaporization/combustion...Qwiso for the win!!
And yes indeed: Qwiso produced shatter that made my rock hard BHO shatter look like silly putty...
Real good shit!!!!!
I've found that obtaining rock hard shatter with iso has to do with slowly reaching the melting point of the concrete/oleoresin and maintaining that temp briefly and then kill the heat.
When scraping, warm back up slightly for easier collection.
Just remember, heat kills terps.
Use as little heat as possible...
As QK pointed out.... I have found a new love in iso extractions.
lio lacidem
Well-Known Member
The way i do my evaps/purges is 1st i use a double boiler on an electric skillet set to 150f using electricgun thermometer making sure liquid doesnt come above 135f. Once liquid is evapped i scrape and place on parchment. Next i freeze for 8hrs. After i place parchment in pyrex pan and sit oN
lio lacidem
Well-Known Member
95F hot plate for 24hrs. Put in oven set to warm. Do not preheat put in for 5 minutes oil should reach 140f.Remove parchment and freeze for 8 more hours. Flip frozen oil over and return to parchment. Place back in hotplate for 16hrs. Left with clear yellow semi-pliable shatter
Not necessarily^ Pot head.
If it's dry, that means the liquids itself is gone, the oil still needs to be purged of residual iso.
And fuck yeaaaaahh QK!!
I got a bit of qwiso evap'n as we speak...
Like he said...I've always been a pro BHO freak.
Thought my winterized shatter was the best...
As in relation to potency, BHO has a slight edge.
But...as far as smooth, aromatic vaporization/combustion...Qwiso for the win!!
And yes indeed: Qwiso produced shatter that made my rock hard BHO shatter look like silly putty...
Real good shit!!!!!
I've found that obtaining rock hard shatter with iso has to do with slowly reaching the melting point of the concrete/oleoresin and maintaining that temp briefly and then kill the heat.
When scraping, warm back up slightly for easier collection.
Just remember, heat kills terps.
Use as little heat as possible...
As QK pointed out.... I have found a new love in iso extractions.
So iso still has residuals within after the initial evaporation. At that point would you vac purge it ? If you don't have the pump and vac chamber how could you purge out residuals from within?
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
You do not need to "purge"
It evaps wonderfully...I use it to purge other substances such as hexane which has a 30ppm sensory threshold..can be very tricky to get it below..iso is around 20ppm and once its dry its done even with its higher boiling point and lower threshold..no taste..its important to leave it in thin film..paper thin..many people for some reason collect and stir/whip for whatever reason..just leave it be to evap..within 24hours my stuffs done using a natural evap..sometimes I "freeze dry" .. to get the best product don't use any heat..
It evaps wonderfully...I use it to purge other substances such as hexane which has a 30ppm sensory threshold..can be very tricky to get it below..iso is around 20ppm and once its dry its done even with its higher boiling point and lower threshold..no taste..its important to leave it in thin film..paper thin..many people for some reason collect and stir/whip for whatever reason..just leave it be to evap..within 24hours my stuffs done using a natural evap..sometimes I "freeze dry" .. to get the best product don't use any heat..
lio lacidem
Well-Known Member
First i have to say qwisoking ive read alot of your posts and they are usually spot on with my thinking but here ill have to disagree. The viscosity of oil will not let the iso fully purge. I have ran same product and low heat purged 1 and no heat evap'd one. Had both samples tested unheated had residual of 40ppm heated had 5ppm this was 3 years ago and have been using low heat ever since
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
Heat is not necessary...or else freeze dried products would be impossible..
Thin film..paper thin is important..don't collect the mass.......as I said above.....as that can trap by developing a thin film on the outside...paper thin film of oil is key, that same film will be the product you scrape, it won't be a miniature version with a microscopic center that's unpurged because of a itty bitty film..vac helps a lot so does a simple fan..but yea once you have the powder consistency normally found in my avatar its all good...its probly because your product was "viscous"...not thin film that turns to crystals or powder..the whole reason iso is so popular in the medical industry is becauseit leaves no traces and evaporates wonderfully...you should do a few more tests with pics then you can preach
Thin film..paper thin is important..don't collect the mass.......as I said above.....as that can trap by developing a thin film on the outside...paper thin film of oil is key, that same film will be the product you scrape, it won't be a miniature version with a microscopic center that's unpurged because of a itty bitty film..vac helps a lot so does a simple fan..but yea once you have the powder consistency normally found in my avatar its all good...its probly because your product was "viscous"...not thin film that turns to crystals or powder..the whole reason iso is so popular in the medical industry is becauseit leaves no traces and evaporates wonderfully...you should do a few more tests with pics then you can preach
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
I don't feel like being all technical today...so here's a snippet
.....The vapor pressure becomes sufficient to overcome atmospheric pressure and lift the liquid to form vapor bubbles inside the bulk of the substance. Bubble formation deeper in the liquid requires a higher pressure, and therefore higher temperature, because the fluid pressure increases above the atmospheric pressure as the depth increases..."
Paper thin is important....it will yield white powder in perfection
Either way paper thin is purged...below taste threshold at least..all that really matters.... ..limit is like 400ppm for long term
.....The vapor pressure becomes sufficient to overcome atmospheric pressure and lift the liquid to form vapor bubbles inside the bulk of the substance. Bubble formation deeper in the liquid requires a higher pressure, and therefore higher temperature, because the fluid pressure increases above the atmospheric pressure as the depth increases..."
Paper thin is important....it will yield white powder in perfection
Either way paper thin is purged...below taste threshold at least..all that really matters.... ..limit is like 400ppm for long term
lio lacidem
Well-Known Member
I didnt feel as though i was preaching simply stating the opinion i formed over years of trial and error. sorry if you took my post the wrong way.
lio lacidem
Well-Known Member
I thought i did post fact 3yrs ago i made two samples of hard sap iso oil one with heat one without had both tested residual was higher in unheated. This being said i am gonna try your way to see difference in my tech if any