Discoballs
Member
There are tons of ways to dry and cure buds. Im not saying my way is the best, but its not the worst way either. Curing processes will also vary between climate regions. My current climate region is cool and dry (40% humidity).
When the buds are ready to harvest cut the entire plant down and cut most of the fan leafs off at their base. Do not cut the green part of the leaf because it will release chlorophyll giving the bud a grassy smell. If the base of the leaf cannot be found leave it and dry it as is. Hang plant to dry for 3-7 days.
Drying the bud should only take a few days. The object of drying buds is to dry them, but not to dry them too much. I like to use the snapping stem method. When the buds on the stem seem dry and slightly brittle. Take the stem and attempt to break it. It should bend and slightly snap. If the stem snaps and breaks into two pieces the bud is to dry to cure.
At this point the bud should be dried enough to cut off the stem. Leafs that where left on the buds should be removed and disposed of accordingly. Place buds in a mason jar filling most of the jar with bud leaving 1/8 of the jar for an air pocket . Cap with a cure cap.
Why is using a curing cap better then placing a hygrometer on the buds? Using a cure cap helps create a space between the bud and the hygrometer allowing for a more accurate all around humidity of the contents of the jar. Placing a hygrometer on the buds will only provide a magnified inaccurate reading of the contents of the jar.
As soon as the bud is sealed in the jar the hygrometer will read around 52% for a couple hours until the buds sweats. After the humidity in the jar gets up to 60% start burping the jar. The point of burping is to exchange gasses and release moister. The goal is to take the humidity of the contents of the jar down to 52% as slow as possible (1-2 months). Once the all around humidity of the jar reaches 52% the curing process ends. The curing process will not start back over no matter how much moister you add to the jar.
When the buds are ready to harvest cut the entire plant down and cut most of the fan leafs off at their base. Do not cut the green part of the leaf because it will release chlorophyll giving the bud a grassy smell. If the base of the leaf cannot be found leave it and dry it as is. Hang plant to dry for 3-7 days.
Drying the bud should only take a few days. The object of drying buds is to dry them, but not to dry them too much. I like to use the snapping stem method. When the buds on the stem seem dry and slightly brittle. Take the stem and attempt to break it. It should bend and slightly snap. If the stem snaps and breaks into two pieces the bud is to dry to cure.
At this point the bud should be dried enough to cut off the stem. Leafs that where left on the buds should be removed and disposed of accordingly. Place buds in a mason jar filling most of the jar with bud leaving 1/8 of the jar for an air pocket . Cap with a cure cap.
Why is using a curing cap better then placing a hygrometer on the buds? Using a cure cap helps create a space between the bud and the hygrometer allowing for a more accurate all around humidity of the contents of the jar. Placing a hygrometer on the buds will only provide a magnified inaccurate reading of the contents of the jar.
As soon as the bud is sealed in the jar the hygrometer will read around 52% for a couple hours until the buds sweats. After the humidity in the jar gets up to 60% start burping the jar. The point of burping is to exchange gasses and release moister. The goal is to take the humidity of the contents of the jar down to 52% as slow as possible (1-2 months). Once the all around humidity of the jar reaches 52% the curing process ends. The curing process will not start back over no matter how much moister you add to the jar.
