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  • As for liquid nutrients, it is much more feasable to order them online. I bought a quart (enough to make like 50 gallon) of Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Grow formula about a month or two ago off Ebay and with shipping it was only $20. Soil on the other hand is another story. It isn't really practical to buy soil online since you'll pay like $15-20 for the soil, then pay another $20 for shipping.
    Thanks lowlow13, It's been trial and error to get them just right. But I think I have it down pat. If you want to shorten your plants all you need to do is tie them back as they get to tall.
    does organic soil mean that its is neutral? ive heard that some of the autos i ordered have nute sensitivity so i dont want to put them in MG if it will fuck em up? sorry im such a noob on this shit... also what is the best method of knowing when and how much to water?
    yeah im trying to get the fow farm multi nutrient and ocean forest but nowhere round here sells it, and the hydroponic stores round here are kinda hot
    I never used it. I used the regular potting mix before without any problems, but be careful with MG products. Most of their soils contain nutrient pellets that are slowly released when you water. I prefer my soil to be somewhat neutral. I like to add nutrients if and when they need it. If you live in a small town, like me, and don't really have access to specialized stuff and absolutely have to use MG, I'd go with the moisture control. Just don't use any additional fertilizer for AT LEAST a month and don't overwater. Seedlings don't like like a lot of fertilizer. The biggest rookie mistake is probably overfeeding. If you have a specialty horticulture store or nursery around you can try looking for something called Pro-mix or Sunshine mix. They are peat based. A lot of guys on here swear by this stuff called Fox Farms Ocean Forest. I never used it, little too expensive, but everyone seems to love it.
    You need to check out some HO T5 fluorescent fixtures...http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=SPG108&AC=1..... That's all I use. It holds 8 tubes. puts out 48,000 lumen's and is 432 watts. Works great for auto's and I'm not sure yet how well it works with photo period plants. I'll let you know in about 35 to 40 days though. That would be my DNA Lemon Skunk. Plus I have a Lowryder #1 growing with her.
    Anyway, I got off the subject. I do that sometimes. I understand about keeping a low budget. So all you can do is all you can do. You'll be able to grow just fine. Besides, after this grow, you will want to improve anyway. Believe I know. Your grow room will be like having an addiction to cocaine. Just gotta get some more stuff honey, be right back. Ha Ha Later man
    thanks for all the help guys im hella excited to get the ball rollin on this thing but i get a lot more prep work, anybody know about the miracle grow moisture control? sounds like a cool concept
    If it were me I'd leave them in. As long as heat wasn't an issue and I had room, I would just add some lower temp. Oh, I tried to private message you, but you have it turned off. Dunno if that is the new default.
    210w of CFL? I would think that is enough for a single auto, but more light is always better. Just remember to keep the light as close as possible without burning, like 2-4", after the first week or two. Seedlings under 2-3 need surprisingly little light.
    As for the light temps, the general CFL growing paradigm seems to be using higher temp (like your 6200k) for vegetative growth, then switching to lower temp (like 3000's) for flowering. My auto began to flower after about 3 weeks, so you might want to try swapping some higher temps for lower around then. Or, you can just ADD lower temps and keep that 6200k in.
    BTW if you are doing an auto you don't need to switch to 12/12. 18/6 should be good throughout the entire grow.
    There are some good thread on CFL growing in the indoor forum if you need more detailed info. Also, there is a ton of material on autos, as they seem to be quite popular these days. Good luck and welcome to RIU.
    Yep. start to finish man. You won't be disappointed. I did want to ask you what the wattage is. I know people who grow with a total of 250w. That being said, to grow a decent plant(of a sativa type), it is recommended to use no less than 400w with a min. of 50,000 lumen's. Again, for sativa's. Also remember that the more light you can throw on her the better.
    and for the light switch i mean from a 6200k bulb to a 2700k bulb , i plan on having the light 20/4 or 18/6 all the way through
    i will be using two light bulbs, at 8400 lumen total, and u are suggesting to use veg lights all the way from seed to harvest? sorry to be repetetive ... want to make sure i get it right
    Part 2
    As far as nutes go, as long as your soil has nutes in it, you really don't need to nute either. But they need something though. It helps out a great deal when the buds are trying to put on weight. I've done it both ways and personally, I prefer nutes. Now as far as the snowryder goes, I'd wait til she starts to show sex, then I'd give her 1/4 strength nutes and see how she handles it. If all goes well, try 1/2 strength and so on til your plant shows you when to stop. Also, do the nutes every other watering. Keep an eye on the leaf tips for burn.Good luck and keep me updated if you don't mind.
    Part 1 read first. Got them switched
    Hay low13, So you want to grow an auto w/one cfl. Well, it would probably work but the plant may not get to full size and the buds may be smaller than normal. Two cfl's would be better though. Now I see where you mentioned "switch them.... live cycle. Now you do know there is no need to switch light cycles right? Auto's do best on veg. lighting for there entire life cycle. I'm not saying you can't switch to bloom lighting but it's not necessary.
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