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Sup CO brothas 'n Sistas. Russet mites are a major plague that is spreading and will only get worse. Here is what I have learned: #1) 30 day life cycle (+/- five for colder/hotter temps respecptively) This means You generally will not detect a major outbreak until 2 cycles have transpired as...

#1 Terpenes, nuff said. (ok I'll throw you a bone here, one of them, myrcene, directly affects the uptake of THC) #2 You are creating an environment where bacteria/fungi would thrive (food service this is known as the danger zone, wet/humid between 40-140F. If you see any signs of fungal or...

Yea so azos don't just fix N they synthesize what turn out to be PGRs (plant growth regulators-aka plant hormones) and may actually secrete them in proximity to root growths which are exchanging nutrients with them. Or at least thats how my pitiful understanding of the rhizosphere paints...

Nice, even if the buggers don't take, their bodies alone provide the plant hormones so its a win/win as long as you dose the medium at a high enough rate. If you could correlate a strain/pheno that does better than others with the azos then maybe yea look for nodules or have someone do a root...

no probs glad to input. also wolv, the azos you use (products like great white) are "Azospirillum brasilense". Not as ever-present as azotobacter---azospirillum seems much more rare. Check out the wiki on azotobacter: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azotobacter (edit--also of note azotobacter do...

Just an FYIzzle, talked to a microbio professor once about a process called "bacterial de-nitrification" This happens when you overwater, caused by resident azotobacter (who normally "fix" nitrogen from the atmosphere by metabolizing it, making it available to the plant via their biomass) who...

Seems consistent with my histo- theory, no contained enclosed area means the fungus spores are borne away by the wind, not blown directly to your flowers by, say, floor fans anyone? MPP over and out

Just as I hadn't seen anyone mention it yet. Bat guano is known to carry a fungus which causes Histoplasmosis ("Caver's disease") as it is fungal if it is growing in your buds you should be able to see mycelia under a scope, though you will need to get in the 200x-400x range to know for sure...

Salutations all, bout to switch bulbs out for the first time (not because of a noted decrease in yield or anything, too much cultivar rotation to be able to tell) thought it would be a good time to check on the ol' thread. How is everyone's setup working out? Thinking of doing a SOG with like...

perhaps they know something we don't?

if they ship online see if you can get the RIU thread peeps a discount coupon? sounds like you'll be giving them the idea for a new product line......

Yea my bad, near-IR is out of the human vis range. Some really great stuff on phytochrome fleshed out in the sci lit, have fun with your grows all. MPP over and out

Ya know, I had been operating on the assumption that the seasonal color change concept had been debunked... (with the exception of color change resulting from other leaves from other plants beginning leaf senescence and w/o the chlorophyl the other leaf pigments show through....heavy red/orange...

heh just added a reptiglo UVb 10.0 (26w CFL) to my afore-outlined setup, sitting between the 2xCFLs on the bottom of the diagram, and down from the UFO, so basically the footprint with the UFO gets more UVb dose (no UV in the UFO) but at canopy height, slightly above the other CFLs as I am...

I was gifted a pair of the lights your link goes to by a buddy who SWEARS by the larger advanced units and is a caregiver for 6 people. I was referring to that light for seedlings but the only heat from it is in the heat sink (the big metal folds) and it should be fine at 4"+ would think, less...

I have a pair of the 15w advanced LEDs, their main flaw (IMHO unless you are just looking for supplemental) is the 120 degree angle. If you want to conserve intensity in LEDs you need less than 90 degrees, 60 would be ideal for my application. I use the 15w'ers on seedlings and in the veg tent...

heh i was merely pointing out the cmh spd, sux on the bunk thread

I've had no issues with 56F at night, but agreed growth is slowed. I submit that there may be some cold-season phenotypic expression at these temperatures. Many have heard of the anthocyanin showing through more in colder temps (or 20F+ diff between night and day)---manifesting in purple/blue...

That would explain the blue part in the mostly RED spike output....Red LEDs are phosphored/colored lensed/colored plastic over Blue LEDs but the blue still gets through to a significant degree.

regarding inda-gro: I have sent a number of emails with the owner and am currently saving for one of the proPARs, there are a number of indagro vs HPS/MH grows on youtube, check em out mpp edit: what the propar lacks in blue (for my designs) i will do as sidelighting w/ t5s (coral wave, blue...