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this is what a 6" high plant should look like. yes, i am sure about burying the stem - yours is too weak to support a healthy plant.

your plant is stretched out and dancing around trying to get better light. it curves because you've had the light at different angles as you've grown it. to fix: 1. add more dirt, bury the stem all the way to the set of round leaves. 2. keep your light closer to the plant. if it's a...

leaves curl from the ends when overwatered, and droop from the stem when underwaterd. those leaves look curled.

yes, hps is ok for vegging, not optimal, but definitely ok.

normally, the plant will not flower unless it is experiencing at least 12 continuous hours of darkness a day. are you in the southern hemisphere and days are getting shorter? alternatively, some plants auto flower but that is not common and should have been made obvious when you bought them.

you've got maybe 20 to 24 inches of plant room so i would definitely go with a strain designed to be short. you can keep any plant short by eliminating/limiting veg but you'll probably get the best yield from plants engineered to be short. so, lowryders or their cousins.

which dimension is the height? 64 - then any indica dominant strain that catches your eye would be fine. if 33" high, you're looking for some kind of lowryder type strain. not sure what else you're asking.

the reaaaallly scary part for me is that the 210,000 gallon per day estimate is from bp and they admit it's at the low end of the range. some scientists have estimated the flow as 10 times as much.

personally, i wouldn't cut off both fan leaves at a single node unless i had no use for the growth tips there - like if you were going to pull them for clones. even then?? i completely agree with UB that cutting a leaf retards growth in that area. i don't prune to "uncover" growth tips, i...

yes, there are slight differences in cfl's and the 23 - 26 watt range is a little better than other cfl's but the differences just aren't enough to choose one bulb over another. over in the hps world, by contrast, the 600 watt light has 158 lumens per watt and no other light of any type comes...

get a switchable ballast or conversion bulb so you can use the same fixtures for veg and flower. let's say you use up 10 square feet with equipment and access aisle . so for 38 square feet you'd want to shoot for about 285,000 lumens to get to 7,500 lumens per square foot. that is exactly...

just curious as to why not have separate veg and flower rooms? the efficiency and flexibility usually make it the preferred choice to grow.

i'm on too, just don't tell anybody because i'm afraid "they" will hit me :rolleyes:

i'll be quite content to let the people here do their own comparisons and make their own judgements. no more point for me to this thread until a couple of months have passed. it'll be kinda fun to see how this all turns out. the drama! the subtle linguistic digs! the testosterone! just...

the meter would have to range up to 10,000 foot candles (lumens per square foot), not sure a typical photographic light meter goes high enough

you need to find out its allowed amperage and then add up your electricals to make sure they won't overload its current capacity.

let's play this out. i make up a technique that doesn't work and post it here. a couple of people try it and it obviously fails. now why exactly am i motivated to do such a thing? two months from now people would be kicking the metaphorical shit out of me. and i will have gained....what...

you're welcome, unpronounceable hawaiian person

you say so and i show different. keep ignoring the evidence, shows your open mind. but you don't get leaf output, you get extra growth from the 2 growth tips at that node. l o o k at the p i c t u r e s. you have to have some explanation for what i show or you have absolutely no credibility...

are you sure you are seeing pollen sacks and not seed pods? - it's pretty late to just start herming and just the right time to start to see seeds. different issues, different solutions.