Jacks uses Urea and Ammonia forms of nitrogen, both can combine to create ammoniacal nitrogen. The ammonia form has what is called "potential acidity" which can lower your medium pH over time. Most people don't pay attention to the different types of nitrogen fertilizers have.
Do not know what that is. Yes, it says 5-12-26 but I not see anything saying Jacks 5-12-26. There are others with the same npk ratio. Not saying it is or isn't but no, the analysis on Jack's own website does not show any sulfur content.
Anyways, I am not looking into Jack's anything at the...
He had some decent pointers and advice for beginners but to think he's breaking new ground is a little ridiculous. He did kind of push the whole keep it simple, you don't need a bunch of snake oil shit... Like I said good advice for noobs. Nothing ground breaking
I used to kinda follow him on YT. Then he started charging money to watch his videos. Lol. That's what did it for me. I never liked dwc that much either.
Molasses is only beneficial towards the end of the plants life, when it gets stingy releasing sugars from its root system. The idea is that molasses will help continue to feed the microorganisms after the plant "cuts them off" of their sugar supply. So, in other words, If you're not using...
Interesting. According to their guaranteed analysis it contains no sulfur.
And the citrus feed has a shit load of urea nitrogen. I don't know much about ammoniacal and urea forms of nitrogen. I grow with hydroponics so I stick with nitrate nitrogen.
Looks like a calcium deficiency to me. Soil pH too low or humidity too high. Calcium is taken up during transpiration. If too humid or too cool they don't take up enough water, which is how calcium gets into the plant.
Here is my newest table, not quite complete. I basically made a small section of roofing using pvc panels. I still have to add the legs and the rain gutter lol. It will drain to waste using a simple pvc manifold.
Right on man! I'm still working out the kinks in my design. I just got some of those Black Holes Drippers, the little square plastic ones. I grow in smaller 2 gallon pots so I'm thinking they will work pretty good. If not, definitely trying some of those stakes you have.
It has something to do with tap water. I don't know whats in it that the ro filter takes out but I hardly ever, ever, use pH down. Maybe on a real weak nute solution. Probably 99% of the time use pH up. Unless you have real good tap water, which I have never personally seen, I know mine is...
Raindrip 1 gal/hour. The bigger pot has 3 as 2 wasn't enough. It runs for 1/2 hour. So 1 gal in the rose pots and a 1 1/2 in the bigger pot. Once a day, for now anyways
I am running a plant now under its own 400 watt lamp. So far it looks fine but its only starting week 2. I have some of those little 150 watt hps lamps I may add one or two of those to the mix but I also just want to see what metal halide will do by itself. Idk yet. I will post a pic tomorrow.
Here's some shots of the testing setup. A few random plants I put on a spare flood table in one of my old tents.
Basic pvc manifold that's about as simple as it gets. Other than the union its just pipe with 3/8" holes drilled in it. Used top hat grommets and your basic 1/4" iirrigation tubing ...
Just an update. Put together a makeshift manifold and dripper system. Already had problems with one of the drippers partially clogging. So now leaning towards drip rings. Will post a picture of the experimental setup next time I'm at the house.
Anybody use any good drip rings or make their own?
You could but like @Carolina Dream'n said you have no idea whats been used by the plants and at what ratio. That's why we do drain to "waste". Professional greenhouses test their solution so they can add back to it. Its best to use the run-off on some outside plants or something.
Yeah, she might be hungry. Doesn't look like any toxicity so one would assume deficiency. Try 3/4 strength or feed more frequently with the half strength.